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shipman

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Everything posted by shipman

  1. shipman
    Another whirlpool for money. Still I'm interested to see how your project turns out.
  2. shipman
    AH AARGh! PA? Len, now that's clear, I dread what your shipping costs will be to UK. Depending what they turn out to be, I may have to re-consider my 'order'. The confusion was your location simply stated 'Nottingham'; but I see that has now been revised.
  3. shipman
    Keith, what a ripping idea. Boris, your boats do appear to be a cut above what I've seen in a long time. Please do indulge us with a short tutorial of your methods. I know I wouldn't be alone in thanking you to take the time if you would be so generous.
  4. shipman
    2010 Shipwright Annual. ISBN 9781844861088. - $5.00 Len, would you kindly add this to my list please. Looks like you;ve started a real bunfight!
  5. shipman
    American Heavy Frigates 1794-1826 - ISBN 978-1-84176-630-0 - $5.00 American Light and Medium Frigates 1794-1836. ISBN 978-1-84603-266-0. - $5.00 Ships of the American Revolution and Their Models by Harold Hahn - ISBN 0-87021-653-8 - $12.00 2012 Shipwright Annual. ISBN 9781844861491. - $5.00 Please put these to one side for me Len. GB£ ? I'm UK based so regular postage should do. You could pm me. Cheers matey.
  6. shipman
    Honestly, from my experience, your photo's don't really show an issue worth worrying about. The grape vine indicates Trumpeter have detail issues somewhere on every kit they produce. From what I understand, THE big problem is the undersize rear funnel, though there are replacements available. A lot depends on what you want to achieve with your Hood. A handsome model can be built with what came in the box. Many of the 'inaccuracies' detailed on the Hood site are there but they are pretty minor. Most people wouldn't even notice.
  7. shipman
    As plastic models go............that's not the end of the world. By the time you stop spending on this project I'd expect the good fairies would have been and finished it one morning.
  8. shipman
    I was lucky to see both originals when they were part of the NMM display back in the 80's, they were a delight to behold. These kits capture them to perfection. They leave me breathless.
  9. shipman
    As usual, my views are a little off-beat. The pre-painted model on page 4(?) to me looks superb. All these red's and blue's are far too bright at this scale. If you must use colour, it would make a welcome change to try a different selection. Can't fault your craftsmanship; an exceptional build.
  10. shipman
    Is it a stylised ram?
  11. shipman
    Incredibly transparent metals are real these days. CERN's LHC detectors have huge amounts of the stuff. Windows in modern tanks are made of transparent bulletproof metal......
  12. shipman
    Bill, you must be the oldest man in the WORLD! Not a bad effort for someone born in 1852. You are excused for the stitching on your sails.
  13. shipman
    It's amazing how this venerable kit continues to spark peoples enthusiasm. At a guess I reckon it was introduced in 1958. So here's a thought......how many current builders were born before that date and how many were born since? Revell have earned an honourable place in modelling history. Not to be sniffed at.
  14. shipman
    I just love your little fella 'Jaques' with the dubiously scaled measuring stick. He has biceps bigger than his waist....he must be the French version of 'Popeye'. The real one. I continue to drool at your work, but justify that because it is natural at my age.
  15. shipman
    I agree with Bob's comments re oil paint. He admits his liking for it, no doubt after long experience, trial and error. My young son got into the ludicrously expensive miniature gaming figures world. The 'Citadel' range of acrylics (which are silly money too) astonished me by their quality. The pigment density is far superior to anything else I've come across (including oils) yet they flow and cover with a brush like magic. They are expensive but there again, most ship models only require a limited palette.
  16. shipman
    Hi Bruma. I'd be tempted to make my own bowsprit and yards, the kit ones are very fragile. I too got those decorative photo-etch thingies and also worried about glue everywhere. You made a tidy job of them. The place you got them from also does proper scale drilled ball stanchions, which the brass wire threads through in a very convincing way. Of course if you wish to spend more than what the kit costs, the above items, plus scale brass belay pins and a range of blocks go a long way to reduce some if not all the outdated clunkiness of Ravels 60 year old moulding. A well presented rendition of this basically good kit (with a bit of time and money) is a worthwhile endeavour and in my humble opinion is far more accurate than any of the wooden kits on the market. I understand someone from Revel did visit and research the vessel in the mid 50's. In fact their very first hull moulding included the full row of port holes down each side. Those seem to be a throwback to the time she was a sea cadet training ship before coming out of the water for good. Keep at it friend, you are doing fine.
  17. shipman
    MadDog ....so, you're DEAF in just your left ear?
  18. shipman
    Yep, you can only breathe so much life into an old corpse. You did good. When these kits were introduced, they were sold for kids pocket money. I actually think we were lucky to have them, faults and all. Those upper windows are begging to be replaced with photo-etch. But then it becomes a different story altogether. Thanks for sharing.
  19. shipman
    Not a lot wrong there, lad. Well done. Just had a thought (you'd have to do a test).....Lightly flood ALL the windows......dry thoroughly.......then with a fine abrasive, skim over the area with the windows until you get back to a white surface. ???? Then you have the delightful job of drilling all the round port holes out! I reckon there's someone on this forum quite capable of fitting out the interior, with independent cabin lighting.
  20. shipman
    Good luck trying to dry brush white over black! Another issue with the windows (I could be wrong)....directly below boat davits, there shouldn't be windows as that area is part of the support structure. Once that little detail sinks in, it bugs you every time you look at it. Another solution may be to use your pc and printer to make decals for the windows. Of course you'd have to fill the moulded windows first; not the end of the world. Unfortunately long term uv turns even the best decals yellow. Once upon a time It may have been practical to use a 'Letraset' product. Like many useful things, that is now a thing of the past. I continue to watch this space.
  21. shipman
    Proper India Ink is waterproof when dry, but it has to be used on an absorbent ground. It will dry on semi glossy paper, but takes forever. It's no good on plastic or an enamel finish.
  22. shipman
    I've never been a big fan of (naff) thread for the rails, whatever the colour. One cheap alternative (which I've never seen) would be stretched sprue.
  23. shipman
    I suppose the volume of a hull is directly proportional to the overall weight of a vessel.
  24. shipman
    Mmm......you've touched on the subject of bone as a modelling material. I've often wondered how the stuff is cleaned and prepared for use. I built up a small collection of old bone spoons, but you don't find them anymore. They do develop interesting patina. Once cured and treated, how does it cut, saw etc? Folk do sell some colosal raw bones on the net. My dog is wagging her tail......I know she likes a bone.
  25. shipman
    Everything Alex builds just freaks me out.

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