Wawona59

Your Red Jacket looks absolutely beautiful on the pedestals.  It's amazing what skilled hands can do with a vintage solid hull kit.

BTW, I think I saw your Red Jacket as an in-progress model on a video of the 41st annual Northeast Ship modelers Conference I recently saw. 

Looking forward to more "delicacies" from your workbench. 

Brush painting, I believe, is a skill that is developed over time through trial and error.  In my experience the key to a good brushed finish is to apply several thin coats of paint to let the paint level out between applications.  A good quality brush, such as an artist's brush also contributes to success.  If the paint applied is too thick, it won't level out properly.  Are you using acrylics?  I've read that some modelers use actual artists' acrylics from the tube because the pigment is ground finer.  I've had good luck brushing Tamiya acrylics thinned with 91% isopropyl alcohol.  Your pram is coming along nicely.  Don't sweat the mistakes.  They are inevitable and an opportunity to learn what does and does not work.  

Stay the course and enjoy the journey.  Sometimes I have to remind myself that we build models for enjoyment.  Carry on!  Keep up the good work.

She's coming along nicely.  The color variation in the deck ads interest.  I agree with Rob and Snug Harbor Johnny that the bulwarks bulkhead extensions need to pared thinner in both thickness and depth.  I would probably consider using a sharp chisel and pare small shavings until the desired size is achieved.  As Snug Harbor Johnny says, care must be taken here as the pared down bulkhead extensions would be fragile.  Adding some exterior planking at the bulwarks before paring the extensions will give some needed support.  Following your build with interest.  Carry on!   

Welcome to MSW Marcel.  Ship models are easy to get hooked on.  I've loved the nautical since I was a kid in the 60's.  I remember building the Revell 1/96 Constitution and Cutty Sark on a picnic table in the back yard during my summer vacations.  That is until I tried to install the sails when they caught the wind.  I also build aircraft which my modeling group displays at the Seattle Museum of Flight.

Glad to have you aboard!

A  very warm welcome to Model Ship World!  I too started modeling in the plastic arena.  I've since sold most of my kits and given away the majority of my built plastic models.  I now build primarily in wood.  I find it a more enjoyable medium to work in.

Welcome Aboard!

I applaud your decision not to use the plastic windows.  Wood always seems to look better, IMHO, even if it may look a bit over scale.  Interesting approach to making windows so they are all the same.  I've never used this method but it looks like you got some decent results.  Next time you might want to consider making the window mullions a bit thinner.  Carry on and keep moving forward.  Modeling sometimes is just a series of issues that must be resolved.  In the end, you'll end up with a model that you can be proud of; which will lead to the next model, and the next, etc. etc.  Carry on and keep up the good work.

For a first ship model I would have to recommend the Model Shipways "Shipwright Series" of three models.  This series was designed by renowned ship modeler David Antscherl.  The modeling series begins with a dory followed by a pram which is a little more challenging and ending with a shipjack.  Model Expo has these kits on sale now.  They are also offering the "Shipwright Series" as a combo which includes a basic set of tools, glue and paint.  Once you successfully complete this series, you'll be ready to take on something more challenging.

There are a number of reputable wooden ship manufacturers such as Syren, Vanguard, Bluejacket and Model Shipways.  Be careful of some disreputable manufacturers who use other manufacturer's designs without permission to make their own kits.  Checkout the list of banned manufacturers elsewhere on MSW.

 Welcome to Model Ship World and the wonderful hobby of ship modeling.

Hi Harry,

I just found your Flying Cloud Build log.  I'm surprised with the issues you are having with the keel parts not matching which then affects the bulkheads, etc.  I agree that this looks like a QC issue but you've got it sorted out.  One last thought, is there possibly any warp or twist in the keel or bulkheads which could be another cause of your fit issues? Have you considered installing filler blocks between the bulkheads to help assure they are equally space P & S and parallel?

