Dan Vadas

Getting the crank mechanisms to actually work took some thought, as the kit makes no provision for this - it's simply all glued together.
 
I made every joint moveable (too many actually - the valve control mechanism is separate from the drive cranks and didn't really need doing) by punching and pinning every one. Most joints are held together with paper "nuts" which are the only parts of the joints that are glued. Here is the slide for the upper shaft which also needs to pivot :



Some close-ups of all the right-hand side crank mechanisms :




With everything now in place the crank movement has really improved. It will get close to perfect once the drive wheels actually touch down - at the moment they are in mid-air as they don't have a flange like the other wheels.
 
I've started making the boilers. More progress updates will follow as I have something to show.
 
Cheers, Danny

Welcome to my build Gary. Paper modelling has it's own challenges, the solutions to some of which I've been fortunate to pick up from other MSW members and others from European Paper modellers. The medium is huge over there, probably as big as wood or plastic modelling  .
 
In the words of Bachmann Turner Overdrive - "You ain't seen nuthin' yet"  .
 
The crank pins are dealt with in similar fashion to the axles, using 2.0mm brass tubing and 1.6mm styrene rod which I heated with a small soldering iron to mushroom the end. It was then cleaned up and filed as flat as possible with a diamond-coated needle file :



Once the axles were all installed I made some "hubcaps" from scrap paper. In my opinion they look better than the bare axle, which is actually the "correct" way on the original :

The crank pins are also covered, I punched out some 0.5mm paper and glued them to the back of the printed parts to give them enough clearance :

Danny
 
 

Getting the crank mechanisms to actually work took some thought, as the kit makes no provision for this - it's simply all glued together.
 
I made every joint moveable (too many actually - the valve control mechanism is separate from the drive cranks and didn't really need doing) by punching and pinning every one. Most joints are held together with paper "nuts" which are the only parts of the joints that are glued. Here is the slide for the upper shaft which also needs to pivot :



Some close-ups of all the right-hand side crank mechanisms :




With everything now in place the crank movement has really improved. It will get close to perfect once the drive wheels actually touch down - at the moment they are in mid-air as they don't have a flange like the other wheels.
 
I've started making the boilers. More progress updates will follow as I have something to show.
 
Cheers, Danny

Getting the crank mechanisms to actually work took some thought, as the kit makes no provision for this - it's simply all glued together.
 
I made every joint moveable (too many actually - the valve control mechanism is separate from the drive cranks and didn't really need doing) by punching and pinning every one. Most joints are held together with paper "nuts" which are the only parts of the joints that are glued. Here is the slide for the upper shaft which also needs to pivot :



Some close-ups of all the right-hand side crank mechanisms :




With everything now in place the crank movement has really improved. It will get close to perfect once the drive wheels actually touch down - at the moment they are in mid-air as they don't have a flange like the other wheels.
 
I've started making the boilers. More progress updates will follow as I have something to show.
 
Cheers, Danny

Getting the crank mechanisms to actually work took some thought, as the kit makes no provision for this - it's simply all glued together.
 
I made every joint moveable (too many actually - the valve control mechanism is separate from the drive cranks and didn't really need doing) by punching and pinning every one. Most joints are held together with paper "nuts" which are the only parts of the joints that are glued. Here is the slide for the upper shaft which also needs to pivot :



Some close-ups of all the right-hand side crank mechanisms :




With everything now in place the crank movement has really improved. It will get close to perfect once the drive wheels actually touch down - at the moment they are in mid-air as they don't have a flange like the other wheels.
 
I've started making the boilers. More progress updates will follow as I have something to show.
 
Cheers, Danny

Welcome to my build Gary. Paper modelling has it's own challenges, the solutions to some of which I've been fortunate to pick up from other MSW members and others from European Paper modellers. The medium is huge over there, probably as big as wood or plastic modelling  .
 
In the words of Bachmann Turner Overdrive - "You ain't seen nuthin' yet"  .
 
