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Gregory
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Suggested sites for purchasing wood model ship kits
Gregory replied to Capella's topic in Wood ship model kits
That would send me running.. -
1:54 HMB Endeavour
Gregory replied to Tony_Brooks's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
You might just try making a mark with the point of a pin then a bit of pencil.. Give it a light sanding and give it another coat of poly. -
1:54 HMB Endeavour
Gregory replied to Tony_Brooks's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
A little late for that at this point. When I said " treenailing " I was speaking of the effect that was achieved on the model as it sits, and continuing the effect on the forecastle, with the simulated treenails at the ends of the planks. Right or wrong, it boils down to what the modeler is trying to accomplish.
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1:54 HMB Endeavour
Gregory replied to Tony_Brooks's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
If you are treenailing the main deck, why not the forecastle? -
I think white of almost any shade would be distracting. Your build has a bit of antique look, which is a look I favor, so I think the sails would look good with a sort of old ivory look. Very light and subtle. You're the artist so use your judgement.
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- Constitution
- Revell
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Rigging an anchor - mid 1700's to late 1700's
Gregory replied to LyleK1's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
That's the take away for me.. I'm sure the average non model builder, in the absence of visible anchors, would be saying " where are those anchor thingies? " -
@Ian_Grant Thanks Ian.. Looks like I was not paying attention.. Gregory
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I looked a little closer in the book.. What is labeled as sheet on p. 49 - 50 for the fore course, are actually clew lines. They are correctly labeled on 51 for the main sail. The lines through the sheaves on the bitts, would logically be tied off on the bitts.
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FWIW, While Petersson may have accurately documented what he found on a model, there is no good reason to believe the model was rigged accurately. Sheet lines reeving through the sheaves of those bitts is clearly wrong. I need to look at the book again, because it may be a matter of Petersson having labeled lines as sheets, when in fact they were something else.
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I just related what Lees said about the fore course sheets, which are the lines in question. There are no illustrations regarding the belaying points in this case.
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Petersson documented the rigging of the sheets as he found on a model, but it is interesting he didn't note the belaying point. Lees says the ( fore course Petersson p.49 ) sheets rove through sheaves in the bulwarks and belayed to cleats or kevels on the inside of the bulwarks.
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Posting video
Gregory replied to Valkyrja68's topic in Using the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT IN THIS SUB-FORUM**
For instructional purposes, pictures get to the point. Videos rarely do. A well done video of a finished model can be nice. -
I think the inside would end up being dark; shades of brown and black, as a result of contamination and wear and tear.
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Other LN builders would have to confirm this, but the false deck can sometimes help you align the bulkheads. I'm not sure if that is the case with this kit.
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Looking for a good "starter" pin vise set
Gregory replied to Capella's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Alleycat asked me where I got mine.. I'm sure the better quality pin vises are better quality. but I'm not sure how that makes their use for ship modeling of any particular advantage. I don't find four different tools when one will work, to be all that convenient.. -
Looking for a good "starter" pin vise set
Gregory replied to Capella's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The makers of the one I bought call themselves AutoToolHome Amazon has a large number of vendors for this style of pin vise.. -
Make sure you note in other logs where some shortcomings in the kit were pointed out. Otherwise, the kit has a lot of potential to build into a very nice ship.
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- Lady Nelson
- Amati
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Just curious, since you have apparently researched this well. I asked about the planking of the transom of English longboats in this topic. Has your research turned up any information in this regard?
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I believe the plans for the Revell kit were drawn by George F. Campbell and is a loose interpretation of the Hull model. Hull model Revell stern. This is a photo from 1945 that should be the same as the 1927 restoration. It is not much like the Revell kit but very similar to the current configuration. This document form the Constitution museum, says the latest restoration was an effort to restore the 1812 configuration, but does not mention what the present appearance of the stern is based on. https://ussconstitutionmuseum.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/1833-2010Restrtns.pdf If there is contrary evidence I stand to be corrected.
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- United States
- Revell
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You should try to source some other model rope for your boat. Three or four different sizes each of light ( tan ) and dark brown, based on the scale of your kit. Dark for standing rigging, light for running. There are tables and references regarding the size of various ropes and lines, but with a model it can be sufficient to go with what looks good. Heavier ropes for the lower masts and yards, and getting lighter as you go up. Syren or Ropes of Scale are great sources. Or you could think about making your own..
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Just take a good look at some of the Winchelsea logs for some planking tips on a hull of this type.. Adding butt joints to your Diana planking would be a nice touch..
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