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shipman

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Everything posted by shipman

  1. An un asked for tip.......a strip of rubber on the inside of one of the sides would give some friction, which would keep the pins where you wanted them to stay.
  2. It's such a shame Revell moulded the deck in two sections; the join is always an eye-sore. When I eventually get going on mine, I'm seriously considering making my own in one piece. Or cover it all with planking, either way it's a pain. I'm following your build and looking forward to seeing your progress.
  3. I whole heartedly agree with you, Dafi. Now the weight on the keel has been relieved should help considerably (much like what was done with Cutty Sark). Considering Britain's notorious weather, it's remarkable how well Victory survives. Unfortunately, I've never managed a visit and deeply regret realising I never will. I was a big fan of the longridge model, but often wonder why he never did a set of boats. It would be interesting to know more of him.
  4. Valeriy, your skills are rare gifts today. Did you teach yourself, or learn them as part of your occupation? I'm following your posts with awe.
  5. It's worth remembering that nearly all the outer hull planking was replaced years ago. In some areas wood laminates were used to save money. It would seem a lot of the modern materials used during the previous (but modern) re-fit has already rotted and has been replaced again! See thorough description of this previous work in Alan McGowan's book 'HMS Victory: Her Construction, Career, and Restoration'. One important use (among many) was synthetic materials for the shrouds which aren't as thick as they should be (same book). The list is probably endless.
  6. Joseph, your models are sublime. Thank you for sharing.

    1. Joe100

      Joe100

      Thank you, glad you like!

