Captain Poison

Work on the shell room continues.  I made the upper support beams out of boxwood and the blocking timbers between them of pear.  They're glued into place, but not poly'ed yet.  Once that's done, I will individually fit each of the 6 mortar pit beams into their notches on the clamps.
 

My Arsenal is complete

 

Now which way do they point...
 

Thanks so much Tom.
 
I have progress to report, but not what I said it would be. I didn't like how I was doing the port lids, so I switched to the ladders and then some other things. The ladder kits are great and make up nicely. After mounting them, I did the bulwark cleats and staghorns. Having done those, I decided to do the bulwark eyebolts for the cannon tackle. I left out those that will be drilled and mounted through the knees. Having done those eyebolts, I then decided to make up and add the deck ringbolts, which the plans show in two different sizes, as well as the eyebolts at the main mast partners. 
 
After completing that work, I began work on the head by painting the black areas in preparation for doing the actual head work. Sooner or later, I will get back to the lids.
 
Bob

Hello, thank you for your likes and Druxey for your kind words. I do my very best 😇
today I prepared the next scrolls. That are the larges and most complicated one. A Euro cent has a diameter of 16,25 mm. 
 

 

 
That is my filigree thumb, not that of King Kong!
 

I work on the snakes in the bow.
Some jobs are a blow to the heart!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

looks great Bob!

Nice progress Bob !!

7. Closing
By verifying the effectiveness of this new method with the above-mentioned way and I could produce the final set of design drawings and laser-cutting drawings after several trials.
The model design utilized the power of the software, I could add many structural parts drawings other than frame parts. In addition to further reducing the cumbersome work of conventional drawing creation, laser cutting in this method also enabled reduction of material costs and significant reduction of trimming and fairing time.
 
 In order to share this effective technique with many people, especially beginner builders who want to challenge scratch builds, I am preparing a step-by-step procedure manual " Preparation of design drawings and the new part fabrication way in structural models ". It consists of nearly 180 pages of text, over 130 picture files, and a number of design sample files.
 This also includes design data for GRANADO designed as a prototype and data for laser cutting.
 If you bookmaking the manual part like below by yourself, I am sure it will help your learning effectively.
 

 
　When you are going to apply this method, it may seem to you that investing in software is costly. All of the software I have actually raised here is a well-known subscription software and they are relatively higher price. Certainly, an initial investment in case it is done by an individual may become nearly equivalent to a power tool to buy. However, the design and fabrication benefits that this method provides are immeasurable, including the reduction of creation time. Moreover, once these data have been made, a lot of people can share them like I am doing now. Thus the total cost per person can be comprehensively reduced.
 I have designed more than ten models frame data ever by using old version of this method and so far, it is used by many people in Japan. Creating the beautiful hull curved surfaces and the part drawings that make them up is just as fun as building a model.
 
In the last, I can say that by mastering this method,
You can design your own ship models and prepare the necessary drawings with the many flexibility.
You can accurately cut the necessary parts by yourself within a noticeably short time!
These are a lot of time saving at the preparation period and finally you can concentrate to your scratch model building!
 
 I am now going to store the procedure manual files on the cloud storage etc. so that it can be shared with the MSW member who want to learn the procedure and/or use this method. It is not a commercial purpose.
 Please send PM to me for the proposal. Then I give the key to download them. I hope this action will not be violate the MSW rules.
 As I am refreshing the sentences of the manual now, please allow that it may take a while to upload them.
 
 Thank you for reading through the introduction of my method and I hope that this method will enable many people to challenge scratch building.
 
Kiyoo Iizawa
A member of Yokohama Sailing ship Modelers Club (YSMC) in Yokohama, Japan
 

 

Good morning.

It's a bit crazy to think it has been nearly 3 months since I've done anything with the Winnie.  I had gotten really busy at work and fallen into a bit of a funk from fairing the interior.  I thought taking a few weeks off might have been the medicine I needed and although it took a little bit longer, my head is back in the game.  My goal is a strake a day; maybe two on the weekends, so should finish planking around the end of April, maybe a little bit sooner.
 
Yesterday, I decided to start from the stern and found the travel iron did a great job bending planks over the filler piece.  I was also pleasantly surprised that the spring clamps made good purchase on where the planks meet the lower tuck.

 
The joints appear to clean up alright when I sand then back flush to the tuck.

 
but the joint is so thin that edges start chipping out when I sand the curve back into them.  I'm going to need to change my process a little bit and start glueing down from the stern to improve the seams.
 

 
My first attempt at edge bending went pretty well.  Not perfect, but it was a lot easier than I thought it would be and added a good deal of confidence.

 
My second attempt took 4 tries and it still seems like magic.  Can't believe how such a simple tweak to planking makes planking the bow fun.

 
Probably will hold off on updates until I finish up each belt unless I run into some sort of disaster or epiphany.

The bottles:

 

 

 

 

 

window construction:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Implementation of howitzers:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

balustrade:

 

 

 

 

 

Little step:

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the compliments! You are far too generous!
I completed the structure of the formwork and the castle:
 

 

 

 

 

Thanks!!!  I do like how those came out as well.   Nice and simple.  
 

 
 
Chuck

Thank you for your input and thoughts. Building models according to plan or their historical accuracy is a dilemma that every builder must face. Fortunately, nowadays there are already enough quality plans.
 
