Gregory

I have just plunged down the rabbit hole again, trying to learn how sails were put together. After reading through eighteen books describing sail making, I have concluded that whatever one author says another will disagree with it!
 
All agree that since the middle ages sails have been constructed with parallel cloth strips (cloths) that are sewn together. How they were sewn together and how wide the overlap of the cloths was is not always agreed upon. But most authors agree that for the last several centuries in Europe and America in most cases the cloth width was 24 inches.
 
Everyone says the edges of sails were lined with a bolt rope for added strength, and amazingly every author says the bolt ropes were attached to the port side of fore-and-aft sails and the aft side of square sails. This was the only thing they all agreed on!
 
The outer edges of the sail cloths (head, foot, leech and luff) were folded over and seamed (hemmed) for added strength. This was called tabling. Most agree on this, but which side of the sail was the tabling folded to? Almost none of the books say which side! The few authors that dare to venture a guess seem to agree that the tabling was on the after side of square sails. Some say the tabling was on the port side of fore-and-aft sails, but one author says it was on the starboard side (mainly on modern British racing yachts).
 
Some parts of sails were strengthened with extra cloth pieces called linings (although a few authors also call tablings linings). Most agree that linings were on the face of square sails (the opposite side from the tablings). Some say linings were on the port side of fore-and-aft sails (along with the tablings and bolt rope).
 
The reef bands were sewn to the forward side of square sails and to the starboard side of fore-and-aft sails. But one author claims reef bands were sewn on both sides of the sail. Another says reef bands were sewn under the leech linings. But if the reef bands are on the starboard side of a sail that means the linings must also be on the starboard side, and not on the port!
 
You have to love it when one author says white is black, and another says black is white. And which end of the egg do you crack first anyway?
 
*****
 
And now there is Phil's way!
 
On square sails the tablings are on the aft side and the linings and reef bands are on the forward side. On larger ships bunt cloths and additional reinforcing bands are on the fore side. The top lining (to prevent chafing against the mast tops) is on the aft side along the foot of the sail.
 
For fore-and-aft sails the tablings and linings are on opposite sides like the square sails. Tablings are on the port side, Linings and reef bands are on the starboard.
 
Now I can get on with making the sails for the model!

Hopefully you will take the advice to look at the references given .
 

Here is another example from Chuck's Cheerful.  The green line shows where the first two planks next to the keel are.  The first plank next to the keel is the garboard, and you may want to look at  Thukydides reference for establishing the garboard plank.  I also discounted the next plank because it doesn't lend itself to measuring a width where it meets the stem.  You will have to try to achieve the look you see on those two planks and taper them accordingly.
The red line is the distance you will measure to determine the width of the planks at the bow.
If you measure the red line to be 55mm, then would divide 55 by 18 to get 3.05 mm for the width of your planks at the red line.
Since your number may be something that is really hard to measure for cutting, such as 3.05 mm, then you may want to use just 3mm ( just an example as your actual number will probably be different ), and have one or two planks a little bigger.
You could just fit them in at the end.
 
Unless you follow the planking practices you have been given, you will not have an easy time achieving something like the picture above.   
 
Look at the many build logs for Cheerful and Alert.   The planking details may not be well documented in all of them, but it will be in a few like the one Thukydides pointed you to.
 

Hopefully you will take the advice to look at the references given .
 

Here is another example from Chuck's Cheerful.  The green line shows where the first two planks next to the keel are.  The first plank next to the keel is the garboard, and you may want to look at  Thukydides reference for establishing the garboard plank.  I also discounted the next plank because it doesn't lend itself to measuring a width where it meets the stem.  You will have to try to achieve the look you see on those two planks and taper them accordingly.
The red line is the distance you will measure to determine the width of the planks at the bow.
If you measure the red line to be 55mm, then would divide 55 by 18 to get 3.05 mm for the width of your planks at the red line.
Since your number may be something that is really hard to measure for cutting, such as 3.05 mm, then you may want to use just 3mm ( just an example as your actual number will probably be different ), and have one or two planks a little bigger.
You could just fit them in at the end.
 
