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Many thanks for the suggestion James. 😀 As this applies to all builds, not just kits, it makes a lot of sense. It's good to have folks post these kinds of things in multiple forums to capture a larger audience. Allan

You have chosen a huge project and showing a great start. One of the nice things about this ship is that you can compare your modern day plans to the contemporary plans and models at the RMG Collections site. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/search/Royal William plans 1719 & https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66183 Regarding the lower wales, notice how it diminished in thickness at the bow so it rests in the rabbet as in the photo of the RMG model below. Allan

Historical question. Did the head ledges for the gratings round in 1577 as they did in the 17th century and onwards? Regardless, based on your start, I am SURE your model will surpass the awful piece on sale for $42,000. https://www.1stdibs.com/furniture/folk-art/nautical-objects/henry-culver-model-revenge/id-f_18564572/#skuId=f_18564572S1 Then again, PT Barnum's comment may come into play here. If they get that price you should get closer to $100K Thanks Allan

Hi Eck Sorry for the miscommunication, but when I mentioned contemporary, I meant contemporary to about 1800, not today. I realize the modern definition of contemporary can be different and can be confusing because of its slightly different meanings. In this case I meant the old definition where it refers to things from the same era as certain other things. For instance, when Victory was contemporary to the reign of George III. Regarding the modern day photos, as of a couple years ago keep in mind that all but about eight of the cannon on Victory are fiberglass or some other material other than metal so I would not assume anything about those in the photo is correct without corroborating evidence. They may be, but again, I would love to see information from the 17th through early 19th centuries that explains the rigging. As the cannon patterns changed a lot and carriage designs changed as well over this 200 year time span perhaps this part of the rigging did as well. For the photo of the USS Constitution as she is not a British ship some would hesitate to consider her as an example for what is found on British ships such as HMS Indefatigable. I am sure there were similarities in some things and that would be an interesting topic, but as with the Victory, the photo of the Constitution is modern thus not necessarily useful to the late 18th century or early 19th century. Allan

Can you post photos of how you made the belaying pins? These are spectacular in shape and scale. WELL DONE!!! Allan

Bill I don't recall any book or article that goes into very detailed step by step methods for stropping blocks but it would be nice to learn of one. Volume IV of TFFM by David Antscherl has some great photos and drawings of single and double stropped blocks that may help you. In general it is a great book for lessons in masting and rigging. Allan

Congrats on taking the time to find better material and thanks for sharing your information.!!! The burlap-like junk found in some kits is so far out of scale it is shameful and have completely ruined many otherwise very nice looking models. Allan

All I can say is Allan

The ensign really does look good! Can you give us the name of the textile paint and the TC of the cotton cloth you used? Thanks Allan

Pertsa Welcome to MSW. Please post a little intro about yourself in the new members forum here at MSW. Hope you will start a build log as it will be interesting to see an older kit assembled and how the parts compare with the kits of today. Allan

The video really is interesting and obviously took a lot of work. But, there are a number of things in the video that are wrong, so I would not rely on it without finding confirming information elsewhere. For example the art work for the guns does not show the hooks on the end of the lines. Also, the outboard trucks look to be the same diameter as the inboard trucks rather than having those closest to the bulwarks substantially larger in diameter. Regarding the blocks themselves, these are supposed to be 32 pounders on the lower gun deck so they would have carried the double and single block if Caruana is to be believed. In the end, it does not take away from your workmanship in the least, I was just curious to find specific contemporary information one way or the other. Allan

ECK Continues to be VERY neatly done! This subject has reared its ugly head a number of times, so apologies for raising it again. I am still hoping to find out if there is any contemporary source regarding the rigging blocks used on the guns. Do you have a source that suggested that you use a double block and a single block on the running out tackle for the cannon instead of two singles? From The History of English Sea Ordnance, Volume II, page 386 by Adrian Caruana The running out tackle consisted of a rope (the fall) and two blocks (both a single except for 32-pdrs which had one single and one double), each equipped with a hook. The same applied to the train tackle which you do show with two singles. I have no idea what his source is for this information, and I have not found any contemporary source that actually addresses this. I have seen modern day drawings and modern reproductions but nothing stating it is based on actual practice in the appropriate time frame. Allan

