bobandlucy
-
Posts
494 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by bobandlucy
-
I forgot to mention the fact that I cut the holes in the spine for the masts and boxed them in. While doing that I found that at least the one plan I used for locating the masts was not printed at the correct scale. I decided to use the lines for the bulkheads nearest each mast as a reference point. . . I hope that works out OK. Looking at the deck plan it seems like there might be a little wiggle room. I found the framing templates PDF's posted on another log and downloaded those. Going forward I'll need to figure out the scale correction factor to adjust photocopies of the plans for use in locating other elements. I've encountered this kind of error before in ME's printed plans- I just don't get why they can't seem to get this simple and essential thing right. Frustrating. On the bright side, a neighbor gave me this used wooden tool chest which she found at Goodwill ($25.00!!) for Christmas. I absolutely love it. It weighs a ton!
-
Built a building board. . . spine was warped as usual, but the board seems to hold it straight. I found it difficult to carve the required bevels in the plywood spine and bulkheads. Got it done, leaving some material for fairing. All my bulkheads except one were loose, and I am installing them with card and paper shims. For that reason, I am going to delay the final fairing until after all the bulkheads are glued in. I just have to figure out how to support the model upside down. Tapered the bow piece and tinkered with the figurehead to achieve a nice fit.
-
I selected the USS Syren for my seventh model. There are many build logs on MSW for this kit, and I was unsure if I'd do a log this time. After reading a few logs I decided that I may well need some advice along the way, so here I go. . . I previously constructed all of David Antscherl's kits available at Model Expo. I learned much from each of them, and enjoyed the experience. I hope to achieve additional growth in this hobby constructing this Syren kit designed by Chuck Passaro, who also has an excellent reputation. My goals for this build: 1. The POB models I have done thus far have been furnished with "pre-shaped" planking, which is a great help, but I'd like to be able to construct a hull from stock planks, a skill necessary for scratch-building. 2. Make a decent coppered hull. 3. Move up a step in more involved rigging. The ME Harriet Lane I made had pretty involved rigging, and I'm really proud of getting it done, and pretty nicely. Pictures of the Syren's rigging are absolutely mind-blowing. I like the feeling of total concentration and spatial awareness required. I do need to obtain the best magnifying visor/glasses for this task as I've had at least one disaster, sometimes more, on each rigged model- snagging rigging on the visor trying to get a better view. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Reading glasses used to be optional for me- but no longer. . . 4. Obtain appropriate reference materials so I might have a better understanding of ship features and operation, as well as the history of this particular ship. I'm doing inventory against the parts list now, filing the small stuff into a compartmentalized plastic case as I go. I will probably not try to count the 320 small eyebolts and 310 3/32" blocks. . . but am counting everything else. I will be requesting a replacement for the cast metal "stern carvings," which may be the worst castings I've ever seen. I'm hoping that someone can suggest an alternate for these parts. . . More later Bob
-
The masts look very nice. I'll have to try your method of tapering dowels. Bob
- 72 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Glad Tidings
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Looks great, Gary. Look forward to the next one. Bob
-
Thanks to all for the nice comments and "likes." I am a harsh judge of my own work, so it's nice to see others saying such positive things. Nice also to see Canadians represented amongst you, after all this is a Canada-produced boat! I used to live in Canada- I do miss the people. . . and the fishing. . . but not the winters! Bob
- 111 replies
-
- 3
-
-
-
- Nonsuch 30
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
I've decided against adding the safety railings and bimini to the model at this point in time. I may do so one day. . . I decided that the bimini would obscure the view of the cabin roof hardware, a view I really like. Also, both the bimini and the railings would have to be really well done in order to not clash with the natural lines of the model. I'll get there someday, but am not there now. I do have all the materials now and will work on learning to solder well enough to please me, and over time purchase the additional tools I think I need to build required jigs accurately. So, I'm calling it done. I'm pretty happy with this one, and it has been a great deal of fun to build. In some ways, it is my best effort thus far. The sail could be improved and the mast cap is askew (I'd re-set the cap, but had used epoxy, and am afraid I'd cause damage in doing that. But I think I did a good job on the hull, deck, cabin and cockpit. The main flaw is that the forward port on the cabin is set higher on the wall than the side ports. I recommend this model to anyone interested in these types of boats. It's fun to build a vessel that is still in use today. Bob
- 111 replies
-
- 16
-
-
-
- Nonsuch 30
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Thank you Richard. after I read this comment I looked at the model, and the rope is not wrapped around the winch yet at all, nor the cleat. It just snakes between the two and I used a clip to weigh it down. But I could have very well made the mistake you pointed out, and now hopefully never will! Bob
- 111 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- Nonsuch 30
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Started rigging. Very enjoyable. I replaced the rope with product from Syren. I was late in ordering, because I was going to use some Syren rope I already had, but it was slightly undersized. No problem, the new rope showed up 3 or 4 days after ordering- from across the country! I'll say it again, what outstanding service! And there is simply no comparison to be made between the ME supplied "Jewelry Thread" and the Syren rope.
