Thunder
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Everything posted by Thunder
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I only gave my part P up recently as too busy as Electrical Engineer for Nestle. Had my own business on days off. You can get signed off by local council, need to inform before start and they will inspect at first fix and then at end of works. The trouble is electricians are getting big money for contracts so don't want the smaller jobs.
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Strange looks like an easy, straight forward job, as was your garage assume consumer unit is handy. I've had the same problem with roofers and plumbers. My best friend, who was a plumber and we worked together, died early during the first lock down, finding someone since has been a nightmare.
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If you were nearer i would come and complete the electrical install for you.
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I have long given up the Amati form a strip, I soak the planks for a short time and then use a plank bender. The trip is dry by the time i have finished. I have the aeropiccola plank bender but really struggle with it. Lifting the roller to put the plank under once hot is not easily accomplished.
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Hi Dave, Did contemplate starting a build log but thought that were some great ones on here and I am not very disciplined at remembering to take the photographs etc. I am just at the point of finishing the main deck. The worse thing so far is that i have broken most of the raised parts off the bulkheads. They just keep getting in the way, or i am getting very clumsy. Adrian
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Hi Dave, I have been very lucky as grew my book collection many years ago before the internet spoiled everything. A yearly visit to Falmouth in Cornwall meant i brought all of the AOTS books as there was three second hand book shops and one dedicated to nautical. Most i got for around the £10 mark. Buying James Lees and many others back when you could only buy direct from Conway Maritime Press was also much better. I only had Alert to get and saw it at one of the book shops in Hay on Wye. It was second hand and not price marked. When i asked he wanted £60 which i quickly told him it was ridiculous. He wouldn't sell for less as that's what were for sale on internet. At the time it was still in print for £20. Don't think i have ever brought a second hand book for a decent price since.
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The 20 includes plastic ships. Royal Caroline nearly beat me, I modified her so much as so many errors. Enjoyed Corel's Resolution most even though not a great kit for accuracy, if did again would convert to HMS Ferret. Chatham was a delight to build. Cruiser you have to watch the stern assembly but still a good kit. Don't go to Racehorse, a terrible kit keep well away.
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I can almost smell that humbrol paint just looking at them!
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Your on a winner straight away if your wife likes it. I think my wife liked the first one. Now at 20+ she is not so keen.
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Hi AJohnson, Looking at your builds and on the shelf i think you may be the go to person for these questions. My experience of Caldercraft is that the wood quality can vary but usually provide a lot of spare and have replaced mine before with no argument. Regarding their Endeavour, i have theirs on my shelf and would not pick another current version. Worth checking though as a new version coming out by another manufacturer. I wouldn't choose Endeavour myself for a first to third build as the lines are horrible for planking. Would probably go for Cruiser, Orestes or Snake first. However, main thing is that you choose a subject that you are most interested in.
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Hi, You are correct that the lower yard on the Mizzen mast is the Cross Jack. I would also rig the cross jack braces exactly as you have described and did do on my Bounty. There was no sail on this yard but braces would be used to brace the lower edge of the sail set on the topsail.
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Airfix: Wasa Great western Victory Golden hind St Louis Discovery Revenge Bounty Cutty Sark Heller: Superbe La Sirene Phenix Spanish Gallion Thonier Armor La Tartane Revell: Mayflower Constitution Thermopylea Golden Hind Flying Dutchman Hans Kogge Batavia Santa Maria Pyro: Dutch Staten Jacht Half Moon Bon homme Richard Venetian Carrack Roman Merchant Imia: Roman Warship Greek Warship Plus a Russian 60 gun ship kit 'Priedisjinctua' To Build or part built, Airfix sovereign, Prince, Cutty Sark and mayflower, Pyro's La Reale and Alliance, Revell's Great Eastern
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This is an excellent and inspiring build. Hawse holes in a very unusual place, not in a location i have seen before. usually much closer in to the stem.
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NEW Vasa kit from Artesania Latina -- looks to be quite good
Thunder replied to md1400cs's topic in Wood ship model kits
Does look good. Wasn't sure they were still producing kits. Why do modelling companies always have a ship sailing one way but the flags flowing another. Do they think the ship will be moving so fast that the flags will fly out behind?!! -
That is a very impressive rig B.E. I love to see the extra effort to include all the sale rig as well even when depicted without sails bent. Even has the bowlines I believe. Looks like more the rig expected in a museum.
