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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. You will be looking for something like this.. Brass Chainplate with Deadeye Your components should be similar..
  2. You might consider Cheerful.. It requires more or less scratch work depending on which of mini kits you decide to go with.. If you are not ready to mill your own strip wood Another of our sponsors Modelers Sawmill has a wood package for Cheerful.. PS If Cheerful seems a bit ambitious, any double planked kit that appeals to you, and appears to have a good framework, will give you a chance to practice the planking twice, as you can use 3rd party wood to cut and shape proper planks. The draw back of most plank on bulkhead kits is that they don't have enough bulkheads to form a smooth one planking approach. This can be overcome to some extent by filling in the space between bulkheads with some suitable wood.
  3. Not that I would plank a model like this, but look at all the crazy drop planks in this planking expansion of Cruizer class.. Very similar to Speedy/Flirt .. Cruizer_class_
  4. You might consider a drop plank.. You could practice here and include on 2nd planking. Pic from Chucks Winchelsea.. It helps with not having too narrow planks at the stem.
  5. There is lots of interest from those who are buying kits from our members Chuck and Chris, owners of Syren Ship Model Company and Vanguard Models, respectively.. Take a look at The Winchelsea project and the many Sphinx logs to see what these kit designers have accomplished with Lasers. I have done a lot of laser work in my Resolution build..
  6. The link for me goes to the Bounty page. Note that the word " Bounty " is part of the URL. Scrolling down I see: When I click on "Instructions And Downloadable Contents", I see: So, hopefully there are some instructions in there..
  7. Downloadable instructions here: https://artesanialatina.net/en/ships-elite/486-wooden-model-ship-kit-hms-bounty-frigate-8421426228106.html
  8. Have you ever worked with copper leaf? The link above starts off talking about gold, but makes it clear it is copper if you choose it from the various options. It might make a good covering for your existing work. My experience is that it goes on almost like paint and is seamless. I used it to cover the the cupola of the companionway on my Resolution. It goes on as very shiny copper, but a patina can be created in various ways.
  9. Might be a little hard to find if one doesn't know their way around the site.. You have to go to the NRG home page and look at Resources, then find your way to "ARTICLES AND HOW TOS", then find the article by Gene. https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/CopperSheathingaHull.pdf
  10. I've found the twisted end can be twisted into a hole like a screw and require no glue..
  11. That looks real good! As long as you let the headstock move you shouldn't have to worry about breakage.. If it gets too tight it will start to kink..
  12. For those who want to be more challenged, here is a fine example by Johann .
  13. Goodwin shows a mouse on Alert in his AOTS.. He references a rigged model, Hawke, but I can't tell from the images if the mouse is on the model..
  14. Don't forget, Chris is a member here and always quick to answer any questions...
  15. You might consider one of the smaller boats from Vanguard like Erycina, Nisha Fifie ‘Lady Eleanor’, Zulu ‘Lady Isabella’.. You can download the manual for free for some if not all of these at the Vanguard site. The vanguard manuals are like practicums, and there are many logs here at MSW.. If you want to order in North America, another of our sponsors Crafty Sailor has many of these kits..
  16. Back when I was building my first kit almost 30 years ago, and there was no internet, I came across the idea of beeswax dissolved in turpentine. I think it may have been Longridge's Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, or an article in Seaways. This allowed it to really soak the line, and the turpentine would evaporate after a while. I still had to use an alcohol lamp to get rid of the fuzzies. I still have that ship ( in pieces ) and the rigging line, I believe it is cotton, is quite stiff. It looks OK.. I believe the beeswax helps it from being affected by moisture, which is not a problem with polyester.. The fuzzies are not as much of a problem with polyester, depending on the thread. Seems to be minimal with the Gutterman I use for making my own rope..
  17. I have experimented with bees wax but did not find it to be a solution to the fuzzies.. The flame ( alcohol lamp ) is the best way , but takes practice and care. For the UK, I have heard Amati sells pretty good rope. Available at Cornwall Model Boats.. Most kit supplied rope leaves a lot to be desired, If you are planning on building more boats, kits or otherwise, you might look into making your own rope..
  18. If you don't want to make your own then one of the sources already provided would be the way to go..
  19. Why do you feel this is important at this point? Small variations can be taken care of with shims or fairing to get a smooth run of the planking. The only legitimate way to get symmetry is to have templates that you use to compare to both sides.. Did the kit come with bulkhead drawings.. These could have been used before assembly to make corrections. At this point they could be used to make templates.
  20. 'Knot' is also a verb..🙂
  21. Great Idea for re-packaging a piece of veneer and calling it a un-cut wood deck, and selling it for 2-3x original cost.😃 Not to mention a really course grain for this sort of thing.. I have found maple veneer to not look too bad.
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