Mirabell61

Thank you very much Bob,
 
I`m trying to Keep the upper hull rails clean and in natural wood appeal whilst applying the black paint without messing, and with help of the Tamiya tape masking it really works very well...
 
Nils
 

Wonderful Ed !!
 
Nils

beautiful Work Michael,
 
that Skylight Looks great.
 
Nils

Moin Hartmut,
 
Thank you very much for your Kind words, I`m very glad the KWdG model finds your interest in this log...
 
Nils

Just saw this Joshua Slokum animation:  <iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/138939095"width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe>
<p><a href="
">SLOCUM at sea with himself</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/fierlingers">Paul and Sandra Fierlinger</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

beautiful Work Michael,
 
that Skylight Looks great.
 
Nils

Wonderful Ed !!
 
Nils

Denis,
 
nice Progress there, I`m admiring that you have the Patience to thorrowly do all the small Detail work, the painting of pipes and deck Fittings etc. and get all These parts to look so fine before you start with further Assembling. The result proves you are doing it absolutely right - a beautiful ship-
 
Nils

Wonderful Ed !!
 
Nils

Good morning,
I didn't give my kids any homework assignments so that freed me up for a couple of hours last night to work on the Bounty. (No papers to grade)  I used the time to highlight the hull's walnut planking by applying a couple of coats of satin finish.  I hope you like the way it looks. 
Have a nice day,
Charlene

Hey Popeye:
Thanks for the visit.  It's nice to know that there are other builders who get help from their spouse.  I do know that Lawrence gets assistance from his admiral (Bernadette) when it comes to making sails.  I was standing next to Jerry one day when I heard him talking to Lawrence on Skype about his admiral sewing the sails.  So we're not the only builder/admiral team on this site.
 
And Hi everyone else..
 
Yep, I'm finding it very difficult to find the time to make steady progress on this build.  Too much work at school these days...So, with great reluctance,I asked jerry to step in and do a little more than I originally wanmted him to do.  I caught him with his nose in a model ship catalogue as he had been talking about starting another kit.  Since I have ways to convince him to do things it was real easy to get him to agree to spend more time on Bounty.  LOL....In the following sequence of photos, I manged to get two wales done and Jerry did the rest.  I wonder if ayone can tell which wales I applied?
 
So after a bit of sanding and hull varnishing we'll be ready to begin fitting out the deck.  Even though the directions call for hinging the rudder to the hull next, Jerry says that it's been his experience that we should wait to do this later as the rudder and its chain only gets in the way.  So I agreed to move on to do something else.  Here are some pics of what we have done and where we presently stand:
 
Charlene

Hi Everybody:
A lot has transpired since my last post.  What I really should say is that a lot of time has transpired since my last post because there have been many days that I could not even think about building my Bounty.  I still love the idea of working on this model but unfortunately my job (I am an 8th grade history teacher) has taken up more time that I would like.  The beginning of every school year is always very difficult as the administration continuously makes changes to which we have to adapt; this takes a good deal of time.  It has never been easy but for some reason this year seems tougher than most.  I can find very little time to spend on Bounty and that is a shame as my ambition is still great.  
 
Jerry has been very patient with me (I guess he still loves me) but I could see that he has seemed bored many days as he gives me instructions as to what to do and very little has been achieved. We both sat down and discussed the situation and decided to take a new track.  Bounty will no longer be my build exclusively but will become a family project with instructions still to come from Jerry but he will also partially work on the project.  Up until now he has been reluctant to do much as this was to be MY build.  I know by asking Jerry to do some of the work the boredom will disappear.
 
I have learned how to do some planking and how to apply the copper plates.  I did some but must admit, if Jerry hadn't done the lion's share we wouldn't be where we are today.  The hull as well as the rudder is completely planked and copper plated and we are ready to proceed with wales, stringers and strips.  Since Jerry is very bad with colors, it'll be my pleasure to do the painting.  I really hope I spend some quality time with Bounty as I truly believe it'll be a very nice model when completed.
 
Here are some pictures to show OUR progress and I hope I haven't disappointed anyone by asking my hubby to contribute more of his skills.
 
Charlene

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 123 – Companions
 
Once the three ladderways into the lower decks were installed, the companion structures over these three hatchways could be constructed.  Before describing construction the completed two aft of the main mast are shown in the first picture.
 

