GGibson

Impressive, gentlemen!  And a nice looking HMCS St Thomas, as well!  

Another update - I finished the catheads and anchors.  I didn't keep a whole lot of notes on this work during construction and install, so a pretty simple explanation.  First of all, I did not like the Britannia castings of the catheads in the kit.  So, like many others who have built this Bluenose, I scrapped the castings and created my own version.  Not sure if they are totally in scale, but pretty close.  For the pole portion of the catheads, I used a 1/32" brass rod and a small 1/8" square wood strip, sanded and tapered. At first, I bent the rods a bit too low (in that first pic), but before placing them on the ship, I adjusted their height.  I also made a small little "stand" for the rod to sit in on the deck, using a rounded-off dowel cut very short. 

I really had to study and refer to several resources, especially the Bluenose II - Saga of the Great Fishing Schooners by L.B. Jenson, which I have referred to quite often in this build for information.  This time it was to remind myself exactly how the catheads work in relation to the anchors and the windlass.  Very interesting and informative.  On page 55 of the book, Mr. Jenson has drawings of the working anchors and cables in various stages of operation, whether it was anchor positions during normal stowage, when the club anchor (port side) was ready to let go for normal anchoring in harbor, or when the fishing anchor (starboard side) was ready to let go.  From that discussion, it appears that there was actually just the one cathead (davit) on board, and they would shift it from one side to the other depending on need.  For this kit, though, we are putting two catheads in position.  As I said, very interesting.

With all that said, I placed the port side club anchor on the cathead and ran the anchor chain from the anchor, through the hawse pipe, looped it around the windlass a few times, laid a few flakes of chain on the deck (my flakes did not come out awesome), and the remaining chain in the wooden box.  I thought that all came out pretty well.

For the starboard side anchor, the cathead stands empty, with the anchor, wood stock and coiled hemp cable laid on the deck for display.  Under normal stowage, according to Mr. Jenson, this starboard-side fishing anchor would be stowed with the lower fluke lashed to a ringbolt inside the rail with the stock hund outside the rail, nearly vertical against the side (which is pretty much how the port side anchor is secured).

Dories are next.  And, from what I've read of others' build logs regarding the dories, this will no doubt be challenging.  And, with the Thanksgiving holiday approaching, I will be surprised if I get past these before then.  With that said, to my fellow USA modelers, have a safe and enjoyable Thanksgiving holiday weekend.  To all, fair winds and following seas!

Great idea on using the jig, Jon.  Gives it a nice consistency in rope lengths, etc.  Need to remember that! They look sharp.  Well done, sir!

1 hour ago, NavyShooter said:

Now to fit an 8.5 foot model into a 6 foot bed for a 30km drive into downtown without damage....

How do you do it?  You tie Tanic down well. 👍 

A couple updates...  I needed to complete the work on the chain plates before I did too much more on other things.  I mentioned in my previous post that I figured to have some valid reason for not cutting the holes/slots for the chainplates while I was putting in the rails.  And I was kicking myself now for every one of the twenty (20) slots I had to cut into the rails after-the-fact.  Message to all future Bluenose builders... CUT THE CHAINPLATE SLOTS WHEN YOU INSTALL THE RAILS!

OK, enough self-criticism... here's what I was able to accomplish.  I marked the locations of the chainplates on the main rails and the monkey rails based on the plans.  In order to assure that I was drilling the holes on the correct side of the bulwarks and, when drilling the holes in the quarter deck rails, going thru both the monkey rail and main rail, I decided to drill from the underside, from the bottom up, to give myself a better visual of where I was going with the drill bit.  I also was reminded how crucial the placement of the main rails is on top of the bulwark and stanchions, in order to give you the spacing required for these chain plates. 

Anyways, I used a #61 micro drill bit to begin each hole/slot and then, using my 2 largest micro-size precision reamers, I enlarged each of the slots until a "test" brass strip could fit into the hole.  The kit-provided brass strips are 1/64" thick by 1/16" wide.  But, when the tops of the strips are folded over to secure the wire holding the deadeyes, that thickness doubles to 1/32" plus a bit more due to the twisted wire thickness.

As the chain plates were slid into each hole for testing, the paint job on the rails and the hull was taking a beating.  Definitely going to require a lot of touchup.  Again, another reason for doing this cutting sooner. <head slap>

Actually, preparing the chainplates and deadeyes was the smoothest part of this process.  I prepared a small jig, similar to what was done for the pintles and gudgeons, in order to drill the holes in the chainplates per the plans.  My new Proxxon drill press with the X/Y table came in handy once again!  Then, using a pair of hemostat forceps and a vise, I wrapped the thin brass wire provided in the kit around the deadeyes and twisted them. That is what, then, was secured into the tops of each chainplate.

Long story short (I know, too late for that), I was able to place each of the twenty (20) chainplates and deadeyes in their locations with some work.  Drilled holes in the hull at the chainplate hole locations and, using small brass nails with heads on them and a spot of CA glue, secured the nails to the chainplates to simulate bolts.  I then spot-retouched all of the paint job that I had damaged in the process.  I hope they will all look good once I get to the rigging.

