AnobiumPunctatum

Thanks!!!  I do like how those came out as well.   Nice and simple.  
 

 
 
Chuck

Wow, the cannons are looking great. I like the natural carriage. It will be a nice contrast to the hull color.

Post 53: Burton Pendants
 
I decided to install these before installing the topmast so that they can be slipped over the mast head.  The seizing of the blocks is nothing new but I show my procedure here for completeness.  Normally I use a standard whipping of about 10 turns.
 

 

 

 

 
If a shorter length of seizing is required as in seizing hooks, I use the simpler West Country whipping.
 
 And now the pendants in place - tied off temporally:
 

 
 

Every moment spent fairing pays rewards later when planking, I suggest running lots of battens to check for a smooth run, 13 might be a bit high on the stern side. 

Thank you Tony, I persevered sanding the marking off and with the rule cut into strips it was easier. 
I continue to slowly produce blocks, I now have 16,  4mm singles 
As you can see from the blocks Chris Watton stocks I still need to refine my skills, but I'm quite enjoying the experience.
Thanks for hitting the button and visiting. 
Cheers

Today I found time to sand the first half of the hull. After removing the adhesive tape at the keel I have to sand a little bit at the stem.
 

 

 
Those who can read have a clear advantage. 😉 If you see, I didn't follow Chucks advise, I simply overread this.  So I copied the marks on the other side of the frames.

In order to be able to securely fasten the model to the stand, two recesses for nuts were milled into the keel board and two holes were drilled for M3 threaded rods.


Today I glued the ribs into the prepared keel board. For the right-angled alignment I built small auxiliary constructions out of Lego bricks.

 

Today I found time to sand the first half of the hull. After removing the adhesive tape at the keel I have to sand a little bit at the stem.
 

 

 
Those who can read have a clear advantage. 😉 If you see, I didn't follow Chucks advise, I simply overread this.  So I copied the marks on the other side of the frames.

Today I found time to sand the first half of the hull. After removing the adhesive tape at the keel I have to sand a little bit at the stem.
 

 

 
Those who can read have a clear advantage. 😉 If you see, I didn't follow Chucks advise, I simply overread this.  So I copied the marks on the other side of the frames.

Today I found time to sand the first half of the hull. After removing the adhesive tape at the keel I have to sand a little bit at the stem.
 

 

 
Those who can read have a clear advantage. 😉 If you see, I didn't follow Chucks advise, I simply overread this.  So I copied the marks on the other side of the frames.

Today I found time to sand the first half of the hull. After removing the adhesive tape at the keel I have to sand a little bit at the stem.
 

 

 
Those who can read have a clear advantage. 😉 If you see, I didn't follow Chucks advise, I simply overread this.  So I copied the marks on the other side of the frames.

The planking is looking great.

Do not to much work on one side. An old modeller told me that it is better to work symmetrical on both side to avoid torsion of the hull.

Post 50: Constructing the Mainmast
 
All the deck features are now complete and it is time to start on making the main mast.
 

 
 

 
The mast itself was made from 13/32 square boxwood.   I decided that it would be easier to establish the square section at the head of the mast before rounding it.
 

 

 
Once this was done I first planed the edges to form a hexagon using the 710 7 rule and then turned the lower section on my home made lathe powered by  a hand drill as described earlier.
 

 
The next task was the curved cross pieces for the cross trees. I cut these using my Knew Concepts jewelers saw.
These saws are a joy to use.  The lever system ensures that the blade has the same tension every time and I find I can cut really close to the line
.
 
 

 
They were then sanded to shape  using sanding sticks and files
 

 
The slots in the linking pieces were cut on the mill and the unit put together.
 

 
The mast cap was simply made from 5/32 sheet with two round holes drilled at the appropriate distances and one of the squared with file to take the square tennon at the top of the mast.
 
The boom support ring and the mast hoops were fabricated on the mill using the rotating head as described earlier for the mast coat.
 

 

 
Cleats from Syren were sanded to shape and added below the boom ring
 

 
The cheeks were fabricated from 3/54 sheet and the metal bands simulated with black pin-striping tape
 

 
 
John
 
 
 

Thanks YankeeD and Tom!

Okay, what glue do you prefer then?
I’m just trying to follow Chuck’s instructions to the letter so when I read to use Titebond in the laser char, I don’t take risks, though I have other glues on my shelf, including a bottle from Kolderstok... 
 
Thanks Tom, no I won’t rush, the rabbet strip is on the keel now and drying for two days already, here some pictures of my slow progress, but that’s a good thing I understand ☺️.
 
Frank.

Hi everyone,
Just a small post to say I'm not dead in the water...While I was waiting for 1/4 inch stock to arrive, I re-built the wales (again). I'm gonna put a III after my
name representing how many times I need to do things to get them ok! I jumped the gun a bit and did the complete wales including paint. The darn Canuck posties take their sweet time delivering stuff so I had some time. This time around, using true 1/4" stock the strakes kind of worked out. I'm almost satisfied but will keep trying on the opposite side to get it better. After all the radiation and chemo, the pain has settled in now with a will! Doc says the cancer hasn't come back. Damage to nerve endings and swelling etc. has me banging my head against a wall. Whenever I get a pain free minute or 3 I try to do a bit on Winnie. With luck this will let up soon and things will start getting done! First thing I will do when I get over this and back to making money is get a Byrnes saw! I want to toss this piece of crap Asian mini-saw so far! I can cut things well enough with very good results but there is no repeatability. Move the fence and it will take a ton of trial and error and waste to get it back to where it was. Imagine...Allen keys and wing nuts to tighten both ends of a fence! Just shoot me! 
 

