Paul Le Wol

Hi Benjamin, have a look at Crafty Sailor website. They are in Calgary and they sell Falconet deadeyes made from pear.

Bob and Ian, thank you very much for your support. It is always appreciated.

Hi Everyone, thank you for all of your wonderful comments and Likes. I thought that I should do an update because there’s getting to be too many pictures. A new long knee, main sheet horse and tombstone where made out of cherry. The plans say to make the tiller comb out of two pieces of brass but wood seemed to be an easier option for me . The curve of the deck and the curve of the comb make it a complex piece. (for me). The main sheet cleats in the cockpit are 9mm pear made by Master Korabel. It takes a bit to remove the laser char but they turn out nice. The windlass wasn’t wide enough to fit to the the bits so the connecting rod is going to be replaced with a longer brass rod. The bits were temporarily mounted so that a 5/16” pieced of wood could be pinned where the bowsprit will sit. Then came the mounting of the stanchions. It was a long process so while waiting for each batch to dry the jib sheet horse was made and installed The bulwark strakes are made out of 1/16” x 5/16” cherry ripped to 5/32”. The wide and thick planks were not very cooperative. A jig was made to support the tombstone in position. It kind of just sits out there flapping in the breeze. Next will be finishing the bulwark strakes running from midship to the tombstone. Hope to see you all next time.

Even the “ unremarkable “ bench build is remarkable. Beautiful work Ian.

Hi Ed, I am not building the Rattlesnake, but if I was looking at this situation the first thing I think I would do is compare the distance from the top of the false keel to the top of bulkhead I with the measurement in the plans if it is shown. Then adjust that bulkhead as needed. Then using your straightedge adjust the bulkheads between I and M. It looks like K needs some material removed and J needs material added. Can’t see what’s going on with bulkhead L. Then do the same with the foredeck

Don and Nils , thank you very much. Nils, one day I would like to try my hand at sails but I don’t think I’m ready for the challenge just yet. You both did such a nice job with your sails

Thank you No Idea, you are very kind.

Hey Everyone, first and foremost many thanks to all of you for your comments and Likes. The cabin is finished and the deck has been laid. The cabin was made pretty well the same way as the hatches. The walls are 1/16”cherry and the roof is 3/64” AYC. One of the kit supplied cabin roof beams was used to support the roof planks. Two straight planks were laid down the center of the roof and the remaining planks were tapered. Well except for the outer two planks which will have to be sanded back to the proper amount of overhang.. After a good sanding the companionway roof slides were attached. Holes for the port lights were made. I had a couple of Billings plastic port lights laying around which I think look good so they were used. Mod Podge “ Dimensional Magic “ was used to glaze them. Then the deck planking was started. The plans and directions say that no nibbling was used and that the planks should be “feathered “ into the planksheer. Here are the photos just showing the progression of the planking. The deck was given a coat of wipe on poly. Next will be the stanchions and knees. Hope to see you next time.

Hey Chris, you could buy a 4’ x 4’ sheet of half inch ply, cut it into 16” x 48” pieces and glue the pieces together so that the wows cancel each other out. I’ve had pretty good luck with that in the past. Last year I picked up what Home Depot calls a project panel. They are made of 3/4 inch 1” x 2” pieces glued together. I bought one that is 12” x 36” and it is still straight. Here’s a few pictures of it

Hi newbee, I am following with great interest the mods that you are making to your Golden Hind. Regarding the issues you are having with text and images, the only suggestion I have is that you make sure your cursor is positioned where you want to insert the text or image. I’ve had success by ensuring that after entering text or inserting an image I hit enter a couple of times to move the cursor down to the position where I want the next set of text or image to be placed. That way you don’t end up with text beside the image or somewhere else that you don’t want it. Moving the cursor down a couple of places will also give you a space between the images which makes them easier to differentiate from one another. Hope that’s of some help

Hi hamilton, thank you so much. I’ve seen a couple of pinky builds online where they stray from the plans and although the Glad Tidings hull doesn’t really look like any of the work boats in Chapelle’s book, I think it can still be passed off as a fishing boat 🙂

Thank you SkiBee, I appreciate your comment very much.

