BANYAN

Thanks Michael, plenty of those extra large scale rules hanging around; I hoped no one would notice that cheat  
 
Thanks Mark, I was intimidated at first, but once I broke it down to chunk sized mini-projects it all came together so to speak.  the hardest part was working out the soldering sequence to minimise heat transfer to other parts and allow access to parts still needed to be done.
 
Appreciate the comments guys.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi folks, I have made some progress on the winches, with the parts now all turned, photoetched etc.  I have managed to put the ironwork (brass) for one of them together but still to add the wooden 'bed'.  The photos show the progress as I went along but still a lot of cleaning up to do.  Most of this is fine metal powder, but a few 'dags' here and there to fix. 
 
The whole assembly is only 15mm long by 11mm high.  The small handwheel was purchased but the rest of the parts including the larger hand wheel, except the tapered drum which I turned, are PE that I drew up and had etched.  The slightly grooved effect n the drum is deliberate as it had grooves for the first turns of the wire to lay up into.  I have styled this after a winch illustrated in Underhill's 'Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier'.
 
The cog wheel is two pieces of .2mm bras with tiny alignment holes which allowed me to solder them together and keep the teeth aligned.  The worm gear is still beyond my skills so I simply used some brass tube (1.5 mm).  The other handwheel is set into a short length of 1.0 mm tube, which is then partially inserted into some small brass square section, to represent the gear box for the drum brake, which is made from thin copper (bends more easily).
 
The small ding in the tapered wire drum is bigger than planned but is intend as a 'flat' to let me drill through as a starting point for the steel wire rope that will be attached.  The halliards (steel wire) were bent to the winch and remained there permanently  with the tension held by the drum brake.  My next problem is to work out how to fit this strongly enough to allow me to create a 'little' tension on the scaled halliards without pulling the winch away from the deck.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

 

 

 

Ditto Keith's last comment
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks Michael, plenty of those extra large scale rules hanging around; I hoped no one would notice that cheat  
 
Thanks Mark, I was intimidated at first, but once I broke it down to chunk sized mini-projects it all came together so to speak.  the hardest part was working out the soldering sequence to minimise heat transfer to other parts and allow access to parts still needed to be done.
 
Appreciate the comments guys.
 
cheers
 
Pat

I would say that is a pretty good effort Steven, I think the overall effect is there - it is distinctive and infers mail cladding. I look forward to seeing your small 'army' complete
 
cheers
 
Pat

Impressive joinery skills Daniel; very crisp clean work with great details.
 
cheers
 
Pat

No apologies necessary, you're the Captain of that ship!
 
Sometimes, one thump's up just isn't enough. 

That is seriously nice work Jason; she is looking good with her 'teeth' added.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Some very fine detail there Greg, will add greatly to the model.  
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi folks, I have made some progress on the winches, with the parts now all turned, photoetched etc.  I have managed to put the ironwork (brass) for one of them together but still to add the wooden 'bed'.  The photos show the progress as I went along but still a lot of cleaning up to do.  Most of this is fine metal powder, but a few 'dags' here and there to fix. 
 
The whole assembly is only 15mm long by 11mm high.  The small handwheel was purchased but the rest of the parts including the larger hand wheel, except the tapered drum which I turned, are PE that I drew up and had etched.  The slightly grooved effect n the drum is deliberate as it had grooves for the first turns of the wire to lay up into.  I have styled this after a winch illustrated in Underhill's 'Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier'.
 
The cog wheel is two pieces of .2mm bras with tiny alignment holes which allowed me to solder them together and keep the teeth aligned.  The worm gear is still beyond my skills so I simply used some brass tube (1.5 mm).  The other handwheel is set into a short length of 1.0 mm tube, which is then partially inserted into some small brass square section, to represent the gear box for the drum brake, which is made from thin copper (bends more easily).
 
The small ding in the tapered wire drum is bigger than planned but is intend as a 'flat' to let me drill through as a starting point for the steel wire rope that will be attached.  The halliards (steel wire) were bent to the winch and remained there permanently  with the tension held by the drum brake.  My next problem is to work out how to fit this strongly enough to allow me to create a 'little' tension on the scaled halliards without pulling the winch away from the deck.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

 

 

 

This will be one-stunning model Michael.  I love the detail and quality of the work.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Very nice work GL, a very nicely detailed cross-section.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi folks, I have made some progress on the winches, with the parts now all turned, photoetched etc.  I have managed to put the ironwork (brass) for one of them together but still to add the wooden 'bed'.  The photos show the progress as I went along but still a lot of cleaning up to do.  Most of this is fine metal powder, but a few 'dags' here and there to fix. 
 
