S.Coleman
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Everything posted by S.Coleman
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You can get plank strippers where you pull the plank through the device and the adjustable blade will cut to the right size. They are quite handy -
Freezer Paper - an awesome tool
S.Coleman replied to Mahuna's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Similar to baking paper? One side is shiny and the other is textured I think? -
Yes, as long as the first layer has been sanded back to rid of bumps etc. Hollows can be filled in win plaster if need be.
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Have you got any photos of the problem? Maybe then we might be able to help you out a bit more.
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I'm just onto the second layer of planks myself. It's looking good remember to take your time
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1:96th. Get a good amount of detail in that scale for sure. Not really much of a plastic modeler, more into the wooden shipbuilding. But I have built a 1:96 scale Enterprise aircraft carrier and a 1:200 scale Bismark, (both plastic) which I enjoyed. Sorry I never took any photos. Both the ships are in New Zealand at my parents place. Anyway back to your subject, I know one thing about building from plastic that I found handy, and you probaly already know this but paint each part still in the spurs. It makes it easier than trying to paint when it's all asembled. Air brush or spray cans are best for painting plastic kits. Brushed on paint tends to build up and hide some of the details imprinted on plastic parts. Probaly the best advice you will get is DON'T RUSH! Be patient. It defiantly pays off. All the best, hope I have been helpful and most important ENJOY!
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Maybe if your not painting the hull, I'd have to say walnut for the keel. But it is entirely up to you in the end. A nice piece with some strength in it would be good. Good luck.
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Do I need to loft frames?
S.Coleman replied to bandk's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Is there anyway you can use filler blocks instead of extra bulkheads? Just a suggestion. The Bow at the front of the ship and the stern at the back of the ship are the pointy ends -
Can't wait to see it floating. Interesting and different, that is what makes it stand out good work
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Handy tools. I might have to look into making some myself. Thanks
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Maby you might have to drill small holes in the tabs to attach the blocks? The assembly is looking great. Nice and clean work.
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To fix the crack, clean it out and with the same wood type gather a little pile of saw dust. Mix the saw dust with a little bit of diluted PVA glue into a paste. Now smear this into the crack and let it dry. Once dry sand smooth. Just be a little careful when you use the glue if you are going to stain afterwards. Hope this helps
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No compatibility problem with painting over oil based products, A good sanding and preparation over the areas you will paint is a must. That is important. Are you wanting to paint over the stained wood? Maybe just stain the areas that you are not painting to be safe. Hope I have been helpful.
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How to sew sails on your wifes sewing machine
S.Coleman replied to Mirabell61's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The sails have come up great! Nice work. -
I have asked this awhile ago and I got the same answer that Trippwj has given. I use full length strips for the first layer for strength as well. Other than that I don't know any other advantages of this practice.
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Thanks for the feedback, BareHook, I will make up a sample deck and see what results I come up with. Sometimes it's best to do a trial and error with these things before starting the kit. I can imagine some enjoyable time with some bamboo BBQ squewers. I'll look into a draw plate. Thanks guys!
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Love the picture edbardet!! That's interesting and cleaver. Making models about people building ships. You could of started something here
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As I have seen on other build logs, some put in treenails in their deck planking. In the kit by Modelers Shipyard the Perserverance Brig there are no plans to put these in. The scale is 1:48 and I was wondering is this a good scale to model these in the deck? I have not started this build yet but I'm just doing some research and going over the plans. Also I have never modeled treenails before but have seen it done in some of the build logs on this forum. If possible, should I add this detail in being a 1:48th scale model? I know everyone has there own opinions on how they build there kits I just wanted to see what everyone thought.
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Yes the first is a windlass that comes in two pieces and has to be glued together, you only can see half of it in the plans becuses of course that view of the deck is only half view. as for the second I'm not sure on that one, could it be a drain off the deck?
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Maybe some sort of magnet system to hold the ship ridged while in the cradle to help with accidental knocks. As others have said " it dose happen every now and then" Glad nothing major had happend.
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Yes I got the DVDs with the kit as well. Some samples of the DVDs are on You Tube. The set I have ordered all up runs up to just over 4 hours. There are all sorts of DVDs you can choose from.
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Yes, go to modelersshipyard.com and in the kit section it is in there own selection of modelers shipyard kits. I will post a review on this and also start a build log on this ship since I have now got my camera finally.
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I have completed this same kit about 2 months ago. $130!!!! Bargain! It is a great kit.
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Not particuly with Billings but have got experience with laser cut parts in Artenseina latina and Amati. They are quite accurate but don't rely solely on this to make everything fit perfectly. The kits do require some sanding trimming etc... I'm sure with laser cut parts and new updated plans your build will go better than your last. All the best for which ever one of these great ships you choose.
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