Captain Poison

Sure. I added the condenser too. You can see the drain cocks underneath.
 

 
And here is a shot from above, for completeness.
 

 
 

Chapter 10

 
🔺️cannons are not complete yet
 

 
🔺️I'm okay with how the rails turned out.
 

 
🔺️Still no lids on for lower cannons, just too easy to knock off.
 

 
🔺️4 more cannons to make then details, no stairs in place yet, have yet to make them.
 

🔺️Transom rail...touch up painting will be required after I finish knicking it all up

Belfry and forecastle rails completed. I made the square shackle wire by bending the round wire to the required shape, and then whacked it with a hammer on an anvil and voila it was flat and square. Took several tries to get the proper shape, but wire is cheap.

Just a little more progress on the forecastle

Ship corrections 101.  
An adventure into paying more attention to the little things that can wreck your otherwise boring life.
I made the corrections to the margin planks at the qdeck. I did a scribe onto a blank paper that was taped to the beams, then scribed the existing deformity onto that sheet, cut to the scibed line, and then laid that onto the planking templates  and then cut the margin to that new shape. Laid those onto the beams and measured and confirmed all was as it should be. Looks right now. The forecastle i'm afraid will be a little more involved,  but is the same procedure. 
Onward and upward.

Just a quick update...Chapter 11 has finally begun.  It will detail the outboard stuff.  The channels, fenders and entry steps, deadeyes and chainplates etc.
 
First up are the channels.  Most kits dont detail these very well in my opinion.  Plain edges etc.  I wanted to try and emulate the profile seen on most contemporary models.  I decided on the multiple layers approach.  But this meant using an incredibly thin top and bottom layer to pull off the look I wanted.  Luckily Joe at Modeler's Sawmill was able to mill paper thin wood sheets for me.   
 
The top and bottom layers are so thin that they will curl and possibly lift up if you use traditional yellow glue.  It is just too wet.   So a really good solution which worked excellent was to use spray mount.  I sprayed only one side of the thin layers with glue and it didnt curl at all.  No need to spray the thicker center layer.  I absolutely think that you should do it this way as well.  Trust me when I tell you that if you dont, you will be emailing me for replacement parts.   
 

 
There was no curling or lifting of the edges at all.  
 
Just align the holes in the layers after sanding the laser char first.  Also soften the hard edges of the center layer before gluing up the sandwich.  Not a drastic rounding but knock-off the hard edges and soften them.   It does a nice job giving the edge profile I was looking for.
 

 
Now you can absolutely paint these but contemporary examples are all over the map.  The Winnie cont model has them painted black except for the outside edge profile.  Others leave them natural.  I decided to follow the look of the Amazon model.  They will be left natural.  Next up will be the knees or standards along the top of the channels once I finish up the other channels first.  These again may or may not be painted.  I recommend that you examine many contemporary models and select a look that you prefer.
 
 
 
 

Finished, Finished, Finished
 
The last thing to do was the final shaping of the sails simulating a starboard tack hard to the wind.
 

 
To achieve the final sail shape required many tests of different material. First I tried to spray on diluted white glue but as it dried the sample started to curl and when completely dry became almost cylindrical. Next was a flat gloss varifane sprayed with the same results as the glue. Next was clear lacquer sprayed with the air brush to keep down the overspray. When it dried it became very stiff and fragile but held the shape as I wanted. During reading about lacquer I had read that it has a tendency to yellow with age so with the being fragile and yellowing that was a no go. Lastly on a lark I tried plain old aerosol hair spray and voila. I covered the decks and using a 16" box fan on lowest setting about 4' from the model I sprayed one coat on the sails. The sails became dark with wet spray which took an hour to dry to the original color.
 
A series of photos of the completed Erycina

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 
Well she's finished and makes a beautiful display model with colored sails and red and green paint. I want to thank everyone who followed along the path and especially all those who helped with much appreciated help.
 
Many Regards
Will
 

I finally managed to get the companionway on the ship. The uprights were pinned with 24 gauge wire to the coaming. The four long rails were pinned to the uprights by turning a tiny round end into the rails with the Dremel. Holes were drilled equidistant into the uprights to accept the rail pins.

 

 
Mike

In this update, I have added the capstan pawls, the ladderway railing, the quarterdeck breastrail, the wheel and the binnacle. In doing this work, I made some choices: I decided to paint the entire breastrail black, rather than leave the uprights unpainted; I chose to do the ladderway  railing with wire stanchions and rope, as shown on the plans and as  I had done on the gundeck; I left the entire wheel bright, rather than paint the rim red; and I left off the friezes on the binnacle. All of these choices were a matter of personal preference except for the binnacle friezes, which were not used because the red color on the printouts could not be used with the red paint color that I have been using throughout the build, including on the binnacle.
 
