Mirabell61

Very nicely done kortes
Regards
Paul 

I had to take my time, the profile is rather difficult to make. After molding the profile I left a small width margin and made the final refinements after gluing it, already in place.

I have constructed the bulwarks.

Status update .
 
doing the front compartment with chain catch- and drip pan, also lower cabin furniture installed, oven and a a slightly broader ladder not mounted yet...
 
Nils

 
 

detail pan
 

chain- and drip pan, access for cleaning through front bulkhead hatch
 

lockers, shelves and berths, floor in oak planking
 

 
 

Status update .
 
doing the front compartment with chain catch- and drip pan, also lower cabin furniture installed, oven and a a slightly broader ladder not mounted yet...
 
Nils

 
 

detail pan
 

chain- and drip pan, access for cleaning through front bulkhead hatch
 

lockers, shelves and berths, floor in oak planking
 

 
 

Hello dear colleagues.
I have been looking for a topic for a long time in whom I have not done publications for a long time and it has gone far. However, Chuck Passaro - MSW Admin kindly helped me find the topic. Many thanks to him! Here I publish the finishing photos of the fully-finished model of the imperial yacht Standart. The work that lasted for three years was finished.

Status update .
 
doing the front compartment with chain catch- and drip pan, also lower cabin furniture installed, oven and a a slightly broader ladder not mounted yet...
 
Nils

 
 

detail pan
 

chain- and drip pan, access for cleaning through front bulkhead hatch
 

lockers, shelves and berths, floor in oak planking
 

 
 

Post 7
Moving onto the Garboard Plank
Back in the Boatyard I now invert the hull to start with the Garboard plank.
On this kit with two plank layers it's not really necessary as the purpose of the first planking is to provide a solid and properly shaped hull form onto which the second layer is glued.
However, the second layer will need to be properly planked for good effect so it does no harm to employ some of the techniques on the soon to be hidden first layer.

1169
The position of the Garboard plank at the forward end involves a little bit of best estimation. Because I have no rabbet the plank tapers to a near point at the bow end; I have it just forward of Bulkhead two and aft of the bottom end of the keel slot.

1171
The rest of the plank I have left at full width, but inducing  some twist towards the aft end to allow it to lie flat against the false keel and stern post.
If nothing else, fitting a specific Garboard plank will allow the correct position to be confirmed, and if it's a little out - well it will be covered up.
I also bevelled the plank back edge where it meets the keel, and thinned it down a little on the back face where it runs into the stern post.
Even so, a fair bit of thinning down will be necessary , basically down to nothing, to allow for the second planking.
 
With the Garboard planks in place the adjoining plank is fitted.

1261
This quite a tricky one as there is a  tight lateral curve at the forward end where it goes around the Garboard plank and into the stem slot. There is quite an acute  angle to the plank end.
I then add a third strake also requiring lateral bending at the bow end.

1264
 To achieve the required bends the curve has to be formed at least a third along the length of a strip to get the required purchase. The Lime wood did not lend itself easily to the lateral bending process with breaks occurring at fault lines along the grain.
 I did suffer quite an attrition rate of breaking strips, a problem not experienced with hardwoods such as Box. This resulted in several of the strakes being made up of two planks butt joined.
The final strip of a very irregular shape lies beneath the curve of the hull and was spiled to fit.
Using the provided strip of all one width makes avoiding  stealers almost impossible, but as a first layer  base this is not really an issue.

1270
At the end of the first planking I am left with a pile of off-cuts.
There is sufficient strip to do the job, particularly if you follow the suggested kit method of planking.
 
So here is the completed first planking in all it's rough glory.

1272

1273

1274

1275

1276
The sanding process now begins, there are a few hollows and ridges to sort out before I move on.
Then comes the really interesting bit.
 
B.E.
28/07/2019
 

Status update .
 
doing the front compartment with chain catch- and drip pan, also lower cabin furniture installed, oven and a a slightly broader ladder not mounted yet...
 
Nils

 
 

detail pan
 

chain- and drip pan, access for cleaning through front bulkhead hatch
 

lockers, shelves and berths, floor in oak planking
 

 
 

Hello and welcome to Model Ship World  

Joined up a couple of weeks ago so thought I had better say Hi.
A life long modeller building models ranging from ships to helicopters.
Since retiring I have kept busy building a live steam traction engine.
This project should be finished in 18 months or so, in the meantime I am indulging in researching which ship kit to see me into my dotage (a few years yet I hope)
A Chris Hatton design seems t be the front runner at present.
 

onwards wirth the fitting out of the cabin furniture....,
willhave to sew some small pillow casess for the births.
With a search on the web I found a brass mini coupling for propshaft to motor, together with the mini fastening screws and an hexogonal Inbus key.
For the floors I still have some 0,8 mm beech ply cut out after the card templates, that will be planked with 1 mm oak planks and pencil caulked
 
Nils

the floor is still the card template here
 

the motor coupling with 3 mm bore is only 13 mm long

onwards wirth the fitting out of the cabin furniture....,
willhave to sew some small pillow casess for the births.
With a search on the web I found a brass mini coupling for propshaft to motor, together with the mini fastening screws and an hexogonal Inbus key.
For the floors I still have some 0,8 mm beech ply cut out after the card templates, that will be planked with 1 mm oak planks and pencil caulked
 
Nils

the floor is still the card template here
 

the motor coupling with 3 mm bore is only 13 mm long

Getting further on with the ribs...
shaping, saw-cutting, a bit fairing to fit, glueing, I get about 4 per day placed.
The lead weight I still had, it was orignaly intended as an internal weight block for a schooner some years ago.
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Next sequence is doing the framing ribs....
need to make some well fitting templates fist, that adopt to the inner lapstrake contour
 
Nils
 

flexible ruler is of great help fot this job

A flexible ruler to take off the rough shape for transfering it to card

 
card for taking off the clinker stagered strake outcuts

 
doing it in a bit of 4mm thick scrap wood provides the template for the final ribs
 

 
I must admit, its a bit tricky job.....
 