 
All three structures are similar, with entry doors and a sliding panel to close them off when not in use.  They are fairly intricate structures.  In the one to the left in the picture the doors and sliding cap have been left open.  Unfinished wood on these has been finished with beeswax/turpentine.
 
The first step in making these is shown in the next picture.  The side and forward walls are paneled.  The first step in making the paneling was to trim long pieces with thin horizontal strips. 
 

 
The total thickness of these laminates is about 2 ½” (.035” act.).  These pieces were then cut to fit the coamings and trimmed out as shown below.
 

 
In the next picture one of these is being fitted into the rabbet on one of the head ledges.
 

 
When the three sides were  trimmed to size, they were painted white, fitted with natural wood corner posts and installed on the coamings as shown below.
 

 
Additional internal members and the outer roof planks were then added as shown in the next picture.
 

 
Next, the remaining roof planks, excluding the slide rails, were installed and painted blue.
 

 
The rails, door jambs, door and a closing cross piece were then added as shown below.
 

 
One of the sliding caps that were made to fit over the rails is shown in the picture.
 
The last picture shows the companion over the forward hatch.  The double-door entry to each of these was fitted with very simple brass wire hardware.
 

 
Next will be the two skylights on the poop deck.
 
 
Ed
 

beautiful Work Michael,
 
that Skylight Looks great.
 
Nils

John, Pete, thanks for following along and all who have visited and liked what I am doing.
 
In order to be able to set in the Lexan after every thing is varnished I needed to be able to fix the cleats with the bars afterwards, fortunately I had some very small brass flat head wood screws, I purchased them from Lee Valley
page 203 they are #0 x 1/4
Step 1 was to make a small self centering awl for transferring the hole position to the cleat. I used a bit of 3/16 steel hex stock I had on the rack.
 

 
after they were marked I used the same awl to make the indent larger for the #60 drill
 

 
the next pic shows all the tools for setting the holes.
 

 
I did have to countersink the frames so that the screws had enough purchase on the cleats I did this with #33 drill just twirled it between my fingers.
 

 
seems to hold well enough.
 

 

 
one down three more to go 

Druxey, Bob, Ian, Steve, thanks for your positive comments, and all who pressed the like button.
 
I finished rough sanding the four lights and am starting to work on the cleats with the bars that protects the Lexan.
 

 
after cutting the cleats they were drilled with an .046 drill to accept some 3/64th brass rod 3/8 scale size.
 

 
the cleats were then given an initial shaping, by stacking them on foundation with 2 sided tape to sand them
 

 
after assembling the first one the bars looked a bit small so I up sized them to 1/2 inch (1/16) but did not want to re-drill the holes. after cutting the copper tube to length I inserted some 1/32 brass rod in each end and gave the tube a gentle squeeze with some round nosed pliers to hold the rods in place.
 

 

 
I am thinking that the copper looks better anyway.
 
Michael

Gerald,
 
You can add the word 'metal' after a dash, in the same fashion that 'plastic' or 'card' is added to a title.

By all means, assemble your build log with as many details as possible.

Thank you very much Bob,
 
I`m trying to Keep the upper hull rails clean and in natural wood appeal whilst applying the black paint without messing, and with help of the Tamiya tape masking it really works very well...
 
Nils
 

Moin Hartmut,
 
Thank you very much for your Kind words, I`m very glad the KWdG model finds your interest in this log...
 
Nils

Thank you very much Bob,
 
I`m trying to Keep the upper hull rails clean and in natural wood appeal whilst applying the black paint without messing, and with help of the Tamiya tape masking it really works very well...
 
Nils
 

Thank you Tadeusz,
 
for sharing all those lovely Pictures, it`s been a delight to go through them
 
Nils

Thank you very much Bob,
 
I`m trying to Keep the upper hull rails clean and in natural wood appeal whilst applying the black paint without messing, and with help of the Tamiya tape masking it really works very well...
 
Nils
 

Thank you very much Bob,
 
I`m trying to Keep the upper hull rails clean and in natural wood appeal whilst applying the black paint without messing, and with help of the Tamiya tape masking it really works very well...
 
Nils
 

Thank you very much Bob,
 
I`m trying to Keep the upper hull rails clean and in natural wood appeal whilst applying the black paint without messing, and with help of the Tamiya tape masking it really works very well...
 
Nils