Before I get to the anchors and cathead installation, I wanted to do some additional work on the deck.  I was wanting to place some barrels just ahead of the cabin, but wasn't totally sure how to place them.  I was then inspired by the work that John Ruy has done on his Bluenose, as well as looking at the pictures of the old Bluenose on the Nova Scotia Archives website. 

So, I constructed a little rack holding a half-dozen barrels along with a couple other barrels tied to the front of the cabin.  The barrels I used were from Model Shipways, 35/64" x 15/32" (14x12mm), and I think were sized about right.  I also had a slightly bigger alternative, but that sized barrel just looked too big for scale, even for the black ones that are tied to the cabin.  Not perfect, but I think they came out pretty well, and they add nicely to the deck furnishings, as depicted in those old pictures.  Thanks to John for the reminder and the inspiration! 

Now I think it's time for the catheads and anchors work.  Let's see how well this goes... 

14 hours ago, TJM said:

...I decided to start with HMS Flirt. I will be opening a build log for this soon! As I have a full time job, two small kids and other hobbies, progress is likely to be slow at times and come in 'sprints', but that is how it has to be for now...

Welcome, TJM!  Enjoy the benefits of the MSW community.  And, I've had to remind myself many times... This Model Ship World forum is not a competition of who's best or fastest, but simply an awesome forum to share both our struggles and our successes and learn from one another.  Look forward to seeing your HMS Flirt build log!

On 11/7/2023 at 3:22 PM, NavyShooter said:

Of note, this was a picture of the original model a few years back.  You can see that the original was quite detailed, had rigging, and was a favoured spot for at least one gull to hang out.

 

Also, if you zoom in on this link in G Maps, and turn on the satellite imagery, you can see the spot amidst the lily pads where the Titanic model usually floats.

 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/gFegbovZY3Ttc5ne9

Very neat project, Brad!  Thanks for sharing!  I have the OcCre 1:300 scale kit in my shipyard to work on "sometime in my lifetime".  In the meantime, it's fun (and educational and entertaining) to look at others' builds!

And, unlike the very original vessel, it appears from this picture that, no matter how many passengers it carried, your original model didn't sink! 👍Great work by your N.S. team! Will watch the new build with interest!

Lots of interesting options that look nice, but think I still want to wait on a Byrnes! 

I was just at our local ship modelers' club meeting today, and I asked around the room what the guys were using, as most of them are scratch builders, and I heard a series of "Byrnes, Byrnes, Byrnes....." responses. 👍

Good looking out, pre-rigging, John!  Always nice to spot those items now rather than a "how am I going to get that in there now?" moment later!  Already found a few of those on mine as I progress but will do the same check when I get to your point in the build, as well.  Looking forward to watching your rigging success.

Looks really sharp, John!  Great work, sir!

I can probably look back and see, but did you paint or blacken the small brass pieces around the mast?  I'm working on the chain plates now, and the blackening has worked pretty well for them.  Will do the same, I think, when I get to the stage you are at, as well.  Going to take another approach to soldering and do some more practicing.

Anyways, back to your Bluenose... you're about to the rigging stage now, aren't you?  Super cool!  Carry on, John!

4 hours ago, DerekMc said:

I finally have the money to buy a Byrnes table saw. Here's hoping they will be available soon!  

Yep... I'm just waiting on their email reply saying they are back from their vacay! 👍

Thanks for clarifying, Mustafa!  As I said before, it really looks like an awesome planking.  Carry on, sir! 

Planking looks really good, Mustafa.  Congrats on a smooth job!  Curious, though, on your choice of butt joint spacing.  I generally read about recommendations for 3 or 4 plank spacing before repeated butt joints.  Yours looks like only 2.  Does the copper plating that will cover a good part of the hull have an effect on that decision?  Not meant as criticism but genuinely curious as to process, being a new modeler.  I'm enjoying watching your build log! 

Reading all of this with great interest, as I've sent Jim & Donna a message on their website for when they return from their break.  Appreciate all of the recommendations given above... 👍

On 8/16/2023 at 3:03 PM, Bob Cleek said:

...If I were you, which I'm not, I'd save my money until I could afford to buy a Byrnes Model Machines table saw... They are presently on vacation but are supposed to return the end of this month.

I have sent Jim & Donna an email/message on their website, anxiously waiting for them to return from their time off.  👍👍

Excellent work, Wizard!  Never really thought about a name plate for my first few ships.  Great idea! 

Great detailed (and tiny!) work...!

It's going to be HUGE!  Will watch with great interest. 

2 hours ago, John Ruy said:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flag_of_Nova_Scotia#:~:text=The flag of Nova Scotia,the province's coat of arms.

Adopted in 1929 after a royal warrant was issued, it has been the flag of the province since January 19 of that year.

 

I will probably fly this flag as well. 😎
 

 

John - Here's some info in L.B. Jenson's Bluenose II - Saga of the Great Fishing Schooners on page 43 regarding ensigns, flags and masthead pennants.  I am posting a picture of the page, but the typeset is difficult to read in the book, let alone with my poor photography skills, so I'll type here what is said about each item, as well.