The crank pins are dealt with in similar fashion to the axles, using 2.0mm brass tubing and 1.6mm styrene rod which I heated with a small soldering iron to mushroom the end. It was then cleaned up and filed as flat as possible with a diamond-coated needle file :



Once the axles were all installed I made some "hubcaps" from scrap paper. In my opinion they look better than the bare axle, which is actually the "correct" way on the original :

The crank pins are also covered, I punched out some 0.5mm paper and glued them to the back of the printed parts to give them enough clearance :

Danny
 
 

You're going to have to put some nice black grease on those parts to make it look 100% realistic, Danny! 
 
John

Wow, you made the driving cranks and rods so they actually work 
 
 
You should put a video up to show it all moving, that is something I would love to see as all those moving parts always fascinates me when I see it all working on a full size version!  

 

Getting the crank mechanisms to actually work took some thought, as the kit makes no provision for this - it's simply all glued together.
 
I made every joint moveable (too many actually - the valve control mechanism is separate from the drive cranks and didn't really need doing) by punching and pinning every one. Most joints are held together with paper "nuts" which are the only parts of the joints that are glued. Here is the slide for the upper shaft which also needs to pivot :



Some close-ups of all the right-hand side crank mechanisms :




With everything now in place the crank movement has really improved. It will get close to perfect once the drive wheels actually touch down - at the moment they are in mid-air as they don't have a flange like the other wheels.
 
I've started making the boilers. More progress updates will follow as I have something to show.
 
Cheers, Danny

Welcome to my build Gary. Paper modelling has it's own challenges, the solutions to some of which I've been fortunate to pick up from other MSW members and others from European Paper modellers. The medium is huge over there, probably as big as wood or plastic modelling  .
 
In the words of Bachmann Turner Overdrive - "You ain't seen nuthin' yet"  .
 
The crank pins are dealt with in similar fashion to the axles, using 2.0mm brass tubing and 1.6mm styrene rod which I heated with a small soldering iron to mushroom the end. It was then cleaned up and filed as flat as possible with a diamond-coated needle file :



Once the axles were all installed I made some "hubcaps" from scrap paper. In my opinion they look better than the bare axle, which is actually the "correct" way on the original :

The crank pins are also covered, I punched out some 0.5mm paper and glued them to the back of the printed parts to give them enough clearance :

Danny
 
 

Getting the crank mechanisms to actually work took some thought, as the kit makes no provision for this - it's simply all glued together.
 
I made every joint moveable (too many actually - the valve control mechanism is separate from the drive cranks and didn't really need doing) by punching and pinning every one. Most joints are held together with paper "nuts" which are the only parts of the joints that are glued. Here is the slide for the upper shaft which also needs to pivot :



Some close-ups of all the right-hand side crank mechanisms :




With everything now in place the crank movement has really improved. It will get close to perfect once the drive wheels actually touch down - at the moment they are in mid-air as they don't have a flange like the other wheels.
 
I've started making the boilers. More progress updates will follow as I have something to show.
 
Cheers, Danny

Getting the crank mechanisms to actually work took some thought, as the kit makes no provision for this - it's simply all glued together.
 
I made every joint moveable (too many actually - the valve control mechanism is separate from the drive cranks and didn't really need doing) by punching and pinning every one. Most joints are held together with paper "nuts" which are the only parts of the joints that are glued. Here is the slide for the upper shaft which also needs to pivot :



Some close-ups of all the right-hand side crank mechanisms :




With everything now in place the crank movement has really improved. It will get close to perfect once the drive wheels actually touch down - at the moment they are in mid-air as they don't have a flange like the other wheels.
 
I've started making the boilers. More progress updates will follow as I have something to show.
 
Cheers, Danny

Welcome to my build Gary. Paper modelling has it's own challenges, the solutions to some of which I've been fortunate to pick up from other MSW members and others from European Paper modellers. The medium is huge over there, probably as big as wood or plastic modelling  .
 
In the words of Bachmann Turner Overdrive - "You ain't seen nuthin' yet"  .
 