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I am a bit confused with you saying 'options'. The left looks like stage one of rigging and the right includes stage two, both would be needed to show a cannon as rigged for use. If there is an option it is how much detail you want to include. Also i would not be too worried about eyebolts as easy to make but how many rigging blocks are included.
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I think it is asking a lot of you to use a book like Anderson's especially as of a later date and allowing for locating the information you need and noticing not to use dater that is specific to ships of the line or with a sprit sail top mast. That is why i chose the mayflower book as it is the same period and same mast / sail configuration. Another book useful to you is the 'Susan Constant 1605'
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You may find that these are discussed in the mayflower book. If so take the size he suggests multiply by the mayflower kits scale and divide by the Golden Hinds scale. This will give you your size. Regarding rigging, it is a lot easier if you know what each item's purpose is as then you can see if it would work. You wont go wrong using that book, I learnt my rigging from these books and now only use the expensive books such as James Lees, for more detail due to changes made for specific dates. Read the whole book but going straight to chapter 8 he tells you when to make the modifications and to apply those awkward to reach blocks. Shame you didn't do the mayflower first as the only thing you will find is the the reference to part numbers is incorrect. However, i used this book for my Golden hind without issue.
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Hi, Decided to look in to see how your build is going. See you managed to get the book on the Mayflower. Everything you need to rig this ship is in that book, you don't really have to buy any others to get it accurate. Bit confused about your rigging and interested, without any form of malice, to know what you are trying to achieve. Did you want your rigging to be accurate or a great visual display? Only ask as cannot see how the ship would be able to sail with your configuration. Only asking out of interest. Please do not take the wrong way.
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Imagine the scene, Shipwright from one yard gets to the stage of stepping the masts and has a whatsapp group with the other shipwrights. "**** old Henslow has made this tight to fit in next to the mast bits and skylight" " I should get on to the navy board if i was you and get permission to shift it forward a few inches, be a real pig to have to move the deck beams"
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Sorry, missed your reference to the notation for Diamond and Jason, perhaps something spotted during building. You will never really know the minds at the time.
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Hi Jason, I took from the inboard profile plan for Diana J5531. Interestingly you can see similar movements on the deck plan J5527. Seems a lot of work to move an existing ship for 61/4 inches as it shows moving the bits, wheel and skylight for each change as well. Most probably for slight modifications for each successive order. Most were ordered at the same time including Artois, Diana, Diamond, Apollo, Jason and Seahorse. The fir ships Clyde and Tamar and then Ethalion were ordered later. So unless the plans were used for another class we can assume the alterations were for these last three ships. (four if take into account Clyde was rebuilt). Of course only conjecture. All the original batch seemed to have been launched within a close period of time so was not after the first to improve sea quality.
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Hi, Investigating that Mizzen mast position have come across the details below Sorry for poor drawing but hopefully can show the two locations for the Mizzen mast. One drawn in red which looks to compare with measurements of the kit. Second in green that seems to be as AOS book. Therefore difficult to say when these were moved. There is two lines plans in the NMM. looks like as originally built with open bulwarks the mast was as kit, with built up barricades as AOS. This would imply kit incorrect but still conjecture unless someone has the dates. I have not purchased the drawings so cannot read the text, can someone help with this?
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out of the 9 kits i have built only one has not had some issue like you are experiencing. to be right the forward bulkheads should overlap the bearding at their front side and the rear bulkheads at their rear edge. then once you have faired them they will be reduced back. The bulkhead you are showing with the gap looks to be far to small, I have one such as this on my present build, Diana. I am going to fair them all then pad out the gaps and do them afterwards. It really is down to experience and i still struggle with it now. However, don't worry, wood is forgiving and more can be glued back on to let you sand it again.
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Hi Mark, That link will be a great help, thank you. I think i will buy some cheap wood to practice on first. Blades and set up are limited with my proxxon so may need to invest in a saw. Adrian
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