Veszett Roka
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Ares by GeorgeKapas - FINISHED - 1/144 - Greek brig
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GeorgeKapas reacted to a post in a topic:
Ares by GeorgeKapas - FINISHED - 1/144 - Greek brig
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Hi George, You might try TT scale railroad men, like those https://www.reynaulds.com/catalog/dept_356.aspx I do not recommend the sunbathers though, but the workers could be suitable. They have 1:144 as well, but those are airport passengers: https://www.reynaulds.com/products/Preiser/77103.aspx -
Yes Bill, this is the old Airfix model, the 'Special Edition' version of the kit. I built her 30+ years ago. I did really enjoy the build, and was a great success to compare my model to the original in Wasamuseet, Stockholm.
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I think the sequence is differs for every model, regarding the scale, the shrouds, etc. My general sequence is to erect the mast, add lower level shrouds, then lower yard with its attached ropes (footropes, parrals), add yardlifts, then attach sails with its ropes. Then next level shrouds, yard, sail up to the top. But this is general practice only, sometimes i have to follow a different path if the scale is too small and better the result if i build the mast separately with sails, then put it into the hull in one piece and attach the standing rigging and running rigging thereafter. My 1:250 Cutty Sark built this latter way, the 1:144 Wasa built by the first method. Both have furled sails. Now i'm following the bottom-to-top mode building the 1:150 Pamir. Please consider that smaller scales tends to have more ropes and details missing, thus easier to build.
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
HrMs O-13 by FreekS - 1:50 - RADIO - 1931-1940 - Last Dutch Sub “on eternal patrol”
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Veszett Roka reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
HrMs O-13 by FreekS - 1:50 - RADIO - 1931-1940 - Last Dutch Sub “on eternal patrol”
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The double hinged arm is a very elegant solution. About the captain, i guess the friction between the push rods and the captain's wooden base cause that iffynes. If i'm right, a dome cap could solve it like this: But anyways, i'm admired.
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Veszett Roka reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...
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Veszett Roka reacted to a post in a topic:
Canoa de Rancho by JacquesCousteau - Scale 1:32 - Lake Chapala Fishing and Cabotage Vessel
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Veszett Roka reacted to a post in a topic:
Mary Rose by Baker - scale 1/50 - "Your Noblest Shippe"
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Veszett Roka reacted to a post in a topic:
Unusual Fitting on 'Herzogin Cecilie'
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dafi reacted to a post in a topic:
Unusual Fitting on 'Herzogin Cecilie'
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Veszett Roka reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
HrMs O-13 by FreekS - 1:50 - RADIO - 1931-1940 - Last Dutch Sub “on eternal patrol”
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
HrMs O-13 by FreekS - 1:50 - RADIO - 1931-1940 - Last Dutch Sub “on eternal patrol”
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Unusual Fitting on 'Herzogin Cecilie'
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Unusual Fitting on 'Herzogin Cecilie'
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Unusual Fitting on 'Herzogin Cecilie'
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Veszett Roka reacted to a post in a topic:
Unusual Fitting on 'Herzogin Cecilie'
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Don't think so. The below picture from Preussen shows that the sails were moved by pure manpower.
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Veszett Roka reacted to a post in a topic:
Unusual Fitting on 'Herzogin Cecilie'
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At this exact position, PAMIR had a clamp to hold the cargo cranes boom secured during voyages. A bit differently installed, but PASSAT still have those clamps, however the crane boom has already been removed - the crane itself is the white mushroom far left on the picture. When i was on PEKING, she hadn't even cranes installed, but that was prior her restoration, based on the pictures that cranes still missing. Pic below is from PASSAT, note that the handrails have removable sections there. Also note that those fittings are looking aft, but same clamps was installed for the forward crane booms too - i wasn't able to find pictures for that part. However this is not proving that the fitting on Herzogin Cecilie has the same purpose. This one looks like a fairlead and the handrail is the same all along.
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You can connect the hatch to the captain's shaft with two bumpers (or even a single), thus the captain can open a hatch en-route to the flybridge and close it after he is down already. I believe it is just matter of space inside the tower or in the hull. Brilliant work!
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Veszett Roka reacted to a post in a topic:
HrMs O-13 by FreekS - 1:50 - RADIO - 1931-1940 - Last Dutch Sub “on eternal patrol”
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That mechanism is quite simple. Are you thinking something similar, or he will be mechanized?
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I've seen worse propellers on museum quality models. Yours is amazing Keith.
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Veszett Roka reacted to a post in a topic:
Trireme Olympias by Richard Braithwaite
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The hatches are perfect Bill!
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Try to use them for the open ports, carefully carve their openings into the hull. With this you will not risk the fittings on the covers. If you not satisfied with the openings you can cover the "hole" later and can try to remove the hardware then. Heat them carefully, this will melt the glue and you can easily remove the metal parts from wood. As for other topic regarding plastic or wood for me the considerable key is the size and scale. For instance an 1mm (sorry, cannot tell in imperial scale, maybe 1/16 or less) stanchion is equal of 15 cm (5.8 in) in my usual 1:150 scale. This is quite a thick pole, isn't it? You cannot made it from wood, but easily from plastic. Contrary, a 3 mm thick plywood door would mean a 45 cm thick one in scale, probably a size of a real rudder. However, wood models have uncomparable beauty which you cannot mimic by different material. Varnished wood is unbeatable at any way.
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Hi Bill, i would vote for option (D), which is to cut some veneer squares and attach them to the appropriate positions. Then glue the needed hardware on top. This will give a slightly protrudient hatch cover, but not as thick as the original wood hatches. If you want to flush the wood (or veneer) covers into the hull, you should use a precise chisel - you might fabricate one from a cheap small screwdriver for instance, the only thing is that it need to be very sharp.
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I'm jelaous Daniel. What an experience and joy, i was instanly fallen in love with this old lady. Interesting to see that the footropes made from stainless bowdens and the wideners (salings in german term) were made from 10*10 cm square steel
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