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ERS Rich
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Everything posted by ERS Rich
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“Clinker” happening means the width of the plank needs to be reduced, or tapered, towards the stem. The taper starts about the third bulkhead aft of the stem, the plank width will end half the width or less at the stem. At first you can get away with not doing it, it will catch up to you. Find one of the many postings on this site to see how to do it. My Constitution build log talks about it. Nice work, so far, good luck.- 51 replies
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Keep going! Sand that wood filler until it is smooth and feathered in. When filling seams feel free to mask off each side so extra filler is on the tape. Makes the sanding job easy. Consider the lower hull needs to be completely smooth, no humps or bumps, or “stair steps” between planks. Look into how to use a card file. Good luck.
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Howdy! Good luck with your projects!
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Good point about hardwood, I was thinking about pine. The walnut strips can be grainy, shellac may reduce it, but it will probably look good unsealed. If you go that way interested in seeing how it looks. I’ve never used the Walnut strips to plank, did not want to deal with the brittleness, I think some soak them which helps with the knife cuts, cut with the grain rather than against. Check out Mr Hobby Mr Metal Primer, I’ve brushed it on metal cannon barrels and painted with Vallejo acrylic paint. Paasche Talon is my go to brush, a little less expensive than an Iwata. Most common airbrush problems are due to cleanliness or paint not thin enough. Vallejo air solves the second problem, the first is knowing how to disassemble and clean the brush. Anyway now I always go with blackening because you skip the priming step. Nice talking about this stuff, I’ll hang back and see what happens.
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One more thing, the way you soaked and clamped the bulwark around the jar is spot on. The same can be done with hull planks. Cheers
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Late to the party. Your ship looks good. The clinkers happen when the planks at the stem have not been tapered enough and are pulled towards the keel to fit. It’s ok. Look into using small files to shape wood. Get round, half round and flat. More precise than sanding, and faster. Fill in the clinker gaps with sandable wood glue and shape the hull with the files. Paint. Sealing the wood is a must. Shellac works well and dries fast. Make up some board samples, try one coat of shellac, then paint. Two coats shellac then paint. The shellac coats slowly fill in the grain. Yes, the thin airbrush coats show the grain nicely. You are doing good work. Keep going. In the end hull imperfections are practically unnoticeable when the ship is mounted or on the stand. Remember if it looks good from a foot away it’s ok. The rigging on this model dominates, most people will notice and be impressed with the rigging and the deck. Make choices to your taste. Your family and friends are not going to say your shade of Ochre is off. Good luck. -Rich
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Planking disaster
ERS Rich replied to sgrez's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Consider a lot of putty means painting the hull. The putty texture will not match wood grain. This means sealing the wood, prime, then paint. Good luck, -Rich -
Planking disaster
ERS Rich replied to sgrez's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Good job so far. Do you want to take it to the next level, beyond the instructions? Start tapering the plank widths. Consider planking 4 bulkheads at a time - it’s easier. Consult the How to Plank references here on MSW. Get into plank tapering. Good luck! -Rich -
Hi, Nice effort and glad that the work continues. Some thoughts hope they help. As you know walnut is brittle, rather than a knife use a chisel. As you found the grain makes the knife waver during the draw. You need a very sharp chisel. I use a 1” bench chisel. Mark the plank with say a line along its length. Put the walnut on a block of wood and put the chisel on the line and press down to make the cut. Do you understand wood grain? How to make relief cuts? Checkout Youtube. Noticed in the planking post something about full length planks - single plank from bow to stern. It’s harder this way. Try planks that span 4 bulkheads - it’s easier to taper. Getting the correct taper on a full length plank is very difficult and if you make a mistake at the end - bummer. Also smaller walnet planks would be easier to work. Do you have small files? They make the job evening up the gunport openings easier. And the paint. Is the wood sealed before painting? Pine wood stain or better shellac are good choices. Good luck, -Rich
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An example of the normal difference between the Plans, the ideal, and what happens in the field…. Good luck with your project.
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Worst Planking Job Ever
ERS Rich replied to rhephner's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The “clinkering” (bulges?) are caused by pulling the plank end down towards the keel to get it under the neighbor above. Instead, mark where the plank overlays its neighbor above and taper the plank. You can’t bend a plank down towards the keel. You can only lay a plank straight down on a bulkhead, slide it up slightly to press against the installed plank above, or twist a plank to say run up the stern. Very little force should be needed to install. Make sure a plank is properly shaped before installing, then it will be easy to install. Ideally if properly shaped there will be no gaps. If a lot of gap filling and sanding is needed, something is wrong, look at the books and videos, study the techniques, and find out what works for you. Good luck! -
Proportional dividers, use plank belts, span 3-4 bulkheads at a time, measure at each bulkhead, mark plank at each bulkhead, remove waste with a plane, lightly sand. Be willing to discard plank, and start over if it doesn’t work out. Good luck!
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Planking
ERS Rich replied to sgrez's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Notice this plank (wale) is probably the same width from bow to stern, and probably easiest to install. Planks from the wale above probably are not tapered (width reduced) amidships, and at the stern; and probably are towards the bow. Think of a picture frame when considering planking from the Wale to the Keel. This first plank is the top of the frame, the Keel the lower frame, and the stem and stern post the sides. The skill is understanding where the lower planks need to be tapered (width reduced), and doing it. There are many postings in this site, and books have been written on how to do this. From my experience AL kit instructions do not show this. Hence builders of these kits, usually beginners, may not get the results they imagine. Good luck. -
Never done this, planking around the fantail is a challenge. Curves like this are easier with thinner planks. Good luck.
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Welcome, good luck with your projects.
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Look into the concept of tapering (reducing plank width) and planking using the belt concept. Learning opportunities to increase the skill set. Somewhere on this site is a planking guide for different situations.
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Try soaking the planks longer, place the end of the plank on a jar of water. Try 5, 10, 15 minutes or longer. If the wood swells, soak less, if not soak more. Pine resin will inhibit water absorption. My plank bender came with a wooden jig. Place the plank in the jig, press down with the iron to form the plank along the jig. The plank will probably partially spring back, so the process may need to be repeated. There are many ways to do this job. Find what works for you. The electric bender can work, but it’s time consuming. For mass production, I’ll soak 10 planks, end in a jar, overnight, then use clothes pins to hold them around a round plastic container. Let them dry overnight. Also swelling for me, hasn’t been an issue. Sometimes the grain swells, if so, let the wood dry completely, give it a light sand. Haven’t had a problem with swelling changing the plank dimensions. Good luck with it. -Rich
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Yes, tedious….
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Paul, is a great teacher, is he still around?
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Give it a break. Once complete, and the fine model is being displayed for your family and friends, will any of them say the Wildcats should be Hellcats, and the Measure should be 21 not 11? No builder “has” to do anything, it’s entirely up to them. Enjoy your project and hope you get well soon, -Rich
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Started with sharpening stones. Being impatient moved to a Tormek wet grinding system. Found it to be overkill for model ship building. Thanks, -Rich
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Build it as you like….
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Nice tools! Do we need to get into the importance of sharpening? How do you do it? -Rich
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That home made jig is beautiful. I’ve tried every plank holder and other labor saving tool by Amati, etc. They all disappointed in one way or another and sit in a drawer. Saw the upside down plane idea in a furniture making class. Working these small pieces of wood seems easiest with basic hand tools. Sometimes there are smaller versions. Veritas sold a set of mini planes, etc. Which are interesting. Are they still around? -Rich
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