- 111 replies
-
- 8
-
-
-
- Nonsuch 30
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
I made the sail. Luckily, the kit furnished enough material for two, because I botched the first. I ironed the material before and after cutting, but could not get it to lie flat. And it appears that I scorched it a bit the second time, at the lower center. The iron and I have never been friends; it's come out of the closet only 3 or 4 times in 25 years. Well, it will have to do:
- 111 replies
-
- 6
-
-
- Nonsuch 30
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
David, thank you. I'm thinking of trying the plastic insulating sheeting used over residential windows to create an air gap. They are meant for heat shrinking, but I would forgo that. The downside may be shrinkage over time from ambient temperatures- it gets hot here. . . but I have not noticed that occurring when I've used the stuff in the past. Maybe it can be pre-shrunk. I think I may already have some, if I can find it! On Twain, I don't throw out the baby with the bathwater! bob
- 111 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- Nonsuch 30
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Thanks for the suggestion! I remember this stuff being used on model airplanes (though I never got to that stage). Adhered with "dope." How would you deal with the clear plastic windows? And yes, I'm a lifelong Twainiac! Bob
- 111 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Nonsuch 30
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
I managed to solder together a frame for a small bimini. The hardware store had silver braze, and I tried that first. I was able to make one good test joint, which is very neat and strong, but was unable to reproduce that result consistently. I switched to soft solder, which does not look as good, but I can do. . . Here is a picture of the simple bimini I am trying to reproduce: And here is my frame: Now my worry is making an acceptable fabric cover, which I am beginning to doubt I have the skill to do. I made the decision to keep working on it, as a side project, but go ahead and finish the model before attempting to add the bimini, which I will only do if it equals in quality what I have achieved so far. I am very happy with this model and don't care to mess it up! So I went ahead and added the mast:
- 111 replies
-
- 10
-
-
-
- Nonsuch 30
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Thank you, David and Yves. Very kind of you both.
- 111 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- Nonsuch 30
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Thanks, Gregg. The wheel itself is one piece, and yes I will do what rigging I can before installing the mast. Added the anchor and chain, with my first shackle made from copper wire. I hope to get better at shackles. . . Added the optional "wood" trim at the top of the cabin walls and around the toe rail. These are of card and painted. The trim for the cabin is 1/16" wide and I found it very hard to cut such thin strips from the card stock. So I bought this paper trimmer which, with practice, made some passable, if not perfect, strips: The 3/16" wide trim for the toe rail is cut using the laser sheet that contained the deck halves as a guide. This operation was very difficult to pull off and I discarded 75% or more of my attempts. I'm thinking that if I'm going to add a Bimini I ought to get it installed before adding the mast and sail. . .
- 111 replies
-
- 11
-
-
- Nonsuch 30
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Thanks to all! This model is so much fun. Added the cockpit stand, steering column, and wheel. I'm getting very close to "stepping" the mast, and am kind of nervous about that. . .
- 111 replies
-
- 8
-
-
- Nonsuch 30
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
I made and added, for lack of a better term, "anchor chain rollers" to the pulpit. They are of wood and painted aluminum to match the pulpit. I saw online that most of these boats had these installed, maybe by the owners? Added the grab rails to the cabin roof: Painted the cabin companion door and added framing. I don't know that my attempt to make the door look like wood grain is all that convincing. . .
- 111 replies
-
- 8
-
-
-
- Nonsuch 30
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Spent a some hours cleaning up the metal parts for the deck and then installed them. I wish I'd noticed earlier- there are four holes laser-cut for winches located on the aft of the cabin roof, but there are only three winches required, two port, one starboard. I filled the extra hole and touched up the paint. No biggie, but I am finding that doing brushed paint repairs on airbrushed surfaces is difficult. The different textures reflect light differently, and are apparent. However I don't really think anyone will notice besides myself. I decided to leave the ventilator (red interior) with a polished metal finish rather than white painted. I saw online both versions, and felt that there is enough white already, although I like the clean look. . . But the "stainless" or "chromed" look is also appropriate for a modern boat. I should have addressed this earlier- the forward three port openings on the cabin wall need to have interior structural elements painted black. As always, photos reveal areas needing touch-up! In a sign of encroaching age-related mental deterioration, I found that my online perusal of history, photos, and sale advertising for these boats somehow morphed into shopping. I don't know how to sail, so this is especially ridiculous. I don't have room in my yard or driveway for even the smallest of these boats. I started thinking of purchasing a small lot. . . b
- 111 replies
-
- 9
-
-
-
- Nonsuch 30
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Thanks guys, for the nice comments. Outfitted the boom and mast with the required fittings. There seem to be minor discrepancies between the manuals' text and the plans, and between the plans and the rigging plan, regarding placement of fittings for the wishbone boom. After some (a lot of) studying, I made my best guesses, installed the fittings and primed the assemblies. I don't think any of the fitting locations will be functionally impactful regardless, but any chance to activate obsessiveness will be taken and I guess I enjoy that! I decided to paint the blocks that are attached to the boom and mast, and leave the others in bright metal. Through some trick of photography, all of the photos don't show the pieces as primed gray, but they are gray. . . Permanently installed the boat on its supports. Added the pulpit, spurling, and a couple of the cleats. All is looking pretty good to me (especially without magnification). I do see now that the pulpit should have been installed a with a degree or so higher incline to match the upsweep of the bow. It is not installed horizontal, but does create a visual discrepancy as it is. I am thinking of adding rollers for the anchor chain which may cover for this somewhat. It was very tricky installing these pieces (pulpit and support) on the fly. . . and I'm not going to attempt to change them now as I used epoxy.
- 111 replies
-
- 8
-
-
- Nonsuch 30
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Finished the painting of the hull, except for some touchup needed at locations of masking bleed. I should have been looking at pictures online before doing the transom. I had the idea that the width of the lower stripe should be maintained. Well, it looks kind of funky! Online pictures show the lower stripe is usually discontinued at the transom. It may have looked all right if I had allowed the stripe to thin in width. . . I'm a bit leery of trying to correct this, as removing the paint and repainting may lead to an even worse outcome. I may chalk this one up as a lesson learned.
- 111 replies
-
- 7
-
-
- Nonsuch 30
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
Our Emblem ®