Well, I'm coming into the build a little late but looking forward to some fun. Don't have a lot of experience - several large scale plastic WWII battleships and carriers over the years and two wood ships, the Sharke from an old Sergal kit and the Bluenose from Model Shipways. looking to take things up a notch with this build. My intention is to cut all parts myself (we'll see how that goes). I am in the midst of cutting bulkheads using a 9" bandsaw and scroll saw where necessary. Started out using Elmers gluesticks but have found Loctite spray adhesive to be much better for the paper patterns. using lite ply for bulkheads and birch ply for bulkhead former. I have really enjoyed reading the discussions and try to read some more each evening to catch up and pick up some tips.
 

Folks, small update from what I could do without parts 4&5, I decided to work gunports. I made such thing first time, it was very enjoyable. what do you say ?I have to finish another half.  I tried to make them with apropriate size but  im a bit sad that hinges are little wider and therefore  more prominent as they should be, but they match perfectly round openings so they open nice tightly. Im thinking to make another side smaller, wel.. also made checkered board ahead getting inspiration from Matthias Beckmann, i like it without painting- its thin baswood. only black is painted.  meanwhile one weekend / made of  inlayed woods/strips... tiles are little smaller than scale i will see if i keep them. Vlad

 

Just a start on the gun carriages....You can paint them as I have or leave them natural.
 
I first sanded both sides of the sheet before I removed the parts....then I sanded the char lightly from the edges.
 
I prefer to paint all parts first before assembly.  But I know everyone has their preference.  Note the wheels/trucks were left natural.  In addition,  the ends of the axels were rounded off and also left natural.   I removed only the smallest amount of laser char before painting these.  You dont want to reduce the size of the parts too much because they need to fit into the jig which I will make available to everyone....also pictured.   The jig parts are all laser cut.
 

Then the axels are placed in the jig...hopefully they fit snug.  One tip is to build the jig around the actual axel parts to ensure a tight fit.  Then add the sides and glue in place.  When dry...remove from the jig.  Dont glue it to the jig.
 

Next I added the two other wood parts on the front and back ends of the carriage.  These parts are slightly longer so you have to sand them for a nice fit.  Finally I also added a 1mm round bar across the center.  It goes through the hole in the sides of the carriages...see below.
 

At this stage you can either start adding the metal work...eyebolts or finish building the carriages.  Its up to you.   I added the carriage bed and quoin at this stage....below.
 
By the way please do follow the plan for these which is available on the large sheets you printed.  I may copy them to 8 1/2X11 sheets for you guys to make it easier to print and have next to you.
 
The metal work is straight forward...
 
eye bolts and split rings.   These were made from 24 gauge black wire.  The split rings were made using a #41 drill bit.  The other bolts were just simulated using 25 pound black fishing line.  They were left standing proud of the surface a bit after slicing off the excess.
 

If you will rig each cannon dont insert the eye bolt with split rings yet.  This is easier done later by placing them onto your breech rope.  More on that later.  
 
I havent made the quoin handle yet.   That is next.  Then I will add the cannon and trunnion caps.  Stay tuned.   So far I have only made this one carriage today to show you guys the process.   This will take a while to make all 24 carriages.
 
To begin I made all of the eye bolts and split rings and cut the brass 1mm rods to length.  Its a lot of work....
 
Each carriage has 7 eye bolts...or a total of 168
2 split rings....48
and 24 bras rods cut to length and blackened.
 
ONE IMPORTANT NOTE:  its no fun to make this many eye bolts or hooks...which you will need for the carriages including another 125 eyebolts for the bulwarks.  BUT there is nothing that wrecks a model more than gun carriages with commercial eye bolts that are way too large and made from wire that is way too thin.   That is why I make my own.  It just looks really bad. So take your time.  Also note the eye bolts in that picture above.  Each one is sunk into the carriage sides a bit because that is how it was done.  This prevents them from twisting.  The cedar is great for this as it is soft and you can just push them in a bit to sink them.
 
Use the plans for the size and shape of the eyebolts.
 

I will update this when I make the quoin handle and start on the cap squares...
 
PDF download of gun carriages...
winnie gun carriages.pdf
 
 

 
 

Hello Everybody,
I finished the captains cabin rear gallery with the installation of the rudder trunk and the benches. For the small panels between the windows, I made small ebony decoration strips as framing.
First picture is the rudder trunk befor installation:

 
Here you can see the Captain Sir C. Passaro is giving order for the next work to do
 

 
The paneled front of the bench were glued against a curved template, to follow the curved edge of the flooring.
 
And the finished arrangements:
 

 

 

 

 
A little talk after everything is done.
 
Matthias

Hello everybody, I made the checker floor for the captains cabin.
 
I wanted it like on the pictures on the captains cabins:
 

First thing was to provide the stripes and cut them without breaking them.
 

 
Next step was to stick them upside down on a tape.
 

 
after that was done, a veneer template, wich had the size of the later flooring was glued to it upside down.
 
Afterwards the edges were cut and sanded in shape and the surface was polished.
 

 
Her you see the flooring on the model:
 

 

 
Matthias
 

Very nice, Jorge! And lovely cats as well.

Hi...

What you see, comes mostly from the laser. It doesn't cut perpendicular to the wood. After a little bit of sanding the outside is looking fine.
This is the stem of my model build with the parts, Chuck provides.

What you see, comes mostly from the laser. It doesn't cut perpendicular to the wood. After a little bit of sanding the outside is looking fine.
This is the stem of my model build with the parts, Chuck provides.

What you see, comes mostly from the laser. It doesn't cut perpendicular to the wood. After a little bit of sanding the outside is looking fine.
This is the stem of my model build with the parts, Chuck provides.