modeller_masa

Although I still have some unresolved feelings, such as deck fittings, I decided to move on to another project. Thank you for watching my build log!

Thank you for the recommendation, Roger. The lot of research sounds not easy, but it is worth keeping on track. I'll focus on the famous ships until I get used to the various armaments from each country. The French ships are the next after I decipher the English ships. Thanks again for all the comments. Your advice was very helpful in clarifying my destination.

That is breathtaking art! I can't imagine how many techniques and knowledge you used to build the project from the plan.

I can't copy and post my rigging guide book, so I searched for similar walkthrough video. In addition, you may find some useful information in the old build log. Not all the riggings are correct.

As long as I do research, I'm finding out what I'm missing. The climb will be long but exciting. I hope I meet my goal without a lot of difficulties. Thank you for introducing the promising book, GrandpaPhil. I buy it.

https://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/mantua-cannon-kit-french-carronade-ma800.html While I was making the cross section kit, I felt I needed more detailed information about some parts, especially the cannon. I researched some cannon kits, and found Manual 800 and 806 cannon kits. There are some hesitations because the kit designs were built for forts, not moving ships. I'm not sure the 800 and 806 cannons were installed on ships in the same shape. Is there any recommendation for cannon kits except Mantua kits? Scratch build plan are the most wanted. I would like to build cannons and cannon rigging academically. also, I want to detail the wooden deck and gunwale. Cannon-specialized reference books are also welcome! ------------- Loading procedure https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cayTFunCkBA Reference books - Treatise of Artillery: Containing ... to which is Prefixed, an Introduction with a Theory of Powder Applied to Fire-arms / John Millan, 1768

Oops, I didn't update this log. I'm sorry I left it for a long time. Both the AL's manual and metal caps are wrong. It is good to fix them. Alignment 🤔 😆 I used clove hitch knot. The sail is half size because I'm making a furled version. ★ Don't furl the sail before rigging work! It is really exciting work. 😆

Thank you Roger, I'll practice and learn the stick method again. I used CA glue because it dries fast and protects cords from mashing. I can use acrylic medium or PVA glue which are slow. It is a reason I'm coming back to stick. It is good to hear that someone has already considered the same issue; how to read thread thickness on plans. The underscale rigging may imply how he ovecame the issue.

@Cathead It is not only dry, but also clamped. The 0.25mm is the thickness of cords rather than the entire thread. The difference between thread and cord is critical because our eyes recognize the thickness of thread as the volume of ropes in a model. In my opinion, there is a mismatch between the standards of the traditional weaving industry and an actual usage of threads in the model hobby. It is easier to buy "0.25mm threads" than "0.50mm visible thickness threads." BUT, If I see rigging plans from Ancre, I'm afraid of which thickness threads I should use. @Roger Pellett The traditional method is rational, but the CA glue with the digital vernier calipers is a lot faster and more accurate than it, in my opinion. I had minor difficulties with the inch-long rod because cords were compressed when I tied threads too tight. In my conclusion, this is the best method for choosing appropriate threads based on real ships. (1) Calculating "visible thickness" from the original ropes - 4 inch thick rope → 1/12 inch threads (1/48 scale) (2) Finding the same "visible thickness" threads after applying CA glue, PVA glue, Acrylic medium, or shellac.

I have a question about the thickness of threads in a kit. I used CA glue to harden the thread. I would say that this method shows the exact thickness of threads when I see them. Amann Serafil 120 Without CA glue - 0.07mm Amann Serafil 120 With CA glue - 0.14mm (+100%) Amann Serafil 30 Before - 0.20mm, After - 0.35mm (+75%) Amann Serafil 10 Before - 0.55mm, After - 0.70mm (+27%) As you can see, this method is easier and faster than other measuring methods. During further experiments, I had a question about the appropriate thickness of threads in a kit. According to AL's kit instructions, the supplied threads have a thickness of 0.25mm. When I measured it with digital vernier calipers, it was 0.25mm. After I applied CA glue, it increased to 0.50mm. How do you think about the difference? Unfortunately, this ship (San Francisco) wasn't real, so I have no reference for actual rope. Should kit companies fix their measuring method?

Thanks to many members' help, I updated my gratings. I'll do better next time...

Thanks, wefalck. It is very interesting structure. Old sailors invented many things beyond my imagination. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dom_Fernando_II_e_Glória The white ship may be this.

I have a question about the AL San Francisco cross section kit. While I was checking reality with 1/50 paper figures, I found the position of side ladder a bit weird. The wall is too high, and there is no inside ladder. On the contrary, the Swedish Dutch ship Papegojan had an inside ladder. It is suspicious that another gimmick filled the model ship without reality. Did historical ships have this structure? If not, I'll simply remove the side ladder.