I waxed the railing, covered the part where there would be other equipment..
 

 

 

 

 

 
There really isn't room for a Pin Rail on the aft deck on this plan..
 

 
Preparation for channels..
 

Folks, small update from what I could do without parts 4&5, I decided to work gunports. I made such thing first time, it was very enjoyable. what do you say ?I have to finish another half.  I tried to make them with apropriate size but  im a bit sad that hinges are little wider and therefore  more prominent as they should be, but they match perfectly round openings so they open nice tightly. Im thinking to make another side smaller, wel.. also made checkered board ahead getting inspiration from Matthias Beckmann, i like it without painting- its thin baswood. only black is painted.  meanwhile one weekend / made of  inlayed woods/strips... tiles are little smaller than scale i will see if i keep them. Vlad

 

Thanks Fred, I've been getting little bits of time here and there to get work done. Sounds like you’re running wild on yours!
 
Last week I got cabin panels in along with the last double strakes, a single nice coat of red and it came out well. I had to do some minor wood filling to make some lines disappear before paint. The captains cabin panels went in pretty well with very minor adjustments.
 
Ive got the starboard spirketting almost complete, I spent some time tonight making sure my deck clamps were lined up as close as possible before I glued them on. I measured from multiple points as well as confirming with the eye test, using laser etched lines on the subdeck as a reference. This visual reference will be the final judge once the deck beams are in place. I’ll get them sanded tomorrow and start the panels before finishing the last few strakes.

Here is the finished carriage with gun in position...
 
Doesnt that cannon look great?  Hard to believe it is black resin and not brass.  To treat those,  just spray a mist of matte finish on it.  You know the stuff....spray fixative.  I use Krylon or dull coat.   I did this after removing whatever sprues and flashing with a very fine sandpaper.   
 
Once sprayed and dry I give each barrel the treatment with some weathering powders as I have described numerous times.   It really does the trick.
 

 
Keep in mind I havent applied any Wipe on Poly to the trucks yet so they appear very light.  Thats the raw cedar.  They will have a deeper color once I apply the poly.  You can also add the pins that hold the trucks onto the axels.  Its all up to you.   I have seen so many different treatments by builders with gun carriages.   You guys can have fun with these.  
 
I made the quoin handle.....basically a belaying pin like I usually do.  I chock a length of 3/64 x 3/64 boxwood in my Dremel and shape it with files.   I suppose you can buy some of those but its real tough to find nice belaying pins to scale.   The Crafty Sailor sells some nice ones.   Its up to you and how much time you want to spend on these.  Remember you have to make 24 of them.
 
 
The cap square......these are finicky details   You can put as much time and detail into these as you desire.   Check out a few of the scratch build logs and you will see some guys go nutty with these.  I tend to simplify these merely out of boredom with them and lack of desire to go beyond what you see in the photos.  My goal is to just give the suggestion of a more detailed version.  It is not a great deal accurate but because of there size this gives a great impression at this scale that they are.   The close ups are brutal but when you see them in person they do a swell job.
 
Its very simple really....the base of the cap square is literally a length of black masking tape pre-cut into 1/16" wide strips...maybe a tad wider.   Then I cut the tiniest lengths of 28 gauge black wire.....to 1/16" long.  The same width as the tape.  I place one of these wires at the front and back edges of the tape......
 
To finish it off you will notice that wire loop around the aft wire of the cap square.  This is just a tiny "U" that I made out of that same wire.  One side of the "U" was a bit longer.  I pre-drilled a hole just behind the tapes edge and inserted this "U" into it so the upside down "U" would come down on top of the wire glued to the edge of the tape.  I hope that makes sense.  Its one of those things that isnt easy to describe.
 
And finally, a picture alongside a natural version I made of the cannon.   Its dirty from handling it the last six months or so but you have seen this one.  Its up to you guys to choose if you like the painted red version or the natural version.   I am going with the painted version....it will add some color to the already colorful model.   Otherwise it may look too neutral and drab.  Only 23 more to go!!!!  I will get the assembly line going now.  I will so three batches of 8 guns.   I may not even finish these all at once and skip ahead because its tedious work.
 

 
ANY QUESTIONS???

Hi everyone,
Just a small post to say I'm not dead in the water...While I was waiting for 1/4 inch stock to arrive, I re-built the wales (again). I'm gonna put a III after my
name representing how many times I need to do things to get them ok! I jumped the gun a bit and did the complete wales including paint. The darn Canuck posties take their sweet time delivering stuff so I had some time. This time around, using true 1/4" stock the strakes kind of worked out. I'm almost satisfied but will keep trying on the opposite side to get it better. After all the radiation and chemo, the pain has settled in now with a will! Doc says the cancer hasn't come back. Damage to nerve endings and swelling etc. has me banging my head against a wall. Whenever I get a pain free minute or 3 I try to do a bit on Winnie. With luck this will let up soon and things will start getting done! First thing I will do when I get over this and back to making money is get a Byrnes saw! I want to toss this piece of crap Asian mini-saw so far! I can cut things well enough with very good results but there is no repeatability. Move the fence and it will take a ton of trial and error and waste to get it back to where it was. Imagine...Allen keys and wing nuts to tighten both ends of a fence! Just shoot me! 
 

Check page #1 post #29 Fixed Blocks..I think this is what you looking for.

Good morning.