The whole assembly is only 15mm long by 11mm high.  The small handwheel was purchased but the rest of the parts including the larger hand wheel, except the tapered drum which I turned, are PE that I drew up and had etched.  The slightly grooved effect n the drum is deliberate as it had grooves for the first turns of the wire to lay up into.  I have styled this after a winch illustrated in Underhill's 'Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier'.
 
The cog wheel is two pieces of .2mm bras with tiny alignment holes which allowed me to solder them together and keep the teeth aligned.  The worm gear is still beyond my skills so I simply used some brass tube (1.5 mm).  The other handwheel is set into a short length of 1.0 mm tube, which is then partially inserted into some small brass square section, to represent the gear box for the drum brake, which is made from thin copper (bends more easily).
 
The small ding in the tapered wire drum is bigger than planned but is intend as a 'flat' to let me drill through as a starting point for the steel wire rope that will be attached.  The halliards (steel wire) were bent to the winch and remained there permanently  with the tension held by the drum brake.  My next problem is to work out how to fit this strongly enough to allow me to create a 'little' tension on the scaled halliards without pulling the winch away from the deck.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

 

 

 

Thanks for the likes, and Roger and Denis for your very kind remarks.
 
cheers
 
Pat

The cheapest way is to make them yourself if you have the time.  These can be turned up on a lathe from brass, alluminium or wood rod (stock); or, buy/make one master and cast the remainder of them?
 
If you are willing to buy, have a look at ship model accessories at the many hobby shops/retailers and they stock additional/replacement parts from some of the bigger mass produced kits.  You may find something that looks a bit like the guns you need close to scale made from britannia/white metal.  Not as nice as brass turned barrels but a lot cheaper - but as the saying goes "you gets what yous pays" - Buying cheap will most often mean they will look 'cheap' on the model also unless you put a lot of additional work into them.
 
cheers
 
Pat

May be slow progress Dave, but she is looking great.  Those rope ends look all nice and ship-shape!
 
I made life a little easier with my display base by using two thinner pieces of wood with the first (lower) being the larger (overall) size, then placing a second cut to the inner dimensions of the acrylic on top.  No need for slots etc
 
cheers
 
Pat

Some very fine detail there Greg, will add greatly to the model.  
 
cheers
 
Pat

Now, the photo is post 280 is followed by this one that sits on the starboard side, showing how the rails were dropped before battle. The amount of ropes on deck is amazing, being the tackle and lines for the nets. 
 
I then added 2 pulleys to each boom apart from the front one which will be rigged slightly differently. 

Fig-156 - The complete assembly installed in the finished model - a very interesting exercise, I do enjoy scratch building and particularly the research to try and get things right.  Everything is there for a  reason, and in most cases it is possible to find out exactly what the reason is/was, and researching it these days with the history of the world on tap on the internet, at the press of a button, it can be as much fun as creating the item in the round - for me I like to know what I am recreating, where it came from and why.

That is seriously nice work Jason; she is looking good with her 'teeth' added.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Good morning.

Man...your work is awesome.....
 
Rob

This morning i was able to get the retaining (screws) made for the port side window stops. They are made with the same pins as the round head wood screws, these ones are flat head and the heads are .037" diameter.
 

 

 

 
Michael
 
 

Nice work indeed.  Looking forward to seeing her as she progresses through the rigging fitout.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi folks, I have made some progress on the winches, with the parts now all turned, photoetched etc.  I have managed to put the ironwork (brass) for one of them together but still to add the wooden 'bed'.  The photos show the progress as I went along but still a lot of cleaning up to do.  Most of this is fine metal powder, but a few 'dags' here and there to fix. 
 
The whole assembly is only 15mm long by 11mm high.  The small handwheel was purchased but the rest of the parts including the larger hand wheel, except the tapered drum which I turned, are PE that I drew up and had etched.  The slightly grooved effect n the drum is deliberate as it had grooves for the first turns of the wire to lay up into.  I have styled this after a winch illustrated in Underhill's 'Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier'.
 
The cog wheel is two pieces of .2mm bras with tiny alignment holes which allowed me to solder them together and keep the teeth aligned.  The worm gear is still beyond my skills so I simply used some brass tube (1.5 mm).  The other handwheel is set into a short length of 1.0 mm tube, which is then partially inserted into some small brass square section, to represent the gear box for the drum brake, which is made from thin copper (bends more easily).
 
The small ding in the tapered wire drum is bigger than planned but is intend as a 'flat' to let me drill through as a starting point for the steel wire rope that will be attached.  The halliards (steel wire) were bent to the winch and remained there permanently  with the tension held by the drum brake.  My next problem is to work out how to fit this strongly enough to allow me to create a 'little' tension on the scaled halliards without pulling the winch away from the deck.
 
cheers
 
Pat