BANYAN

bassically,  the only things left to do is to finish the anchors,  and rig the jib's lower corner.   after the anchors were painted,  the chain was tied on using copper thread.
 

 

 

 
the same was done for the starboard side.
 

 

 

 
this finishes off the build........I had some fun with this one.   the kit is very well done......perhaps a little sub standard in a few areas,  but tweaking them,  to enhance them,  added to the challenge.  I also didn't want to add too much,  as I did in the last couple of kit builds.
 

 

 

 
thanks to everyone who looked in and commented on this build....I really appreciated it greatly 
 
 

Nice work Mark - you'll probably find the missing one just as you finish all four
cheers
 
Pat

Thank you Grant, Michiel, Mark, John and Brian.
 
I've (almost) finished the Forward Aft Bulkhead - only the hinges and locks to go. I spot-glued the upper cant to the underside of a spare quarterdeck beam and glued the three solid sections and four doors to the cant and each other :
 


 
Two pics of the assembly dry-fitted - very little modification was needed :
 


 
A closeup of one of the Cants for Brian. These are 3" square battens with a rounded top-outer edge. The sections of cant in the door openings will be cut out later :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks for dropping in Pat and Adrieke.
 
 
Hmm, maybe I'd better send them down to you Pat - I won't be needing them for quite a while, and they're getting out of practice :
 


 
I could do a better job on shrouds and ratlines than them now :D
 
  Danny

No matter what your profession Karl, that is some seriously good and expertly finshed detailing.  The furniture itself would make some very good models in their own right.
 
IMPRESSIVE!  
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks for looking in Christian. BTW - there are four eyebolts immediately either side of the Main Mast and three on each side adjacent to it that should also be drilled and fitted before any work begins on the Pump Cranks. I'll drill these now and show you the updates later.
 
Hi all,
 
The final part of the Chain Pump setup - I've glued in the Pillars at the aft ends of the cranks. I was bumping and bending the aft ends of the cranks quite a bit, so I figured it was time to stabilize the whole structure. This meant fitting the 3rd Quarterdeck Beam as well :
 

 

 
My Aft Hatch is a little out of alignment - it's actually 2mm too short. I knew this a while ago - the problem is much further down. The Lower Well was slightly too far forward (2mm to be precise) and things further upwards had to be shifted to accommodate this. I'm not about to rip up two decks to fix an otherwise minor error properly .
 
  Danny

Hi Michael, Here is Mk1 of the jig. I didn't get around to making the specialized clamp around the table yet, and used a regular clamp temporarily to see how it would work. It is great. The micro-adjuster allowed me to sneak up on a perfect measure, and it was very fast and efficient to cut, move the fence and wood, cut again. It is safer, and the saw cuts more cleanly, making those small cuts on the left side of the sawblade rather than tight up against the fence. The nylon screw is gentle on the edge of the wood, and acts as a featherboard of sorts for holding the wood against the fence.
 
My original drawing shows the clamp a little out of proportion to the actual table top. There is actually less overhang, and so less area for the clamp to grip. I am not sure how sturdy this original idea will be. I'll work on it another time...
 
Thanks again for the elegant idea of the rod rather than the sliding wood stop.
 
Mark
 

Hi Ed,
 
I am enjoying rereading this log and finding all the additional 'stuff' my poor little brain did not absorb first time around.  Earlier you showed your technique for 'freehand' cutting the curved beams on your scroll saw.  Did you leave a bit of 'meat' to be sanded off or have your skills advanced to the point you can follow the line very closely?  I am interested in your technique of first milling the mortices, but with my skills I would butcher most beams if I cut too close to the line.
 
I find that reading this online additional pictorial info really adds to your excellent book; makes things a little easier to understand in some places.
 
Thanks again for rebuilding this log, I can fully appreciated the time and effort this is taking.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi all, and Pat in particular -
 
Here's the Chain "in-situ". This is only a very rough Dry Fit to see if I have enough chain to do the full circuit .... I don't have quite enough, two more links will be needed to make it disappear into the Tubes. I'll add two more Saucers as well - these can be epoxied inside the tubes to properly finish off both ends. The Rhodings at the top of the Cisterns will bring the chain and sprocket up a little, and the shaft is simply a piece of wire so far - it needs a LOT more work before it's finished  :
 

 

 
 
I used Masking Tape on the open deck around the cisterns to prevent any mishaps like dropping the chain into the hold   .
 
