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Danstream

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  1. Danstream
    I like your rendering of the Africa camouflage. The result is very convincing. Waiting to see more, cheers, Dan
  2. Danstream
    Fine model, very nicely executed. The presentation in the display case is very elegant. Congratulations, Dan
  3. Danstream
    Slowly going on with the camo scheme. Worms of blu-tack applied as masking material: The area above once sprayed with the dark ghost gray: I need to touch up some areas on the spine which did not have enough contrast. This is the drawback of spraying one area at the time because it is difficult to keep the right consistency between the different applications. By the way, I have also repaired the metallic panels: At close distance, some blemishes of the surface can still be noticed, but I will have to live with that. Thanks for following, Dan
  4. Danstream
    @king derelict and others, I am glad that you like it. It's a bit of work, but it is one way to make an uniform grey surface more interesting. In addition, for the aircraft I have in mind there are pictures showing them quite weathered. kind regards, Dan
  5. Danstream
    Hi, after having declared the light gray application as finished, I removed the masking of the metallic panels because I was anxious to see whether the metallic surfaces were spoiled by the prolonged contact with the adhesive of the tape. Fortunately, the Vallejo metallic withstood well the adhesive. However, there was a problem because, while spraying the grey paint, not having closed the airbrush cup with its lid, I spilled some paint onto the masked area. The very thinned paint found its way through the tape and marred one part of the metallic finish. 🤬 Due to the limited extension of the damage, I think that it can be repaired, but that is very annoying. After having prepared the paint mix for the darker gray, I started masking the most difficult and curved area on the forward of the airframe. For that, I wanted to use rolls of blu-tack which I never tried before. I am going to do one area at the time, so to limit to a minimum the time the blu-tack will remain in contact with the paint. I sprayed the dark grey making irregular blotches of color. Eventually, I think that the blu-tack worked reasonably well and it did not leave any oily markings on the paint. Now, I need to go through the rest of the darker areas and that will take some time. And, yes, I will have to repair the marred metallic panel as well. Best regards, Dan
  6. Danstream
    And I am glad to share my build with you! Then, please find a small addition to the color build up which now looks pretty final after few additions of paint. I have saturated a bit more the coverage. You have to consider that the darker grey zones will be added to the wings and to the back of the fuselage. The bottom looks ok, some weathering will complete its final look. Transparent layers that will be added for decals and inks usually tend to smooth the contrast. That's all for now, best regards, Dan
  7. Danstream
    Indeed, the very first livery was 'Air Superiority Blue' tones. Apparently, the blue didn't give the expected mimetic result because it made the silhouette of the plane appear dark and quite visible against the sky background. The 'Compass Ghost Scheme' replaced it.
  8. Danstream
    Hi, I started the application of the camouflage which, for the livery I chose, is the early one designated as 'Compass Ghost Scheme' made with a Light Ghost Grey background FS 36375 with areas on the upper surface of Dark Ghost Grey FS 36320. Using Tamiya paints, I found that the lighter grey can be rendered with 1 part of XF-19 and 2 or 3 parts of XF-2. For the darker gray, I will use a mix of 1 part XF-66, 1 part of XF-54 and 3 parts of XF-2. I usually thin a lot the paints and I also add a dose of clear paint to the mix to make it more transparent. Just for fun, I am posting few progressive applications of the light grey to show to whom might be interested, the non-uniform coverage of the paint. Considering the darker areas that will follow, I think I am almost there. Next I will continue with some local filling in with some grey variations. Kind regards, Dan
  9. Danstream
    It is good to see you back in action. The last print of the engine looks great. Dan
  10. Danstream
    Nicely done, carefully assembled and painted. Congrats, Dan
  11. Danstream
    Hi, back home on Friday, fully recovered. Spending 8 days with yourself in a room was a meditative experience. Now back to business, paint had the chance to fully cure, hence I could mask the metallic panels. Then, I sprayed the rest with light coats of Gunze semi-gloss black. I did not aim at a full deep coverage, preferring a very light layer instead. Admittedly, despite its age, the surface details of this model are very nicely done. All black, it looks very spiffy and cool, like a bat-plane, practically. After addressing few blemishes of the filled joints, white, random mottles and wiggles were applied to obtain a background texture for the grey paint. Next, I will carefully wet sand everything with micro-mesh pads to obtain a smooth-shiny surface ready to receive the first grey tone. Best regards, Dan
