Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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This kit is on my soon to do list, and seeing where others go astray and how they overcame it, is a great learning experience. Not everyone is willing to share their 'mistakes' in a meaningful way. You have a great build going.- 155 replies
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- Medway Longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Looks right-side up to me.. The X might be upside down..😀
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Short of replacing a plank, I would fill with a sliver of wood and sand flush.. Will not be visible on the upright model.
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Just in case you didn't notice, the Cheerful kit only includes the bulkheads, keel parts and framework, including the full set of plans. It requires a lot of scratch work or additional mini kits for cannon, windless, gratings and such. It requires additional wood for decking, planking and masting. It is a great project when you are ready to do a lot of scratch work.
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I would back fill the holes with some kind of scrap. Just something to provide a base to lay in some filler. Scrap paper should even work..
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Dominoff Serving machine
Gregory replied to Don Quixote's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The Rope Walk makes rope.. I don't think the server can do that, unless he has some kind of combo machine I am unaware of.. -
Looking for a good "starter" pin vise set
Gregory replied to Capella's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
As I would expect them to do. But, to continue to be argumentative, I have a genuine Dremel keyless chuck 0-1/8 that runs true as a judge for $12. The Knock offs are 2 for $12 .. I have no doubt that the Staretts are very fine tools, but I am not inclined to by a Rolex just because I need to know the time..😀 -
Dave, I have heard this may be a good source for slitting blades in UK MSC Industrial Supply I find their catalog a little difficult to navigate because they have so many products, but they would probably respond to an email with the specs you are looking for - arbor, diameter, kerf & etc..
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I think Dave was just using the oak for a jig...
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I should mention, that blade has a relatively large kerf, and will not be good for thin strips.. Too much waste.
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Not sure I recognize what blades you are using. You might check out something like this from Amazon UK, which I believe will work on the FET.. Silverline 876132 TCT Mini Saw Blade 85 mm Dia - 10 mm Bore - 20T
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That looks very good.. Poor cannon rigging could spoil an otherwise great model, but yours is in no danger of doing that.. Your gun rigging sets a fine example that others may wish to follow.. PS In this image, if I didn't know better, I would think I am looking down the deck of a real ship.
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I think that is a great decision.. Too many kits never get finished because the builder gets overwhelmed with " what is proper".. Gaining experience and knowledge will be your greatest reward. I hope you will share some of your work in the future..
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Beautiful worK! Just a thought about working the pumps.. Would the pump handlers be at the same point of the cycle/stroke, or might they be 180 degrees out? i.e. two pushing while two pull.
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Reading closer, I believe you are correct!
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I wonder where on a wood ship you could avoid that problem? ( If it was a problem. ) FWIW, Lavery says the brick hearth was in disuse after 1757, but those bricks look more cool on a model..😀
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Wood Filler
Gregory replied to Randy1962's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Could you splice in some mahogany plank pieces in a way to blend them in with the existing planking? The balsa glue sounds like the problem.. You might try some thinned white glue with mahogany dust.. -
Perhaps I should check before writing this, but can't get to my Lees' before tonight, but doesn't Lees just refer to dates and not the size of the ship? So in this case we would be looking at 1787 for Bounty and 1785 for Melampus. The main thing to keep in mind about the Peterson book is that he documented what he observed on a model, and can only be considered reliable when compared to a reliable source such as Lees'. What I like about Petersson is that there is an index with every line on the ship, which you can easily find in the book, and then compare with another source if need be. Another point for the Petersson book is that he documents all the belaying points, which again, are only accurate as far as the model goes.
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I don't see Bligh going anomalous on us...😀
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Nice Bounty Tim I was reluctant to open up a can of worms by suggesting the block tackles on the bob stays are wrong for the period. Hopefully John will find there is a lot of help available here..
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This is the basic run of a single/double tackle.. The hooks might not be present for your purposes. The stropping of the blocks might be simplified for the purpose of a model. The noose is a simplified version of how it is tied to the stem.. Actual practice would have been some type of splice and seizings.. A book like Historic Ship Models would be a lot of help with some basic rigging.. During a specific time period, how things were seized and tied off would not have changed a lot.. For the purpose of modeling, just making it look neat is a good place to start. Not sure what you are referring to, unless it is the running end of the tackle.. It would be handled similar to the lanyard on a deadeye arrangement..
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Would be a nice touch.. It is shown for Royal Caroline in the AOTS book.
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Looking for a good "starter" pin vise set
Gregory replied to Capella's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
That should work.. Just a matter of getting it threaded.. The chuck on this pin vise is about the same size.. I agree the jaws should be steel.. Just as a test I was able to ding the jaws on mine with a diamond tip scribe, but it didn't seem to penetrate as much as I would expect for aluminum.. These on amazon say they are carbon steel.. Good deal at 2 for $10.49 I would like to acknowledge at this point, that a possible downside to the chuck, is that it would be a little more crowding in tight spaces than a traditional pin vise. -
Looking for a good "starter" pin vise set
Gregory replied to Capella's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I'm a little challenged when it comes to small diameters, in that I just have to eye ball it after .5 mm or so. I see that #80 should be .0135. This little 3 jaw chuck closes essentially to .000, so the #80 shouldn't be a problem.. Here is some copper wire that is about .01, and it's not going anywhere unless it comes out smaller than it went in. I think you would be surprised at the quality of these. Chances are a lot of different 'Brands' are coming from the same factory, the one I have doesn't seem to be available at Amazon right now, but any similar one should do as well. PS Just noticed the specs say this is made of aluminum, so I guess long term durability could be an issue. I don't see any noticeable wear after over a year, but I mostly use the 1/8 shank micro bits..
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Looking for a good "starter" pin vise set
Gregory replied to Capella's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Is there some reason why you feel I am not competent to judge the quality of this tool I am holding in my hand? I need a good reason to spend $100 for a tool that is not as versatile or any better made than a $20 tool. I judge a tool by it's ability to do the work I want to do, and a quality that means I don't expect to have to replace it any time soon. I would have been real disappointed if I had spent $100 on a set of Starretts and subsequently found this tool for $20.
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