allanyed
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Bill You do not mention what ship and era. Do you need internally stropped or externally stropped? There are more options with externally stropped but in either case if you really want beautiful blocks, get them from Syren. They make other after market blocks look totally amateurish not to mention unrealistic which they are. Allan
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VERY nice start. I am on for the entire trip. Mark, please be ready to share the popcorn. Allan -
By far one of the finest looking ship's boats here at MSW Beautiful work Craig. Allan
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HMS Granado by ir3 - CAF - 1:48 - POF
allanyed replied to ir3's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
Framing is very well done IR3 How deep are the scores in the clamps? When they were scored (and this was not always done according to Goodwin in The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War) it was only an inch, so at your scale 0.02" I have found it difficult to do this before installing them and get them to perfectly align port and starboard so if I score them it has been easier for me to do this after they are fixed in place. Using pre-scored clamps, I hope yours are easier to align than I have experienced. Allan -
Unfortunately I have propagated the problem Druxey as I used the same exact figures in the Scantlings of the Royal Navy when compiling the various sources of scantlings for the book and at this point I am not sure how to provide the corrections. Allan .
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Tiller tackle
allanyed replied to Dr PR's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Totally agreed. There is a TON of information from contemporary plans, contracts, and text from the 17th century on and it gets better into the 18th an 19th centuries, but in the words of Gilda Radner, It's Always Something and these little things take longer than many of the bigger things to figure out. I just found discrepancies this morning in the Simm Comfort edition of The Elements and Practices of Naval Architecture scantlings by David Steel that would make for very obvious possible mistakes on deck for some larger vessels regarding the heights of the coamings and head ledges. Allan -
Tiller tackle
allanyed replied to Dr PR's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I imagine it came about sometime not long after the introduction of the centerline rudder. I could not find anything specific but the following article from Johns Hopkins is interesting and may shed some light. https://muse.jhu.edu/article/33297 Allan -
Further to this information, Steel gives scantlings for the head ledges and coamings for each deck. Examples: Folios XXXIV and XXXV Upper deck of a 16 gun Coamings stood 1' 1" above the deck and were 4 1/2" thick at the underside and 4" at the upper side. The head ledges were 3 1/2" thick and rounded 1" By contrast for the upper deck on a 44 gun, Coamings stood 1' 3" inches above the deck and were 6" at the underside and 5" at the upper side. The head ledges were 5" and rounded 1 1/2" NB I THINK there MAY be an error in the Sim Comfort version of the scantlings that I just spotted. For the dimensions for 50 gun to 110 gun, the height above the deck on the upper deck is from 3 1/2" to 4" I THINK it should be 1' 3 1/2" to 1' 4" to remain consistent with the others. They did vary with time, but a 1795 Navy Board order stipulated that coamings were to be built well clear of the deck, approximately 15 in to 18in above deck level. For the gun deck, the opposite large difference exists with the larger ships having a height above the deck of well over 1 foot but for smaller ships, only 3 or 4 inches. I have no idea if these scantlings are correct in all cases or not. If they are correct, I do wonder why the massive variation, especially going from the 50 gun to the 44 gun ships. Allan
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Assuming you are speaking about wood, there are choices but the two most popular in our hobby are probably PVA carpenter's glue such as TiteBond and there are a lot of fans of cyanoacrylate. If speed is your need, CA helps as it only takes a few seconds to start the bond, but it is has drawbacks just like anything else. If you have respiratory issues, CA may be a problem and is not forgiving due to the fast cure time. Carpenter's glue takes much longer, up to a minute, to hold parts together if they have been properly fitted together. If parts have tension pulling them apart the parts need to be held to together longer so the PVA needs a lot more time. For metal to wood epoxy is a good choice but the cure time is very long. I am sure you will hear more from other members. Try them all and see what works best for you. Allan
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79 years ago today 5000 vessels took part in the largest combat landings ever made. Ships and sailors from MANY countries took part and many made the ultimate sacrifice along with their soldier brothers, Pics below are from our recent visit May 23 -25, 2023
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Rather than gluing them in the steps inside the hull set them in place and wedge them where they pass through the deck as was done on the actual ship. If that is going too far, a dot of glue where they pass through the hole in the deck should be sufficient and it is located where you can unglue it with IPA or water if necessary. The standing rigging should add more security to this little bit of gluing to keep them in place. Allan
