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bobandlucy

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Everything posted by bobandlucy

  1. Doing some things a bit out of order with consideration (I hope), to suit my mood. . . Added the first deck buildings and then the doors. The fit of all doors was loose, so I added a backer board, which is visible through the cracks. If I were to do over (which I'm not) I would completely fill the openings with a backer painted black. I used plastic door screen material instead of the acetate sheeting for the wire-glass door windows. For the double doors, I altered the provided hinges by first bending them around a brass rod, then glued a piece of the rod to the hinge. I drilled new holes in the hinges, and cut off the excess hinge material, thus reducing the size of the hinges. Admittedly, they look a little rough, but are not as huge as the hinges as supplied. I made up the paddlewheel supports and fitted the wheel, not gluing it in, in case I need to remove it temporarily for reasons I can't foresee as yet. Installed the rudders. Getting close to installing the spiral staircases, which ought to be interesting because they did not turn out to have equal heights. . . I may have to accept a less than perfect install. Due to the curvature of the lower deck (which appears to be an intentional feature), I will need to add some closure strips at the base of the buildings and where the buildings meet the second deck (not glued on yet), but am wary of using kit-suppled material for that, as I may run out- so I am looking to order some walnut or sapelli somewhere on-line. So far, I have only found a good source from Modeler's Central- I have ordered stuff from them before, but shipping takes so long from Australia. . .
  2. Working on the spiral staircases. My first is not perfect, and I have yet to fit the hand rails. The posts are not perfectly vertical near the top. . . The disposable pepper shaker happened to be the exact size needed for wet-bending.
  3. I have a new puppy in the house, as Lucy has passed- so things are going very slowly. The hobby room is not suitable, so I am restricted to things I can do on the coffee table in living room, during nap times. I finished the paddlewheels! Endless paint touchup but I called it done today. Unfortunately, one of the boards supplied for the wheels was 1mm narrower than the other two, and I had no appropriate scrap, so I used it in four places- spaced out evenly. I don't think most would notice.
  4. Bob, no apologies necessary. Hey, I just put Merseyside together with Jerry and the Pacemaker's "Ferry Cross the Mersey" song. I love that one. Bob
  5. Bob, I know that the lower set of holes for the chimney are covered from the bottom as the manual shows, to create a recess for mounting. The holes are still misaligned, though. Looking through your log again was time well spent. Looks really good!
  6. My cat is not allowed in the hobby room! I like that drill press you've got. It looks like it can be used for milling operations as well. bob
  7. Thanks again, Bob. I reviewed your log, and I see that you do have the top staterooms oriented correctly. I will have to ignore the notches/tabs from the third deck upwards, and go by the plans. . . Below you can see the forward slant of the smoke stacks. I looks to me that the alignment of the second and third decks is correct, so I will correct the second deck holes to allow a vertical installation of the stacks. For today, though, I am going to continue with the paddlewheel painting. It is just mindless enough work for right now. I'll get back to the dimensional problems a bit later.
  8. Thanks, Bob. I do appreciate your time in answering. Regarding the top staterooms. One end has a single centered door, with one small window on each side of the door. The other end has a three-panel "wrap-around" window each side. The instruction photos clearly show the centered door towards the bow, which is how it it placed in my photo above. If I reverse the staterooms end-to-end, the overhangs are correct according to the large plan (photo below). I could install it this way, which is what I think you are saying you did, or relocate the notches, or remove the tabs. Anyway, this will give me the chance to infill the planking at the notches, as I for the second time cut when I should have left in. The chimneys I was referring to are the smoke stacks (large stacks in the manual) coming from the boiler room, not the steam vents towards the stern, although I see your point about those. In any case, the plan shows both sets as vertical. As I have already planked all the decks, I will have to deal with the angled holes for the hog chains (thanks, Cathead) and try not to mess up the planking too much. On the plus side, I did my first airbrushing today, red on the metal paddlewheels. . . I'm painting the black by hand, slowly.
