bobandlucy

In yet another diversion, I started the ships' boats. Like the rounded portion of the water closets, these are shaped from solid wood assemblies made by gluing strips together, then carved/sanded to finish. Fun! I like having these little side projects to do while sorting out larger issues. First one is not perfect, but will do.

Gary, it looks like the HL parts list will be re-done, hopefully not based on my input alone, as I might not have caught everything. . . I fully expect to have to make additional parts request(s). As long as I'm not ignored or slow-tracked, I'm fine with that. I do not want to deter you from trying this kit. I would not say that planking the HL is more difficult than the lobster smack, and for myself I want to complete the series for the instructional value. This one has a little work with card stock, more complex shaping of wood, and more extensive rigging. It's hard for me to see past this kit right now, but I'm sure I will feel more confident in investing in something complex using something other than basswood as the predominate material.

Thanks, Grant. I did kick this upstairs and got an almost immediate response from the ME President. Looks like I will get the missing parts soon, and that the parts list will be edited accordingly. Maybe ME's process will be improved also. I have only to add the hull rub rails and the hull will be ready for priming. I am also working on the lower portion of the paddle-box assemblies. Although probably not necessary, I lightly broke all the edges of the rims and spokes- it does feel better in the hand, although the work may not show when painted. When ready, I will prime the hull and paddle-boxes at the same time.

I cut the gun ports out and added the stops to the openings. A 12 inch-long strip was supplied for the stops, which was not enough, but I found some leftover material from another model and used it to finish. Taking a razor saw to the model was a little nerve-wracking, but got through it OK! Added the hawse hole metal and the port holes, which I flattened as suggested. I decided a while ago to request the inner keel strips from ME, which were supplied in the thickness indicated in the parts list, which differed from the thickness given in the instruction manual. I used some other material which I had, but after all I did not get what I had paid for. I took care to describe the discrepancy, and received an email from the parts dept. asking me to use the proper form, which I had never noticed, in the future. I took quite a while, but eventually I was mailed the incorrect parts. Fortunately the parts can be used in another area where the kit was short on material. During this time I found that the outer keel material, also used in other places, was not on the parts list at all. I used some walnut left over from the riverboat model, but decided that it was time to reconcile the manual with the parts list (I did my initial inventory using only the parts list) and found seven more instances of missing parts either not included in the parts list or not supplied in the correct quantities, etc. I used the correct Form. Parts emailed me asking if I was wanting to purchase these items. I said no, and wrote an expanded explanation with part and page numbers from the manual for each part. No response yet. Kit designer David A. does a good job of identifying optional features for which one might have to obtain material on ones own. I am quite clear that if the manual refers to a part with a specific model number, and that part is not optional, it should have been included in the parts list and material provided as part of the kit. It is my understanding that ME develops the parts list from the manual written by the designer. Sorry for my long-windedness. I find no fault with the kit design and am really enjoying building it. I chalk this all up to this being a new kit, and that there is a new parts dept. guy. . . I will buy the parts if I have to in order to finish the project, but. . . Update 4-23-22 Just wanted to take a moment to say that Model Expo has sent me the missing parts I had identified. In addition, they have initiated on their own a new mailing of additional parts missing, identified in-house. I must have missed them in my inventory. I have spent a great deal of time in cross-checking, but this is still relatively new to me. It has been a difficult road, but I am happy to say they have stepped up to the plate and are attempting to correct mistakes. All is forgiven (mostly).

Added the keel, rudder and bow stem. The kit was missing the keel material, but once again, I had some walnut of the correct size. I had done a complete inventory, but used the parts list to do so, and there are some discrepancies between the manual and the parts list. Oh well. The hull is now very smooth after a round of filling with Elmer's and more sanding. I will wait to do more until after priming. Right now it looks like there will be very little additional work needed. Priming occurs later, after some more work on the interior.

Thanks, David. Hoping the rest of it is on track. . .

