BANYAN

Ah, the skills of the artisan!  Very many thanks for showing what is possible on the bigger saws.  I'll have to invest in one of these blades and have it sharpened as you have shown.

cheers

Pat

Hi again Adrieke, sort of - but in my case it was the other way around; the bottom lip of the slot sat too low and I had to sand the flat of the spine down a bit.   I must admit, I did not seem to have as may issues as you have found with the shape of the spine, but I did not check as closey as you appear to have.  I had to pack a couple of the bulkhead slots, and file down others to get the bulkheads to align correctly (with the bearding line and top of the spine), and I also encountered that bow shape/contour issue (but not as marked as your's appears to be).

The major issue I had was the contour / run / fair (??) of the bulkhead tops in the forecastle area, as when I placed the false deck, it was left too high for the hawse holes for the anchor cables to be shown correctly (the hawse holes ended up below the deck line).  Unfortunately I did not pick this up until too late and I assumed (I know ) that if the bulkheads aligned with the top of the spine the countour would be correct.  This said, other AL builders do not seem to have experienced this problem.  I think your fixes may resolve this issue, but it would pay to be extra carefule before gluing the false deck in place

It makes you wonder what sort of Quality Control is in place when the same kit parts (supposedly off the same production line) can differ so much?

cheers

Pat

Hi Danny, great to see the log emerging   Do you intend to show the log in the same build sequence as version 1 with the updates/corrections made at the point when you actually did them, or will the new log show the corrected/fixed parts in the approriate part of the log (with the fixes in the "boo-boo thread) ?

This must be putting a serious dent in your build time?

cheers

Pat

Hi Adrieke, good luck with your build. 

Great to see that you have spotted the errors and have a chance to correct these before you assemble the skeleton.  You have identified the slot in bulkhead 5 - what is the error there - is it that it doesn't align with the top (flat) of the spine at that fitting point?  Mine (the flat) was actually a little high and simply had to e sanded down.

Also is this a 1:80 (as stated in your title)?   That will make some of the scaleconversions for some of your fittings quite interesting

Look forward to seeing her come to life.

cheers

Pat

Good luck with getting the Admiral's OK Mike - now, I just gotta put some more pressure on getting the OK for the fridge

Hopefully you will find what you need down at DCC

cheers

Pat

Hi Neill,

My thoughts align with Rusty.  I bought the micrometer stop but rarely use it (Eric has obviously found a good use, I haven't for the cutting methods I use), and I use my Byrnes sander to create bevel angles so the angle table is simply a "nice to have" for me.  I have several blades with different kerfs (to assist in cutting grating stock etc) with a zero-tollerance insert for each.  You can make up your own from wood - but Jim's are purpose made, fit properly and are relatively cheap.

Due to the distance, I have also invested in a spare belt (not needed yet) so that should I need it, there is no delay in shipping time

cheers

Pat

Hi John, in his tables (first column - description) he uses these terms.  I don't have a copy with me so will respond later when I can scan ad show).  For some he uses the term Cabled (I think for preventer) and for other Cable laid (shroud?)  This may be the other way around so I will need to check to be specific.

cheers

Pat

Could I please seek the opinion of the more experienced members in determining the diffence between the terms Cable laid and cabled used by Steel in his tables.

When refering to some ropes he states "cabled" while for others he states "Cable Laid".  Initially I assumed it was the same thing stated differently; but why, within the same table would he do so - there had to be a specific purpose ot reason for using the different terms?

Many thanks

Pat

Very nice scale-rope wrk Daniel; and very timely for my build also   - Thanks.

cheers

Pat

Hi Paul, my apologies mate, I had not noticed the rebirth of your excellent log before this.  I will now be following along in your wake again as this wonderful model progresses.  i do hope you will reshow how you achieved some of the great detail you achieved on the radar installations?

cheers

Pat

Hi Alex;

Now that is a very clever idea about the angled pin part - thank you for sharing.

cheers

Pat

And the lady shows her lines Great to see these pics again Gary; thanks for taking the time to repost them.

cheers

Pat

Take your time with the reposting Ed; although I can understand your need to finish and progress.  It has been very beneficial rereading your posts on this second iteration, as there is so much useful information that I have missed or forgotten from the first time around.

Many thanks for perservering with this.

cheers

Pat

Just luck of the draw I suppose but the standard flexible vacuum hose (shopvac machines) fits neatly into the ID of the Byrnes machine here (no adaptors needed).  Whereas we pay (very high) transport costs to get Jim's machines here, I suppose this is a small off-set saving   - the eternal optimist...

cheers

Pat

No matter what your profession Karl, that is some seriously good and expertly finshed detailing.  The furniture itself would make some very good models in their own right.

IMPRESSIVE!  

cheers

Pat

Almost there Popeye - the paint job is very 'neat'!

WRT the Aztec airbrush, does it take the interchangable tips/nozzles?  if so, there is one for doing fine lines (can't remember the colour code for it off the top of my head - sorry)

cheers

Pat

Mark, in addition to your comments, I think most examples highlighted are the owner's own photograph of the box /graphic etc rather than a direct lift of a graphic; which is then the copyright?   We are also non-profit so there is no commercial gain ....  I am no lawyer but I think these companies would see this as a cheap way of advertising?

cheers

Pat

Thanks for looking in Dave, and well spotted.  Nope I have erred and only realised it too late.  This is my first major build (and these masts are from scrtatch) and I have a lot to learn yet   I have ben telling myself that this is ok, but one of these days soon I will get the urge to remake them as while everything else is OK, the alignment of the sheaves in my masts is incorrect.

cheers

Pat

Don't under-estimate what you are doing mate; very nice work and a very interesting log.

cheers

Pat

Even better viewing the second time around - very impressive workanship Karl.  I look forward to your further installments.

cheers

Pat

Thanks John, appreciate the offer.  I would be most interested in the deatils of the fitting on each of the lower masts, and the quarterdeck bulwarks (inner details) especially cleats and the like.  The AOTS and the replica are similar in many respects, but the replica appears to make use of many more cleats on the masts and bulwarks (in lieu of belaying pins for the latter).  For example, the AOTS does not show as many cleats on the lower main mast as is evidident in a phopto of the replica I have from a few years back.  It is the only photo of that sort of detail I have, so your offer would be greatly appreciated.

cheers

Pat

Great to see her again Rusty;  a very nice build.  This will make a very beautful display model.

cheers

Pat

Thanks John, nearly missed the 'double intende' - can only go upwards now   Biggest issue I am having at the moment is determining what fittings/furniture to attach to the lower masts - the AOTS, kit plans and replica differ so much

cheers

Pat

Hey Pat,

 

I better come over to your workshop and start making and dyeing ropes now you have everything sorted !

.........and it will only cost you a very small fee Brian - you know, knock with your elbows

cheers

Pat

Thanks Chuck, will have to look into that.  Sorry to trouble you with a further question, but could you please explain the mixture and method of dying you use (if it's not giving away a trade secret ).  Do you use it straight out of the can, dilute it etc to ensure the tack-free uniform finish; and do you simply soak it in the solution and let it hang to dry.  This is a great finish and I would really like to try and replicate it if I can find it, or something of the same type over here.

cheers

Pat