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ERS Rich
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An example of the normal difference between the Plans, the ideal, and what happens in the field…. Good luck with your project.- 6 replies
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- Pillsbury
- Clemson-class
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Worst Planking Job Ever
ERS Rich replied to rhephner's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The “clinkering” (bulges?) are caused by pulling the plank end down towards the keel to get it under the neighbor above. Instead, mark where the plank overlays its neighbor above and taper the plank. You can’t bend a plank down towards the keel. You can only lay a plank straight down on a bulkhead, slide it up slightly to press against the installed plank above, or twist a plank to say run up the stern. Very little force should be needed to install. Make sure a plank is properly shaped before installing, then it will be easy to install. Ideally if properly shaped there will be no gaps. If a lot of gap filling and sanding is needed, something is wrong, look at the books and videos, study the techniques, and find out what works for you. Good luck! -
Proportional dividers, use plank belts, span 3-4 bulkheads at a time, measure at each bulkhead, mark plank at each bulkhead, remove waste with a plane, lightly sand. Be willing to discard plank, and start over if it doesn’t work out. Good luck!
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Planking
ERS Rich replied to sgrez's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Notice this plank (wale) is probably the same width from bow to stern, and probably easiest to install. Planks from the wale above probably are not tapered (width reduced) amidships, and at the stern; and probably are towards the bow. Think of a picture frame when considering planking from the Wale to the Keel. This first plank is the top of the frame, the Keel the lower frame, and the stem and stern post the sides. The skill is understanding where the lower planks need to be tapered (width reduced), and doing it. There are many postings in this site, and books have been written on how to do this. From my experience AL kit instructions do not show this. Hence builders of these kits, usually beginners, may not get the results they imagine. Good luck. -
Never done this, planking around the fantail is a challenge. Curves like this are easier with thinner planks. Good luck.
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Welcome, good luck with your projects.
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Look into the concept of tapering (reducing plank width) and planking using the belt concept. Learning opportunities to increase the skill set. Somewhere on this site is a planking guide for different situations.
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Try soaking the planks longer, place the end of the plank on a jar of water. Try 5, 10, 15 minutes or longer. If the wood swells, soak less, if not soak more. Pine resin will inhibit water absorption. My plank bender came with a wooden jig. Place the plank in the jig, press down with the iron to form the plank along the jig. The plank will probably partially spring back, so the process may need to be repeated. There are many ways to do this job. Find what works for you. The electric bender can work, but it’s time consuming. For mass production, I’ll soak 10 planks, end in a jar, overnight, then use clothes pins to hold them around a round plastic container. Let them dry overnight. Also swelling for me, hasn’t been an issue. Sometimes the grain swells, if so, let the wood dry completely, give it a light sand. Haven’t had a problem with swelling changing the plank dimensions. Good luck with it. -Rich
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Yes, tedious….
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Paul, is a great teacher, is he still around?
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Give it a break. Once complete, and the fine model is being displayed for your family and friends, will any of them say the Wildcats should be Hellcats, and the Measure should be 21 not 11? No builder “has” to do anything, it’s entirely up to them. Enjoy your project and hope you get well soon, -Rich
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- Enterprise
- Trumpeter
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Started with sharpening stones. Being impatient moved to a Tormek wet grinding system. Found it to be overkill for model ship building. Thanks, -Rich
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Build it as you like….
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Nice tools! Do we need to get into the importance of sharpening? How do you do it? -Rich
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That home made jig is beautiful. I’ve tried every plank holder and other labor saving tool by Amati, etc. They all disappointed in one way or another and sit in a drawer. Saw the upside down plane idea in a furniture making class. Working these small pieces of wood seems easiest with basic hand tools. Sometimes there are smaller versions. Veritas sold a set of mini planes, etc. Which are interesting. Are they still around? -Rich
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Put that plane upside down in a vice, mark the line on a plank, hold the plank with thumb and middle finger to keep the plank perpendicular to the blade, run the plank past the blade, with the first finger applying downward pressure and remove waste. Or hold left hand thumb middle and forefinger on the plane body, before the blade, use right hand to pull plank across blade. Be careful, good luck, see my Constitution build log for more info. -Rich
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Hi, Cut the sills and lintels slightly longer than needed, Then chisel, file, or sand the angle in the ends. Each piece needs to be custom fitted. After a while, with practice, the angle cuts will get easier. Glue will fill any tiny gaps. Good luck. -Rich
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Tape: Tamiya Sealer: Shellac, Rattle Can, or brush Stain: Oil Base, Brudh Paint: Vallejo - Airbrush
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I Have an Itch to Scratch
ERS Rich replied to SaltyScot's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Amplifying what some others have said, start the project and see what you need. And consider the tasks to produce the materials. Are you going to make your strip wood or buy it? Over time there is the buying expense, and will you be able to buy what you need? If you make it, you will need to safely cut thin strips of wood. A machine is an option. Hand tools are available but time consuming. Lie Nielson makes a strip thickness tool. Likewise with holes. How will you drill hundreds of small holes? Hand tools are available. Or Foredom makes precision hand pieces and a drill press - make a jig and you’re on your way. I’d go cheap, only buy what you need, you may get tired of it, or something in your life may change. Beware of buying sets, or packages with accessories that may rarely or never used. Good luck! -
Also, file a small flat area around each hole, I like to add a small dab of glue. Helps minimize damage later, after knocking the yard while doing the rigging.
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A beauty, congrats!
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Good morning! Welcome, happy to have you aboard. Good luck with your projects. -Rich
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Hi, To get a tight fit, look up on the web the concept of scribing. Carpenters scribe to get a perfect fit between two pieces of wood, for example cabinet trim and a wall.
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Your rails have a great shape.
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My preference is rails, then supports
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