Unless you follow the planking practices you have been given, you will not have an easy time achieving something like the picture above.   
 
Look at the many build logs for Cheerful and Alert.   The planking details may not be well documented in all of them, but it will be in a few like the one Thukydides pointed you to.
 

Hopefully you will take the advice to look at the references given .
 

Here is another example from Chuck's Cheerful.  The green line shows where the first two planks next to the keel are.  The first plank next to the keel is the garboard, and you may want to look at  Thukydides reference for establishing the garboard plank.  I also discounted the next plank because it doesn't lend itself to measuring a width where it meets the stem.  You will have to try to achieve the look you see on those two planks and taper them accordingly.
The red line is the distance you will measure to determine the width of the planks at the bow.
If you measure the red line to be 55mm, then would divide 55 by 18 to get 3.05 mm for the width of your planks at the red line.
Since your number may be something that is really hard to measure for cutting, such as 3.05 mm, then you may want to use just 3mm ( just an example as your actual number will probably be different ), and have one or two planks a little bigger.
You could just fit them in at the end.
 
Unless you follow the planking practices you have been given, you will not have an easy time achieving something like the picture above.   
 
Look at the many build logs for Cheerful and Alert.   The planking details may not be well documented in all of them, but it will be in a few like the one Thukydides pointed you to.
 

Only the swivel guns to go to finish Chapter 11. A quick update on what was the long process of adding the chain plates to fix the deadeyes to the channels. Basically a lot of holes to drill in a straight, level, and angled lines.

Another exercise in patience, planning. placing, and adjusting each of the three mast sections of channels and deadeyes

I am a big fan of the acrylic strops and chainplates - so much easier and such a much better look than fighting through their metal equivalents. I’m not going back.

I also had a new opportunity to make many eyelets along the hull following the plans. At this point the twist around the drill bit in the vice and the cut, snip, fit is mindless, easy work. Maybe someday I’ll count how many I’ve made for Winchelsea - or maybe not.

The model is transformed with these additions - looking completely like a ship at this point (don’t look at the stem, that’s Chapter 12). It’s really quite something. I'm going to take some better photos after I finish Chpt 11. I still haven't glued in the remaining guns, but that's coming up soon.
 
Thanks for stopping by - some swivel guns are up next.

As @druxey said read the article. Between that and the videos from Chuck previously linked in the thread they should answer all of your questions.
 
If you need some further discussion of how to fit the garboard plank (the bottom most plank) I discuss my thought process in my alert log from the perspective of a first time builder (log# 12). I also in previous logs show how I line off the alert hull which is a very similar shape to sherbourne.

Please read the planking tutorial:
 
chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf
 
It will answer all your questions!

Use a piece of string, then measure the string with a ruler.
Divide the length of the string by the number of planks used to cover a midship bulkhead.
 
Here is a post I made about tapering planks from mid ship to bow.  Your measurements should be different than my example.
 
 

Use a piece of string, then measure the string with a ruler.
Divide the length of the string by the number of planks used to cover a midship bulkhead.
 
Here is a post I made about tapering planks from mid ship to bow.  Your measurements should be different than my example.
 
 

Go to Windows search and type " snipping tool "..
 
You can copy any part of the screen you are looking at.  It goes to the clip-board, so you can paste it directly into the discussion.
You can edit in "Paint", or do whatever you like.
Even though it's telling you to press all those keys, all you really need to do is press Ctr+N..
 
 

You don’t have the “Snipping Tool”?

One of the images at the web site apparently serves as the instruction…

Do you have any illustration of what you mean by this?
 
It's basically a matter  of dividing the space available by the number of planks.
Have you looked at the planking videos by Chuck?   They show how to get a better fit of the planks by 'edge bending'.
 
 
Sometimes a " drop plank " at the bow will help you avoid planks that become too narrow at the stem.

