allanyed
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allanyed got a reaction from Canute in Greenwich Hospital barge of 1832 by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
With all of your work that I have had the good fortune to see up close and personal over the years, this one blows me away as much as the "big" builds.
Painting a burl finish?? Please tell me you did not also make that US 25 cent piece you show in the photos :)
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in Greenwich Hospital barge of 1832 by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
With all of your work that I have had the good fortune to see up close and personal over the years, this one blows me away as much as the "big" builds.
Painting a burl finish?? Please tell me you did not also make that US 25 cent piece you show in the photos :)
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from dvm27 in Greenwich Hospital barge of 1832 by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
With all of your work that I have had the good fortune to see up close and personal over the years, this one blows me away as much as the "big" builds.
Painting a burl finish?? Please tell me you did not also make that US 25 cent piece you show in the photos :)
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from gjdale in Greenwich Hospital barge of 1832 by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
With all of your work that I have had the good fortune to see up close and personal over the years, this one blows me away as much as the "big" builds.
Painting a burl finish?? Please tell me you did not also make that US 25 cent piece you show in the photos :)
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from WackoWolf in Greenwich Hospital barge of 1832 by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
With all of your work that I have had the good fortune to see up close and personal over the years, this one blows me away as much as the "big" builds.
Painting a burl finish?? Please tell me you did not also make that US 25 cent piece you show in the photos :)
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from michael mott in Greenwich Hospital barge of 1832 by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
With all of your work that I have had the good fortune to see up close and personal over the years, this one blows me away as much as the "big" builds.
Painting a burl finish?? Please tell me you did not also make that US 25 cent piece you show in the photos :)
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Jack12477 in Greenwich Hospital barge of 1832 by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
With all of your work that I have had the good fortune to see up close and personal over the years, this one blows me away as much as the "big" builds.
Painting a burl finish?? Please tell me you did not also make that US 25 cent piece you show in the photos :)
Allan
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allanyed reacted to carlosgf in Mediator 1741 by carlosgf - Scale 1:48 - Howard I. Chapelle's version
Hi all. A few progress:
- fixed blocks in bulwark
- reinforcement in the deck order to put the hatchways, scuttle and companionway.
- holes fot the pumps (note that pumps are inclined, nor vertical)
- hatchway, main hatchway and scuttle
- begining og the deck
- hawse holes
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allanyed reacted to druxey in Greenwich Hospital barge of 1832 by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Thanks again, folks.
Now for a change of pace. To complete the outside of the hull, the rudder needs to be made and hung. To avoid damage, the base had to be made now. I decided on a nice burl veneer for this purpose - except that I had none on hand. Drawing on my experience of faux finishing, I painted the burl on ply using the three colors shown. The outer edges will be trimmed using brown stained and polished wood (at top). All these elements can be seen in the photo.
Assembly will be done tomorrow.
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allanyed reacted to druxey in Greenwich Hospital barge of 1832 by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Well, you'll all have to wait a bit yet.
The forward deck/platforms are made and fitted. The same card template strategy was used as for the footwaling and aft platforms. There are a few more details on the thwarts to take care of: iron strap standards that attach them to the side. Then there are small corner benches to make and fit just forward of the coach (cabin).
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allanyed reacted to kurtvd19 in Masking Problem
Mike:
You are on the right track - always cover the lighter color with the darker color. When you have a ridge between colors try dragging the smooth top side of your fingernail over the ridge along the length of the ridge as soon as the tape is removed - always try to remove the tape as soon as possible. The paint must be dry to the touch but do it ASAP. I use acrylics and can unmask the edge within 5 minutes and then use the fingernail trick. Don't keep doing it as you might rub some paint off - once is enough - don't be afraid of using a bit of pressure. The nature of acrylics is to "lay down tighter" as they dry so the fingernail is just helping the process along. Acrylics can look a bit thick when first applied but they lay down soon.
