ERS Rich

Belt C Complete - Starboard Side Completed Belt C on the starboard side. Satisfied with the run of the planking and was able to compensate for the Belt B errors with the proportional dividers. I’m going to install Belt D to complete the starboard side planking. The task is becoming routine.

Switching to shaping planks with the Oscillating Spindle Sander.

Belt C Installation - Starboard Side As before, use the plan to transfer the location of the bottom of Belt C, in relation to the bottom of the wale, to each bulkhead, the stem, and stern post. Picture 2 tries to show the pencil marks on the bulkheads. On my model the widest part of Belt C is bulkhead F. Belt width is less on all other bulkheads. Belt C will be 9 planks wide along the entire length. An ongoing problem has been my tendency to leave the planks going into the stem and stern post rabbets a little wide. Also the mark for the bottom of Belt B at bulkhead P was off, hence a slight up wave at P, noticed this after about strake 6 in Belt B, by this time it was too late to compensate - Picture 3. Actually don’t mind making and fixing the mistakes - for the experience. Especially when they will not effect the appearance of the model. After all the work so far, feel confident that I can make a plank into any shape required. Given that the belt is widest in one location, bulkhead F, even wider than bulkhead P, there will be enough width to compensate for the wave. Lets see how it goes with Belt C.

Yes there is a wave...because I lost focus and failed to reduce the width on the first few plank aft ends after rounding the corner from the counter to the stern post. And it looks like a mis-mark at bulkhead P. Working fast.... Let’s see if I can compensate for the errors when installing belt C.

Belt B Installation - Starboard Side Starboard Side Belt B just about complete.

Forming the Forward Planks Planks along the forward end to the stem need to be formed with a bend and twist, just as the planks on the aft end to the stern. Planks were first bent into a curve with the bow cedar form. Picture 1 shows the form and a handful of planks after forming. A plank is then given a short soak, and steamed to reduce the moisture. Next the hull itself is used as a form by clamping the pliable plank along the forward end, and allowed to dry thus establishing the twist, Picture 2. The forward end of the plank is tapered and set in the rabbet. Later, when dry, this plank will be cut to length and tapered.

Amongst all this scuttlebutt.....only 1 picture of a recently built model....expressing an idea is not the same as successful execution.....

Hello JS, Using the guide from Mr Hunt as well. It’s fielders choice here, went with the dividers because have a pair purchased years ago, have not had a problem with tightness. As you say. marked the plank width at each bulkhead. Prefer removing the material with an upside down hand plane in a vise, it’s like a mini joiner. Found the difficulty with this is it’s easy for the cut to become a bevel along the tapered edge rather then a right angle. I use a sanding block to square the edge to a right angle. Mr. Hunt’s method is good. I have the whole set, and have built the Armed Virginia sloop and Pride of Baltimore with them. I’m deviating from the guide by doing all the hull planking before the deck. Plan is paint for the hull and bulkheads. Deck will be pine stain. I don’t like the brown/black stain for the deck. I’m going to prime with a light coat of rattle can shellac for an initial seal, take care of imperfections, a light rub down with steel wool, then airbrush, with an Iwata RG-3L HVLP mini gun, a coat or two of artist acrylic gesso. Artists use gesso to prime canvas. Since I have a Caldercraft Snake kit with copper plates....will paint the copper, again with the minigun, Tamiya acrylic. The advantage of the mini gun is it lays down a high volume of paint - a wet coat yielding a smooth finish. See Paul Budzik on Youtube. Thanks for getting in touch!

