allanyed

Ciao, and thanks to all ☺️
 
 

Congrats on taking the time to find better material and thanks for sharing your information.!!!   The burlap-like junk found in some kits is so far out of scale it is shameful and have completely ruined many otherwise very nice looking models.   
 
Allan
 

Bill
 I don't recall any book or article that goes into very detailed step by step methods for stropping blocks but it would be nice to learn of one.   Volume IV of TFFM by David Antscherl has some great photos and drawings of single and double stropped blocks that may help you. In general it is a great book for lessons in masting and rigging.    
Allan
 
 

The ensign really does look good!  Can you give us the name of the textile paint and the TC of the cotton cloth you used? 
Thanks
Allan 

Thank you for the great little treatise Bob!
 
I will surely try the shellac in the future to see if it works as well or better than matte medium which I find also works very well.     
 
Allan
 

All I can say is

Allan

All I can say is

Allan

I started the tedious phase of building and installing the gun port lids. One quarter of the vessel, at a time....
 

 

 

 

 
CAF Models provides enough PE parts to make them movable and fully hinged. On my model, I have simplified the articulations and glued the lids into the ports. Just a couple of dozens to go.....
Yves 
 
 

Thank you for the great little treatise Bob!
 
I will surely try the shellac in the future to see if it works as well or better than matte medium which I find also works very well.     
 
Allan
 

ECK
Continues to be VERY neatly done! 
 
This subject has reared its ugly head a number of times, so apologies for raising it again.  I am still hoping to find out if there is any contemporary  source regarding the rigging blocks used on the guns.   Do you have a source that suggested that you use a double block and a single block on the running out tackle for the cannon instead of two singles?  From The History of English Sea Ordnance, Volume II, page 386 by Adrian Caruana  The running out tackle consisted of a rope (the fall) and two blocks (both a single except for 32-pdrs which had one single and one double), each equipped with a hook.  
 
The same applied to the train tackle which you do show with two singles.  I have no idea what his source is for this information, and I have not found any contemporary source that actually addresses this.  I have seen modern day drawings and modern reproductions but nothing stating it is based on actual practice in the appropriate time frame.  
Allan
 
 

Let me add one more thing to the above "tome." "Flaming" the thread used for reefing lines to remove any "fuzz" before use is highly advised. Dark line "fuzz" contrasts strongly with the lighter sail material.

Thank you for the great little treatise Bob!
 
I will surely try the shellac in the future to see if it works as well or better than matte medium which I find also works very well.     
 
Allan
 

I've found that using PVA glue is tedious because it takes the glue a while to dry and you have to hold the reef point in place until it does. That can be a problem when you have to hold the entire length of the reef line against the sail to get it to hold its proper shape while drying.
 
I use white (clear) shellac instead of water-based PVA glue. I thread the reef point through the sail with needle and thread long enough to allow me some thread to work with (e.g. two or three times the length of the reef line.) I remove the needle and tie an overhand, figure-eight, or surgeon's knot tight up against each side of the sail to hold the reef point line in place on each side of the sail. Then I place a strip of masking tape on the sail face with its upper edge the same distance from the line of reef points as I want the length of my reef lines to be. (The reason for this is explained below.) Remember to determine the scale length of your reefing lines. There's no precise rule that I know of, except "not too long and not too short, but definitely not the same length from row to row." Reefing lines need to be long enough to encircle the reefed portion of the sail and be tied off with a reef knot, leaving a bitter end sufficient for holding and untying the reef knot. The length of the reefing lines must be sufficient for the amount of canvas that will have to be secured by the reefing lines at each line of reef points. This depends on the size of the sail and the placement of the lines of reef points. Each line of reef points must secure all the canvas below it so if a sail were divided into three equal areas by two lines of reef points, the upper line of reefing lines would have to be approximately twice the length of the reefing lines through the lower line of reef points.  If the lines of reef points don't equally divide the sail into separate segments, the length of the reefing lines required to secure the resulting roll of canvas will have to be individually determined.  If there are sail gaskets on the head of the sail or fastened to the yard, they would correspondingly have to be approximately three times the length of the reefing lines in the first row of reef points in this example, or, in other words, sufficiently long to encircule and secure the entire furled sail.
 