Hope this helps,
Kurt
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allanyed got a reaction from thibaultron in Masking Problem
I have sprayed or brushed a clear coat over the tape edge allowing it to seep under the tap and then let it dry, before painting. The clear coat seals the edge of the tape so paint will not seep in. Of course the tape should be tight to the wood to start, but the clear finishes the sealing. Just be sure it is the same clear you will be using on the finishing of the unpainted wood, be it flat, semi gloss or gloss.Multiple layers of paint are thus not needed and no lifted edge problem.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in Masking Problem
I have sprayed or brushed a clear coat over the tape edge allowing it to seep under the tap and then let it dry, before painting. The clear coat seals the edge of the tape so paint will not seep in. Of course the tape should be tight to the wood to start, but the clear finishes the sealing. Just be sure it is the same clear you will be using on the finishing of the unpainted wood, be it flat, semi gloss or gloss.Multiple layers of paint are thus not needed and no lifted edge problem.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Canute in Masking Problem
I have sprayed or brushed a clear coat over the tape edge allowing it to seep under the tap and then let it dry, before painting. The clear coat seals the edge of the tape so paint will not seep in. Of course the tape should be tight to the wood to start, but the clear finishes the sealing. Just be sure it is the same clear you will be using on the finishing of the unpainted wood, be it flat, semi gloss or gloss.Multiple layers of paint are thus not needed and no lifted edge problem.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Canute in What lays first?
Hi Telp
Yes the coamings and head ledges rested on the beams and carlings, but some other deck furniture such as capstans and ship's wheel pedestals the planking ran beneath them.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in What lays first?
Hi Telp
Yes the coamings and head ledges rested on the beams and carlings, but some other deck furniture such as capstans and ship's wheel pedestals the planking ran beneath them.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Telp in What lays first?
Hi Telp
Yes the coamings and head ledges rested on the beams and carlings, but some other deck furniture such as capstans and ship's wheel pedestals the planking ran beneath them.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from trippwj in What lays first?
Hi Telp
Yes the coamings and head ledges rested on the beams and carlings, but some other deck furniture such as capstans and ship's wheel pedestals the planking ran beneath them.
Allan
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allanyed reacted to rafine in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
I have now mounted the topmast and added the topmast stay, topmast shrouds and topmast backstay. These complete the standing rigging. The combination of scale, size and a relatively simple, but interesting, rig have made this a very enjoyable process.
Now, it is time to turn to the yards and running rigging.
Bob
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allanyed got a reaction from thibaultron in What lays first?
Hi Telp
Yes the coamings and head ledges rested on the beams and carlings, but some other deck furniture such as capstans and ship's wheel pedestals the planking ran beneath them.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Canute in Removing Blacken-It from Brass
Hi Mark,
Why does it need reblackening? If it needs this after a few years I would be worried about what happens once the parts are on board the model?
Have you tried a pickeling solution? I don't know that it would work on the blackened pieces, but I find it the best method of cleaning brass before blackening as it takes off any protective coating, finger oils, flux from silver soldering, etc, and leaves a microscopically etched clean surface that blackens better than any other method. Might be worth a try.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Canute in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
Thanks again to everyone for the compliments and likes. I will try to post more pics when I return next week from traveling on business. No golf and no ship modeling for over a week, the withdrawal systems are already cropping up!
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Canute in Scratch building stern lights
Cutting slots that small with the saw may be tough as the blade widths are probably too much. Chisel or other sharp hand blade may be better.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from tlevine in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
Thank you Omega, and to everyone for the "likes", it is very much appreciated.
Deck planking and bulwark stanchions came next. Once the bulk of the deck planking was complete the stanchions were made and glued in place. They are shown clearly on the isometric drawing so it was pretty clear on how they looked and were placed. Deck filler pieces between the stanchions was a hassle, but time and patience work wonders.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from tlevine in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
Next up is the deck framing. The mast steps were added before hand. I did plank the trunk cabin as I had considered furnishing it at that time. The lodging knees were only added where the deck planking was left off for viewing.
Allan
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