Next up will be the quarterdeck railings.
 
Bob

Model of the Treasure Galleon “La Nuestra Señora de Atocha”, 1620 in the Archives of the Indies in Seville, Spain. No date or scale available—unfortunately my photo of the placard was unreadable—although it looked to be about 1:48. This is the galleon that foundered in a hurricane off the Florida Keys 400 years ago this September, and was found in 1985. The estimated value of her cargo, including gold, silver, and Columbian emeralds, was USD $500,000,000.

Give or take…

I have now begun work on chapter ten. The outboard deck planking had already been done, so it was time to do the center planking. This required that the hatch coamings and gratings be done first. I used the laser cut coamings and the boxwood grating kits. The planking was fitted around the coamings, using 3/16", 1/4",and 5/16" strips, which were shaped, tapered and bent to match the planking templates. After the planking was done and finished with Wipe-on poly, I added the coamings and gratings, the upper capstan, the ladder, the mizzen bitts, the mizzen mast coat and the ring bolts for the scuttles at the fore end of the quarter deck.
 
Next up will be the wheel, the binnacle and the breast rail.
 
Bob

Received my swivel guns today!
OMG they are tiny.... and so sweet.
(3D resin printed from my CAD model .stl file by a local club member)

Thank you to the admins for accepting my membership application. I am currently building the HMS Victory in 1:98, based on the original 1970s era Mantua kit 776 (not laser cut). I say based on the original because I am replacing some components of the model with scratch-built parts, currently the keel assembly. I purchased the kit new in the late 1970s and figured it was about time I built it! Not my first ship model, but the first in over 50 years! Retired from law enforcement administration, I have quite a varied background. I worked as a professional modelmaker in the 1990s, primarily with 1:48 scale narrow gauge railway models. At the time my work was published in the Narrow Gauge and Short Line Gazette, Model Railroader, and the Narrow Gauge and Industrial Railway Modelling Review for whom I wrote a series of columns titled "At The Workbench." I'm a trained furniture maker/woodworker. I also had my own graphic design/3D CGI product viz/animation studio (still dabble on occasion) and in the early 2000's I was owner/fabricator of a motorcycle customizing shop in California.
 
We currently have a YouTube channel called Whisky Workbench on which I'm documenting the Victory build while focusing on traditional craftsmanship tools and skills, and how they are appropriate and essential for model building.
 
I'm looking forward to meeting many of you here online and continuing my ship-modelling education, and hopefully will be able contribute something of value in return.
 
Deacon
Geal 'us dearg a suas

Thank you Everyone for all the likes.  I have finished planking the deck.  Made all the gun ports and started the stove.
 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Best,
G
 
 
 

Work on the booms and gaffs.

I file the booms flat where the cleats go.  There is a hole .02" thru the center and hardened copper wire to reinforce.
Metal work for the booms includes a bridle for the sheets.  They are formed from brass strip and drilled out using the sensitive drilling attachment on the mill.

After soldering...

Soldered, pickled, and blackened.  Bottom of main boom on top, top of fore boom on the bottom.
 

All the booms and gaffs will be painted white.
Maury
 

Hi...

I mitered the molding that wraps around the uprights using the disc sander.
 
I used this method on a longer piece.

 
Though I used a long piece for the photo, I used this method when the length was short. Push the stick up to until the desired length is achieved.

 
Once the uprights where completed, I used a jig to register the holes for the headstock which sits between the uprights.
 
Jigs like this help to align and hold everything together during assembly. 

 
A left over beam was used simulate the actual positioning of the belfry rail as seen on the ship. This makes it easy to see if the timberheads are at the correct angle to the deck. Tweaks where needed.

 
I backed the jig with another strip in order to add the "L" shaped piece. This keeps it inline with the timberheads.

 
I added the cover boards for the stove stack along with other fittings to complete chapter nine.

 
 

 
Mike

Good morning.

Good morning.

Wow, I have a Charles Morgan sitting in the box. Bought it on ebay for a song. Now you've got me interested in this again...

Upper part of the quarter-gallery both sides done :
 

 

 

 

Can’t say She gave me any good looks when this thing rolled up in the house. Oh well. Here we go, chapter 6!

Chapter Nine ……probably upside down