 
  Danny

Here is an idea for inexpensive spreader bars.
Spreader Bar.doc

Somehow I missed your return Doris; wonderful to see you and your superb model back
 
cheers
 
Pat

Jay, without looking for your Calculator (it's somewhere underneath those plans in the corner) what is 7 13/16" in Metric?
 
  Danny

Look on the bright side Bill - at least she didn't call YOU a "useless tool" :D .
 
  Danny

Hi Pat -
 
It is a cost consideration and I guess that I never really thought about resharpening them.  I was talking to Lloyd Warner a couple years ago, who used to be in my business but continues to sell his great blocks, and he resharpens all of his blades himself.  For a couple years his blade resharpening presentation was included in the annual NRG traveling workshops.  Don't believe that they ever came to Australia though!
 
Sometimes after a blade dulls I put it in with my "Ebony Only" pile.  Duller blades that run hotter actually do a little better job moving the oils around in ebony and the strips end up a very even color.
 
In my previous life I worked for an industrial tool distributor and that is how items like those blades were sold to industrial customers who used them in manufacturing.  Many of my customers would have their tools resharpened, but it would be in large quantities and more carbide than high speed steel.  So I guess with my relative low use on these blades I just never considered that, although I do get my tablesaw blade resharpened.  Looking at Thurston's website they mention on finer pitched blades, which would apply to at least the two finer pitched ones that I use, they remove the teeth and then mill new ones as their resharpening process.
 
Also I pick up my blades wholesale, so they are pretty reasonable.  Tried doing some searches in Australia for this type of blade and I couldn't really find where they are sold in your country on a wholesale basis.  Must be a different marketing channel.  If you can find something similar, even with a different arbor hole size, they might be worth a try.  If you find ones with a different arbor hole, you should be able to also pick up an adapter and I believe Jim would sell you one but the postage just for a couple "washers" would be a little high.  Of course if you add them to an order for another Byrnes Machine...ropewalk or sander then that might be cost effective.  Met both Jim and his wife Donna over the years at some of the conferences and they are great people.  I guess I feel a little reluctant to suggest other sources for blades because I consider them as friends.
 
Danny, Frank, Geoff thanks for the comments and pinning the post.
 
Jeff

Hi Danny & Anyone Else with an interest
 
I've update my website with some information and pictures.
 
Here is the direct link:  http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php
 
You can also access it by going directly to my website from the sponsors link and then pull up the Byrnes Saw Operation page.
 
Cheers,
 
Jeff Hayes
www.hobbymillusa.com

You guys are starting to embarrass me.  But if you want to give credit where credit is really due you should be talking about my wife Donna who is actually the owner of the company. 
 
 For those of you that don't know we started Model Machines about 10 years ago on a part time basis.  Just the two of us,  no other employees to worry about. At that time we were both working another full time job at a design and manufacturing firm in Orlando that I was part owner of.  I was head of the machine shop with 3 other partners and Donna was hired as the controller.  The company was in bad shape finantially when we hired Donna and in a year or so she brought the company back from the edge and made it a profitable business again.  Donna has a 4 year business degree from the University of Indiana and there isn't a lot she doesn't know about the business world.  What she doesn't know she makes it her business to find out.  When we started Model Machines she did all the research to get the company up and running and also thought up the name of the company.  She does all the taxes,  pays all the bills,  does all the paper work and keeps everything running smoothly.   I design all the machines and make all the parts,  do the assembly and ship them out. 
 
When you call us with a problem or an order more than likely you talked to her and 99% of the time she can take care of your needs whether it's replacement parts,  lost screws, diagnosing an electrical problem, delivery times or just how things work.  She is on the ball and has you covered.  She is the one who emails you when your stuff ships,  calls you when your address has changed and generally makes sure you get what you need when you need it.  If it was my job to do all that no doubt we would be out of business a long time ago.    She is the boss.  
 
