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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. Gregory
    Jim pretty much covered it, but here is a picture of how Chuck makes rings. He is using a saw, which leaves a cleaner cut.. I just use some small flush cutters. Not as clean a cut, but whose checking..
  2. Gregory
    It's one of those things that can be nagging if one worries about ' historical accuracy '.. I'm of the " If it looks good, it is good. " school.. I'm not going to fret over a mm, but I found no documentation of a 6 pdr being less than 6 ft. I have the Hahn plans which also have the cannon at about 5 ft.. I was just looking for some 6 pdr barrels for my 1:48 project, and going by the MS plans I was coming closer to 30mm than the 37 mm that would scale closer to 6 ft at 1:48 .. The 6 pdrs for the AOTS Blandford are 7ft 6" not counting the cascable. They look a little top heavy to me, sitting on the carriage. Lavery in ' Arming and Fitting-' says they could be from 6ft to 9 ft 6" according to the 1703 establishments. I think the 30mm barells look good at 1:64 and I am comfortable scaling those up to ~ 37 for 1:48.
  3. Gregory
    I don't think you could go wrong by staying with the CC as it is.. The curve looks better IMO.
  4. Gregory
    I just to clarify, are those the cannon that are 1 11/64" long - 29.75 mm ? That would scale to a little over 6 ft at 1:64, and sounds reasonable. I was looking at the measurements on the MS plans and they scaled to around 5 feet which did not sound right.
  5. Gregory
    This may be a bit premature considering I'm sort of stalled on my Resolution, which is about 95% done, but I'm hoping to soon start a scratch build of Rattlesnake with the MS plans. It's going to be an upscale at 1:48. I think it will be a nice project to jump into a little CNC carving. The NMM plans, that I linked to above, have a lot to add to the possible detail of the carvings, and there are some 1:48 add-ons that I am thinking about, like the Winchelsea Capstan and the MS 26ft longboat.
  6. Gregory
    Just what I was looking for.. Thanks for all the great replies.. For some reason I hadn't flagged this for replies so I didn't realize I had any answers.
  7. Gregory
    I understand that. There are no actual drawings of the Bounty stern that I am aware of. The replica and the Caldercraft rendition compares well to several renditions that are out there, including the AOTS book. I was just suggesting the carvings could be moved onto the transom where they would blend in with the other ornate work with good effect. I of course respect your decision in the matter.. As I said, you have a very respectable build going.
  8. Gregory
    Funny you should ask.. Most of my rope that I make is about 40 inches long, and I have found if I wind it on spools it is really hard to get the curves out if I don't use it right away. I just double it and hang loosely from this wire shelf.
  9. Gregory
    Does this help? ( click on the arrow in the upper right corner )
  10. Gregory
    Some pictures of what the problem is would help with making suggestions regarding repairing.
  11. Gregory
    A very nice model you have going. It might be nice if you refine some of your details.. The quarter galleries look a little strange.. The window panes look odd.. Also some of the transom decorations look out of place.. Compare to this:
  12. Gregory
    I would give ModelExpo more than a day..
  13. Gregory
    Which would indicate it was a matter of fastening rather than modeling actual practice.. Understandable in the absence of PVA and CA..
  14. Gregory
    For most modeling purposes, 'treenailing' is for effect rather than fastening. It is a convention that has evolved in wood ship modeling with no basis in accurate depiction for anything less than the largest of scales such as 1:24 and beyond. With veneer or otherwise, when actual planking processes are not reasonably followed, with regard to plank length and butt placement, the attractiveness of simulating treenailing rapidly diminishes.
  15. Gregory
    The acrylic is a brilliant idea.. I will have to try that myself unless you make them available aside from the project in your store. How long before that is copied by another kit maker?
  16. Gregory
    Can anyone point me to the currently available plastic glues of the solvent ( they dissolve plastic ) type? When I look for plastic glue I can't seem to find the one's that specifically do this. I get a lot of hits for CA.. Not what I'm looking for.. Many of them even say they are " non toxic " .. I don't think that will get the job done..😁
  17. Gregory
    That would send me running..
  18. Gregory
    You might just try making a mark with the point of a pin then a bit of pencil.. Give it a light sanding and give it another coat of poly.
  19. Gregory
    A little late for that at this point. When I said " treenailing " I was speaking of the effect that was achieved on the model as it sits, and continuing the effect on the forecastle, with the simulated treenails at the ends of the planks. Right or wrong, it boils down to what the modeler is trying to accomplish.
  20. Gregory
    If you are treenailing the main deck, why not the forecastle?
  21. Gregory
    I think white of almost any shade would be distracting. Your build has a bit of antique look, which is a look I favor, so I think the sails would look good with a sort of old ivory look. Very light and subtle. You're the artist so use your judgement.
  22. Gregory
    That's the take away for me.. I'm sure the average non model builder, in the absence of visible anchors, would be saying " where are those anchor thingies? "
  23. Gregory
    @Ian_Grant Thanks Ian.. Looks like I was not paying attention.. Gregory
  24. Gregory
    Gets my vote, with satin varnish.
  25. Gregory
    I looked a little closer in the book.. What is labeled as sheet on p. 49 - 50 for the fore course, are actually clew lines. They are correctly labeled on 51 for the main sail. The lines through the sheaves on the bitts, would logically be tied off on the bitts.

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