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bobandlucy

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  1. bobandlucy
    I'm going to look for that book! Thanks.
  2. bobandlucy
    This is a fun kit to build. I particularly liked imagining life on the boat while assembling it. For me, adding period-appropriate figurines at the end of the build really enhanced the finished model. Since the kit is not supplied with walnut planking in the new version, you might consider painting the hull, as these types of boats were almost certainly always painted. Your call, though!
  3. bobandlucy
    Thank you. I can't say that adding the safety rails and bimini is my idea, as they are mentioned in the kit manual as possibilities. . . I decided to try because while looking at real-life examples, every Nonsuch had safety rails added, and most had the biminis. I decided that these would be a low-risk addition, in that they could largely be built off the model. Also, a real challenge! I finally did some scalpel carving, with a new blade, to thin the fore end-cap of the wishbone, it still needs a little refinement but the gross wood removal is done:
  4. bobandlucy
    I do understand the need to fly. . . It's a lot of fun. I still get out my RealFlight simulator sometimes, and I still have an unused Slowstick plane (relatively easy to fly), which I may fly in the future. The hard part is finding a place to fly. . .
  5. bobandlucy
    Show the assembled wishbone boom. I'm trying to make this part as nice as I can, as it and the very tall mast are what distinguishes this type of boat from others. I'm having a little trouble with the "super-detail" of thinning the fore end cap, so that an "S" hook for a block does not end up looking out of scale. I tried filing the bottom side of the cap at an angle and it does not seem possible to thin it enough that way. I'm thinking that this thinning should be a "step," so that a "U" shape is not created, looking at the piece end-on. From the kit manual (top view): I also tried a Dremel attachment that turned out to be not quite suitable. I might attempt to carve it out with a scalpel, or just use an eyebolt as indicated on the plans. Here's my assembly at this point: Bottom view of fore-end cap: I'm very happy with this sub-assembly thus far. On another subject, this kit does not supply safety rails for the deck. And indeed, it looks like these were installed by owners after purchasing the boats, as I see many different styles used in pictures on the internet. This seems a good opportunity to gain a new skill, soldering brass. I bought a good supply of 1/16" inch dia. hard brass rod, which should represent 1-1/2" inch dia. at this scale. I don't think I've done any soldering since junior high school metal shop. If I can do these and a bimini, it will probably double the time constructing this model, and thus double the entertainment and bang for the buck I get from this kit. . .
  6. bobandlucy
    Nice project. I'd like to do an RC boat model one day. I did planes for a while, but making mistakes in the air gets rather expensive. . . Have fun! I'm following. Bob
  7. bobandlucy
    Yes, the wishbones are very tricky! I hear you about the drinks. . . b
  8. bobandlucy
    While waiting for more white paint to be delivered, started working on the mast, which is huge! two halves are joined to achieve the thickness required, and upper and lower pieces joined for the length, A nice cradle is provided for shaping: Very clever joint at the midpoint is probably the strongest area: Eight squared mast end view: Shaping one half of the wishbone boom, this takes care! "Finished" mast: End view of shaped mast:
  9. bobandlucy
    Nice work Eric, and I LOVE your hearth area!
  10. bobandlucy
    Another lesson from the Master. Yes, I masked too soon. I will not do this again. Thank you very much.
  11. bobandlucy
    This is how I dealt with the damage caused by the boat falling off its perch. . . forgot to take a picture of the actual damage, but it was at least the size of the original mounting post hole: Repaired the mounting post hole. I managed to sneak in a piece of wood as a backing for filler. then filed to size. Began painting the lower hull. I airbrushed the white. It took a full ounce of pre-thinned paint, and many coats to cover the gray primer. I ended up using ME's supplied paint for the bottom, and hand-painted that area. There are some flaws, and when I removed the Tamiya for Curves tape after painting the bottom, it took off some of the paint near the stern. I will wait until painting the topside white to repair this. Think the fin and rudder need another coat, but that will wait until tomorrow. Knowing when to quit is important!
  12. bobandlucy
    Placed the cabin roof elements called for by instructions prior to priming the topsides, and the Sampson post, engine exhaust ports, and mast ring, then did the priming. For the first time ever, used my airbrush (gravity type) through two paint cupful's without clogging. Came out pretty good! I only see four areas needing filling, and these are minor. They include three places on the cabin roof, one a seam, the others places there the laser guidelines do not match the mating elements. The largest area is the cross-grained vertical pieces of the outer cockpit wall at the stern. I don't see a need for a complete re-priming, and may re-prime the corrected places by hand. All of the topside was sanded to 400 grit. The areas that are absolutely smooth are those that were filled. If I ever do this sort of hull again, I would consider using sanding sealer. But I will lightly sand the primed surfaces, and feel sure all will be OK. I'm very happy at the moment- it seems like a good place to quit for the day!
  13. bobandlucy
    I know! Good choice of subject.
