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Mirabell61

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Everything posted by Mirabell61

  1. Danny I`m absolutely with Adam... As you probably recognized, I`m taking a Little pause on my own P.Sue build, but seeing your fabulous work in process really encourages me....to get further going on it again Nils
  2. Hi S. Coleman, Tom and Daniel, thank you for your appreciative words, I`m preparing to post Log parts 9 + 10 tomorrow morning, stay tuned Nils
  3. Hello Max, a real Little Beauty is being created under your Hands, lovely build! Nils
  4. Michiel your build is a delight to follow, I had an eye on the "Prins Willem" plan before I decided to go for the Pegasus. Neat and tidy build, as well as splendid Quality, and handcraftship, shall follow this one further on Nils
  5. Build log part 8 template topview for boatdeck checking Position of midship stairs down to Forward working deck deckhouse stairs to boatstations aftstair from boatdeck to working poopdeck view backwards at this building stage wooden planking of boatsdeck, here also the bearing Support-sleeves for taking up the Davits already mounted main wheelhouse, Navigation room and officers duty station freshwater storage tank with vent on top Build log part 9 to follow....
  6. Build log part 7 ship is now tugged out alongside the Fitting out quay of the yard etched brass stairs check, fit to scale approved OK brass rim fitted to lower deckhousing, all around the boatsdeck self explaining in opposite to the workdecks the forecastle deck is Wood planked the soldering Task gets a Little tricky here (too much heat in one place loostens the already tight neighbour ones again) checking with plan, space requirements for boats, Davits and boat Access platforms cardboard template for complete boat deck base stanchions for upper Bridge fixed and soldered note the workdecks are painted tan, "earthbrown" self explaining... Build log part 8 to follow....
  7. Build log part 6 hold rim with removable hatchcovers raw Forward mast crows nest, the Access ladder from deck not fixed yet take up Points for swivel loadbeams after some paint touchups ... plymsol marking at waterline marking of Name and Registration port These 3 pics..., quite pleased with the results so far Build log part 7 to follow
  8. Hi Guy, the toothwheel Comes from an old mantelclock-clockwork, obtained from a fleamarket, and so providing many individual brass toothwheels with different toothsizes. thin wheels for single row riveting broader ones for Multi row riveting, etc... From twinrow on upwards the toothbreadth would Need to be reduced by binging circular groves in like the Picture Shows. Provided you own a Hobby lathe and appropriate cutting chissels, no Problem..., if not, span the wheel on a Center fixed screw span into your Drilling machine and tangentially (sturdy Hand!!) bring cutting side tooth-direction of your metalblade small handsaw into Operation, with running Drilling machine. Some Trials should be done with scrap- wheels before, to get the Feeling. The saw toothdirection must be in the "pushing mode" as if it were a chissel. Remove grit care fully and brush over with brass-brush, to slight break the sharp edges carefully. Hope this is of help... Cheers Nils
  9. Thank Thank you Bindy for you nice words It all was due to the nowdays possibilities via web for doing all this Research, for instance in gathering all available to myself historic US newspaper clippings, state archives, etc... Nils
  10. Hi Creackers, this I have also asked myself many times, but it is also fact that from radiocalls received, the stearing rudderchain had broken in a full gale, making the vessel unmanouverable and probably immediately going square to the huge waves the hull rolling heavily, and fact is that the hatchcovers had been destroyed, this causing the uncontrolled take of water, until the ships superstructures could not withstand the stresses anymore. She may have sunk or suddely have broken through. We shall never really know what hapened in the last minutes Nils
  11. Richard thanks for your word. Regarding to the plan I received it upon Special request from the birth shipyard (which does not actually sell plans of their builds), but I told about my personal relation to the ship because of a Research of the fate of itt foundering and the fate of my grandfather. Nils
  12. Build log part 5 for making the stand Posts I use brass candle holders (found on flee-markets) the anchorchain port reinforcements are fitted begin... rivited structure to deckhouses and hatch rims further Fitting out midship deckhouses, on deck inbetween the coal bunker hatchcovers forecastle compartments so far well under way... workdecks ready for priming, painting the figures are scale 1:100 the portside depth indications are in Roman figures Build log part 6 to follow....
