OllieS

If you flex the deck so it is concave with edges going up it will inevitably get stuck like a monkey with its fist in a jar of nuts.

I think James H meant flexing the deck the other way with the edges lower than the middle, then it will easily lift out by bending slightly more.

25 minutes ago, allanyed said:

That one threw me so I looked it up and it is what we in the US call dollar stores.  NOT a place to find ship models or ship model kits. Their ads show finished models for the same price as kits, what's up with that?

Allan

You may also not know that we have a social problem with homeless unemployed (and employed unfortunately) who camp out in shop doorways amongst other places.

That was of course a joke.

In reality a genuine site has been hijacked and altered is my guess. In Britain the website would be co.uk not .com 

The head office is a Poundland in Inverness Scotland.

Presumably the CEO is sitting in the doorway.

From what everyone has said it seems likely that the use of wales has evolved as the (gun)deck sheer became less pronounced

Another point is that they may have had a predominant importance during construction to hold the framework before planking and gunports etc

It also makes sense to me that the outer planking follows the wales just because it's so much easier to do.

On 11/17/2023 at 3:59 PM, georgeband said:

 

.....The 8" circumference translates to a model diameter of 1mm.

The ropes for anchors were generally cables (or cablets if they are small) which have a left hand lay unlike most ropes which are right handed. Most people do not notice the difference but model making pedants want it to be correct. This might be the time to build a rope walk, or stow the anchors without any rope tied to the ring. Can anyone recommend a supplier for  1mm diameter rope with a left hand twist?...

 

Ropes of Scale presumably have what you want. Their link is one of the side panel sponsors below recent replies here on MSW

I have spent the last 18 months trying to turn the Occre Revenge into something I'm happy with using Amati builds on this site and the Kirsch Galleon book.

With hindsight it would have been a lot simpler and quicker to buy the Amati kit, but that would have been a different occupation. It really depends what you want from your hobby i.e. more or less of an out-of-the-box build. I also agree that if you want sails you really need to make your own.

Another great resource is Baker's Pelican build log on this site by the way.

This is not a model boat problem. iI's just another example of a the universal human problem which is the creation of the mental obstacle of perfection.

You can't scale it, all you can do is keep going upwards at an angle to the slope you can cope with. It also helps to switch to another part of the same project to change the mood. Many people switch to a different project but this doesn't solve the initial problem.

I don't have this model but hope this helps:

1. The lower shrouds are in pairs and in reality are looped around the mast one side pair  and then the other. An easier modellers way is to pair through the platform one on each side as shown in the Occre Enduance video 61. on youtube.

2. Looks like those holes are just holes and nothing to do with the rigging.

3. Stays and shrouds then running rigging. You will make life easier if you do the ratlines after. You can then access ropes for belaying etc through the shrouds.

Occre instructions mostly leave you to it at the rigging stage The belaying plan is the most useful diagram but it really helps if you have some understanding of what the various ropes are for. You will by the time you've finished. Good luck  

1 hour ago, Kevin said:

 

 

1/48 or 1/64?

An impossible choice

On the Jotika website there is some information on the research for Pickle which suggests a longer gundeck for the plans used which are closer to the (presumably accurate) Pickle length of 73 feet rather than what has already been mentioned above: Pickle

How that relates to the kit and plans you have...?

Book looks great and a bargain so on my shelf soon.

9 hours ago, ccoyle said:

All I will say about this kit is that the hoopla leading up to its release was all out of proportion to the quality of the kit itself.

There has to be an interpretation of  Occre's motives that makes sense. These people know what they're doing.

The only thing I can come up with is that this kit is aimed at those who happily make an out of the box Occre kit and then move on to the next one.

For those people ie most people, this kit is the upgrade they want. 

....anyway back to my Occre build which is not out of the box  

10 hours ago, mtaylor said:

 I've heard in the past that some companies would scale the model such that parts would fit into a "standard" box they had on hand so they didn't need to pay "retooling costs" for special sized boxes.  And then there's the "standard" (so-called) size for hobby shop shelves.    These could all be urban myths but I do have to wonder.

Also maybe standard wood sheets for laser cutting. You can just see someone setting the scale on the cutter to nicely fit the blank. 

Suddenly all those strange scales make sense: 1:46 Pilar; 1:54 Endeavour; 1:85 Revenge etc. Mamoli do the same thing. 

