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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. Gregory
    Looks as good as any coppering job I have ever seen!
  2. Gregory
    Then that makes it difficult for anyone to provide advice about how it should be done with regard to common/actual practice. It’s not just a matter of historical accuracy it’s also a matter how the rigging works efficiently for the control of the sails and the men handling the ropes. The basic principles haven’t changed for hundreds of years.
  3. Gregory
    Determining how the falls were arranged at the bitts is a moot point if that is not where they should be. Referring to what TBlack said above regarding bowlines, clews and sheets , I’m pretty sure the bowlines ran forward to the bowsprit then back to the forecastle area. The sheets rove through sheaves In the bulwarks then to kevels or cleats on the bulwarks. I’ll have to re-visit the clews.
  4. Gregory
    Thanks for replying. Well, Lees is a little complicated, or at least a little longwinded for me to quote everything here. I would like to see what others have to say before I get too deep into quoting Lees. My cursory reading doesn't show as may lines going to the bitts as I see here. I noticed in looking at the pictures of the prototype It doesn't appear there are as many lines leading down to the bitts as in the images up above. Your plan view appears to have fewer lines also.
  5. Gregory
    Can you name some of these lines? No one has bothered to do this so far. With that information we might be able to find out more about how they should be rigged.
  6. Gregory
    I'm still curious as to what some of those lines are. I can't imagine a lot of working lines wrapped around the bitts like that, regardless of where the extra rope would lay.
  7. Gregory
    It would be interesting to know what some of those lines are and what something like Lees' has to say about them.
  8. Gregory
    What are the notable differences?
  9. Gregory
    For modeling, I think it has a lot to do with the look you are going for, with nice proportions rather than precise measurements. A lot of modelers may not have the tools or desire to make their own, so it is good to be able find an acceptable source. Some of these are not like the others. The pins on the left are from Falkonet while the ones on the right are typical kit pins and what you find in a lot of retail outlets. The kit pins can be chucked up in a Dremel and made a lot better, but I have found that getting uniformity can be a challenge.
  10. Gregory
    Since someone brought it up: Here is what Longridge drew in " The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships ".. Note the 'Note'.. P.S. I believe the drawing is by George F. Campbell
  11. Gregory
    I really like the look of the new Syren blocks, but I have a lot of the old wood ones
  12. Gregory
    I don't' think you can go wrong by looking at Chuck's Cheerful. Look through the log for more details. Also, all of the Cheerful rigging is available on the Syren Web site. Revenue Cutter Cheerful 1806 Another great log is from Thukydides He has posted an index to his build so it is easy to find the various steps. PS I just noticed Alert shrouds don't use the cross trees and trestle trees. So you should feel confident following Goodwin and Thukydides.
  13. Gregory
    You and me both. But look at him as the teacher and not the competition. It might help, but they had no more to go on than the drawing I posted above. Just give it your bet shot, you are doing great so far.
  14. Gregory
    While there are some real nice printed parts, I'm reluctant to go down that road for most parts in model sailing ship building. I like working with wood, and I don't like to paint, which is required for most printed parts.
  15. Gregory
    I hope you don't think I'm talking about piracy. I'm talking about making replacement parts for personal use from a kit or plans I own.. Typically to replace some parts with better wood like box or pear. The laser is also great for cutting out spiled planks. Being able to buy laser files from a kit maker would make it all that easier for a pirate to do their thing.
  16. Gregory
    I can see kit makers being reluctant to sell their files, however if you already have a kit, its pretty easy to scan a part or plan and make an image that LightBurn will convert to .SVG I do this already with kits and plans.
  17. Gregory
    I would be interested in seeing it also. What kind of blade do you use? I haven’t found a table saw blade with a small enough kerf that I can justify using on expensive wood like pear.
  18. Gregory
    You might consider looking at some other builds beside Rattlesnake for the head rails. I think Winchelsea is a good choice because you can see how Chuck designed the parts. The main elements are not that different.
  19. Gregory
    I think that sounds like a good plan.
  20. Gregory
    It's a little early for anyone to answer your questions. The kit was just released, and I haven't seen that anyone here has acquired one.
  21. Gregory
    Cherry.
  22. Gregory
    Why is it banned? We don't ban kits just because they are of Chinese origin. Do we know it is a knock off of another kit? I didn't see another match.
  23. Gregory
    On 2nd look, has a lot more bulkheads than the Mamoli kit. Still looks like a similar design. I found this which looks like a good match. Free Shipping Scale 1/80 The Dutch Royal Yacht Wooden Model + Brass Upgrade Parts+ Alloy Anchor - Model Building Kits - AliExpress
  24. Gregory
    Looks like Mamoli kit Mary. Check the link in my signature..
  25. Gregory
    I like the Artesania oak. It reminds me of a shade called “golden oak “. I’m not seeing much difference across the sapele’s and walnuts. I think it’s a matter of what you prefer. Because of the differences in display devices, we will all be seeing different shades. You will see as much variation across actual pieces of wood.

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