  13. Build log part 4 characteristic for These old steamships are the large vents, necessary more than ever when going through hot,tropical zones of calm sea... Here is to give my Version of the vent Hood making..., and the main masts, and crows nest sizes and types of vents an Arrangement of inlet and outlet vents prefit check with the decks application of primer after soldering and cleaning the brass surfaces was quite a bunch of individual parts inner Hood surfaces have their own color as well as the outside surfaces Forward and aft mast do not throw away your old dome-nuts, they serve for exellent venthoods especially those where the dome Shell is made and brased on of thin pressed sheet Build log part 5 to follow.....
  14. Hello Max, what a cute member Icon you have, gives me a smile on monday morning. Thanks for your words, and enjoy the further parts of the Heinrich Kayser build log Nils
  15. Building log part 3 brought on White primer coating and Sub waterline red the last Picture where the hull is still fixed to the baseplate. The upper hull portions shall be plated and painted when the decks have been permanently mounted hull seperated from baseplate, all went well, no Twist, no destortions extreme lightweight hull, prop- and ruddershaft already mounted, superstructure for deck Support can be seen riged structure in forecastle area decks made from 1,5 mm thick 4-layer Aeroplywood the Forward maindeck, 3 hatches, and the quite Long poopdeck, 2 hatches,(working decks) are going to be metal plated. These decks were of steel plating due to rough cargo handlingand overcoming heavy seas. The cardboard template behind hatch #4 Shows the riviting pattern for deck plating hatch # 1 behind the forecastle bulkhead bow section before finalizing the decks and the final plating raw workdecks mounted, midship deckhouses started, hull painting done and forecastle bulleyes mounted. It`s now slowly looking like a ship should be... Build log part 4 to follow.....
  16. Congrats Johann, you have delivered first class work in admirable Performance and Quality, also the photos are great, in all a delight to see Nils
  17. Bugra, upon your request, here a short intercourse and self explaining use of the plate marking tool. By the way, I use this method on all model hulls that are of rivited structure, only the tooth modul sizes differ acc. to the appr. scale Chosen. The holders for the toothwheels are made from old paintbrushes that would go to the bin otherwise. Cheers Nils different wheel (toothsizes, and toothnumbers, also requires a semi soft rubber plate underneath and of course the precut plate (turn around the plate, so the protection foil is up.... use a metal ruler, or like here a masons tool, leave plate edge free the roller tool, use Dremel with circle sawblade to cut in the two circular grooves for obtaining 3 toothrows instead of one press tight down the roller tool and move swiftly Forward in one move. Same time press down the ruler looking at the marked edge from the rear side looking at the result of the rivit resembling, (here 3-row riviting) remove the protection foil, Keep the gluefilm side free from dust and debris Happy exercising and good success Nils
  18. Build log part 2 planking completed, rudder and sternpost reinforcement mounted, minimized Polyesterfiller where necassary, and poopquarter knee-whale attached impressions of rudder making components the five blade prop is only an interim solution, a four blade historic prop with blades bolted-on the central hub is to follow later here first time experience Begins with metal plating for hull The hull wooden surface is sanded smooth and fixed with quick dying transperant liquid filler, which drys off quickly leaving a real smooth and shiny surface on which the self-adhesive Aluminium foil sticks like hell. No Problem with roll-embossing the foil plates from the rear plate side, because the rivit immitations are roolled-in before the protection foil on the plate rearside is removed, giving free the glue film. Workstation for making the plates leave a gap between first and second plating line, the third plating line is set by overlapping the edges of first and second line Note : vertical rivit Joints have 4 rows of rivits, horizontal Joints have 2 rivit rows plating nearly done, the whole hull is still mounted to the shipyard baseplate Mounted into the keel are two reinforced M5 female threads for the later to be mounted stand-bolts the upper hull portions have not been plated yet soldered, full functional mounted rudder before plating, shaft going through to poop deck here the upside down 135 cm Long hull is nearly ready for seperating from the baseplate, it is very stiff, riged and of lightweight
  19. Thanks for looking in Richard, the sails were quite common to the steamships builds around the turn of the century, ( remember the plan Shows the 1898 Version),you can see this on many oilpaintings of that time. They had been removed on most Steamers as the engines became more reliable. Nils
  20. Druxy thank you for your words, yes it is not usual to have a personal relation a subject like this one, the pitty is that before I started my own Research most of the late and still living Family members did hardly know anything about the ship, its Crew, and nothing at all about possible passengers. Nils
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