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New from Minnesota-MS Constitution
allanyed replied to Minnesota.Tom's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome to MSW Tom. Good luck with your build!! Allan -
Richard, Far from perfect does not necessarily matter. Think of the Japanese principle wabi-sabi, the acceptance and love of imperfection in all things. It takes some of the sting out of our own imperfect results. The main thing is that you got started and you finished. Often we learn best by doing, by throwing ourselves into the deep end as the saying goes. In the meantime, to use a sometimes annoying aphorism that showed up in various places in the 1970s: Fake it 'til you make it. Allan
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Welcome to MSW Wyatt !!!! It would be nice if you posted a little introduction about yourself in the new member forum. Are you plating a model of the Cutty Sark, a clipper like the Cutty Sark or is it a warship? Have you contacted RMG? They are not always fast, but they do respond. If it is for the Cutty Sark you might want to ask them if the size of the plating today is the same size as when you want her to appear. The original plating was muntz metal. The sheathing today is a different material so maybe the plate sizes are different as well. For British naval vessels full plates were 15" wide by 48" long. They overlapped top and sides 1.5" and were nailed with 0.25" nails spaced about 1.5" to 2.5" apart. Allan
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It is great to see a kit with a tapered knee of the head and a figurehead that is not bow legged! Well done. I hope this project is a total success for you. Allan
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The shipyard must have found the same thing as that is what I have seen explained in books and on contemporary models.😀 Nice work! Allan
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B.E. That is an understatement if ever there was one. Kit or scratch, custom fitting is part of the fun for these little pieces. These are among the very best looking stops I can remember in the kit build forums in a long time. They are not overly thick which seems to be a common error in many other models. Hard to tell from the photos but are the side stops resting on the bottom stop or on what would be the sill? She is looking super!! Allan
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From what I have been able to research cattle are not totally color blind but they see greens and reds more as black and shades of gray. Allan
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I see this was your first post so a warm welcome to MSW Uwe. 😀 Please post a little intro in the new members forum about yourself. Allan
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Welcome to MSW Piotr, There is a trove of information here at MSW that can help you build a fantastic model. Research everything you can even before you start the first build, then continue to do so throughout the process. You have 43,000 new friends and helpers here at MSW. Allan
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Check out https://www.aliexpress.com/i/2251832830158277.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt for copper chain which can be cleaned up and blackened with liver of sulfur. Brass is also available. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802570905883.html?pdp_npi=2%40dis!USD!%248.00!%246.80!!!!!%402103245416856155621711101e9208!12000022048011234!btf&_t=pvid%3A557a3e42-49b4-44a5-9fab-e34608a2e767&afTraceInfo=1005002757220635__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1685615562&spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.mainProduct&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa It can be left as is or cleaned up and blackened with an appropriate agent. Prices look cheap, but this may be an indication the chain is junk. LTBB Allan
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Hi Mr. Herbert, Which size fishing schooners? If your are talking about chain link length something may be amiss if they had the tiny links you describe. A description of link sizes can be found in The American Fishing Schooner, by Chapelle on page 318 where a link is shown and dimensions given. I doubt that anyone can make this as a blanket statement but Chapelle gives schooners of 75 feet or more using chain with links as much as 5 " long. Smaller schooners had links about 4 1/4" X 2 1/2" The stock (diameter of the material used to make a link) would be about 3/4" to 7/8" diameter. Chain at Model Expo is usually sold in links per inch. For 1:48 each length it would be 10 to 12 links per inch. (4 to 5 links per centimeter) Unfortunately Model Expo chain is for smaller scales as they show none in the right size for schooners at 1:48 (if one agrees that Chapelle is giving accurate information.) There are other sources that I found with a quick search. One example is at https://cloverhouse.com/Cart/product_info.php?products_id=13498 I have no idea where you are located, so this may be a useless source for you as it is in the USA. Allan
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Bravo!! The research is an important endeavor if an accurate and realistic model is desired, and, it can be as satisfying as the build itself.
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Hi Sam, Thanks for posting the introduction. If having a great attitude has anything to do with success in this hobby, you will certainly be building some fine models! Welcome aboard. Allan
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Could not have said it better!
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