And to this day it remains,  just the two of us.
 
regards
Jim Byrnes
Model Machines

.........and it will only cost you a very small fee Brian - you know, knock with your elbows
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Pat, I think there was  more than a touch of artistic licence taken in portraying some of those below decks scenes, and some of the deck heights are very suspect.
 
The differences in below deck space between say Victory of 1765, and Warrior of 1860 are quite marked, it's very interesting to do back to back tours of both ships, and see the advances made in living conditions between the two eras.
 
B.E.

Apart from the excellent build quality of his machines, the single other quality that sets them apart is his service.  As another example, I purchased one of Jim's earliest ropewalks.  While the build quality was great I rapidly became very frustrated with the quality of the rope it was producing.  We corresponded for some time and Jim was quite patient.  It became evident that trying to sort the problem by email was not going to work out, so Jim asked me to return the machine (at his cost) for him to have a look at.  Now remember I live down under so this was not cheap   In his words " I can't have a customer on the other side of the world unhappy with the product".
 
It turned out one of the pulley belts had stretched (was too slack) and was causing inconsistent lay up of the rope.  Jim returned the machine to me (again at his cost) and all is working fine now.  Not too many companies would go to that extent!  I have every machine Jim has built and none have let me down yet - that is simple testimony of the quality of his products.
 
Jim you can pay me later - two crates of beer should do it  - sorry folks being flippent - just a very happy customer!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Apart from the excellent build quality of his machines, the single other quality that sets them apart is his service.  As another example, I purchased one of Jim's earliest ropewalks.  While the build quality was great I rapidly became very frustrated with the quality of the rope it was producing.  We corresponded for some time and Jim was quite patient.  It became evident that trying to sort the problem by email was not going to work out, so Jim asked me to return the machine (at his cost) for him to have a look at.  Now remember I live down under so this was not cheap   In his words " I can't have a customer on the other side of the world unhappy with the product".
 
It turned out one of the pulley belts had stretched (was too slack) and was causing inconsistent lay up of the rope.  Jim returned the machine to me (again at his cost) and all is working fine now.  Not too many companies would go to that extent!  I have every machine Jim has built and none have let me down yet - that is simple testimony of the quality of his products.
 
Jim you can pay me later - two crates of beer should do it  - sorry folks being flippent - just a very happy customer!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Apart from the excellent build quality of his machines, the single other quality that sets them apart is his service.  As another example, I purchased one of Jim's earliest ropewalks.  While the build quality was great I rapidly became very frustrated with the quality of the rope it was producing.  We corresponded for some time and Jim was quite patient.  It became evident that trying to sort the problem by email was not going to work out, so Jim asked me to return the machine (at his cost) for him to have a look at.  Now remember I live down under so this was not cheap   In his words " I can't have a customer on the other side of the world unhappy with the product".
 
It turned out one of the pulley belts had stretched (was too slack) and was causing inconsistent lay up of the rope.  Jim returned the machine to me (again at his cost) and all is working fine now.  Not too many companies would go to that extent!  I have every machine Jim has built and none have let me down yet - that is simple testimony of the quality of his products.
 
Jim you can pay me later - two crates of beer should do it  - sorry folks being flippent - just a very happy customer!
 
cheers
 
Pat

is more Mark

Not a bad idea.  Now if I can just modify the plans to reflect the stuck clamp and pass it off as a piece of 18th Century deck furniture.  Or at the appropriate moment it will fly free and become... wait.. Schrödinger's cat comes to mind.. this is quantum physic's solution you're handing me.   

Hi all,
 
I've had several requests to show how I built some special clamps that come in particularly useful if you are building a Fully Framed hull. They could also come in handy for other more "conventional" builds.
 
 

 
 
There are three types of Clamp :
 
1. The first goes between Frames to hold internal or external planks.
2. "Spreader" clamps that hold internal planking.
3. Parallel clamps that don't pull two pieces out of line like normal spring clamps have a tendency to do.
 
