allanyed
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Everything posted by allanyed
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Great suggestion. I agree that in this case it is good to pin the rudder in place. IF you want the rudder to be able to turn, then working metal parts are best. A last alternative is to draw the parts in 3D and have them printed in 3D. These could be the most realistic looking parts at smallest scales if drawn accurately. Allan -
The finish on your hull planking looks very nicely done! Regarding the wales at the bow in the pictures in post # 12 above, you may want to see a recent discussion on the tapering of the thickness of the wales. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34868-wales-diminishing-thickness-at-the-bow/ Thanks for sharing your build! Allan
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Hi Aydingocer This is great as you show a very clever way to do this with a simple tool such as your drill. Do the yards on a sixth rate have an octagon center quarter? The octagon shape in the center quarter of the yards started about 1690 according The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, page 13 but Lees does not say if all yards on all rates had this design feature after 1690 so I am curious. Volume IV of TFFM by David Antscherl describes the octagon on the yards of a 14 gun sloop. If they do take this shape, it is probably easier to make the octagon at the maximum dimension needed, then sand as you have clearly shown leaving the center quarter as an octagon. Allan
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Do not be too hard on yourself, it is obvious you are making a great effort to get things right and are to be congratulated for doing so. Allan
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The pintles and gudgeons are fun little projects to practice soldering techniques, congrats for giving it a go! If not too late, or for the future, the below shows the approximate sizes of the various parts and number of bolts on a typical 32 gun British ship in the 1790s. I suspect the Spanish ships would be similar. For your scale of 1:85, the straps would be 0.047" (1.2mm) wide, the pin would be about 0.035" (0.9mm) and the bolt heads would be about 0.018 (0.45mm) Note the lengths of the straps and the number of bolts as well. I show the dimensions of the lower one, but you can size the rest using the scale to get an idea of their respective lengths. For the lower ones at your scale, they are about 0.53" (13.5mm) and 0.81" (20.6mm) The materials used were typically copper or iron. If you use copper you can blacken them once installed with liver of sulfur to represent iron or leave them clean to show as copper. Again, it may be different for Spanish ships, but this information should be close. Allan
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Barring the possibility of a personal visit to Mystic, try https://mysticseaport.org/contact-us/ Using the number on this site you may want to call them first to get pointed to the proper person that will be able to help you rather than just sending a written enquiry. Allan
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Welcome Geoff, glad to have you aboard! Allan
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Mitsuaki I agree with Dean, the holes for the pins in the first photo in post #4 above look much too large. For some great information on making belaying pins take a look at the Euryalus build log by Matiz. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/24583-hms-euryalus-by-matiz-scale-156/page/9/#comments, posts #252, 253, and 254 as well as the photo from his log below. He made all his pins to scale. Allan
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As Dave points out in his post #6 part of the difficulty in making the rabbet is that the angle is dynamic and is not at 45 degrees or any specific angle the entire length. Some folks have found that a SHARP chisel can be a far easier tool to use to get the angle required to match that of the frames/bulkheads. Allan
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Hi, from Balearic Islands, Spain.
allanyed replied to Miguel Juan Calvo Fürst's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome aboard Miguel Your project looks to be very interesting and hopefully a lot of fun. I am sure you will get all the support you need (maybe too much😀) When I say too much, for example, when it is time for the cannon, please feel free to PM me as I have detailed drawings of three patterns of Spanish cannon covering circa 1715-1756, 1756-1765, and 1765-1805 that I can send to you if you want them and compare with your plans. Allan -
The Vanguard boats really are good, but alas, the scale is wrong for your 1:72 build as Alistair states. It is not very difficult to make your own boats and they will look realistic. There are a lot of contemporary plans and all the scantlings needed readily available if you want to give that a try. Allan
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It is fantastic that you researched this. Having done that I am guessing you realize gratings themselves look nothing like those from the kit. You can make or get more realistic grating materials to go with the head ledges and coamings that you will be making. I have only seen realistic looking after market gratings from Syren, but hopefully there are others available as well. Key things to remember are that the openings are typically 3" or smaller, there are no openings in the grating next to the head ledges and coamings, and the battens run fore and aft, not athwartships. It might be preferable to make the gratings first, as close as possible to the size needed, then build the frame of coamings and head ledges around the grating. Note that the head ledges and gratings round up on British ships. Not sure if it was the same on Spanish ships like your Diana 1792. Allan
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Thanks Druxey. I will go with the modesty excuse, but truth is I forgot it was there. Bruce I am PMing you regarding these pages Allan
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Bruce, I am not sure how much information in Lavery's Arming and Fitting book will be useful, but it has a number of drawings amongst the 9 pages describing single and double capstans from the 17th through the early 19th centuries. Allan
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You are absolutely right, but it is worth it to do it correctly. Yours is not only beautifully executed, the contrast in sizes of the ratlines and shrouds is fantastic. We see a lot of models that have ratlines that are oversized in circumference. Your rigging overall should be seen by everyone as it is a great example to try to emulate.
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Belated Happy Birthday FM. And best of luck with your forthcoming classes and endeavors in the maritime history field. Allan
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British 74's were launched starting about 1760 so rigging drawings from before that may not be applicable. Other than the photo of the Bellona model that you posted, the drawings or photos that you copied might not be applicable. Did you study the photos of the Hercules 1759 (or Thunderer)? They are applicable and may be of some help. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66271 Maybe contact the museum to see if they can give you more help as well. Allan
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Steve What John wrote is the best way to go in my opinion. If your hull is a little out of shape compared to the plans this method will compensate for any variation. I would cut two at the same time so one can be flipped over and be a mirror image rather than making two tracings. If the variation of the hull itself starboard to port is slight, the cap will cover this up as they will be symmetrical. Allan
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Dick, Take what Phil wrote very seriously. My go-to pickling material is Sparex but there are surely other brands or methods. Once pickled tinse the piece with water and then blacken with BC or other brands. Remember that once pickled do not touch the piece with your fingers as any oil on your fingers can screw up the blackening. Allan
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Tim, Were Blomefield cannon on Speedy as well as the carronades? If they were indeed Blomefields, you can take the STL drawing to any 3D printer and tell them the dimensions that you want and they can scale to size and print them black resin for very little cost. I also attached the 2D below to give you an idea of the actual shape of the cannon of that era. Allan 12 pounder Blomefield pattern WITH George the 3rd BADGE (1).stl.glb
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Hi 3Bs This is very interesting, thank you for sharing. Can you say where you got the plans for the USS New York? For the future, if you have not already done so, there is a ton of great information to study on proper planking in the articles data base here at MSW, (https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf) and in a four part video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM by Chuck Passaro that you may like. Allan
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Now I understand why they all are identical. That in itself is a great achievement. Sorry if I missed it, but is the toothpick wood or plastic or some other material? From the photo it is hard to tell but it looks something like those in the picture below. Thanks!! Ciao Allan
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Bob, I have never had a good experience with LOS on brass. It works beautifully on copper, but no luck for me so far on brass. Is there a trick or secret as I really prefer it to other agents as it can be used on a piece in situ without staining the wood around it. Thanks Allan
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Hi Glenn, You and the Winnie builders are among a lucky (and well informed) group.😀 I still wish someone could find a written description, especially if based on contemporary information describing this feature. It is an obvious feature on contemporary models, but it would be great to see this described in old documents. Allan
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I totally agree, but thankfully with the nail punches they have they will appear to overlap unlike the original ones that came with the kit. Allan
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