Upper Left - Canadian Blue Ensign to 1965 - This ensign only could be flown under the authority of a Canadian Government warranty.  Worn by Canadian merchant ships commanded by Naval Reserve Officers & with a percentage of Reservist crew. This was worn by Bluenose II.

Middle Left - National Flag of Canada from 1965 - This ensign has been worn by Bluenose II and all other Canadian merchant ships since February 1965. Red on white.

Lower Left - The Flag of Nova Scotia - Worn on the Stbd. spreader. Blue cross on white. Red badge on gold.

Center Top - Name Flag - 7 feet by 30 feet (approx.)

Center Middle - The Oland House Flag - Gold - griffon, rivers and sails. Black - background of griffon, balls & hull.  Blue - flags on ship.  In accordance with usual maritime custom, schooners wore the house flags of their companies.

Center Bottom - Nova Scotia Schooner Association - blue cross, red vessel.  This pennant was presented by the Association and Bluenose II was designated "Queen of the Nova Scotia Schooner Association Fleet"

Very Center Bottom - Courtesy Flags - It is the custom among merchant ships when entering a foreign port to fly the colours of that country at the fore masthead, and, when leaving, similarly to fly the colours of the port to which they are immediately bound.

Upper Right - The Canadian Ten Cent Silver Coin, first minted 1st January 1937

Lower Right - The Canadian Fifty Cent Bluenose stamp, blue, 6th January, 1929.

24 minutes ago, John Ruy said:

Now that you brought it up I’ll have to…

Sorry, John!  I'll be quiet now... 🤣🤣

I have trouble soldering something at 7.64", let alone 7/64"...  Speaking of the flag halliard, though, did you find a resource for a Canadian Red Ensign flag, or are you making your own?

Continuing to look awesome, John! Totally envious..! Great work!  I'll get there... eventually.

Thanks, John! Plenty of great build logs to refer to, as well, including your current progress! 👍

And, yes, some great info/drawings on shrouds and rigging in the book.  Will definitely be researching more.

I mentioned working on anchors and cathead next, but I still need to put the chainplates in, so better do that before I knock the crap out of a cathead while drilling for the brass strip slots.  I'm sure I had a valid reason for waiting until now to do these chainplates and deadeyes... <eyeroll>

A small update, but an update, nonetheless... Time to get the windlass and other machinery placed on the deck.  While everything was pretty straight-forward, it was definitely tedious, small-scale work.  First thing I needed to do, though, as a pretty new ship modeler who had no real nautical experience, I needed to familiarize myself with the total operation of the windlass, how it affects the anchoring, hoisting the sails, hoisting cargo, etc.

As I began this Bluenose build, another local builder whom I had met at a KC-area club meeting provided me with several books from his library.  One of those was Bluenose II - Saga of the Great Fishing Schooners by L.B. Jenson.  Others here on MSW have mentioned this book in some of their posts.  In this book, the author discusses details of not only the Bluenose II, but the original Bluenose 1921.  On pages 54-55 of the book, he has descriptions and drawings of the windlass and associated machinery, and the working anchors and cables.  Very interesting and informative! (My apologies for any blurry photo shots.)

All of the kit-provided cast metal pieces were in pretty good shape.  Just needed some cleaning.  The chain whelp side of the windlass barrel was lined with 1/64" brass strips using CA glue.  The wood whelp side of the windlass was a little more tricky, as it was fitted with some very small pieces of 1/16" & 3/32" square strips, and it took a few tries to get something that looked decent enough to call good.  The counter shaft assembly and the other winch machinery, including the arch that will make up the jumbo jib boom crutch, all came together pretty well.  I also added the brake beam to the top of the bowsprit and added, as best I could, a thin brass rod from the brake beam down to the quadrants attached to the windlass barrel.  Before it got too tight and busy on the deck for me to do it, I also added the claw chain stopper to the port side of the samson post, as was shown in Mr. Jenson's book.

In order to simulate the gear chain on the windlass, I opted to not take any jewelry from my wife's jewelry box... I'M JOKING!... and I purchased some of the Mantua black chain that Model Expo had advertised on their website.  This chain is approximately 24 links/inch.  In reading what would be appropriate size chain for a 1:64 scale project like the Bluenose, I saw somewhere in the 22-24 links per inch range.  The chain is definitely tiny, but didn't want the chain to look oversized on the deck, as I will also use this chain for the anchors and a display of a few flakes on the deck and in the chain box.  Hopefully, it will look good.

So... working on the anchors is probably the next thing on my Bluenose to-do list.  Again, the aforementioned book by Mr. Jenson, on page 55, discusses working anchors and cables, their normal stowage positions, and how the cathead is shifted from port to starboard, depending on whether the club anchor or fishing anchor is prepared to be let go.  Again, very interesting and informative. 

MicroMark or another similar precision tool company may have what you are looking for.   Maybe a Harbor Freight close to where you live?

Hi Barbara!  When you say "portable drill", are you referring to something like a pin vise, that you would manually use with small micro bits of 0.05"/1.3mm? Or are you looking for a power tool drill, still using micro bits?  I recently purchased a Proxxon TBM115 bench drill press, and I am loving it.