A drop plank reduces two planks to one.  The problem with doing this with a kit is that it requires wider stock than the basic planking stock, so it may not be practical with the kit you are building.
You should be able to work around this by just making the ends of the planking more narrow than the drop plank would provide.
I assume we are talking bout the Sherbourne you are building, so I think you could get some ideas by looking at Chuck's Cheerful. The lines are very similar.
It is a single plank model, but the run of the planking will be much the same as your 2nd planking on the Sherbourne.
Chuck has the instructions for Cheerful at his Syren Ship Model Co. Here is a link to Chapter 4 which covers the planking below the wales.
 
 

Do you have any illustration of what you mean by this?
 
It's basically a matter  of dividing the space available by the number of planks.
Have you looked at the planking videos by Chuck?   They show how to get a better fit of the planks by 'edge bending'.
 
 
Sometimes a " drop plank " at the bow will help you avoid planks that become too narrow at the stem.

A drop plank reduces two planks to one.  The problem with doing this with a kit is that it requires wider stock than the basic planking stock, so it may not be practical with the kit you are building.
You should be able to work around this by just making the ends of the planking more narrow than the drop plank would provide.
I assume we are talking bout the Sherbourne you are building, so I think you could get some ideas by looking at Chuck's Cheerful. The lines are very similar.
It is a single plank model, but the run of the planking will be much the same as your 2nd planking on the Sherbourne.
Chuck has the instructions for Cheerful at his Syren Ship Model Co. Here is a link to Chapter 4 which covers the planking below the wales.
 
 

Progress on the hull.
Post 2
 
The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom.

4751
This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise.
 
Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash.

4762
With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed.
I use Vallejo surface primer.
 
In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes.
The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary.
I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats.
 
Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted.

4766
It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull.

4763
The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood.
 
This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion.
This was applied over the base and dry brushed.
 
With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved.

4769

4772
The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory.

4779

4784
Onto the internal fittings.
 
B.E.
23/05/2024
 

Here is one of my favorite references for making blocks from Mondfeld.  I had just about got to the point of going forward with this method when Chuck started selling his blocks.
 

You can see that taking it down to very small size is possible.
If you have a small table saw, i.e., Proxxon, Byrnes, etc.,  it will really help with the grooves..
 

Do you have any illustration of what you mean by this?
 
It's basically a matter  of dividing the space available by the number of planks.
Have you looked at the planking videos by Chuck?   They show how to get a better fit of the planks by 'edge bending'.
 
 
Sometimes a " drop plank " at the bow will help you avoid planks that become too narrow at the stem.

A drop plank reduces two planks to one.  The problem with doing this with a kit is that it requires wider stock than the basic planking stock, so it may not be practical with the kit you are building.
You should be able to work around this by just making the ends of the planking more narrow than the drop plank would provide.
I assume we are talking bout the Sherbourne you are building, so I think you could get some ideas by looking at Chuck's Cheerful. The lines are very similar.
It is a single plank model, but the run of the planking will be much the same as your 2nd planking on the Sherbourne.
Chuck has the instructions for Cheerful at his Syren Ship Model Co. Here is a link to Chapter 4 which covers the planking below the wales.
 
 

Do you have any illustration of what you mean by this?
 
It's basically a matter  of dividing the space available by the number of planks.
Have you looked at the planking videos by Chuck?   They show how to get a better fit of the planks by 'edge bending'.
 
 
Sometimes a " drop plank " at the bow will help you avoid planks that become too narrow at the stem.

A drop plank reduces two planks to one.  The problem with doing this with a kit is that it requires wider stock than the basic planking stock, so it may not be practical with the kit you are building.
You should be able to work around this by just making the ends of the planking more narrow than the drop plank would provide.
I assume we are talking bout the Sherbourne you are building, so I think you could get some ideas by looking at Chuck's Cheerful. The lines are very similar.
It is a single plank model, but the run of the planking will be much the same as your 2nd planking on the Sherbourne.
Chuck has the instructions for Cheerful at his Syren Ship Model Co. Here is a link to Chapter 4 which covers the planking below the wales.
 