  14. bobandlucy
    Thank you, Sir! I did get the paint set from ME, but have not really examined/evaluated their choices yet. . . sometimes in previous projects they have been puzzling or inexplicable. I have spent some evenings looking at pictures on the net, you're correct- the color choices are limitless. Paralyzing. . . Have also found a couple of sites with historical information regarding this boat and the people involved in design and production. Very interesting! I'm sure you have seen them, but for others who might be interested, here are two articles: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1X-xEsvFyVP7TgoHYdLq6Z27C_a8rGasA/view https://drive.google.com/file/d/133gzmsrpGO7aZS2XJkcmj2BQgntajWC0/view There are also some "live" tours out there. Bob
  15. bobandlucy
    Sanding and filling the topside. Still a bit to do, but it is coming along nicely. I'm applying filler to every joint with a toothpick sanded to a chisel point, slow going. Sanding with 220, then 320, then 400 grit paper. Showing the "good side" of the lower hull here. I still see defects on the other side. but will not make additional attempts to correct, as I did 5 rounds. I did learn from this experience! It all chalks up to the planking. . . I'm very happy with the cockpit, and this is the most appealing part of the boat to me, so far. After all, this is where I'm hanging out on a nice day, enjoying an adult beverage. . .
  16. bobandlucy
    Great painting! I'll have to look this artist up, new to me. . .
  17. bobandlucy
    Installed the cabin sides. Despite efforts made, I have some filling to do at the juncture of the deck and sides, and the joints between the side pieces. . . Began installing the cabin roof. I was worried about this, but it looks like it will be pretty good: Wet-bending the slope at the fore-end of the cabin: One thing I want to note for other builders of this kit: As I had noted in an earlier post, the hole for the mounting rod was elongated side-to-side, because of some warping of the hull halves (was not this way before planking). The part of the spine resting on the mounting rod is not much wider than the rod (if at all), and as the boat is not glued to the rod at this stage, a couple of times the boat tipped and slipped off the rod, and while trying to right the boat, the hull was crushed a bit on one side. Can't show a pic of this right now, but now I have an even more elongated mounting hole. So, be careful! Might not hurt to glue some scrap on either side of the mounting slot in the spine, both fore and aft, for a little more margin for error. . . Nothing a little filler won't fix. I'll do that before painting the hull. Not the time now, as the filler won't give much structural strength.
  18. bobandlucy
    When I said Nonsuch is not as complex as Harriet Lane, I guess that's true in regard to the number of features, and its simpler rigging. False as to skill level required. Kit designer David A., in the manual says, "Although this model appears to be simple to build, it is not." Of course he's correct. It is a greater challenge, because as a modern mass-manufactured boat, flaws show in greater magnitude. Also, as a step up in the series, one must think more things out for oneself. This model is kicking my behind in some ways, and I have a long way to go. Getting my monies worth for sure! I'm hoping to get a Grade B or C on this one. I see some difficult problems to be solved coming up. . . Some refinements still needed, but the cockpit area is built.
  19. bobandlucy
    Looks very nice Gregg! It's worth a display case to protect all that well-done rigging! Bob
  20. bobandlucy
    Thanks for the link. I saw this on Amazon, but think it is meant for siphon-type airbrushes, not for gravity-fed models. . . I will try the BB's or wire in Dremel tool before attempting straining as has been suggested. Thanks to all. Bob
  21. bobandlucy
    Made the display base. I replaced the wooden dowels with brass rod, as I did on Harriet Lane. The boat is very wobbly when placed on the base, due to a gap between the hull halves at the aft end, which enlarged the hole for the mounting rod. It is not time to permanently mount the boat to the rods, so I am stabilizing things with elastic bands. The nuts are out again, this time weighing down the cockpit floor while the glue sets. Attaching the seat sides. . . going is slow in the cockpit, as a lot of adjustments are required due to accumulated errors. I am hopeful it will be OK.
  22. bobandlucy
    Thank you both. I'll stop by HD and look at their products. Panty hose seems a good idea also. Bob
  23. bobandlucy
    Has anyone tried to strain acrylic paint or primer for airbrushing? I have a couple of bottles (one was unopened) of Stylenrez primer that have some clumps and clogged my airbrush. Most of the stuff is fine and should be usable. The only commercially available strainer for airbrushes I found at Micro Mark- did not see any at USA Airbrush Supply. . . Thanks Bob
  24. bobandlucy
    Gary, yes- doing years of exacting work, trying to do the best for a client, and hopefully keeping the firm out of court changes a person. Sometimes for the better. . . sometimes otherwise. I did the third round of filling/sanding to the most offending side of the hull. Totally worth the effort. Will repeat on the other side and re-evaluate.
  25. bobandlucy
    Of course you're right. My way is to torture myself over every little detail until I question my very reason for existence! Not easy to change one's nature. I did end up happy with my last model.

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