Given a choice I would prefer a standard scale to make a pleasing comparison between a collection of models like Vanguard's or Caldecraft's1:64

Best Box btw

So a partial POF with some better components of  Victory..

I admire Occre for doing this.

Anything that extends the hobby has to be a good thing and they are very active compared to others.

I would be very interested to see an independant unboxing and kit review.

I went to see Victory a couple of years ago. 

Research has been done on the many layers of paint and the colour has changed over time. As a child I remember a nice bright yellow for example.

Now using the latest research scientist have determined the colour in 1805 and painted the ship accordingly. It is a horrible sort of pinkish beige. Nelson didn't like it and asked for some new paint apparently. At the time colours in quantity were very limited i.e. red ochre, yellow ochre, black and white and I'm guessing they were short on yellow.

My next model will be Victory and I intend to use yellow ochre. Nelson would approve

I would say find anything you really want to make (not too expensive, this is just the taster) and then just make it. Like a month or two.

If you really want to make a very good static model then a small kit from Occre, Amati, Vanguard, Model Shipways...

I know Occre but I suspect the best for hand-holding instructions is Vanguard.

People like plastic hulls because they want them to float.

Otherwise you'll have more fun and more choice with (static) wood builds.

They seem very much a different scale probably 1:64

On 9/21/2023 at 11:45 AM, Keith_W said:

Well guys, it looks as if over the past few years MSW has changed. Plastic kit cars seem to get more interest than ship models. It takes time to write these posts, and it seems as if I am only talking to myself. I am signing out now. I will not post any more updates on MSW. I'll let you know when it's done, and that will be that. 

This should not damage your enjoyment of model boats!

The hobby is for you I think. I am very selfish in this regard. Maybe less so in future retirement  

The snapshot was someone's brilliant idea; you stay connected but the model (ling) is King. ...and I must use it myself.

I wonder if for the scale you are using thick paper or card would be so much easier. Both are made of wood.

The Occre hull planks are 2x5mm and the deck planking is .6x5mm

If you really did try to plank the hull with the deck planks that would end badly I would think.

On 8/23/2023 at 9:15 PM, James H said:

 

 

..... One thing I'd like to have seen is the inclusion of a 'grain of rice' LED and some wire and battery clip for illuminating the model as shown, or even a requirements list and illustration as to how the prototype was tackled. That' not even a gripe though...more just me thinking it would've been a nice touch....

 

 

 

 

CAF have 'induction coil LED lamp bead' on their site for $2 each and a 'wire transmission luminous system' , which is a larger induction coil, for $47. This is a great idea and generally useful for modelling -no wires! I haven't seen these mentioned anywhere else. Anyone with skills in electronics could make their own version quite easily I would think.

5 minutes ago, chris watton said:

When designing Revenge, I was in close contact with an expert of this period (I no longer have his details, as this was 15 years ago). Revenge was a very large vessel for her time, and I was told she would have had that upper lateen yard. This is also shown in many contemporary pictures, so I was advised to add it.

Thanks. Perfect advice.

I am trying to decide whether the mizzen mast on my Revenge should have a small lanteen sail above the large lanteen sail. The mast is set up with a top so there is certainly room for one (unlike the bonaventure) but various prints seem to show it on slightly later galleons and in the Kirsch book Galleon but not on earlier Elizabethan ships like the Revenge. So it looks like it wasn't normally used and if it existed then the spar was on the deck not aloft. I think the Amati Revenge does have this spar fitted but I'm not sure I want to follow that. Any help on this would be appreciated  

To add to this:

I have been making my version of the OcCre Revenge for about a year.

I am now fitting shrouds to tops on unstepped masts, in the sense that bits of thread now hang there. Along with the breast stays and the lift blocks tied to the mast (as was the fashion back then). Everything is nicely tamped down and sits tightly in the top with straggley bits below. 

The point being that everyone assumes that if you're building a tiny boat that makes you a tiny boatbuilder.

This is not the case; as a modeller you have the flexibility to make life easier.

Once I have the masts pretty much finished they will be set and  stayed.

As part of that ongoing experiment the sails will then be bent to yards and then the yards fitted. Most of the running rigging will then be set. Finally the shrouds will be set. 

The point of doing this is you get an open deck to rig; then the shrouds get in the way. 

Too much for a comment, sorry!

Your careful style means a great future I would say.

With your precision, thinking outside the box will add a great deal so you will want to read around when you feel like it.

Probably the next one...