 

Do you have any illustration of what you mean by this?
 
It's basically a matter  of dividing the space available by the number of planks.
Have you looked at the planking videos by Chuck?   They show how to get a better fit of the planks by 'edge bending'.
 
 
Sometimes a " drop plank " at the bow will help you avoid planks that become too narrow at the stem.

A drop plank reduces two planks to one.  The problem with doing this with a kit is that it requires wider stock than the basic planking stock, so it may not be practical with the kit you are building.
You should be able to work around this by just making the ends of the planking more narrow than the drop plank would provide.
I assume we are talking bout the Sherbourne you are building, so I think you could get some ideas by looking at Chuck's Cheerful. The lines are very similar.
It is a single plank model, but the run of the planking will be much the same as your 2nd planking on the Sherbourne.
Chuck has the instructions for Cheerful at his Syren Ship Model Co. Here is a link to Chapter 4 which covers the planking below the wales.
 
 

Such "fancy" detail is appropriate on showboats like yachts and royal barges. It is probably too gaudy for more pedestrian work boats.
 
But for a model it depends upon what you are trying to do. It would be inappropriate for a model that is supposed to be faithful to the original vessel (unless the original had the same designs as the inlay). But for a display model that is intended to be more decorative than authentic it certainly is OK. It all depends upon what you want to achieve.
 
It's your model, so do what you like!

'Visible layers...'  It took a lot of effort to photograph the blocks with enough magnification to reveal the layers. My eyes with spectacles and a magnifying glass could not see them and at a 30cm / 1 foot viewing distance with naked eye the layers are irrelevant. Tomasz, save your money, the resolution on your existing printer is quite good enough for this model maker. 
What I would like for the future is some 3D printed cleats, especially shroud cleats which are difficult to fashion from wood. 
 
George

Welcome.
 
Start with something small and inexpensive.  Open boat, fishing boat, a single mast at the most.  Something that can be quickly finished.  Check the post about those who start big projects and never finish.
 
 
Good luck with it….

Nice idea, SHJ, but no! The beams below the stachions and rail at the ends of forecastle and quarter deck were called the breast beams.

Welcome to MSW B
It would be great if you posted a little intro in the new members forum as well.
What model are you building?  If you start a build log you could get a lot of helpful suggestions on work arounds and thus get more sleep😀
Allan
 

@Thukydides
Thank you for your nice comment, and everyone else for the many LIKES.
 
 
Equipment of the main royal yard – Vergue de grand cacatois
The royal yards are on the 4th floor of the rigging. Since these yards on the La Créole were obviously equipped with lifts and braces, it can be assumed that they were already an integral part of the ship's rigging. In contrast, until the end of the 18th century, the royal sails were often hoisted together with the yards and flown as fair-weather sails only when necessary, i.e. without braces and lifts.
To carry out the tyes for the royal yards of La Créole, I have photos of the original model at my disposal, which a restorer from the Musée de la Marine in Paris kindly photographed in the depot especially for me.
You can't see much in the following picture of a royal yard of the Paris model, except that the tye is somehow knotted and doesn't have a hook like that of the togallant yards.
 

Source: Musée national de la Marine de Paris – La Créole
 
Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime

In conjunction with the depiction of a royal yard from the Atlas du Génie Maritime and various other examples, the tyes may have looked like this.
 

 
My model implementation or interpretation of the tye ø 17 mm (ø 0.35 mm in model scale) for the main royal yard looks like this:


Next I made the parral. The royal yards receive a slightly simpler version of a parral, only served with ropes, without leather covering.


This was followed by the production of the single blocks for the royal yards. These were used to guide the clew lines - The clew lines for the main royal sail had a diameter of 11 mm (in the model scale ø 0.23 mm), accordingly the blocks were around 13.5 cm long (in the model scale approx. 2.8 mm) according to the table in the monograph .



After attaching the grommets as abrasion protection, the equipment of the main royal yard was completed by attaching the braces and lifts.

We then continue with the fore royal yard.
Sequel follows …