allanyed
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Planking Bulkheads
allanyed replied to robert203's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Robert, Good advice from Russ, ask the shipwrights at the Constellation. There are usually one or two around during visiting hours. It may also depend on the use of the bulkheads and if they are permanent or removable. I have seen bulkheads with vertical planking and some with horizontal planking. With vertical posts spaced every two feet or so, the planks are easily set in place across the posts and not meant for being removed on a regular basis. Panels that can be removed more often had the planks in vertical positions with horizontal or diagonal cross pieces much like a door. Lavery's Arming and Fitting gives a lot of information on bulkheads, but these may not be appropriate for an American frigate,. Allan -
Fairing a Hahn POF hull
allanyed replied to butch's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Mark is correct, there are as many ways as there are builders, and if the method works it is the right way to go. I usually build the cant frames first, thus fair them first. I usually do some pretty aggressive fairing before setting them in place, then after every two or three frames are set, more fairing and finally finisht the fairing after all the cants are in place. The inboard surface for the square frames are easy by comparison, I use a Dremel rough sanding in tight spots and a mouse sander where there is room. Sanding sticks with various shapes and grits work well for the final fairing. Allan -
HMS Euryalus by egen -
allanyed replied to egen's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Egen It really does look great. I need to go back to the contract and drawings to respond on the sleepers questions. I do remember conversations between Wayne and me before coming to a conclusion but I do not remember if the results were gleened from information in the contract, Steel or some other source. Sorry for the delay in this response. Allan -
Hi Jay. Thank you very much for the information and the search you did. My description of my book wish list was poorly worded, sorry for that. I do have Lavery's Arming and Fitting but cannot find Adrian Caruana's volume II for a reasonable price. Volume I is out there for under $400, but only goes to 1715. That is about where I start in my modeling so I am on the hunt for volume II. Thanks again Allan
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Brian Lavery's Arming and Fitting English Ships of War gives a lot of information on British armament. Adrian Caruana's History of English Sea Ordinance is probably the best source of detailed information. Wish I had a copy of this two volume set! Allan
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Dan, Many years ago a friend and I made a set of glass and gel coat molds used to make a couple fiberglass models of Islander 30 sail boats. To get scale non-skid surface areas I masked of the area that was not to be textured. The uncovered area then received a thin coat of resin. Last I used an old fashioned dust sprayer (remember the scene in the Godfather One where Don Corleone is spraying tomato plants with his grand son) and sprayed glass micro beads which actually looked and flowed like a powder. The texture was perfect and of course glass lasts and can take a paint over it as well. Allan
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Dan Sweet!!! Metal work can make or break the appearance of any model in my opinion. Your metal work is looking oh so nice! Any detailed photos on the how you are doing everything and anything will be most welcome. Allan
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HMS Euryalus by egen -
allanyed replied to egen's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Egen, Number 1 is the correct location The drawing attached shows the line in red. You can also see this in the plans in the inboard profile. Allan
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HMS Euryalus by egen -
allanyed replied to egen's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Rob and Egen, In almost all cases where there was inconsistency between Steel, the Astrea/Curacoa contract and the drawings, the drawings were the default that I used. There were dozens, perhaps hundreds, of items where there were inconsistencies. It was a happy day when two out of three of the sources matched. I will look at the model and drawings to see if I can remember how I came to the conclusion I did reach on making the part itself. Allan -
Rob, I cannot tell you how much fun it is to watch your build, along with Egen and anyone doing Euryalus or other ships in the class. Careful with the stern timbers. I waited until much later to set them in place as I was worried about knocking them off before before they were fully framed and the counter planking completed. Great job, and thanks again for sharing Allan
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Hi Dan Very happy to see your log. Thanks for sharing details on how you are doing the various steps and please do keep them coming. She looks terrific. Allan
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Don http://www.seawatchbooks.com/ $75 plus S&H. I have volume I and have learned quite a few tips from Ed's book. There are many things that would be useful to any model and any level builder. Allan
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Dan, I agree with your use of wood as a substitute for metal for the bearings. I have used English boxwood for such small parts and painted it a grimy black. So far no one seems to have noticed they are not metal. Allan
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Beautiful detailing. Allan
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Greg, I never tire of looking at your posts. SUPER! Allan
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Tony The following are the scantlings for a 16 foot cutter found in W.E. May''s book which were taken from Steel, so we are talking about 1800 +/- Floors Sided 1 1/4" Moulded at the head 1 1/8" Moulded at the throat 2" Futtocks Sided at the heels 1 1/8" Sided at the heads 7/8" Moulded at the heads 7/8" Scarph of the timbers: 1'7" Hope this helps you Allan
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Clay, Further to your note on having a copy of the original drafts there are often quite a few notes and sketches with references, dates, etc. as you have no doubt found. Wayne incorporated them as much as possible on the Euryalus drawings. One of the copies of the orginal drawings that we had, a cross section, shows changes made to some of the later vessels in the class and signed by Seppings. With NMM now electronically sending, the colors do indeed give further information and make it easier to interpret some of the lines. Wish they did not charge an arm and a leg for such a scan and send. I would have thought it would be less expensive than the paper copies but I guess not. Your build is looking really great and a joy to follow. Allan
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Gary, Long before Model Ship World was started, I have been following your built for a long long time and it has been a treat. Thanks for sharing during so many of the steps along the way. Allan
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HMS Euryalus by egen -
allanyed replied to egen's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Egen I had my doubts that your idea would work, but am now a believer that there is always something new to consider or actually try. Allan -
sport29652 The appearance of the woodwork looks very nice. Regarding your request for feedack on the cannon rigging, couple suggestions, so hope you don't mind. It looks like you ran the running rigging through the eyes where there would be another block. The blocks that you do have there appear to be oversized, which may be the reason it did not look right in your earlier tries. For the blocks that you did use, the hole in the blocks through which the line passes should be towards the bulkhead. The missing blocks would have the holes opposite. The ends of the lines were more likely frapped rather than coiled on the deck. Again hope you don't mind the comments. Allan
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I suggest getting a copy of McCaffery's Ships in Miniature for "how to" information and Donald McNarry's Ship Models in Miniature for photos of many small scale models. Allan
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Looking for tips on creating sail seams by pencil
allanyed replied to bhermann's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Bob, For sure try the sewing. For me I find the stitches to be out of scale so went to pencil. Jay, NICE cross stiching on the bolt rope. Re: what material? I use 800 or 1200 TC linen in off-white color. The fine weave is about as close as I can get to scale with linen. Allan -
Belaying Pins
allanyed replied to allanyed's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Guillermo Yes I did try to preweld and then file the handle shape. The heat needed for silver soldering softens the brass so it is too weak when chucked in the drill and bends as soon any pressure is applied. Allan -
Ron There is a note on making pins that would have 0.020mm smallest diameter pins in the deck furniture forum posted February 24th that may help you. I suspect I should have posted it in the rigging forum. Allan
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The photo is of the paper written by George Stockwell who built the model of the HMS Bristol and found in the model as pointed out by Greg in an earlier post on this thread. I am not sure, but it may still be on loan to the Art Gallery of Toronto. The note says This model was made May the 7, 1774 By Geo Stockwell Shipwright at Sheerness Yard This is actually a copy of the original and put on display with the model. Allan
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