 

onwards wirth the fitting out of the cabin furniture....,
willhave to sew some small pillow casess for the births.
With a search on the web I found a brass mini coupling for propshaft to motor, together with the mini fastening screws and an hexogonal Inbus key.
For the floors I still have some 0,8 mm beech ply cut out after the card templates, that will be planked with 1 mm oak planks and pencil caulked
 
Nils

the floor is still the card template here
 

the motor coupling with 3 mm bore is only 13 mm long

Thank you Ian,
 
these Zeesboats  are quite sturdy vessels and many of them are still based on the original heritage fishing craft. The Zeesboats were not so much noticed by the public, during the period of the former  east German DDR, but after the reunion 1989 onwards, with western Germany more and became noted as  potential and respectable  hobby watercraft, and some enthusiasts had an resonable opertunity in buying one of these old and used boats at bargain prices.
Of course much handcraft work sweat and love was put into those heritage hulls, their rigging, sails and fitting out, and there are also still existing traditional family owned wooden boat  boatyard businesses to stand aside with knowledgible help and help in overhauling, to turn them into beauties as they are today
 
Nils

onwards wirth the fitting out of the cabin furniture....,
willhave to sew some small pillow casess for the births.
With a search on the web I found a brass mini coupling for propshaft to motor, together with the mini fastening screws and an hexogonal Inbus key.
For the floors I still have some 0,8 mm beech ply cut out after the card templates, that will be planked with 1 mm oak planks and pencil caulked
 
Nils

the floor is still the card template here
 

the motor coupling with 3 mm bore is only 13 mm long

onwards wirth the fitting out of the cabin furniture....,
willhave to sew some small pillow casess for the births.
With a search on the web I found a brass mini coupling for propshaft to motor, together with the mini fastening screws and an hexogonal Inbus key.
For the floors I still have some 0,8 mm beech ply cut out after the card templates, that will be planked with 1 mm oak planks and pencil caulked
 
Nils

the floor is still the card template here
 

the motor coupling with 3 mm bore is only 13 mm long

onwards wirth the fitting out of the cabin furniture....,
willhave to sew some small pillow casess for the births.
With a search on the web I found a brass mini coupling for propshaft to motor, together with the mini fastening screws and an hexogonal Inbus key.
For the floors I still have some 0,8 mm beech ply cut out after the card templates, that will be planked with 1 mm oak planks and pencil caulked
 
Nils

the floor is still the card template here
 

the motor coupling with 3 mm bore is only 13 mm long

onwards wirth the fitting out of the cabin furniture....,
willhave to sew some small pillow casess for the births.
With a search on the web I found a brass mini coupling for propshaft to motor, together with the mini fastening screws and an hexogonal Inbus key.
For the floors I still have some 0,8 mm beech ply cut out after the card templates, that will be planked with 1 mm oak planks and pencil caulked
 
Nils

the floor is still the card template here
 

the motor coupling with 3 mm bore is only 13 mm long

onwards wirth the fitting out of the cabin furniture....,
willhave to sew some small pillow casess for the births.
With a search on the web I found a brass mini coupling for propshaft to motor, together with the mini fastening screws and an hexogonal Inbus key.
For the floors I still have some 0,8 mm beech ply cut out after the card templates, that will be planked with 1 mm oak planks and pencil caulked
 
Nils

the floor is still the card template here
 

the motor coupling with 3 mm bore is only 13 mm long

Today I started with the card templates for cockpit and cabin floor. The floors will be planked and caulked
In order to get acceptable stand hight in the cabin, the floorlevel there was set a bit lower that the one in the cockpit.
also rough checkout for the two berths and the ladder. Will make the final ladder a bit wider.
Without boots and cap father fisherman will find sufficient length in his berth.
 
Nils
 

card templates show the position of the floor levels
 

here the little mini cabin with two berths, access ladder from the companion-way hatch. I intend to install a small iron oven portside of the ladder, and a locker will be set up to the front bulkhead between the  berths footends. Also there must be a fresh air vent intake and an exhaust over roof for the oven

Thank you Ian,
 
these Zeesboats  are quite sturdy vessels and many of them are still based on the original heritage fishing craft. The Zeesboats were not so much noticed by the public, during the period of the former  east German DDR, but after the reunion 1989 onwards, with western Germany more and became noted as  potential and respectable  hobby watercraft, and some enthusiasts had an resonable opertunity in buying one of these old and used boats at bargain prices.
Of course much handcraft work sweat and love was put into those heritage hulls, their rigging, sails and fitting out, and there are also still existing traditional family owned wooden boat  boatyard businesses to stand aside with knowledgible help and help in overhauling, to turn them into beauties as they are today
 
Nils

Many thanks for your nice comment Denis,
in the moment I`m trying to find the right floor- levels for work-cockpit, small rudderstand well, cabin ( including more or less the hight in the standing area) where the front deckhouse walls will bring hopefuly adequate standing hight inside the cabin....
 
Nils

the crew member at the helm is either standing in the rather small well for steering and motor operation, or sitting on the deck edge
 

fisher junior is again standing on a chunk of wood with his left leg

may still need to lower the cabin floor a bit
 

the cabin stand hight increases by the deckhouse side walls, anyway we must keep in mind that its a workboat and not a yacht