Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order.
×
Gregory
-
Posts
3,089 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Gregory
-
How to follow a forum?
Gregory replied to John Ruy's topic in Using the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT IN THIS SUB-FORUM**
At the top of each forum is a follow button. Click on it to have the option to follow that forum.
-
The hard part is finding a suitable place where the joint is not obvious. As I showed above, I did the square part above the cross trees separate. Not a lot of help with the total length. I also made the top mast in two pieces. Again not much help with total length, but helps with the really small part that is easier to break. It's easier doing the yards, as you can hide the joint with battens, rigging or paint. Let me know if I can provide a little more detail.
-
Great start for a first time effort... It's how you find what works for you..
-
Another option you might consider.. I glue my planks with white glue onto thin paper like tracing paper. Ready to be glued onto the false deck. The main deck in progress. I feel its easier to correct mistakes and make adjustments. Finished off the ship. Finished in place. I then glue the whole thing onto the false deck in place on the ship with yellow wood glue. It takes a few minutes of smoothing and pressure because there is a tendency for ripples to form. The yellow glue will start grabbing within 10 -15 minutes, but there is plenty of time to make adjustments.
-
I hope you will share your build with us. Based on your carving skills, it should prove to be an exceptional endeavor.
-
Some may think starting with a kit is doing things the hard way, but that is what the majority of our build logs consist of. Unfortunately, dowels are what are provided for masting in all kits that I am aware of. Understandably, most kit builders who are just breaking into this hobby are not keen on making the additional investment in suitable square stock. Many may take this approach if they stay with the hobby long enough, but first, lets help them out with what they are challenged with as beginners. Dowels, while presenting some challenges, are fairly easy to turn into square or other sections as needed. They are particularly easy to turn into smaller round sections.
-
I use a combination of both filing and spinning with a drill ( no lathe ) .. Take care to sand out the circular marks from spinning. I also break what would be one long piece into two or more pieces, because smaller pieces are easier to work with. Arrows point to separate parts of main and topmast. This also makes it easier to mount some of the rigging elements before putting it all together. I also like to split up yards into two pieces while finishing. Makes it easier to taper from the fat end to the skinny end. I turned this: Into this: While I cut my blanks with a laser, you can do the same with square stock. Which is not to say the same thing can't be accomplished with round stock, and just as easily IMO..
-
Try taking a small nail and hammering it square.. Pushing it into a round hole will square the hole.
-
That really looks good!
-
Jim pretty much covered it, but here is a picture of how Chuck makes rings. He is using a saw, which leaves a cleaner cut.. I just use some small flush cutters. Not as clean a cut, but whose checking..
-
It's one of those things that can be nagging if one worries about ' historical accuracy '.. I'm of the " If it looks good, it is good. " school.. I'm not going to fret over a mm, but I found no documentation of a 6 pdr being less than 6 ft. I have the Hahn plans which also have the cannon at about 5 ft.. I was just looking for some 6 pdr barrels for my 1:48 project, and going by the MS plans I was coming closer to 30mm than the 37 mm that would scale closer to 6 ft at 1:48 .. The 6 pdrs for the AOTS Blandford are 7ft 6" not counting the cascable. They look a little top heavy to me, sitting on the carriage. Lavery in ' Arming and Fitting-' says they could be from 6ft to 9 ft 6" according to the 1703 establishments. I think the 30mm barells look good at 1:64 and I am comfortable scaling those up to ~ 37 for 1:48.
-
I don't think you could go wrong by staying with the CC as it is.. The curve looks better IMO.
-
I just to clarify, are those the cannon that are 1 11/64" long - 29.75 mm ? That would scale to a little over 6 ft at 1:64, and sounds reasonable. I was looking at the measurements on the MS plans and they scaled to around 5 feet which did not sound right.
-
This may be a bit premature considering I'm sort of stalled on my Resolution, which is about 95% done, but I'm hoping to soon start a scratch build of Rattlesnake with the MS plans. It's going to be an upscale at 1:48. I think it will be a nice project to jump into a little CNC carving. The NMM plans, that I linked to above, have a lot to add to the possible detail of the carvings, and there are some 1:48 add-ons that I am thinking about, like the Winchelsea Capstan and the MS 26ft longboat.
-
Question About Glue for Plastic
Gregory replied to Gregory's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Just what I was looking for.. Thanks for all the great replies.. For some reason I hadn't flagged this for replies so I didn't realize I had any answers. -
I understand that. There are no actual drawings of the Bounty stern that I am aware of. The replica and the Caldercraft rendition compares well to several renditions that are out there, including the AOTS book. I was just suggesting the carvings could be moved onto the transom where they would blend in with the other ornate work with good effect. I of course respect your decision in the matter.. As I said, you have a very respectable build going.
-
scale rope and thread storage (shop talk)
Gregory replied to Dave_E's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Funny you should ask.. Most of my rope that I make is about 40 inches long, and I have found if I wind it on spools it is really hard to get the curves out if I don't use it right away. I just double it and hang loosely from this wire shelf.
-
Steering gear on the Charles F Morgan
Gregory replied to Barbara's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Does this help? ( click on the arrow in the upper right corner )- 1 reply
-
- 2
-
-
Some pictures of what the problem is would help with making suggestions regarding repairing.
-
A very nice model you have going. It might be nice if you refine some of your details.. The quarter galleries look a little strange.. The window panes look odd.. Also some of the transom decorations look out of place.. Compare to this:
-
I would give ModelExpo more than a day..
-
Planking glues
Gregory replied to ChiefCarr's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Which would indicate it was a matter of fastening rather than modeling actual practice.. Understandable in the absence of PVA and CA.. -
Planking glues
Gregory replied to ChiefCarr's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
For most modeling purposes, 'treenailing' is for effect rather than fastening. It is a convention that has evolved in wood ship modeling with no basis in accurate depiction for anything less than the largest of scales such as 1:24 and beyond. With veneer or otherwise, when actual planking processes are not reasonably followed, with regard to plank length and butt placement, the attractiveness of simulating treenailing rapidly diminishes. -
The acrylic is a brilliant idea.. I will have to try that myself unless you make them available aside from the project in your store. How long before that is copied by another kit maker?
- 1,784 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
Can anyone point me to the currently available plastic glues of the solvent ( they dissolve plastic ) type? When I look for plastic glue I can't seem to find the one's that specifically do this. I get a lot of hits for CA.. Not what I'm looking for.. Many of them even say they are " non toxic " .. I don't think that will get the job done..😁
Our Emblem ®