Thanks much, David. Working on the two upper wheel enclosures and water closets. Pictured is one filled and sanded and one awaiting filling (outboard view). Had a hard time getting it all to mate up. I was really uncertain of my ability to shape the water closets solid rounded outboard portions, but I think they turned out well, and I really enjoyed the process. I just hope the inboard area has some room for adjustment, as that is where the accumulated error shows most. . . but will wait until mounting to the hull and placing the inboard card bulkhead before making any adjustments. I used the rounded end of a flat toothpick to apply filler to the joints, and 220 grit sandpaper folded in half to sand the joints to a sharp angle, so as not to cut a groove. Did this slowly/gently under magnification and am happy with the results. I primed the PE grilles beforehand, as I did not want to spray the primer through the slots into the blackened interior- probably not necessary, but I was concerned. I will mask the PE prior to priming the rest of the assemblies.

I have done this also. In fact my current model ended up on the floor a couple of days ago, but luckily my floor is carpeted! Your repair looks good. Bob

Finished the planking! Came up short on both sides and had to infill with scrap. I decided to place the last planks against the bulwark where they formed the best joint, and infill below. I filled some gaps with wood dust/glue mixture. Did quite a bit of sanding and things started to feel nice. Additional filling will be done with Elmer's.

Thanks, Gary. BTW, I used my scalpel on myself yesterday, to remove a nasty splinter I picked up doing yardwork. Painless! bob

Looks good Gregg, I'll follow along.

Thank you, David. I had a good teacher. . . and I've absolutely learned to SLOW DOWN! This is a fun model to construct. It will keep me busy for quite some time.

The Grand Stairway is Grand indeed. I love it!

Getting close to finishing the planking. You can see I've got some minor gaps to fill, particularly amidships at the vertical planks. On the side not shown, it is better, though I beveled the planks the same on both sides. I think it is accumulated error due to some small edge-bending in planks above. Still, I am happy enough- they have a good connection to the frames and think it will turn out OK. Fitting the final strake will be its own challenge, as the manual indicates. While letting planks dry, I started on the upper wheel enclosure and water closets. The fourth piece comprising the solid section of the water closets was sanded off during the first shaping operation, so I hope I'm reading the instructions correctly.

Gary, go ahead and get the scalpel, you won't regret it. Being able to cut with less applied pressure will free your attention and make your cuts more precise. And it does not hurt as much when you cut yourself! Bob

Looks very nice, Gregg!

My buildings did not match the deck slots as well. My solution was to cut one of the tabs off. Do yourself a favor, though- consult the large plans for the correct location of the buildings to verify which tab might be the good one before doing any amputations. . .

Howdy. About halfway through the planking. At least, two of the four sheets of planking are installed. Installed the outer stern post. I've definitely got some filling to do. . . but I think this one is better than my last, and that one ended up OK. It might take a couple more before I'd try a natural wood finished hull! Started on the "Sponson Deck," (trapped under the SS plate). It's part of the wheel assembly. Making some progress while planking is drying/gluing.

Nice!

Great job, Gary- Like the stand too! Bob

The wheels are awesome. . .

Began planking. Was a bit puzzled- there is a small step in both the inner stem and stern post which I think should roughly correspond with steps in the garboard planks, they are there to aid in the transition from horizontal to vertical planking, but they are off by about an inch in the bow and more in the stern area. This resulted in a void between the planks and the inner keel, but these are covered by the 1/32" thick closure pieces placed over the area. These strips had to be longer and wider than shown in the manual. It may make no difference, I'll have to see how it looks when placing the outer keel strips. . . Otherwise I think think it's a good start.

Gary, have you tried gel-type CA? I find it a bit easier to control. . .

Very Nice! You'll enjoy the Lobster Smack. It is very elegant.

Installed one of the lower counters at the stern. I had to cut this piece from stock as the supplied pieces were not long enough (due to my extending the knuckles, probably). I think I may have made a mistake in extending the knuckles. I am not left with as much of a gap between the knuckles and the lower counter as is shown in the manual. However, by laying some planking material across bulkheads 14/15 and down to meet the lower counter, it looks like it will work without distortion of the planks. If there is a problem, it might be cured with a slight adjustment of the angle on the knuckles, and possibly a little shim towards bulkhead 15. At least, that's my hope. The intersection of the upper and lower counters finished pretty well and the subtle change in angle is pleasing. This is turning out to be a challenging model, as promised. I am settling into it and finding relaxation in a very slow pace.