allanyed
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Your constant attention to detail is an inspiration to a lot of members. Allan- 648 replies
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See you again in 2025 Mitchel 😁 Just kidding, I really do hope you find the time to get into the build and share photos with us. STAY OUT OF THE SHOPS, (unless they have tools and models and fun stuff. 🤪) Cheers Allan
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Welcome to MSW Will. Love your neck of the woods and its history. Get to visit north and west of you with one of our boys and his family in New Hanover. Love all the old stone homes including the Fisher Crouse house circa 1770. Hope to see you have some fun here. Allan
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Always a joy to check in on your build log. Don't know if you have seen them , but there have been a couple recent posts here at MSW on diminishing the thickness of the wales as it approaches the rabbet. Most modelers are unaware of this feature, but it is something to consider. Your choice of course, but maybe something to think about. Allan
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Welcome Eindride Your project and the reason for it are extremely interesting! Best of luck with it. Hope you start a build log and post some photos of your replicas. Allan
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Hello All - From Santa Barbara, CA
allanyed replied to Blu330ciracer's topic in New member Introductions
Blu WELCOME aboard! Are you researching the ship or the model? If the ship itself I assume you have found the The Rudder article from 1919 https://www.google.com/books/edition/The_Rudder/Z7M6AAAAMAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&bsq=clipper+thermopylae&pg=PA583&printsec=frontcover and have contacted the folks at the Aberdeen Museum. https://www.aberdeencity.gov.uk/AAGM/about-us/contact-us Research can be very rewarding as well as very frustrating. Some years back, two of us spent several hundred hours researching one particular ship before cutting one piece of wood, so do not get frustrated. Allan -
Alain Bienvenue a toi, notre nouvel ami Mr. Tosti's books are among the very best so I am sure you will enjoy your adventure. Allan
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ECK Hope your summer in NC is going well.😀 I never thought about this design feature of tapered wales at the bow until it came up in a discussion about 15 years ago and again with Grant Walker at Preble Hall in Annapolis in 2011 where the diminishing thickness is very clear on the models. I wish I had better closeups to share. It is not so difficult to make this taper even if the wales are on the model, but before the bow and hawse hole fixtures are in place. Might take some fiddling at the rabbet, but it can be done. Allan
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Which one are you going to rig? She is possibly best known for being part of the squadron in the battle of Sullivan's Island. As a single squadron, I suspect she carried a red ensign at least at that point in her history. You probably already found this in your research, but if not the only pic I could find is the watercolor attributed to James Peale and it appears it was a the red ensign rather than the white or blue that the squadron carried. Note the Sphinx is third ship from the right. Allan
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Hi James, Below are a few pics, the first of HMS Squirrel. The next two are from Preble Hall. In the second photo the wales can be seen to be flush at the rabbet with the other planking. In the third photo the wales can be seen protruding below the black strake on the far left and nearly flush with the other planking as it reaches the hawse holes. My apologies if these are not super clear as my photography abilities are lacking along with many other things.😕 You are welcome ECK!😀
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Very nice kit and your planking is looking very well done. Are you going to taper the wales so they appear to sit in the rabbet like the surrounding planking? If you look at contemporary models you will see that the wales do not stand proud at the rabbet otherwise they cannot be seated in that groove. Is this addressed in your instructions? The taper on contemporary models appears to start at about the position where the cant frames are located. Allan
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Kevin, Nothing wrong with your current name at all. Yours is more interesting than mine and many others to be sure. Allan
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Hi Dave, I really do not remember where I read about this in the past but I do remember discussing this years ago at Preble Hall with Grant Walker as well as seeing this in their collection of contemporary models. They all seem to be tapered in thickness for the last 5 to 10 feet or so. Allan
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Navy guy excited to be here 🏴☠️
allanyed replied to GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH's topic in New member Introductions