Looks first rate to me, nice work, Bradley

Belt A Installation - Starboard Side Belt A consists of about 90 planks, 45 per side. As before for the Wales, used the plan to mark the belt widths on the bulkheads. The max plank width is 1/8”, the kit given stock is slightly over sized so needed to rip it down to 1/8”. As with the Wales full width planks are used from bulkheads E through M. A construction paper pattern was made of the stem curve, from the billet holding the stem piece. The pattern was used to mark the belt width on the stem. Again the proportional dividers were used to mark the planks for tapering. The wood template for the bow curve (made earlier) was used to bend the bow and stem planks after a soak. An electric steam kettle was used as a source of steam to bend the slight curves in the planks coming off amidships. A smooth run amidships is easy. Looking for “sameness” from port to starboard sides at the bow and stern. Pretty close at the bow, a little off at the stern. For me I need to pay attention to tapered plank width, have a tendency to leave them over wide. Onward to Belt B, interesting as will be covering the remainder of the counter, and rounding the corner to the Sternpost.

Hello GuntherMT! Yes, quite a few kits to build.....collected for quite a few years while in corporate.... Here’s the other half...... Constitution may be the last plank on frame, at least for awhile. It’s a colossus of planking. Completed Belt A this week, port and starboard together are about 90 planks, this week it took from Tuesday to Friday to complete the Port side. Thinking, ok I know how to plank, so going forward go with solid hull, which allows more time for topside work. Bluejacket Maine and Olympia are on my mind.....though they appear to be a colossus of photo etch..... Also have a vintage Newsboy kit....interesting as it is schooner rigged with a square rigged foremast. Stay tuned and thanks for checking in....

Thanks KLB.....going forward, after many projects, may no longer build plank on frame and stick to solid hulls....planking is just too time consuming and takes away from fitting out the deck, masting, and rigging. Scratch building? To each his own. Not sure if I’ll be a scratch builder. In my imagination I’m operating a ship yard that constructs ships. Shipyards take components made by others and assemble ships. That’s why I like kits. For me taking a single piece of wood, say for the stem, cutting it up into little components, then glueing it back together, is a head scratcher. Why not make the stem out of a single piece of wood and scribe and color lines for the components? Would an observer be able to tell the difference? I have a cabinetmaker/furniture makers bias, why spend time on something that either isn’t visible or can be done a faster way. It’s all good, everyone is different, as it should be. Cheers

Found you project and decided to follow along..... What a unique look....looking forward to your posts....thanks.

Hello, like this ship and decided to follow along....thanks....

Finished up the wales and did some smoothing.... Started smoothing with sandpaper....it’s seductive....however the long flat file does the best job and it’s faster.... Gearing up to plank the rest of the hull...... In the back of my mind is stopping and pausing Constitution on 5/31.....would rather build 2 at the same time...start Amati Vanguard, get it to the same stage as Constitution and complete both in parallel. Planking simply takes too much time. Or stop sailing ship construction and move on to one of the Great White Fleet battleship kits I have from Bluejacket. We’ll see.....

Just found this and decided to follow along....feel free to send a message if you have a question...

Just a couple of shots of a stern plank, with the twist and bend.....

Congrats Bro! A pleasing rendition of aGrand Banks Dory. Certainly your next project will be even better after incorporating your experience! Cheers

blazing a path for others to follow....thanks

You got through it. Like the Tung Oil. Looking at the work, may I suggest taking a look at using a wood file to clean up the board ends, rather than sand paper. Gives tighter control and crisper edges than sandpaper. Next one will be even better. Cheers!

Welcome aboard! Cheers!

Welcome aboard! Looking forward to seeing more of your work.

Welcome! Being from Norristown, now living in Massachusetts, please value your ability to get a good cheesesteak hoagie and Italian pizza. Philly has the best anywhere and I really miss it. My advice is to build something with one mast square rigged, then two....checkout Model Expo Armed Virginia Sloop....if you can swing it get the practicum from Robert E Hunt for the Armed Virginia Sloop, does a good job of leading the student through the rigging. Please feel free to contact me if you need a hand.

A nice looking model. Most significant is you got through it to completion! The next one will be even better. All the best and if you need a hand, please let me know.

Take a look at Neolube....it’s alcohol based so dries almost instantly....it’s very thin, graphite colloidals in alcohol, and inexpensive. Available from Micromark. Brushes on, no need for soaking, less mess. Just checked price, maybe not inexpensive but competitive with Casey gun blueing products. Non hazardous waste, is a big benefit for me....