Hi Everyone, thank you for dropping by and for the Likes. They are very appreciated. Before starting the deck and furnishings I decided to make a new rudder out of AYCedar using the kit supplied rudder as a template. The pieces of 1/8” x 1/8” strip have holes drilled in them for the pintle pins so that the pintles are integrated into the rudder. The pintle straps will be applied later. The gudgeon straps are made from left over laser board. The iron bar pinned to the stem is blackened 3/32” brass strip. Now it’s time to make the hatches. The frames are made from 3/16” x 1/16” cherry. I’m roughly using examples found in Chapelle’s book American Fishing Schooners. A piece of 1/16” basswood sheet is used to support the covers and it is supported by 1/8” x 1/8” strips. The covers are glued together, squared, and a line is scored down the center to suggest that there are two halves. The strap that holds down the covers is supposed to have a hinged hasp at one end. Both ends fit over a staple. The bar should be slotted where it fits over the staple but I just drilled two holes so that the staple would hold the bar in place. No glue is used to hold down the bar. The iron bars that run down both sides of the frame are made from Cedar strip sanded down to .5mm . They look thicker but that’s as thin as I could get it. Did not want to try and glue brass strip along there. Then a bit more planking was applied to the deck and sanded around the cockpit. The cabin and more deck planking will be next. See you next time

Nils, congratulations on finishing this wonderful boat. So nice.

Hey Dsmith, congratulations on finishing your Glad Tidings. Marvelous job. Love your sails.

Beautiful ship Henrik, I wish you well.

Beautiful cook house Eric. I think I can already smell that brisket smoking

Superb Chris. Glad you are able to display it with the canopy open.

Hey Mango, maybe you could upload a couple more photos for people to get a look from different angles. Could it be that there is too much bend in that plank? Just throwing it out there. Perhaps try different amounts of bend to see how it affects the way the plank sits against the bulkhead

Hi Cisco, great looking scarf joints. Definitely going to have to give your Q-tip idea a try.

Hi Everyone, thank you very much for your wonderful comments and likes. At the end of the last post I had just started making new planksheers out of cherry. The kit supplied planksheer was cut into three pieces and used as a template. A piece of cherry was added to the top of the stem to bring it up to the correct height. Pieces of scrap 1/16” x 1/4” strips were glued to the planhsheer between the bulkheads to support the 1/32” basswood sub deck. I had enough basswood sheet to do part of the sub deck so I installed a bit at both ends. While waiting for more basswood the floor and the walls of the cockpit where made. Glued strips of wood together for the floor and used a template to get the proper dimensions. I was looking at shipphotographer’s excellent Glad Tidings build log and Bob Cleek noted that normally these vessels would have two drains in the cockpit as opposed to one so that’s what I went with. The strips of wood on the port and starboard walls were installed individually because of the angle. The other walls were made the same way as the floor. Got some more 1/32” sheet and continued with the sub deck. And of course had to install some planking just to break things up. Next come the hatches. Hope to see you next time.

Hi Nils, very nice sails. I really like looking at your photos. There’s always so much to discover in them.

Hi Ian, thank you very much. This boat is a lot of fun.

Hi Everyone, the planking has been completed on the pinky. Most of Belt B consisted of 1/4” planks . When I got to Belt A, I changed to 3/16” planks in order to have six strakes. The sheer strake had to have a 1/4” plank at the stern. All of the strakes were pretty much the same , tapering at both ends. No edge bending was used. The planks were tapered and then held under a running tap just enough to wet them. Then I put a curve in them using finger pressure for five or ten minutes. The planks at the stern needed a twist along their length. By that time they had dried enough to glue them in place. For some reason I would always start at the stern post and work towards midship and then do the same at the stem. All of the strakes have either two or three planks. The joints that are close to the stem and the stern are going to be faked. I would usually do one or two strakes a day and then do some sanding with 180 grit paper just so there wouldn’t be too much sanding after it was finished. This is after one big sanding. Then two big standings. There’s a couple of things that I messed up by using the 1/16” strip of wood to make the rabbet. I should have maybe taken a 1/16th of an inch off the bulkhead former to compensate for it. The stem should have been made to be level with the top of the planksheer. The planksheer ends up being 1/8” short along it’s length. Not worried about the planksheer length because they are being remade out of cherry. Got a nice order of cherry from Joe at Modeler’s Sawmill. Also added some 3/32 x 3/32 pieces of basswood strip between the bulkheads to help with the gluing of the planksheer. Next is making lots of square holes for the stanchions. See you next time.

Hi Eric, thank you very much. My aim is to try and get the planking nice enough so that it can be seen under the brushed on paint. Happy to see that you are starting a new build and log.