You are doing a great job and it looks like your Flying Cloud is now coming along nicely.  I will be following along with interest.  I'm expecting to resume my Flying Fish project soon after a long, unplanned hiatus.

My next project will probably be the Drakkar "Oseberg" kit by Pavel Nikitin.  You've given me an idea for the presentation of the model.  I need to do more research as to what was included in the burial ship and how the artifacts were laid out.  Thank you for sharing.  Your woodworking and joinery is outstanding.

Wonderful Doctor's Buggy Bob.  I built this kit as a gift for my daughter who is a Registered Nurse and a horse lover.  I recall having some issues with the soft metal springs getting out of shape.  If I built another horse drawn model with leaf springs I might consider making them from scratch using brass strips.  I really enjoyed building this model.  I'll be checking in on your Stagecoach build.

BTW, I think your buggy came out better than mine.

Beautiful work Greg.  I have this kit as a "someday" project.  Your build log was very well done and extremely helpful.  I'll have to check my kit for missing parts and request them now before I start building it.  This looks like a more challenging kit than I imagined.  Hopefully ME has been able to resolve this supplier issue.

One nit-picky question; did you intend to hang your 14-bis flying into the corner of your office?  Perhaps to show off the engine and prop?  As I recall the 14-bis was a pusher configuration with the wings in the back.  It looks like a more conventional aircraft the way you hung it though.  Regardless, you've made I beautiful model and I'm impressed with your craftsmanship and representation of the bamboo.

Welcome to Model Ship World Pete.  The DDG-54 Curtiss Wilber looks like a good ship model to start with.  There's a build log for a 1/200 DDG-54 Curtiss Wilber on MSW.  Here's a link so you can check it out.

This is a wonderful modeling forum.  All of the modelers I've met online here so far are first class.

Hope you get a chance to start a build log.  Looks like an interesting project.

Welcome Aboard!

Hi Ryan,

Welcome Aboard to Model Ship World!  This is a great site with a lot of knowledgeable modelers.  As a kid in the late 60's I built the Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark. It was challenging to say the least.  I hope you get a chance to start a build log and post some pictures of your model so far.  There are a few Cutty Sark build logs on MSW.

Welcome Aboard!

Yes, I'm an NRG member and proud of it!  MSW and the NRG membership is some of the best $$ I've spent in this hobby; believe me, I've spent a plenty.  I've met so many friendly and knowledgeable people on MSW and I love the interaction with modelers all over the world and the encouragement I've received even when I've stepped back from a project to regroup.  When my NRG renewal comes up this August I'll be there to sign up again.  As coyote_6 said "I love this corner of the internet"

Welcome Aboard to Model Ship World Wayne.  Your African Queen looks like an interesting project and should look great with the figures posted by Capt. Kelso.  I've never seen the movie "African Queen" or read the book. I probably need to put this on my future read/movie list.

At first glance I thought this kit was great as it is designed to be built as an admiralty style model, kind of like the Model Shipways Confederacy.  Upon closer examination, I've changed my first impression of this kit.  This kit is marketed to an advanced ship modeler but I think it falls short.  An advanced modeler would not make but jointed carlings for the exposed gun deck framing.  They also would not be happy with the inaccurate fittings and oversized belaying pins.  The stern galleries would probably be replaced, etc. etc.  Upon completion, this would result in a very nice "decorator model" that the builder could be proud of.

The market that might be interested in this kit would be a modeler with few kits under their belt who is newly retired and looking for a challenge in their retirement years.

If I were going to plunk down $1,700.00 for a ship model (unlikely) there are other models on the market more deserving of my $$.  Here's a few: Syren Winchelsea, Bluejacket Wyoming, Vanguard Indefatigable.

This model does not appeal to me.  I'm sure Occre will sell a few though.

