Jump to content

Egilman

NRG Member
  • Posts

    4,356
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Egilman

  1. Thanks my friend.... Took a little bit of figuring, but scale was the controlling factor, too much variation and it would look strange..... I suppose I could throw another coat of Pthalo Blue on it but then it would look too dark..... Next up is more research and prepwork.... I have to do something about the camo pattern on the superstructures and sort the wake out of how they looked... Unless they were in heavy seas the Gleaves class units didn't throw a lot of wake but it is the defining factor here cause the wake draws the eyes to the ship.... A first look is this shot.... Of course I stole this pic from Floating Drydock.com, (anyone have an issue with it I'll take it down) but it goes to illustrate what the wake would be and in this pic the ship was cutting through the wake of the oil tanker she is coming along side of.... a lot of wake for 15 kts with these ships.... But it shows that even with some waves, they didn't throw a lot of wake.... and it's in color.... Be a couple of days while I work out the camo.... then start building the superstructure... EG
  2. Adapt and overcome brother, a big part of this hobby is not only art, it's solving all the problems we create for ourselves.... Nice solution.... One I wouldn't have thought of...
  3. Just my opinion brother, if your going to put it in the water, sheeting is the way to go for the strength, if it's going on your shelf, planking will suffice.... Either way, when finished, you won't be able to tell the difference....... More bulkheads out of light ply are easy and all they do is add structural support, as far as running gear you cut out the centers of the new bulkheads to maintain hardware space.... Nice work so far my friend, for a first build, looks great....
  4. Ok, another small update... The paint is dry... Now this is high angle with flash and of course the ships hull is in position.... This is the angle it will probably be viewed at most of all... I have another angle..... Aside from the wake, that matches the pic.... The wake will get added when it's time to mount the hull into the water, but I think I'm spot on here... It looks like the seas in the pic.... That's what I was looking for.... Onward... EG
  5. I think from the low angle it's almost spot on.... Yes brother, as far as water goes, Deeper = Darker..... Thanks my friend... There are places for both, pedestal looks good for larger models, smaller look better (imho) on the sea in their natural environment..... On this one I've decided to model a specific day in the life.... so it has to look a certain way..... (gets to be a headache at times, and it takes longer, but in the end it is worth it)
  6. Beautiful shot..... Nice camera.... Wonderful wish for when I get rich and famous.... {chuckle} Beautiful ship, beautiful model.... nothing more needs to be said IMHO....
  7. The Wildcat doesn't have a lot of panel lines brother, at least those that are readily seeable beyond ten feet or so.... Outside of normal maintenance panels and operable parts there is no need for underlay highlighting..... I would go with a nice grey primer overall with your base grey on top and base white on the bottom, the grey primer would serve to cut the brightness of the white and make the navy grey upper have the solid depth of color you need.... use panel highlighter for the parts that need it.... Save the labor of black basing for an aircraft that would benefit from it.... Just my opinion brother.... Nice job so far
  8. A bank of high intensity LED area lights, turns nighttime into daytime..... https://www.ultrabrightlightz.com/LED-Grille-Surface-Mount-Lights/
  9. Yep, it was definitely a last option to live choice......
  10. Yeah, but there isn't much to change and you shouldn't have to cut the wing.... The inner hinged panel if a flat piece of plastic cut into an appropriate shape and a X shaped folding brace on the outside, then a single shaft from the middle of the brace to just inside the hinge point of the inner panel in the middle.... Just a couple of hours is all it would take.... With them down, there is no need to relieve the wing recess as most wouldn't know the difference.... But it is your airplane, and it's looking good....
  11. Suggestion brother, don't cut the bases completely off, just shave them down leaving just enough surface for a good glue hold and lay your soil right up to their feet.... Easier to do and more secure.... If you have ever tried to drill pin holes in skinny, tiny plastic legs, you would know why... You already know what happens to a tiny glue joint with a larger mass on the other side.... Breath on them and they break off... Shave the base down as small and thin as you can with them still standing on their bases, Glue the base to the surface using Gator's glue, then lay the soil up to their feet over the remaining base to hide it, you will be a lot happier in the long run....
  12. Now this is what I wanted to sea..... Second coat on, over in the corner about half dry..... (a bit shallower angle as well) THAT looks like the subject pic in color..... Yay Team!!! Onwards...
  13. Especially in the summer... no set pattern either.... very similar to the french WWI three color camo they put on the FT-17s except the bloches were fewer and bigger.... I always thought painting camo on german tanks was the easiest of the bunch behind US tanks....
  14. Your seeing the same thing I am my friend... where the paint is pulled out, it is brighter cause of the white tp underneath.... And it stands out... I should have dark based it...... Where it overlaps it's dark enough so I think I'll put a second coat on it and see where I'm at.... Should have less white gleaming through.... I think I'm on the right track.... Thanks Ed....
  15. Hey brother, I forgot something... Dish soap..... 1 part white glue, 2 parts water and a tsp of dish soap, you know the squirt bottle type.... It acts as a surfactant breaking the surface tension of the water so it soaks in easier.... So the glue mix doesn't bead up and lay on the surface.... Works a lot better this way.....
  16. Ok took another pic without the camera flash.... And the comparison... Before I go to darkening, I'm going to give it a second coat..... I probably should have put a dark base under the blue.... Opinions?
  17. Short update.... Finished the TP application, time to break out some paint..... First application will be the Pthalo Blue, probably going to be a bit bright in first application...... Not sure, need to let it dry first... Probably should have used royal blue.... it's a hair too blue..... Either a black wash, or a streaking of blue/black to darken it some.... Onwards....
  18. You've got the skill, the way you paint those figures, a seascape is easy peasy..... Really, they aren't hard at all my friend........
  19. I've seen some that were two color when all they had was green to paint with, but usually they were three color..... Sand Yellow, Forest Brown & Tree Green... (at least that is what I call them) I found that Military Brown, Olive Green over a sandy Yellow gives a good rendition of the scheme especially when washed with dark dark brown..... (won't pass the rivet counters or rusty bucket people though)
  20. There is a lot of custom to that 1/1 version, and it's real purty as well, thankfully they didn't chop it... Chopping ruins the classic lines in my opinion.... Thankfully they kept the runnin' boards.... Another classic to go into the collection.... I'm in...
  21. Yep a 33% mix white glue to water, (1 part glue 2 parts water) through a spray bottle.... I'll never forget that mix...... Model railroad's most used glue mix.... Gonna look fantastic.....
  22. Simple fix brother..... a flat panel on the bottom of the wing and an x brace to the outside........ She is just too purty.....
  23. I'm happy you got it sorted brother.... it's good news.... Stay well my friend, It turned out fine...
  24. Actually, they were hydraulically operated.... Here is an example of how they functioned... Yes this is a scale model but the retracts are modeled to function the same way the real ones did.... Also yes this is a PBY not a Coronado, but the mechanism was licensed by Consolidated from Saunders-Roe and they were not allowed to change it.... The Coronado had the exact same function... No cables involved.... It was hydraulically actuated mechanics...
  25. My pleasure Brother, I'll keep doing it as long as people put up with it.... It's an old standby for putting wrinkly textures on smooth surfaces, been around for generations....
×
×
  • Create New...