  12. Danstream
    Good luck @Egilman, may everything go well. I will be waiting for you continuing this build very soon. Cheers my friend, Dan
  13. Danstream
    Hi all, thanks for your kind messages. They are of help for me! Yes, I am vaccinated with two shots, I did not take a third one. Symtoms are not too bad and not related to breathing functions, just sweating and strong headhaches, but according to the experience of other people, they should disappear in few days. In the boredom of being confined in a room, I will keep reading this site with even more interest. 🙂 Cheers, Dan
  14. Danstream
    Took Covid while in a business trip, I am now confined in a hotel room for seven days. This is very annoying. This means there will be no progress for a while. Thanks Denis, the airbrush is a very nice tool and you can get very smooth finish once you get some experience. Some consider it not very practical, indeed you need a lot of operations for preparing it and for cleaning it afterwards, but it is a hobby and I think that the whole activity of building models is mostly entirely not practical 🙂 Cheers, Dan
  15. Danstream
    Another paper marvel. After the streamlined surfaces of a Spitfire, no doubt that the quality of this will be equally impressive. Dan
  16. Danstream
    @mikegr, I don't know the Green Stuff World, hence I cannot comment. I read that they are acrylics (like the Vallejo ones). If you already have them, you can try them on a scrap plastic and try also their adhesion by a pull test with masking tape. The range of offered tints is also an important criterion. Good luck, Dan
  17. Danstream
    As a small addition to my metallic panels, I added strakes of a slightly darker aluminium and bluish metal so to break the uniformity. I also added some dark pigments at the junction of the panels. Finally, I sprayed a coat of Tamiya transparent with a drop of Tamiya 'Smoke' to act as a filter and make the metallic color more realistic. The transparent layer should also help to protect the metallic finish from the adhesive of the masking tape that I will have to apply and keep for long time when spraying the camouflage on the rest of the airframe. In addition, I sprayed a darker tone to the petals of jet exhausts to increase the contrast with the rest. Now the final effect is like in the following: I will decide later if I will apply more weathering effects after completing the rest of the airframe. Best regards, Dan
  18. Danstream
    @mikegr, I tried the Tamiya metallic colors (silver, flat aluminium, etc.), but I always found that they have a too coarse pigment grains that remains noteacible after application, perhaps with the exception of their Titanium Silver. I never tried the Italeri ones. Dan
  19. Danstream
    I found it, it was the movie 'The party', I remember as a teenager falling from my chair for laughing when I watched it 😂
  20. Danstream
    Under the sun light it looks very nice. Metallic finish looks very realistic from here. Cheers, Dan
  21. Danstream
    It is going to be a great, imposing model. You are in the home stretch now, keep going. You have a very detailed interior. Waiting for the final, Cheers, Dan
  22. Danstream
    Very nice model Mike! Very distinctive car, typically British. I love it. Isn't the car driven by Peter Sellers in one of his unforgettable movies? Love the interior. Cheers, Dan
  23. Danstream
    Just read about the accident. Great that it was recoverable, after so much work it would have been a blow. Keep going, the farm and the latest addition look great. Cheers, Dan
  24. Danstream
    Just in case you want to get them, the Vallejo paints we are talking about here, are not from the lines quoted above. They are from their specific metallic paint line (called 'Metal Color'), the bottles can be seen in one of my pictures.
  25. Danstream
    Thank you Alan for your comment. Indeed, I like these paints. They are acrylic paints with an amazingly fine pigments. There are other good products around which are lacquer or enamel based, but I never tried them and I am satisfied with these acrylics. These are some examples of how they perform when used as NMF: Their good points are that they do not smell much, they dry quickly and they are quite resistant to masking tape once well cured. I usually apply them on a black (Tamiya) coat, but you can change the color to get different nuances of the same paint. They need to be applied in very thin layers, therefore any imperfection of the substrate will show up. As I said, I do not use their specific Vallejo black base paint, but perhaps it is a good idea to get their Vallejo airbrush thinner. Although they are ready to be used out of the bottle, sometimes I add few drops of their thinner. The thinner is also useful to clean the airbrush or to prime the airbrush before loading the paint. Good luck, Dan

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