Hi Capt Kelso.  Beautiful start on your Kate Cory project.  I'll be following along if you don't mind.  I don't think you can go wrong with the plans by A.R Ronnberg Jr. Everything I've seen of his is first rate.  Tom Lauria's web site and YouTube channel is also a great resource for your Kate Cory project. When you get to that point, you might also want to check out his video on scale effect.  All of his videos are well worth the time.

I wish you the best on your project.

Hi amateurmodelbuilder  that looks like a good first project.  Look at some of the build logs on MSW for solid hull model ships.  There are many to choose from but off the top of my head a recommend Clipper Ship Red Jacket by John Ruy.  His build log will give you a good idea of what is involved in building a solid hull kit.  When you begin building your model, start a build log and include some photographs of your progress.  You don't have to write a novel; just enough to describe what you are doing.  This is also a good time to ask questions.  You will ALWAYS get a response with positive comments and suggestions.

Now, for your question about painting.

In my opinion, surface preparation is the key to a good final painted finish.    Also, don't feel like you have to paint he whole model after you've built it.  You will get better results if you paint sub-assemblies before you install them on the model.  For example:  1.  paint the cabins, hatches and deck furniture before installing them on the deck. 2.  Paint the bulwarks and waterways before planking the deck, etc.

Surface preparation:  Surface preparation is the key to a good final finish.  Take your time.  Sand the hull down to 220 grit.  Some modelers may even go further to 280 or 320 grit.  Shellac is a good sealer.  It comes in spray cans, premixed brush on and flakes that you can make your own.  I've even used spray can automotive primer with good results.  I've found the primer fills in tiny scratches or small imperfections.  If needed, (if your sanding exposed bare wood) add another light mist coat of primer.  You can use #0000 steel wool for this step.  As mentioned earlier by Dr. PR, steel wool can leave steel particles.  You can also use sanding pads "Scotch Brite" that you can find in the paint/finishing department of any well stocked hardware store.

Painting:  Your model can be painted by either spray painting or brush painting.  I prefer brush painting with acrylic paints.  That's just my choice.

Spray painting:  Unless you already have the equipment, don't go out and purchase an airbrush and compressor at this stage.  You don't need it.  Spray painting can be accomplished with "rattle can" paint that you can get at the hardware store or hobby shop.  Try to use "rattle can" paint formulated specifically for modeling.  Good model paint brands are Tamiya, and Mr. Color.  These are lacquer based, dry quickly and are less likely to run.  However, the fumes are bothersome, especially to other family members in the house.  You can also use hardware store spray paints like Krylon or Rustoleum.  Be careful, these are thicker and tend to build up faster which can cause runs.. 

Brush painting:  This is my preferred method using acrylic paints.  The downside is that it takes longer with more care.  The upside is that I can paint my models in the house without the stink or noisy compressor.  The key to a good brushed finish is high quality paint and high quality brushes.   I prefer Tamiya and Mission Models acrylic bottled paints.  I find the pigment for these is ground finer than other brands.  On occasion, I've also used artist's acrylics in a tube, such as Windsor & Newton.  I thin them with 91% isopropyl alcohol in a small plastic condiment container with a plastic snap on lid. (like the ones you can get at your local drive-thru). The mixed paint is usable for several days so you don't have to do all of the painting in one session if you mixed a custom color.  For brushes, stay away from the bargain brushes from who knows where.  You will most likely be disappointed and the bristles occasionally fall out and stick in your paint job.  Get the best quality brushes you can afford.  I prefer natural hair brushes although there are some synthetic bristle brushes that are reasonably good as well.  With proper care, natural hair brushes can last for years. For starters, you can get by with a1/2" or 1/4" flat brush for large areas and a flat 1/8" brush for smaller areas.  You will also need a couple of small round brushes for detail painting.

I apologize for this long response.  I didn't intend to make this a treatise and kind of got carried away.  Hopefully, there are some tidbits here that you can use.

Oh, and by the way, WELCOME TO MODEL SHIP WORLD.

