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Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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AVS = Armed Virginia Sloop, the type of ship in this log.. -
Here are Chucks basic recipes using various Mara ( size/weight ).. https://modelshipworld.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=602941 405.12 kB · 158 downloads His sizes are in inches, so you can multiply by 25.4 to get mm. His smallest recipe is .oo8" which is .2mm. He uses 3 strands of Mara 120, so 2 strands might get you close to .15. That is really small stuff. The kit supplied sizes may not be a good match for actual ( scale ) practice.. Of course that opens another can of worms, because actual practice might have called for many more sizes that those specified in a kit.. .5mm Will fall between the .018 and .025 in the recipe. You could experiment to get something to fall between those two. Three strands of 70 sounds like it would be close. Chuck's recipes are for his Rope Rocket, so a different type of rope maker might produce different results.
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Are you milling your own planks? I like the way you are getting a subtle amount of variation to make it interesting. Incredible work!
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Forming a garboard
Gregory replied to rudybob's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I need two l's to do it right..😀 -
Forming a garboard
Gregory replied to rudybob's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Something else if it's not too late.. The 2D plan doesn't take into account any curvature in other dimensions at this point.. Some spilling or other method may be in order, even though the amount of curving at the garboard is very slight.. Here is an example where I used masking tape to trace the shape of a plank on my Resolution. Note how the shape of the plank when laid out flat, looks more curved than when traced on the hull. Then it lays perfectly flat when placed on the hull..
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Help with 5mm deadeyes on Bounty
Gregory replied to JayDee24ca's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
You will be looking for something like this.. Brass Chainplate with Deadeye Your components should be similar..
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You might consider Cheerful.. It requires more or less scratch work depending on which of mini kits you decide to go with.. If you are not ready to mill your own strip wood Another of our sponsors Modelers Sawmill has a wood package for Cheerful.. PS If Cheerful seems a bit ambitious, any double planked kit that appeals to you, and appears to have a good framework, will give you a chance to practice the planking twice, as you can use 3rd party wood to cut and shape proper planks. The draw back of most plank on bulkhead kits is that they don't have enough bulkheads to form a smooth one planking approach. This can be overcome to some extent by filling in the space between bulkheads with some suitable wood.
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Not that I would plank a model like this, but look at all the crazy drop planks in this planking expansion of Cruizer class.. Very similar to Speedy/Flirt .. Cruizer_class_
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You might consider a drop plank.. You could practice here and include on 2nd planking. Pic from Chucks Winchelsea.. It helps with not having too narrow planks at the stem.
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There is lots of interest from those who are buying kits from our members Chuck and Chris, owners of Syren Ship Model Company and Vanguard Models, respectively.. Take a look at The Winchelsea project and the many Sphinx logs to see what these kit designers have accomplished with Lasers. I have done a lot of laser work in my Resolution build..
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Artesenia Latina Printed Instructions Needed
Gregory replied to Aj73's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The link for me goes to the Bounty page. Note that the word " Bounty " is part of the URL. Scrolling down I see: When I click on "Instructions And Downloadable Contents", I see: So, hopefully there are some instructions in there..
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Artesenia Latina Printed Instructions Needed
Gregory replied to Aj73's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Downloadable instructions here: https://artesanialatina.net/en/ships-elite/486-wooden-model-ship-kit-hms-bounty-frigate-8421426228106.html -
Have you ever worked with copper leaf? The link above starts off talking about gold, but makes it clear it is copper if you choose it from the various options. It might make a good covering for your existing work. My experience is that it goes on almost like paint and is seamless. I used it to cover the the cupola of the companionway on my Resolution. It goes on as very shiny copper, but a patina can be created in various ways.
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Copper plates
Gregory replied to Barbara's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Might be a little hard to find if one doesn't know their way around the site.. You have to go to the NRG home page and look at Resources, then find your way to "ARTICLES AND HOW TOS", then find the article by Gene. https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/CopperSheathingaHull.pdf -
MAKING EYE'S AND HOOKS
Gregory replied to Peter6172's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I've found the twisted end can be twisted into a hole like a screw and require no glue.. -
That looks real good! As long as you let the headstock move you shouldn't have to worry about breakage.. If it gets too tight it will start to kink..
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Need help making eyes, loops, etc.
Gregory replied to Michael Scarborough's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
For those who want to be more challenged, here is a fine example by Johann . -
Goodwin shows a mouse on Alert in his AOTS.. He references a rigged model, Hawke, but I can't tell from the images if the mouse is on the model..
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Great to see you back at work..
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Don't forget, Chris is a member here and always quick to answer any questions...
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You might consider one of the smaller boats from Vanguard like Erycina, Nisha Fifie ‘Lady Eleanor’, Zulu ‘Lady Isabella’.. You can download the manual for free for some if not all of these at the Vanguard site. The vanguard manuals are like practicums, and there are many logs here at MSW.. If you want to order in North America, another of our sponsors Crafty Sailor has many of these kits..
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Back when I was building my first kit almost 30 years ago, and there was no internet, I came across the idea of beeswax dissolved in turpentine. I think it may have been Longridge's Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, or an article in Seaways. This allowed it to really soak the line, and the turpentine would evaporate after a while. I still had to use an alcohol lamp to get rid of the fuzzies. I still have that ship ( in pieces ) and the rigging line, I believe it is cotton, is quite stiff. It looks OK.. I believe the beeswax helps it from being affected by moisture, which is not a problem with polyester.. The fuzzies are not as much of a problem with polyester, depending on the thread. Seems to be minimal with the Gutterman I use for making my own rope..
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Nice jig and nice work..
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I have experimented with bees wax but did not find it to be a solution to the fuzzies.. The flame ( alcohol lamp ) is the best way , but takes practice and care. For the UK, I have heard Amati sells pretty good rope. Available at Cornwall Model Boats.. Most kit supplied rope leaves a lot to be desired, If you are planning on building more boats, kits or otherwise, you might look into making your own rope..
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Less costly rigging rope for Pride of Baltimore II?
Gregory replied to Brewerpaul's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
If you don't want to make your own then one of the sources already provided would be the way to go..
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