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shipman

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  1. shipman
    Hi, me again. Just found a copy of the book by Cyril L. Hume which justifies a little backtrack to around #39. Near the back of the book is a graphic illustration of the layout of deck features. Interesting highlight is the forecastle, which comes directly to the front of the 'heads' with a straight cross beam. The ladder is central and the three items of rigging on the bulwarks to either beam. The main mast has one Fife Rail (forward). The fore mast has Fife Rails fore and aft. Of particular interest to me in this area is a total absence of the contentious large deck winch! My previous comments, here and elsewhere, highlight my past incredulity relating to its position and use. This illustration goes a long way to persuade me that the existing deck winch is spurious and in all probability was never fitted. Think about it.......where was the original chain/cable locker located? If it was below where the winch is now fitted it would have taken valuable cargo stowage space. I contend that the cable locker was directly below the forecastle. Makes a lot of sense to my lubberly eye.
  2. shipman
    I so envy you, Chris. I spent several weeks of research at the beginning of this winter, making plans to build an 11' dinghy. Bought a heap of books, watched loads of video's, until my confidence reached a peak of enthusiasm. Before I went any further a lightbulb came on in my head.....perhaps I should look into the regulations governing watercraft use here in the UK. YIKES! Basically, even a basic plank and paddle is governed by formidable rules, regulations, and license restrictions. Just to comply with the basics would cost as much as a small car to run each year! My intended use would have been for occasional recreational purposes. Frankly, the costs of red tape compliance shot a big hole in my dreams. End of project....still born! Oh hum. Good luck, Chris.
  3. shipman
    'Surely, you jest!' I'm 65 now. As a 12 year old I was taught the basics about tools at school. Last year I came across a box of tool/drill steel assortments. Not one to throw stuff away if it has the remotest useful potential, I remembered the old shop talks and exercises and made a bunch of 1/8, 3/16 chisels and gouges, hardened and tempered them and they worked just fine. Not only do they cut wood, they are up to decorating aluminium and copper too. Making a tool is just as satisfying as using it. Bob's correct, kids today aren't shown these kind of things these days. But all of these kids know what youtube is; and some of these kids will get their learning that way. If they manage to survive the inevitable blood letting.
  4. shipman
    Chris, I can't imagine why Amati didn't go for your saws, considering their MD nearly lost a limb. Management are used to making cuts 🤓
  5. shipman
    I ordered the Airwaves saws (off ebay - cheaper than Hannants) before you posted the video above. The guy didn't mention prices; I imagine the Tamiya product is the dearest choice. From what I could see, the flexibility of the Tamiya blade made me wonder how long it would last before it folded and removed a finger. The choice I made should deal with any reasonable job I could throw it at
  6. shipman
    The items needing a black finish are usually small. Black paint is the best colour to get a one coat finish. As with any surface treatment, good prep and application is essential. I've never felt paint was a handicap. From what I've seen in innumerable posts about chemical blackening has given me zero confidence in the stuff. Life is too short. Each to their own. I did buy some liver of sulphate once; by the time I got round to trying it, it had gone off. My drawers are full of enamels and acrylics, many of which may be 20 or 30 years old. But properly sealed and stored, I rarely find one that is useless.
  7. shipman
    Hi guys, thought you may find this interesting..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Model-Ship-Anchor-Chain-30cm-Link-Brass-1-700-Scale-Spare-Parts-Black-Accessory-/163432602129 It doesn't state a link count, but based on the 1:700 model pictured it is tiny. And it's already black. Worth a look? There should be other vendors.
  8. shipman
    Ha Ha. If I removed my wig and false beard, wefalk and I could be twins.🤣
  9. shipman
    kirill4, hi again. 16 lpcm = 40 lpinch. Without a visual comparison or an accurate link count, it's difficult to make a decision. Marco, do you have a link count for that small chain you found? Very much impressed with your progress. You put your finger on the first golden rule.....enjoy what you do. If everything was perfect in this world we wouldn't understand how bad things can get!
  10. shipman
    Is there better than this?
  11. shipman
    Bob, what a splendid effort, your longboat looks triff. I'm getting a bit jaded with the same old longboats, but I'm impressed with yours. The helmsman figure gives scale to the whole thing and leaving him white is a good way of emphasising the idea of scale without detracting from the model. Not that I know how to sail a boat, but I imagine the rig you have chosen would be too much for one man. Two similar ship mates wouldn't be over doing things.
  12. shipman
    Kirill4, hi! The language is an issue, but the 3 suppliers you list seem to have chain bigger than what Marco needs. The tiny chain I did get was also BLACK! Shame I can't find a new supplier. It's small enough for anchor chain on 1:700 ships.
  13. shipman
    Just when the English stabilized English; Americans began tearing it apart again. 💩
  14. shipman
    My preference is metric EVERY TIME. Except visualising something like 6'', 1 foot, 2 feet does seem to be easier. But smaller measurements in metric are a lot easier when using a pocket calculator. Fractions of inches bellow 1/16'' do my head in 🙃
  15. shipman
    MARCO 😜 ! I agree the chain is a little over scale. BUT the effect is more in character; to me it looks convincing. Initially these things look slightly incongruous, but by the time your rigging is completed, this will look less so. It's like staring at your nose in a mirror...eventually it looks enormous! The smallest chain I could find was 54 links per inch (you have to look hard to realise it IS chain!). Unfortunately the chap who supplied it has passed and I haven't found another supplier. If anyone knows where 54lpi chain can be found, please let us know.
  16. shipman
    Quiet, isn't it.
  17. shipman
    That's a lovely rendition of the kit, Steve. I especially like how busy it is and how it's displayed. It would be interesting to see some variety with the colours/finish. No disrespect to you, Steve; but it's getting to be 'once you've seen one, you've seen them all'.
  18. shipman
    Good progress, Vlad. What will you be using for the chain elements of the rigging?
  19. shipman
    And I'm the dyslexic one! Like you, I rely on Dr Google. I live 10 miles from Sea Watches office. If I could afford to buy what I'd like from their extensive catalogue, I wonder how long the post would take? Happy New year to everyone.
  20. shipman
    Good for you, KP. Happy New year matey.
  21. shipman
    I had the pleasure of wearing out a R1OO/7, a R100S and R100/RS during the 1980's. Each was a different brew of chalk and cheese. Like the R90/S they all had conventional roller timing chains; not what this kit offers. A real restoration of any one of of these 'air heads' would be cheaper and intrinsically of more interest. In 1976 I sat on the central wall at Governors Bridge for the 10 (yes 10) lap production IOM TT, which Helmut Dahne won, riding the 'prototype' R90/S (which was an enlarged R75). Stuck in one position on an old bit of wall, for what seemed an eternity was very uncomfortable. Every TT in it's long history featured photographs of that spot. But NOT the one where I could have been preserved for posterity.
  22. shipman
    Did you mean 'obsessed?
  23. shipman
    Thanks for the video, Vlad. My experience using copper wire for eye-bolts and hooks is that if any tension (from rigging) is applied, the copper bends and distorts. Brass wire is more practical. Either way, as you make them they should be soldered closed. Another way is to twist the wire tails together (I use lock-wire pliers - very quick to do). The twisted end holds the glue better. Where you can get access, the wire can be spread for extra security. Happy New Year.
  24. shipman
    Lord, preserve us. What next?
  25. shipman
    The cabin deck was lined with lead to collect and retain water.

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