I then take a paint brush loaded with white shellac and, holding the long end of the thread out away from the sail, and taking care not to flood the knot and send the shellac soaking into the sail material itself, I place a drop of shellac onto the knot and reef line on one side, spreading it down a bit farther than the intended length of the reef line. (i.e., the shellac should end on the masking tape itself when the reefing line is pulled down where it's supposed to end up.) The thin shellac will immediately wick into the knot but, if done carefully, should not wick into the sail itself. Hold the free excess end of the shellac-soaked reef line away from the sail and gently blow on it for a few seconds. (The dry free end of the excess reef line keeps the alcohol from getting all over your fingers which when they get sticky will make a mess of it all.) The alcohol in the shellac will quickly evaporate and the shellacked reef line will become increasingly tacky as the drying shellac thickens. Gently pulling the un-shellacked free end of the reef line downward and perpendicular to the head of the sail (or to whatever other angle you desire) and against the sail, use tweezers, a hemostat, or a similar tool to gently press and hold the sticky reef line against the sail into the final position that you want it to take. It's best to use some sort of pointed metal "positioning tool" to place and hold the sticky reef lines because such a tool will only contact the sticky shellacked reef line in a small area and can be easily be pulled free and rinsed off in a small container of alcohol and wiped clean as you go, preventing a sticky buildup of drying shellac on the tool tips. Try to resist the temptation to use a finger to push the sticky reefing line against the sail. You want the reefing line to stick to the sail, not your dirty finger and the small area of a metal tool point will pull free of the stuck reefing line leaving it attached to the sail much easier than the far greater area of adhesion that occurs when your whole finger tip has become glued to it as it dries. The "finger tip method" causes the reefing line to pull free of the sailcloth because more of it will be stuck to your finger than to the sail. The sticky shellac should cause the reefing line to stick well to the sail in short order. Blowing on the shellac speeds the evaporation of its alcohol solvent. If adhesion proves insufficient, apply a bit more shellac to the underside of the reef point line, blow on it for a few seconds until it gets tacky, and try sticking it again. Let the shellacked reef point dry, adhering firmly to the sail. When it is dry, cut the reef lines to the desired final length with a sharp pointed iris (medical) or embroidery scissors using the upper edge of the strip of masking tape you placed on the sail to mark the desired uniform scale length of your reefing lines across the face of the sail in a neat straight line. After all the reefing lines are cut to length, all the trimmed off-cuts, which will likely be shellacked to the masking tape, can easily and neatly be lifted off of the sail along with the masking tape without leaving any shellac on the sail below the ends of the trimmed reefing lines. 
 
This job can be done in any order you prefer. I've found the most efficient method for me is to tie in all the reef lines on one line of reef points on each side of the sail and then shellac, position, and cut to length all the points on one side of the sail and then turn the sail over and do the same on the other side. I install one row of reef points at a time.  Keep in mind that there is a technique involved. The reef point stopper knots are most efficiently tied into the reef lines on both sides of the sail using an overhand or surgeon's "instrument knot" tied around a needle holder or hemostat. This permits the two knots on each side of the sail at each reef point to be tied tightly against the sail without any free space between them. Search for "tying surgeon's instrument knots" or "tying sutures with instruments" on YouTube to watch tutorials on tying knots with surgical instruments. (If you haven't learned these skills, they will change your life as a ship modeler. Their training in the use of medical instruments is one of several reasons why doctors and dentists are generally such good ship modelers.) Once the length of the reefing lines is determined and you've placed your masking tape strip across the sail to mark this length and you are ready to start shellacking, remember to keep your hands out of the shellac. Otherwise, you can fall victim to the "tar baby effect" and end up with fingers to which everything sticks but which are useless for getting anything done. To this end, take the long end of the reef line in your nondominant hand and do not let go until the shellacked reef line is stuck to the sail and masking tape right where you want it. Better yet, if you have a suitable instrument such as a needle holder or hemostat, grasp the end of the long reef line at a point just below where the reef line crosses the lower end of your masking tape length marker and use that instrument to control the line instead of your fingers. In that way, you can leave the line to be held by the instrument if you must let go of the instrument. Use your dominant hand to apply shellac from a small cup or jar and to manipulate the tool you will be using to put the sticky reefing line where you want it to be. Use your dominant hand to rinse your shellac brush and positioning tool in a small cup or jar of denatured alcohol as need be.  You might want to imagine yourself a surgeon as you install your reefing lines. You want to "keep a sterile surgical field" within which to work and you want to use your instruments to do what your fingers are too large to do. Once you get in a rhythm installing reefing lines, you'll find that it's a task that can be performed rather quickly and precisely without a lot of practice.
 
The shellac will seal the knot in the reef point, secure the reefing line in the proper position on the face of the sail, and prevent the free end of the reef point from unraveling. If you are careful to work neatly, there should not be any visual evidence of the shellac on the reef point lines or the sail when you are done. The advantage of using shellac for this purpose is that it dries very fast and, should the need arise, more shellac can be added if greater adhesion is required. Sticky shellac has excellent archival qualities. While the method may seem involved, it's really a lot easier to do than it is to describe. The shellac allows the reef points to be stuck flat against the sail for the entire length of the reef line, providing a proper scale appearance. Shellac is very forgiving to work with. It cleans up very easily with denatured alcohol, which instantly dissolves it.

Other than soaking them in glue, is there a way to make reef points behave? The reef points on my 1:24 scale sails go in any direction but down! I think they are going to drive me mad!
 