  9. Dry-fitting the decks and structures. The topmost deck (roof of the top staterooms) is way out according to the plans. It is supposed to overhang the staterooms considerably on the bow end. The mounting notches on deck and staterooms are out by 1/2 inch or more- I'll have to figure it out. The holes for the chimney stacks are also incorrect and would result in the chimneys being at a severe slant. I had been impressed with the accuracy of the laser-cut parts. To me this kind of inaccuracy is inexcusable. I spent most of yesterday studying the plans and instructions and cannot attribute these problems to anything I may have done incorrectly. However, I will recover. I'll have to remove some finished planking. . . Likely to slow or stop progress for awhile as I prepare for possible evacuation due to the fire.
  10. In the hope that this might be useful to someone also building this model: the bending shown above was very successful. I had boiled the end pieces for 20 minutes (one at a time) before clamping in place as shown. I let it sit until this morning, and glued on one end. The shaping was precise and I used only finger pressure until the glue set. One thing I have learned is to figure out the clamping arrangement before actually sitting down and doing. . . Also, I have found through experimentation that the results of a prolonged drying time are far better than shorter, or rushing even more by using a hair drier. When I released the piece this morning, there was no spring-back at all. It looked as if it was already glued in place.
  11. Still kind of jumping around here as I wait for paint. Today I did the rough assembly of the second deck staterooms. I managed to wet-bend the two plywood round end walls without breaking either one!
  12. I've been kind of becalmed by indecision regarding painting. I have purchased an airbrush and compressor, plus some accessories. At the hobby shop I bought some Tamiya paints, but have read here since that these paints might not be suitable for wood. I do not want to obscure the lines of planking on the buildings. Today I ordered some marine colors of pre-thinned paint from USA Airbrush, as recommended by moderator Kurt in another log. I also have some Stynylrez primer in white and gray. I hope that product is suitable, as I read somewhere that it would not obscure details. What is your experience with these products? In order to keep on without causing too much extra masking, I started planking the second deck in the herringbone pattern.
  13. I'm interested! Using your own home-grown wood is a really appealing idea (one that I can't use, unfortunately). A picture or two or trees on your property would be a great addition to this log, in my opinion. Bob
  14. I made the ventilation grilles. I haven't attached them yet as I'm still thinking about painting scheme. The instructions called for drilling 1mm dia. holes for the bars, which results in a very loose fit. I instead drilled holes slightly smaller than the pins, using a drill press. I then used the first grille as a template for the rest. They came out pretty good, and are uniform in appearance. No glue required, because of the press fit, and because the grilles will be fully enclosed with the second deck installed. Started on the boiler room doors. The instructions call for planking the doors with the same basswood as for the deck and building walls, yet the pictures in the manual show much narrower plank width. I ending up cutting them in half lengthwise. I think it's going to be the same for the door framing, as the wood that is called out is so wide that half the planking is obscured. I made a mistake and cut out the deck planking at the two hull mounting tabs, should have done so only at the building mounting tabs. Scabbed in pieces of planking. Does not look great. The one towards the stern is within a building, so no biggie, but the one at the bow is kind of an eyesore. . . There are some deck features that go in that area, so I will wait to make a decision on more corrective work.
  15. I love the rigging! I intend to construct this model next- and I will be looking to copy some of your details. . . Bob
  16. Stunning model. You are very talented and from your notes I see a person with a big heart. Bob
  17. Mark Twain is watching as I build this model. The hull planking is almost complete. I need to spile (?) two pieces at the bow tomorrow. I have done some light sanding and applied some filler in a few areas. I'm going to paint the hull white. This thing feels as solid as a rock, I bet I could stand on it.
  18. Like everyone building this model, I found that the stem post would not fit as supplied. I took a Dremel tool to it and reshaped the inside curve. I then refined the bow to provide a neat groove for the post. My reshaping resulted in a mismatch between the post and the keel piece. I glued two pieces of walnut planking scrap to the outside curve of the post, which corrected the mismatch. The stem post should really have rabbets cut to accept the side planking ends (I haven't seen that anyone has done this on other logs for this model). But this is a tough little piece of wood, and I don't think I can do it neatly. I think I will leave the side planks a little long, and then trim to the line of the bulkheads at the groove before installing the stem post.
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