The crank pins are dealt with in similar fashion to the axles, using 2.0mm brass tubing and 1.6mm styrene rod which I heated with a small soldering iron to mushroom the end. It was then cleaned up and filed as flat as possible with a diamond-coated needle file :



Once the axles were all installed I made some "hubcaps" from scrap paper. In my opinion they look better than the bare axle, which is actually the "correct" way on the original :

The crank pins are also covered, I punched out some 0.5mm paper and glued them to the back of the printed parts to give them enough clearance :

Danny
 
 

Getting the crank mechanisms to actually work took some thought, as the kit makes no provision for this - it's simply all glued together.
 
I made every joint moveable (too many actually - the valve control mechanism is separate from the drive cranks and didn't really need doing) by punching and pinning every one. Most joints are held together with paper "nuts" which are the only parts of the joints that are glued. Here is the slide for the upper shaft which also needs to pivot :



Some close-ups of all the right-hand side crank mechanisms :




With everything now in place the crank movement has really improved. It will get close to perfect once the drive wheels actually touch down - at the moment they are in mid-air as they don't have a flange like the other wheels.
 
I've started making the boilers. More progress updates will follow as I have something to show.
 
Cheers, Danny

Getting the crank mechanisms to actually work took some thought, as the kit makes no provision for this - it's simply all glued together.
 
I made every joint moveable (too many actually - the valve control mechanism is separate from the drive cranks and didn't really need doing) by punching and pinning every one. Most joints are held together with paper "nuts" which are the only parts of the joints that are glued. Here is the slide for the upper shaft which also needs to pivot :



Some close-ups of all the right-hand side crank mechanisms :




With everything now in place the crank movement has really improved. It will get close to perfect once the drive wheels actually touch down - at the moment they are in mid-air as they don't have a flange like the other wheels.
 
I've started making the boilers. More progress updates will follow as I have something to show.
 
Cheers, Danny

Welcome to my build Gary. Paper modelling has it's own challenges, the solutions to some of which I've been fortunate to pick up from other MSW members and others from European Paper modellers. The medium is huge over there, probably as big as wood or plastic modelling  .
 
In the words of Bachmann Turner Overdrive - "You ain't seen nuthin' yet"  .
 
The crank pins are dealt with in similar fashion to the axles, using 2.0mm brass tubing and 1.6mm styrene rod which I heated with a small soldering iron to mushroom the end. It was then cleaned up and filed as flat as possible with a diamond-coated needle file :



Once the axles were all installed I made some "hubcaps" from scrap paper. In my opinion they look better than the bare axle, which is actually the "correct" way on the original :

The crank pins are also covered, I punched out some 0.5mm paper and glued them to the back of the printed parts to give them enough clearance :

Danny
 
 

Getting the crank mechanisms to actually work took some thought, as the kit makes no provision for this - it's simply all glued together.
 
I made every joint moveable (too many actually - the valve control mechanism is separate from the drive cranks and didn't really need doing) by punching and pinning every one. Most joints are held together with paper "nuts" which are the only parts of the joints that are glued. Here is the slide for the upper shaft which also needs to pivot :



Some close-ups of all the right-hand side crank mechanisms :




With everything now in place the crank movement has really improved. It will get close to perfect once the drive wheels actually touch down - at the moment they are in mid-air as they don't have a flange like the other wheels.
 
I've started making the boilers. More progress updates will follow as I have something to show.
 
Cheers, Danny

Getting the crank mechanisms to actually work took some thought, as the kit makes no provision for this - it's simply all glued together.
 
I made every joint moveable (too many actually - the valve control mechanism is separate from the drive cranks and didn't really need doing) by punching and pinning every one. Most joints are held together with paper "nuts" which are the only parts of the joints that are glued. Here is the slide for the upper shaft which also needs to pivot :



Some close-ups of all the right-hand side crank mechanisms :




With everything now in place the crank movement has really improved. It will get close to perfect once the drive wheels actually touch down - at the moment they are in mid-air as they don't have a flange like the other wheels.
 
I've started making the boilers. More progress updates will follow as I have something to show.
 
Cheers, Danny

Welcome to my build Gary. Paper modelling has it's own challenges, the solutions to some of which I've been fortunate to pick up from other MSW members and others from European Paper modellers. The medium is huge over there, probably as big as wood or plastic modelling  .
 