 

IIRC, British admirals were graded by seniority (Rear, vice full) and within grade (red, white, blue).  At Trafalgar, Nelson was vice admiral of the white.  Ships directly under the command of that admiral would fly the admiral's colour.  Since ships operating independently and squadrons under command of a non-admiral worked for a particular admiral or area commander in chief, they would fly his colour.

What/where will these be used? Is it for a plastic model or wood or some other?  A little more detail may bring up some alternative solutions that you would like to try.
Allan

Thukydides
From what I researched, when there was a fleet sailing,  the red squadron was headed by the senior most commander/admiral and carried the red ensign, the second (white ensign) was lead by the second most senior commander,  and the blue by the least senior.  I believe single squadrons would carry red squadrons if not part of a fleet.  Hopefully some member has more details on this or correct things if I have it wrong.
 
I tape silk span to a standard sheet of paper when printing flags.  When I do the drawing in CAD I copy in place twice so it will print exactly the same three times.  I use the print command from the CAD program to be sure it triple prints. 
 
Hope this makes some sense.
 
Allan

Thukydides
From what I researched, when there was a fleet sailing,  the red squadron was headed by the senior most commander/admiral and carried the red ensign, the second (white ensign) was lead by the second most senior commander,  and the blue by the least senior.  I believe single squadrons would carry red squadrons if not part of a fleet.  Hopefully some member has more details on this or correct things if I have it wrong.
 
I tape silk span to a standard sheet of paper when printing flags.  When I do the drawing in CAD I copy in place twice so it will print exactly the same three times.  I use the print command from the CAD program to be sure it triple prints. 
 
Hope this makes some sense.
 
Allan

GSV
I have the red ensign and white ensigns drawn if you want them. (see below)  Just let me know which one and what size and I can PM it to you or you can try to copy and use these.  It is printed so you can fold it over as it obviously needs to be done on both sides in mirror image.  If I go with silk span I triple print one side only as the ink soaks through and the flag is not so thick having only a single layer.  If you have any kind of CAD program you can do this as an alternate method rather than do two sides and fold it over.  I also like to use silk span as it can be draped properly very easily.  From what I have researched the  white ensign is appropriate for second squadron vessels and the red for first squadron vessels.  The white ensign design below was used between 1707 and 1800.    The last photo shows the draped flag, & in this case it happens to be a US flag on a newly designed schooner.   
Allan
'

 

What/where will these be used? Is it for a plastic model or wood or some other?  A little more detail may bring up some alternative solutions that you would like to try.
Allan

Letraset was acquired by Windsor and Newton some time ago. I don't know that they still make letter and number transfer sheets. That technology was one which went the way of the dodo bird when desktop publishing fonts became available. I'm guessing they are no longer made by Letraset since I've seen them offered on eBay as "NOS" ("new old stock") for much more than I ever paid for a sheet back in the day. Perhaps somebody else is manufacturing them, but I haven't noticed them in the art supply stores in some time.
 
"Hot" transfer sheets are easily made if you have, or have access to, an electrostatic (laser) copy machine. The trick is to mirror-reverse that lettering font you want and print that on the "dark" setting. This will give you a mirror image of the type you have chosen imprinted with a thick layer of black toner powder. You can then take that copy and lay it face down on wherever you want the lettering to be transferred and gently go over it with a medium-hot clothes iron. This will melt the toner again so it sticks to the surface of the item you want to attach it to. This takes a bit of experimentation, but works quite well once you perfect the technique.
 
The other alternative is to purchase blank decal sheets which can be run through your home printer to create your own decal sheets.

Hi
I am going very slow...Next little thing to make was the stern lantern using the Syren Model 1/64 version. A truly brilliant mini kit but very tricky to build. To call this small is very much an understatement - it is tiny and some parts ridiculously so. The macro photography takes you way beyond beyond what you can see. For absurd detail, I added a wick to the candle. The only panic was popping a glazing panel inwards during handling after fixing the top on. I drilled a hole through the door and gently pushed it back into place with a wire. First rule when modelling at this size and breaking something - don't panic and find the fix. Only departure from the kit is the crank - basswood in the kit but I replaced with 1mm diameter solid brass rod which is fitted into a hole drilled into the base parts. It feels much more solid than a bit of wood glued to the base.
 


 
The lantern catches the setting sun as HMS Fly sails out of Dusky Sound, Fiordland, New Zealand - the background photo is taken by me in Dusky Sound and is my computer wallpaper (it is not is not blurry in reality!)

 

Beautiful work!!!   Can you describe a little bit about your carving techniques and what type of tools and wood your are using?   Where duplicates exist such as on the beakhead bulkhead and the wreaths around the ports, each piece looks identical to the other which is remarkable.  
Спасибо Карин
Allan

Usernames are, for me, like passwords - I always struggle to come up with something and kevin-the-lubber was a very off-the-cuff choice. It's fine for forum use but if I do manage to open a little 3D parts shop it's not a great label, is it! Anyway, I'm still pondering on it so we'll see.

Your constant attention to detail is an inspiration to a lot of members.  
Allan