Thank you for the great little treatise Bob! I will surely try the shellac in the future to see if it works as well or better than matte medium which I find also works very well. Allan

Thukydides From what I researched, when there was a fleet sailing, the red squadron was headed by the senior most commander/admiral and carried the red ensign, the second (white ensign) was lead by the second most senior commander, and the blue by the least senior. I believe single squadrons would carry red squadrons if not part of a fleet. Hopefully some member has more details on this or correct things if I have it wrong. I tape silk span to a standard sheet of paper when printing flags. When I do the drawing in CAD I copy in place twice so it will print exactly the same three times. I use the print command from the CAD program to be sure it triple prints. Hope this makes some sense. Allan

What/where will these be used? Is it for a plastic model or wood or some other? A little more detail may bring up some alternative solutions that you would like to try. Allan

GSV I have the red ensign and white ensigns drawn if you want them. (see below) Just let me know which one and what size and I can PM it to you or you can try to copy and use these. It is printed so you can fold it over as it obviously needs to be done on both sides in mirror image. If I go with silk span I triple print one side only as the ink soaks through and the flag is not so thick having only a single layer. If you have any kind of CAD program you can do this as an alternate method rather than do two sides and fold it over. I also like to use silk span as it can be draped properly very easily. From what I have researched the white ensign is appropriate for second squadron vessels and the red for first squadron vessels. The white ensign design below was used between 1707 and 1800. The last photo shows the draped flag, & in this case it happens to be a US flag on a newly designed schooner. Allan '

Could not agree more. 😀 There was a uric acid (urine) treatment posted in the recent past that looked great as well . Would this work on this particular copper material as well as the steel wool treatment did for Kevin? Allan

Maybe put up a separate post in one of the other forums such as the plans forum or framing, planking forum here at MSW and ask if anyone can steer you to some well done tutorials or books and such. Not a tutorial, but Doris' build log of the Royal Katherine here at MSW may be of help to you. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/15981-hms-royal-katherine-1664-by-doris-155-card/#comment-497721

Your constant attention to detail is an inspiration to a lot of members. Allan

See you again in 2025 Mitchel 😁 Just kidding, I really do hope you find the time to get into the build and share photos with us. STAY OUT OF THE SHOPS, (unless they have tools and models and fun stuff. 🤪) Cheers Allan

Welcome to MSW Will. Love your neck of the woods and its history. Get to visit north and west of you with one of our boys and his family in New Hanover. Love all the old stone homes including the Fisher Crouse house circa 1770. Hope to see you have some fun here. Allan

Always a joy to check in on your build log. Don't know if you have seen them , but there have been a couple recent posts here at MSW on diminishing the thickness of the wales as it approaches the rabbet. Most modelers are unaware of this feature, but it is something to consider. Your choice of course, but maybe something to think about. Allan

Welcome Eindride Your project and the reason for it are extremely interesting! Best of luck with it. Hope you start a build log and post some photos of your replicas. Allan

Blu WELCOME aboard! Are you researching the ship or the model? If the ship itself I assume you have found the The Rudder article from 1919 https://www.google.com/books/edition/The_Rudder/Z7M6AAAAMAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&bsq=clipper+thermopylae&pg=PA583&printsec=frontcover and have contacted the folks at the Aberdeen Museum. https://www.aberdeencity.gov.uk/AAGM/about-us/contact-us Research can be very rewarding as well as very frustrating. Some years back, two of us spent several hundred hours researching one particular ship before cutting one piece of wood, so do not get frustrated. Allan

Alain Bienvenue a toi, notre nouvel ami Mr. Tosti's books are among the very best so I am sure you will enjoy your adventure. Allan