In the words of Bachmann Turner Overdrive - "You ain't seen nuthin' yet"  .
 
The crank pins are dealt with in similar fashion to the axles, using 2.0mm brass tubing and 1.6mm styrene rod which I heated with a small soldering iron to mushroom the end. It was then cleaned up and filed as flat as possible with a diamond-coated needle file :



Once the axles were all installed I made some "hubcaps" from scrap paper. In my opinion they look better than the bare axle, which is actually the "correct" way on the original :

The crank pins are also covered, I punched out some 0.5mm paper and glued them to the back of the printed parts to give them enough clearance :

Danny
 
 

Getting the crank mechanisms to actually work took some thought, as the kit makes no provision for this - it's simply all glued together.
 
I made every joint moveable (too many actually - the valve control mechanism is separate from the drive cranks and didn't really need doing) by punching and pinning every one. Most joints are held together with paper "nuts" which are the only parts of the joints that are glued. Here is the slide for the upper shaft which also needs to pivot :



Some close-ups of all the right-hand side crank mechanisms :




With everything now in place the crank movement has really improved. It will get close to perfect once the drive wheels actually touch down - at the moment they are in mid-air as they don't have a flange like the other wheels.
 
I've started making the boilers. More progress updates will follow as I have something to show.
 
Cheers, Danny

Just found this build log Danny, and I am very impressed with your construction of it and the look of the model in general.  I am always amazed by how realistic these card constructions can be - and how detailed and complex.  Very nice work indeed and I look forward to future updates.
 
Gary

OMG! Breathtaking!!!!...Moab

Ken - fire up a paper model ????? I don't think that will end well  .
 
I'm going backwards in the following posts to show some of the construction involved in the earlier post of my progress.
 
Quite a bit of work in building the two steam cylinders. I had a few re-does with these, as I didn't understand the basic principles of how they actually worked. Thanks to a couple of other build logs, Stephan and Lothar on German Paper Modelling sites, I eventually got them together the right way up and also WORKING  . In these next pics I've cut apart one of my early failures. I actually managed to save every part and rebuilt the little section :

The shaft should have gone right through the piece. I had added a paper roll to glue the legs to - wrong :

Sometimes a single-edged razor blade works better than a scalpel for cutting parts off as it's about half the thickness :


Some of the parts for the end plates etc :

How I keep multiple pieces aligned on an otherwise difficult part :


These two little pieces were very difficult to roll due to the cutouts in the middle. They turned out quite well  :


Some finished sub-sections :


Lots of laser-cut bolt heads and how I cut them off the sheet :

These name plaques turned out really well. They are laser-engraved, the gold colour was applied with a Pitt Pen :

The finished cylinders. I'll put the name plaques on near the end of the build :

Danny

I'll post an answer to that in my next one later today Phil, I'm in a bit of a hurry at the moment and wanted to show an update on my loco.
 
Here's where I'm up to at the moment, details of how I got there will follow a bit later :





Danny

Now I fitted the crank pins to all the larger wheels. I've glued them in with PVA, so I cut a groove in the pin with a Xacto knife. This stops the brass pin from slipping :


I fitted the six axles. They are all a nice tight "push-in" fit and shouldn't move again. However I filed out the hole for the Driving wheel axle so it COULD turn - once the cranks are installed both sides will then turn in unison :

Now it's on to the main brakes, quite a big job. Here are the parts for one of the 12 brake shoes. I've glued the inner pads on, but I may have to remove them again later (easily done with a single-edge razor blade) if there isn't enough clearance to the wheel flange. I had to do this on the bogie's brakes, and Stephan also found out that it was necessary on his model. We'll see :

I used a 1mm wire to keep everything aligned while gluing the pieces together :

All done. The contact surfaces will be cleaned up as I fit each assembly, they will need to be sanded to get clearance to the wheel rim :

On to the brake control arms. All the parts are prepared ready for fitting together :



Once again a simple jig made accurate assembly easier :
 

 


That's it for now. I'll move on to fitting the brake assemblies to the main frame next.
 
Cheers, Danny