  7. For that price it would be cheaper to get some craftsman to make them or make them yourself.
  8. Bob, I agree, the SL is a lovely bit of kit. I've enjoyed servicing them. Of course they have their limitations, but for model making and small projects they have a long and fine pedigree. I'm in the lucky position, where I can use one as a regular lathe and set the other up in milling mode and still have room on my table for breakfast, LOL. I've even seen (on this forum) a pair set up in tandem to turn long masts. Now that was thinking out of the box and impressed me. I do have the manual and several books about using the Unimat, so am aware of the motor issue. Here in the UK, on ebay, it's amazing to see examples in appalling deep rusty condition fetching silly money. Clearly there's a market; but who's buying this stuff? Your comment suggesting someone would do us all a favour and make clones. Hasn't this forum got strong views on such things? Shame on you. Take care; be kind.
  9. Hi Bruce. I've just completed a full strip-down, check over and lube job as you suggest. I've had them sitting in a drawer for 25/30 years. Neither seems to have much previous use. The 'standard' chuck is as new, the other had some bruising which I eased out. The unusual version, on close inspection is identical (machining and stamping) so there's a good chance it's a Unimat component. Both motors are fine and remarkably had new brushes installed. All up and raring to go! Oh, I also have the associated milling post fittings and a slow speed bracket for each and a dividing head, various adaptors (12/14mm to use stuff from my Unimat 3) and sundry other accessories. It would be nice to have a 'steady'.
  10. Just a few photo's of my now restored lathes and my extemporised workstation from dumpster materials. Realised one of the tailstocks is mounted the wrong way! Note the chuck jaw differences (how and why?) I also made a circular saw table to fit, then put together a free standing mini saw bench which you may find interesting (again, using scrap materials and hand tools).
  11. Managed to see this film and thoroughly enjoyed the ride. CGI is a game changer. I suspected a Fletcher on Atlantic convoy duty at that time was iffy; thanks for confirming that, Jud. Whatever the detail faults, I felt it was a convincing fictional drama of a much neglected aspect of 'The longest battle'.
  12. Just got to admire your skill and determination. I do understand this build is your own very personal interpretation of an old bogey. Somehow it looks like a film prop from the 1940's. Well done and thanks for sharing so much.
  13. Nah, mate. Those are real individual rivets. This build is a constant delight. No doubt those cranes are so good, they'll give you a lift next time you are feeling down.
  14. Back with a bump! After examining the tailstock spindle in my other lathe, it was clear the spindle is blind bored from both ends. The centre's are a very snug fit in the front bore and have a steep (45degree?) taper land. There is no provision to drift it out if it gets stuck. The cure was application of gentle heat; the temperature differential released the stuck centre! Job done. Like most things mechanical, the best care is to use it and/or do the periodic servicing. Thank you to Bob and Bruce for their welcome interest.
  15. Hi Bruce. The ram/spindle is removed completely from the tailstock. The grub screw you refer to locates into a milled channel on top of the spindle and has nothing to do with locating the stuck centre. There isn't a witness mark so I discount the possibility that pressure from the screw has distorted anything. Aaaaargh! Silly me.....it never entered my head to look at the OTHER lathe I have, which has a drill chuck fitted. Doh! As it's midnight here, it'll have to wait until tomorrow. I'll let you know what happens.
  16. Bob, thanks for your response, I appreciate that. I have the ram removed from the tailstock. I have several spare centres, so I know how long they are. Measuring from the rear of the ram, it's clear there's roughly an inch of metal between the bottom of that hole and the back of the centre, however, as I said, there does appear to be a central 'pusher' pin in there. It's out in my garage soaking in release oil overnight. I have the manuals, but this pin (if that's what it is) isn't illustrated. The exploded diagram in the literature is of the earlier none-flanged ram/spindle, so it may be different. I'm convinced there must be provision to drift this thing out; it may be stuck in there with dried lubricant. I'll go back to it tomorrow and possibly apply a little heat. I'm very aware of possibly damaging parts, hence this cry for help, in an attempt to avoid that I have trawled the net, to no avail and I don't use facebok. Like lots of restoration projects, there's plenty of info telling you what should happen, but often other peoples experience can be the only solution when it doesn't!
  17. Hi guys. I now have 2 Unimat SL lathes and 1 Unimat 3. I've recently been making a dedicated work station, drawers, lamp etc. The first issue I have at my very first step upon stripping and servicing one of the SL's is.. how do you remove a dead centre from the tailstock ram? I've removed the ram. (no corrosion). Inspecting down the hole at the rear, it looks like there's a pin in the middle. Is that correct? All 3 lathes have been in long term dry storage and need to be checked over. There is no rust on the steel parts, but they are obviously 'dull'.
  18. I think I'm correct in remembering that the tall 'baskets' on the stern deck house ('monkey poop') were for the crews use; one contained apples, the other water. I assume they were at that location so the captain could monitor their consumption. They would have been strapped to the deck. The ones at the break of the poop were fire buckets, much like the leather ones on the 'Victory'.
  19. As I understand it, many of the Maritime Museum models are in storage at Chatham Historic Dockyard, with a selection on display in the public areas. Both organisations allow supervised access to specific models upon request, by appointment. It would seem the Science Museums collection is also in storage. However, several 'modern' builders models (HMS Vanguard for example) are now at the Glasgow Maritime Museum. Many were on loan to the SM, and were returned to the owners, some of which have sold via auction houses. Someone somewhere must have records of where everything went, but as time goes by it may be difficult to trace each item. The whole episode is quite a scandal in my opinion. A large and historically significant number of the models were bequeathed to these 'National' museums, with the proviso they were on display to the public. If I was in a position to loan or give something significant to any museum, I wouldn't feel confident that my wishes would be respected, or the item cared for properly. Things ain't what they used to be. I would encourage anyone who had the opportunity to take good quality photo's of these collections to download them here or somewhere accessible on the internet, individually or as albums, for the benefit of all who no longer have and been denied access to these valuable historical assets.
  20. Druxey is correct. The neptune Hall was a bit creepy, with the dim lighting and the noisiest bare board floor in the world! The Science Museum seemed vast. Such a wide variety of periods covered from sail and steam. Anyone know what happened to their star model of the 'Prince'? Hope the evident woodworm infestation had been arrested.
  21. I recently obtained a copy of the Chapman book on fleabay.....£10. It's the English version published in London by Adlard Coles. My good fortune is that a previous owner had (very cleanly) removed all the pages from the case; so I've re-bound the text pages and left all the plans individually separate, which is a much better and convenient way to view them. Both elements sit squarely in the original case. Though there are a wide selection of drawings, by modern standards, they are limited in value. A nice thing to have.
  22. Hi there, I'm trying to establish which version of the Merlin engine 1:24 Corgi Spitfire engine is? My guess is.its the Mk3 as fitted to early Spitfires and Hurricanes. I've contacted Corgi and they don't know! It's an excellent depiction of this motor, produced in a plain overall silver and is begging to have a decent authentic paint job. I'd like to produce a decent display model; apart from the re-paint, most of the interest for me would be to make a period wooden delivery crate stand, of which I'd like clear photographs or drawings. Can anyone help please.
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