A huge thank you for your service and a warm welcome to MSW. Your comments on planking and attention to details is fantastic. Study the tutorial here in the articles section by David Antscherl (https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf) and watch the four part You Tube video by Chuck Passaro and choose which suits your needs. Both work well and yield beautifully and accurately done planking. As you likely have strips of wood for planking in the kit, Chuck's method is probably going to be more useful for you. Part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM Do start a build log and never be afraid to ask questions when they arise. Allan -
Hi David It is hard to tell, but did you taper the wales at the bow? They taper in thickness to match that of the other planking so they fit in the rabbet properly without having to make a notch as some folks do. Couple photos from Preble Hall follow. Hard to see but if you look closely you can see how the ends match the surrounding planks to fit into the rabbet. Allan
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Are they internally stropped? I don't see any on their website. Those that I see on the website are not at all appropriate for a late 19th century fishing schooner that you mentioned was the subject vessel. Thanks, Allan
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There are examples on the RMG Collections site. Several contemporary model examples https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66300 and https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66359, https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66325, https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66357 From Lee's Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, page 184, the length of the ensign staff was 1/3 the length of the main mast above the taffrail and the diameter was 1/2 inch per 3 feet of length. The ensign staff tabernacle looks to be a bit thin in your photos in post #1 above. Looking at photos of contemporary models the tabernacles look to be closer to 10 or 12 inches deep. Not a big thing, just curious if anyone knows if there was some kind of standard for this. Are you going to rig the staff and hang an ensign? Allan
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HMS SUSSEX by KarenM - FINISHED - 1:48
allanyed replied to KarenM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Thank you for the explanation, it is very much appreciated. Allan -
TOWTT - Your screen name made me think of the below photo on a cruise ship circa 1900. Super warm welcome to MSW. Allan
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HMS SUSSEX by KarenM - FINISHED - 1:48
allanyed replied to KarenM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Beautiful work!!! Can you describe a little bit about your carving techniques and what type of tools and wood your are using? Where duplicates exist such as on the beakhead bulkhead and the wreaths around the ports, each piece looks identical to the other which is remarkable. Спасибо Карин Allan -
Sorry Dave but do you mean the 84" (I know it is hard to see on the small drawing attachment) which in THIS case is from the aft edge of the aft most gun port to the aft perpendicular which I believe is the aft side of the rudder post at the load water line. Cheers Allan
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I scaled the drawing to 1:64 and get 17mm. IF the contemporary drawing is correct, it could be the kit got it wrong. I was curious to know what the AOTS book showed dimensionally so downloaded their drawing and compared. (Forgot I had that book 😕) There is a 10" difference between the AOTS and the drawing from 1774. Note that the widest part of the quarter gallery is the same on the original drawing and the AOTS drawing. Allan
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Hi Dave FWIW, the scantlings in The Shipbuilder's Repository shows these ports for a 38 at 35" fore and aft and Steel's Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture gives them at 34" Further they both give the distance from the aft side of the after most port as being 7 feet 0 inches forward of the aft perpendicular. Even with these scantlings I would compare them to a contemporary as-built drawing or at least a contemporary design drawing or a contract. I would not rely on modern drawings without first comparing them to contemporary based drawings and/or scantlings. Once bitten, twice shy. Allan
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Yes, but originally the sketch was meant to also show open edges on one which is not correct, Sorry for the confusion. Thanks for pointing this out😀
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I got curious and inserted your photo into the drawing as well. The gun ports per the drawing should be 35.5" fore and aft. I sized your photo to match the gun port width of the drawing. Given that port dimension on your model is correct, the dimension I gave above of 128.5" looks to be closer to 144" on your model. The openings for the lights are 22" and the space between 17" compared to the 26" and 7" on the drawing. I am probably not making any sense, but maybe the below will help. I realize this is not accounting for the slight curve in the z axis, but should be pretty close IF the dimensions I am guessing at on the model photo are close. Sorry for the full size dimensions, but it is easier on the CAD drawing for me. Allan
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