Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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I would think Lees would have mentioned this. Maybe someone else can check before I can get to my library.. Lavery goes into great detail about anchors and cables, but doesn't mention tarring.. He does say a 74 would have had 7, 22inch cables of 120 fathoms. That would have been a lot of tar that would need to be replenished..
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Here is a link to Chuck's recipes.. Like Chuck says, your end result can be slightly different depending on how your machine does things, but it should be close.. -
I'm sure Chuck can add more, but I don't know if he can tell about sources in Australia.. With Mara, the higher the number the finer the thread. Tex appears to be the opposite. There is a chart with Chuck's rope recipes here somewhere.. I will try to find it if someone doesn't beat me to it.. Wawak is where I get my thread in the US.. Here is a page with the Gutermann polyesters they carry. It is really hard to know what the color will be in person by looking at their color chips. I use their 2827 which is a hemp color and 446 which is a real dark brown, but maybe not as close to black as some might prefer.. I use several different Mara numbers depending on the desire rope size..
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Food for thought: The cartoon about the $15 saw blade.. About $145 today..
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While I respect the idea of checking the tables, standards, establishments and such, this is a time when you might think about " What looks good ? " We should have lots of good( and bad) examples in our build logs.. Here is a great example from archjofo's La Creole Let archjofo know if his ropes do not conform to the establishments..😁
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Staining rigging to match the miniature model
Gregory replied to BrankoSNY's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Are the alcohol based dyes like Fiebing's a potential problem? -
I'm just wondering if a uniform finish, inside or out, would provide a more uniform response to the elements, regardless of the severity of the environment..
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You don't think there is any need to minimize the effects of temperature and humidity?
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The galley stack that far aft seems a bit anachronistic to me, but I can't say for sure if it is wrong..
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Looks like some nice progress in spite of lack of proper direction.. Every build is a learning experience..
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Like Kieth says your best help will be other build logs. Similar rigs ( schooners ) will be of help. Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft - by Lenarth Petersson should be some help.. Here is a topic by Dr PR that will be a lot of help A lot gets lost in translation with many European ( not UK ) kits. The 'ring with leg' is an eyebolt.. A big problem with Corel is they will create a kit based on lines from a public domain source then proceed to make everything else up.. It may include some accurate information, but it can be hard to sort out. ( My Resolution build is a good example) With a good rigging guide as mentioned above, you can ignore the kit rigging plans..
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Glue suggestion for connection
Gregory replied to Koopyetz's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Not from me.. May be too late this time, but next time you should consider providing a rabbet ( groove ) at the stem for your planking to sit into.
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Been a while since an update, but I have been slowly going forward with rigging.. A lot of hooks blocks and tackles. Not really tying anything off at this point. Yards are made, but not ready for prime time yet.
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Site Rules Clarification
Gregory replied to Captain Slog's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
Spamming the forum with what amounts to click-bait is against forum rules. That is all the member in question is doing so far with their activity here. They were/are not participating in any discussion about model building, or offering the opportunity to discuss the merits of their information. -
What year was Lowestoft? Lavery says up to 1750 only on spanshackle was fitted near the centerline. That model appears to follow that convention..
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Your video shows what might be called " bulls eyes " .. A sort of wood thimble. They may have served the same purpose as deadeyes in certain situations.. If we are going to help fellow modelers, it s important to provide correct information..
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PS When I said 250 oven, that would be Fahrenheit..
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Haven't explored this with CNC, but with my laser , I have a set home position (effectively '0' ), then I am able to just position my drawing in the software workspace so it aligns with laser '0' .. Do you not have a similar option with your software?
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The risk with plywood, is that prolonged soaking can de-laminate it. You might try letting it soak for a few minutes then clamping it between some nice flat pieces ( without the plastic ) and put it in a warm oven - 250 for a few hours. After removing from oven, let cool completely before removing clamps. Other options: Cut new pieces. Contact Amati for replacement pieces.
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Excuse me if I am being presumptuous about what may be doable with this kit, particularly after the fact, but would it have been possible to cut those pieces in one or more places and removed a little material?
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Why masts are square at the top?
Gregory replied to Tommy Vercetti's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Here is a link where you can click through some of the high res images: Built up Yards & Masts -
Why masts are square at the top?
Gregory replied to Tommy Vercetti's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Just to show that things were even more complicated, and to emphasize what Dr PR said about finding suitable timber for a tall round mast, large main masts would have been laminated like this, from Mondfeld:
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That was my thought.. Just didn't elaborate..
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