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shipman

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Everything posted by shipman

  1. Proper India Ink is waterproof when dry, but it has to be used on an absorbent ground. It will dry on semi glossy paper, but takes forever. It's no good on plastic or an enamel finish.
  2. I've never been a big fan of (naff) thread for the rails, whatever the colour. One cheap alternative (which I've never seen) would be stretched sprue.
  3. I suppose the volume of a hull is directly proportional to the overall weight of a vessel.
  4. Mmm......you've touched on the subject of bone as a modelling material. I've often wondered how the stuff is cleaned and prepared for use. I built up a small collection of old bone spoons, but you don't find them anymore. They do develop interesting patina. Once cured and treated, how does it cut, saw etc? Folk do sell some colosal raw bones on the net. My dog is wagging her tail......I know she likes a bone.
  5. Everything Alex builds just freaks me out.
  6. Another splendid rendition of this venerable kit; well done. A long debated feature of the ship and the kit is the arrangement of the anchor chain deck layout. I see what you did with yours and appreciate you put some thought into it and made alterations, which I find (at least) convincing.
  7. The feature you mention on the ship as she is today is as depicted on the kit. To the rear of the poop 'monkey deck', just in front of the wheel, is another door/companion way. The kit doesn't include that. Apparently that was an addition during Portugese ownership. I can only assume this was retained to give a one way flow of visitors.
  8. I wouldn't let a clumsy person near a screwdriver. But I do appreciate your point of view.
  9. Lathes, milling machines, band saws, bench saws, Proxon this, Proxon that. When did this hobby become a rich man;s preserve? Oh, I forgot, you will never get the affluent to admit to having enough. There's never been a ship model subject that couldn't be entirely built using simple hand tools and a will to do it.
  10. My brother built this impressive kit in the 70's. At that time it was sold at a price that a kid could buy for a few weeks (modest) pocket money. It's now £100. No surprise there, then!
  11. A picture is worth a thousand words. Thank you for that.
  12. Hi wefalck. I have Unimat SL and 3. Never seen a filing rest made or adapted for these.....any suggestions, please.
  13. Welcome to the forum, Genny. I'm a sort of passive member from South Yorkshire. We know about GRIM. Happy times here at MSW.
  14. Shame on you.......you've just let down the OCD element here. Sometimes too much is never enough. Me thinks you've made the right decision with the blocks.
  15. It's worth remembering that pre WW2 the lightest covering for all sorts of bodywork was doped linen over an ash framework. Aircraft being the height of technology. If you wanted compound curves then aluminium was the choice. Steel bodies were and still are much heavier, but are cheaper to make. Slap a coat of paint on and 'hey who cares, it looks good'.
  16. Question? Was the 'body' of the real car fabric? If it was, gloss isn't an option.
  17. By 'armistice flags', do you mean the tri-colour stripes on the turrets? I don't know if they were the markings given to neutral warships during the Spanish civil war; RN ships had the same at that time.
  18. Dafi produces his photo etch from his own pocket as far as I can tell. His sheet of hooks, ringbolts dwarfs any other options out there. I forgot the numbers, but you're in the thousands. Makes $0.99 for 20 look pathetic. He does lots of other useful etch..... do yourself a favour and check his site.
  19. Don't forget these.......I got some and wasn't disappointed. A no brainer in my opinion. http://www.dafinismus.de/plates_en#anker7
  20. Eee, by gum, wefalk. I bow to your assertion. A quick nip over to the Wiki HMS Warrior pages confirms your view. I don't mind being wrong. Still, I'm surprised it was done that way.
  21. I don't think bronze would have been up to the weight of the gun, especially with the added stress on recoil. My guess is those tracks were hot rolled I-beam steel, let into the deck. Similar stuff was commonly used on rail-roads at that time. Iron would have been too brittle for the same reason. Even then there were grades of iron that didn't rust.
  22. And finally, here's my stripped, cleaned and freshly lubed Unimat3.
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