Full Credit for these clamps goes to EdT (Ed Tosti) - I'm only showing my method of copying his ideas. Ed's are probably of superior quality to mine - I've used a more simplified approach that can be done fairly easily by most builders using common Right-Hand threaded screws.
 
"Between the Frames" Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These are made from 3/4" x 5/32" (19mm x 4mm) brass machine screws or threaded bar and matching Wing Nuts - I found them at Bunnings, but they should be available at any reasonably good Hardware Store. The other brass part is some thin brass strip - I used 0.5mm. Note that you can use any sizes of screws and strip - I just used whatever I had "on hand" or could buy easily. I wouldn't go much thinner than the 0.5mm strip though - it's plenty strong enough and will fit right down into very narrow gaps between frames.
 
I cut the heads off the screws, cut a 4mm deep slot into the cut-off end and Silver Soldered the two pieces together. Then I drilled a 2.5mm hole to accept the 2mm Pin. A bit of "oversize" makes it a lot easier to push the pin through the hole.
 
The wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood - I used Australian Cherry Ballart because I had quite a bit of it in stock, but any other close-grained hardwood would do the job. A 2mm hole was drilled for the pin - this needs to be a good but "easy" slide-in fit.
 
The only item of note not shown in the pics below is some extra bracing I glued to one face of the larger block - this prevents the wood from splitting when pressure is applied. It strengthens the saw cut (these pics were taken before I had my first "Block Failure"). Note the direction of the grain in the large block.
 
 

 

 
 
 
Spreader Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These Clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp planking etc and can't use one of the "Between the Frames" clamps, although they can be used in combination with one of them as shown in the pic above. They work very well anywhere inside a hull. I made these in 4 or 5 different lengths depending on the position in the hull they were to be placed. All parts were interchangeable, so a lot of length combinations could be used - the only difference is in the lengths of the brass tubing, the "heads" and "tails" of the clamps are all identical.
 
I used 4mm x 25mm RH-threaded Stainless Steel Machine Screws, Washers and Nuts (again because I had a lot of them in stock - any other combination around that size would be OK). The "swivels" are made from 1/4" (6.5mm) brass round bar that have been drilled and tapped to accept the screws. 5mm brass tubing of various lengths is the only other thing needed.
 
Again, the wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood. The "head" is drilled to accept the swivel, the "tail" is epoxied to the screw to prevent it from falling out when the clamp is tightened. I sanded the end of the "head" to allow it to pivot when necessary.
 
 

 

 
 
Parallel Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp two pieces together without distorting their faces from each other. They also avoid the twisting effect that you can get with G-clamps, but are usually used in similar situations to them.
 
They are made from two pieces of hardwood, 8mm x 11mm x 65mm. The same size Swivels as the "Spreader Clamps" are used, with the same size screws as the "Between the Frames" clamps. Again, use any sizes close to the mark that you can get - it's not all that vital.
 
Here's an Exploded View of the Clamp :
 
 

 
 
And a description of how it goes together is below. Two Swivels are threaded to accept the screws, one is a "clearance" hole drilled right through, and the fourth is a clearance hole drilled part-way into the swivel to act as a "stopper". This one is glued into the timber with Silicone or Epoxy.
 
 

 
 
I made about 18 "Between the Frames" clamps, 10 "Spreader" clamps and 6 "Parallel" clamps - that seems to be adequate.
 
  Danny

Hi Tom and John.
 
Great photos John and some useful ideas - leave it with me
 
Tom, when I make up such coils I tend to do most of them off the model.  I figure 8 the pin and finish with a dab of glue.  I then use a former which is a simple scrap piece of square or rectangular wood and I place a pin on the upper and another on the side face.  The position of the pins with respect to the edge determines the size of the loop and where the bend will occur - this needs to be closer to the top of one of the loops.  I then create loops around the pins and the bend over the edge created a bit of a "bend" in trhe coil such that when I fit it, the tendency for it to stick out is eliminated.
 
This is not a problem when you actually use the tail of the line and use the method described in my first post as the loop thgrough the coil goes over the pin and the rest can hang vertically.
 
I hope that explains it clearly enough?
 
cheers
 
Pat