Thunder
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Everything posted by Thunder
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Hi Jobbie, was a little confused for a moment as you mentioned 'lifts' which go to the yard arm ends and are combined with the t'gallent sheets. You are working on the 'tyes', (which were used to lift the yard up into position, just to confuse things). Just a point but i am sure the trucks were provided in my kit of HMS Supply. If not i tend to use glass beads which can be brought in black at different sizes.
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I wouldn't be disheartened, don't you think that we have all been here. You can use the fill and file method as Roger suggests but depends on what you want to do. If you do that you will be in a similar place on your next kit or use it for learning, post on here for each stage and questions, make this kit great and then the next even better. Look at it this way - twice the value in one kit.
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Decision is, of course, yours, but the best way to use this kit for learning is to make it how you want it rather than just except what you have already done. I think, for the cost of some replacement wood, it is worth stripping and rescuing. Then you can be proud of what you have achieved. I looked over your build and saw the below: Looks to me that kit bulkheads wanted some work and did not help you from the start. The second and fourth being either placed too high, in wrong place or too short.
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Interesting knot tying gizmo.
Thunder replied to Bob Cleek's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hi, why have i never thought of this, I have three of these that i use for angling. Use them for tying on spade end hooks. You can get much smaller ones than those shown here that might be better. They are sold in any angling shop in the uk. The 'Stonfo' version has a much better thumbwheel position and handle is free rotating so easier to hold hook and turn device round.
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Hi, the bevelling, dependant on hull shape, can, on occasion, need to be quite severe. If the bulkheads have no char i will make the edge nearest the centre of the hull with black marker pen. This is a great 'tell tale' that you have not taken too much away and altered the bulkhead shape. Worth remembering that on a real ship the bulkheads at the bow, and sometimes stern, would not be set square to the keel, but be at an angle, called cant frames, therefore, on real ships, would not need the extremes of bevelling you do on a model. If you look at the above and imagine the cant frames as square to the keel, you will see how much bevelling you actually need to do. If you have not bevelled at all then your planks are on point contact and that will be why they are pulling off. Whether i soak the wood will depend on the degree of curve required and the wood's flexibility. I generally, taper the planks, soak, clip in place, let dry, glue in place. I only normally put a taper on the edge, along its whole length, for the second planking. Some times i will soak for a few minutes, shape with a hot iron, which also drys it, and then glue in place.
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Hi, think might of been better to remove the pins before applying filler. Going to make it difficult to sand.
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I would have to agree with Chris. Out of the three i would say that the Endeavour would be the most difficult to plank and the Snake the easier. However, having built the Caldercraft Cruiser i would have to say that instructions are not great. The newer models from Vanguard will be exceptional.
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Order of attack for rigging a model (section)
Thunder replied to bc_63's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Most modellers find their own way to rig ships that is comfortable to them but if you want it to look correct you need to do it as was done on the real ships as much as possible. This is because the rigging was put over the head of a mast in a certain order. Below is the order i complete my rigging. What i will do, however, is plan each item ahead so as to install rigging blocks when more accessible. If you don't you will not get your fingers in to tie them off.
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I Cannot believe this is a first build, absolutely great job. Wish I had seen it earlier so could follow from the start.
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Hello from Switzerland! Mystery model identification
Thunder replied to Nix's topic in New member Introductions
Votive models were built, usually by one of a crew from a real ship, and hung in churches to give luck to their ship whilst at sea. They are not usually accurate as more symbolic. -
I have tried rigging a ship without making a rigging plan, just using kit drawings, and always end up with a compromise some how. Usually I construct a rigging plan, this is done in conjunction with James Lee's, but the sequence is taken from Noel C L Hackney's guide to modelling the HMS Victory. I will create my own belaying plan at the same time. The reason i do all this is because I have often built kits that have no rigging instructions at all. The reason it works so well is because as i research a stage of running rigging i identify the belay and any blocks and can look back into the standing rigging stage and best chose when to install. A good example would be Fore topsail brace blocks, they can not be installed before starting rigging as need to go on the main stay, but if didn't make a plan am likely to forget. Then when coming to rig can't get my fingers in.
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I am afraid i disagree with the procedure by Darryl, with regards to rigging the fore stays before the shrouds as this would have them set up differently round the head of the mast to actual practice. I do agree, however, that they are important to get the overall tensioning correct. For this reason, on smaller scales or plastic kits, i set up temporary forestays to counteract the stresses caused by the shrouds and then remove these when the correctly rigged stays are completed. if it helps, i have a word file, which gives the order of dressing the masts and yards, it is my method taken from a modelling guide that i have used for many kits. I adapt it for each kit, dependant on historic period of build, happy to send you this if PM me with your email address.
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So glad I have caught up with this build / prototype kit. For some time this has been my favourite vessel and have got in my copies of the books ready to be my first scratch build. Only problem now is that I have a lot of catching up to do reading your log.
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Hi Chuck, Over here in the UK most fishing line is nylon or fluorocarbon, is that what you are using? Only ask as in the United States a lot of Braid line is used. Cheers.
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This is an excellent build that I have been lucky to find as will be invaluable assistance for a future build of the 'Indiscret' by aeropiccola which I have on my shelf. Hope you do not mind me following.
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Love the job you are doing on Jylland but have to ask what the model is the case?
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One on its own is outstanding but how do you describe 12 and all almost identical. Truly magnificent.
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Hi, get him to check the iron itself to be sure.
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The BS1363 plug with the square pins replaced the round in the 1950's. As i said only shaving socket have a round pin and that is because they are for use in a special location (bath room) using a SELV supply. You can buy an adaptor to use outside of the bathroom but they are low rated in current and would not supply an iron. Can you please stop saying 220V as it is 230V and you are bordering on the tolerances for damage to electronic equipment (216V) in the UK. Am i looking at a different item, what's with all the wires that i cannot see. This shows a Europeon 110V class2, double insulated (no earth) portable device with a moulded unfused plug. Also these are great but that part you have to slide the plank under gets hot and its a real pain inserting the plank under it to start the process. You need three hands.
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British Voltage is rated at 230V but if measured is generally 240 -245. That is not a BS1363 plug. At a push you may be able to get it in a shaver socket. You can still get 5A round pin sockets for lighting circuits but have not generally seen round pin sockets in domestic wiring since the 1960's. In industry you get round pin commando 230V Sockets but these still have an earth pin so could not use one of these. Of course, could use an adaptor but it is highly likely this would be a 110V device and so you will find it won't last long. Your choice not to trust what I say but after 30 years in electrical industry and the last 10 of this as a Senior Electrical Engineer I would hope I have some idea.
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Make sure you confirm voltage is 230V as it has a euro style plug on it.
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Received the second volume of the Speedwell for my birthday this week. Not had time to study yet but these two books look to me to be great resource for general model building techniques and not just to build the Speedwell. My wife has indicated no problem with postage cost to UK.
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Hi Vane, So true regarding Diana, I have just got to this stage and had three attempts adding wood to the ply frames before being reasonably happy and then drove the wife mad when sanding with the noise like drawing your finger nails down a chalk board, a bit like in the jaws film.
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Hi Vane, Was wondering how you are getting on with the stern gallery? That part of your build is at the same stage as mine and i am having real difficulties lining everything up. I have come to the conclusion that it is a fault with bulkhead 17 and that it is set too high. Unfortunately this not only effects the stern gallery but also effects everything at the stern including the quarter galleries, wale, planking of the stern etc. I believe everything is 4mm too high.
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