I wanted to forget a memory that I lost some parts of the Papegojan 1627. 😱 The AL San Francisco Cross Section may heal my wounded heart. Because of the kit's unreality, its assembly ability is extremely good. I would say that children are able to build this kit without much difficulty. I added some temporary planks (yellow arrows) to harden the frame's shape. The 1st planking is done. At this point, I decided to change the second plank from stock sapelle to my Asian pearwood. After some trial and error, I made straight strips using a laser cutter. As I said, the kit has many fatal errors. It just combined every detail that people might like. - The ladders (Red) are too slow, and the width is narrower than shoulder width. - The grating frames are on the beams (Blue). - The cross sectional diagram is not realistic (Green). I referred to the cross sectional diagram from the contemporary wreckage ship. ( Source : https://albaola.org/proceso-de-construccion/ , https://www.patrimoniocultural.gov.pt/media/uploads/trabalhosdearqueologia/18/22.pdf ) But, I stopped in the middle of modification. I didn't want to pay more than a month for this kit, so I left the cross sectional diagram incomplete. Also, I I cut the beam to expand the space for grating frames. The thicker beam was part of the modification for realistic structure. By the way, I decided to skip the ladder. I thought it made more sense. This is an internal painting. I applied a cherry-colored gel stain. The outside and cross section are Asian pearwood. I love the pink wood. The next step will be gunports.

https://kjhowells.co.uk/grating/ I remember modern gratings, like in the above link, but old ships didn't use them, unfortunately... Of course, I don't want to make up model ship excessively. I'm trying to make the holes exactly squares, as you said.

I found it too late. I hope to find any ship on which I can use this technique. 😂

Whether the gratings are historically true or not, I didn't like the red-arrowed edges. https://www.onwardmarine.com/product/solid-teak-square-grating/ For a better outfit, I designed gratings surrounding the border, like this commercial gratings. This design is proven and ready for laser-cut. I'm curious that 18th century ships had similar gratings.

I had the same experience with 0.20mm thin shrouds. I consider the parts inappropriate without thousands of supporters or more strong metal-material 3D printers. The sailing ship won't be conquered by 3D printers easily.

Here is link to my device. As I said, cutting width is about 0.40mm and depth is 6mm in the case of cherry wood. +++ I researched a little bit, and found that a fiber laser is much bigger and more expensive. I guess the Chinese manufacture lied about the specs. It is curious that a real fiber laser cutter has less than 0.20mm kerfs. The treenail marks are amazing. I didn't learn to draw spots yet. Probably very small circles would work in the same way.

I bought the NRG thin strip saw jig for cutting planks, but I found that my table saw isn't compatible with it, unfortunately. This is my alternative method to cutting accurate thickness, which is important for deck planking. First, I cut my asian peer woods. Today's weather is clear with a little smog. I'm so scared of my table saw, so I don't measure the thickness accurately now. The plank size is 600 x 35 mm, or 2 feet x 1 1/3 inch. Thickness is vary. The next is Byrnes thickness sander. It punches material and makes a loud noise, but works pretty well. I made all the sheets 1.00mm thick. I own a $500 fiber laser cutter. Cheaper laser cutters that use a blu-ray drive diode are much inferior to fiber laser. I designed a very simple g-code that cut 135mm x 4.20mm thick planks. Final result. The size is 134.80 mm x 4.02 mm, and the gap between planks is about 0.40mm, which is thinner than half the thickness of a table saw blade. Also, it is much safer. The burning marks at the sides may be a good expression of deck caulking. I put my large Proxxon table saw in a warehouse. 😎

I'll come back to Papegojan and complete it. The level 3 Smack will be posted weeks later!

I bought the Veritas miniature plow plane, but it wasn't as useful as the miniature block plane. It was too small to keep the track straight. I confirmed every plan in the instructions is in the wrong scale. It is good to download and print the original instruction PDF files from Model-Expo.

I upgraded the Norwegian Pram kit's stand to a cherry wood stand and acrylic pillar. I cut cherry wood sheets using a laser cutter, and glued them together. I slightly sanded the edges. It is a cheap and nice result, but the sanding was a bit frustrating. I'll try 3D CNC next time.

The next is the level 2 Norwegian Sailing Pram. Unfortunately, this kit also has some minor laser cutting issues. Don't forget to enlarge plans in the instructions! My ratio was 102.85%. Bow transom. Stern transom. I made my life better again. Bottom planks. It is a bit tricky to make rabbets and gains. I didn't want to order an expensive Veritas plow plane, so I modified my Veritas block plane. Planking is done. Skeg and bilge keels. Finally, I removed the building board. I'll print the enlarged plans tomorrow. 😴

IMPORTANT NOTICE DOWNLOAD ALL THE PDF MANUALS FROM THE MODEL EXPO WEBSITE AND PRINT PLANS YOU NEED. ALL THE 1:1 PLANS IN THE PAPER INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE THREE KITS ARE WRONG. (NOT EXACTLY 1:1) CHECK THAT THE PRINT SCALE OPTION IS DEFAULT OR 100%. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ While I was frustrated that I lost the figurehead of the Papegojan, I tried another kit to recover my mind. I have no complaint about this kit is perfect start for beginners. Unfortunately, I found some minor errors, such as wrong laser cut or inappropriate plan size on the manuals, so I'll leave only a few short pics to help other builders. The plans in the instructions are downsized. I scanned it and enlarged it to 102.9%. I guess that the prototype sample by the professor is different from the mass production version. It is a simple tip to make my life better. This is a critical error. The guiding line on one side of the planks goes inside because both plank sheets are identical. I would say that the kit manufacturer forgot to reverse the opposite sheet. The risers goes here. The Lowell Grand Banks Dory is done!