Welcome to Model Ship World Nic.  What a beautiful model ship.  It would be a shame not to keep this model in the family and hand it down to future generations.  My suggestion is to finish it as a hull model sans full masts, and rigging (although that would be impressive).  This would be a HUGE undertaking for someone with no ship modeling experience but may be done with persistence.  Based on my experience here on MSW I'm sure there may be some ship modelers in the UK who might be willing to finish it for you or guide you to finishing it yourself.  You should be able to finish the work since you have previous woodworking experience.  Finishing it yourself as your skills develop will add to the legacy of this model as it is passed down within your family.

I wish you al the best with this amazing project.

Welcome Aboard!

Bonjour, Welcome to Model Ship World.  Many of us have similar stories.  We built models when we were young and then college, careers, and family interceded (a good thing).  Many of us are retired, or soon to be, and are emerging from "The Dark Side" (limited or no modeling".

BTW, don't worry about your English.  Your English is much better than my French.   Au revoir!  

Welcome Aboard!

Regardless of the "undocumented features" that sometimes arise, I'm thankful to have access the content here on MSW.   " Happy Modeling All"

58 minutes ago, Jaager said:

Might this tool help with getting a uniform thickness?

https://bridgecitytools.com/products/hp-8-mini-block-plane

Jaeger - Thank you so much for this tip.  This looks like a much better way to go compared to the way I've been doing it by hand.  It's probably more precise too.  I'll definitely check this out.  Price doesn't seem to be too outrageous compared to the use I will get from using it. 

On 12/27/2023 at 2:26 PM, kgstakes said:

That was one of the reasons I wanted them.  Quality and as far as the slicer there is nothing out there that has the heft of a quality tool that this one does.  I’ve cut so far up to 1/4” thick poplar with it.   Cuts are excellent and yeah they’re expensive but like they say you get what you pay for.

 

 The sander I’m finding already that I go to it more than my little sanding block for touch ups.  It’s just really handy and everything stays square!!

Another word about expensive tools, for the most part and I’ll stand by this in my wood shop as well, buy the best you can afford.  In time you will be able to buy more accurate tools and better tools.   But as far as power tools,  you really don’t need them.  Many many great modelers (past and present) probably don’t have any power tools.  They are the true craftsman of their trade as far as I’m concerned.  Nothing beats doing things by hand and we all need to (world) just need to slow down just a bit and get your favorite beverage, put some easy listening music on and just slow down and build something by hand.  I’ll guarantee you, you will be proud of what you’ve done and it will be time well spent.

 

 May even find you like it, like many of us and it’s our escape from all the busyness is our lives.

 

Well said kgstakes!  Hurray for using (quality) hand tools!  About 99% of my modeling work is done with hand tools only.  My "go-to" hand tools include a Lie Neilson block plane, a L.S. Starrett 3" adjustable square and 6" steel rule.  I also use the Ultimatiion slicer, sander and repeater.  I can vouch for their quality.  I wouldn't be surprised if some of the power tool I rarely use will be going bye-bye.

Wooden ship and aircraft modeling is mental therapy for me.  I'm recently retired and frequently give my models away to a happy kid.  Nothing de-stresses me more than kicking back with my friends J.S. Bach, A. Vivaldi and W.A. Mozart with my favorite beverage making wood shavings. 

I'm still trying to figure out how to make wood strips and inlay using just hand tools.  I'm sure I'll figure it out at some point.

I agree with you kgstakes; "Nothing beats doing things by hand and slowing down.

WOW!  I've never seen any ship model like this before.  This is absolutely fantastic!  I think this is a candidate for framing for the modeling room.  I hope you have recovered or are recovering from your heart surgery.  When and if I ever get a chance to build my dream model of the lumber schooner Wawona I'd like to do a photoshop similar to my profile icon.  Well done!

Just discovered your build log today.  Your log is like a good novel, I just couldn't put it down.  Incredible work on the deck and gilding!