allanyed
-
Posts
8,149 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
allanyed got a reaction from Canute in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
The frames are doubles and the framing plan is quite detailed on where they lie on the keel. The isometric drawings were a big help in framing the stern area and the bow area. I used poplar for the frames. After planing to the proper thickness I glued two sheets of wood together with the grains running at 90 degrees to each other. The frame drawings were printed on label paper then adhered on the laminated wood sheet and cut out on my scroll saw. I am no draftsmen compared to Wayne K, Druxey, and so many others here. I downloaded the plans from the L.O.C. in TIFF so was able to insert them into my Turbo Cad drawing with very high resolution. I then used the body plan to make the frame drawings, including the frames between the stations. It was just a matter of dividing the space between the body plan lines at 5 or 6 points along the curve then using arcs to draw the frames. Not necessarily the way they did them in real practice, but it worked out well with minimal fairing needed.
The keel was marked for each frame location. The square assured the frames were set at 90 degrees verically in relation to the building board and 90 degrees to the keel horizontally. Spacers were used between each frame to maintain spacing and to give some rigidity.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from Canute in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
I wanted to build a schooner fully framed and found as detailed a set of plans as possible for a Gloucester schooner on the US Library of Congress website. I started building the Effie M. Morrissey (renamed in 1948 the Ernestina) about 3 years ago and have been back and forth on her as a couple other projects intervened.
The building sequence is nothing unusual, starting with the keel, stem, and stern post, which are made of Costello Boxwood. Note the angled piece under the keel. This was temporarily glued to the bottom of the keel so it would stand at the proper angle during the framing process. The frames were hung at ninety degrees to the building board, not the keel. This was shown clearly on the drawings although hard to see in the photos.
Next up, framing.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from Elia in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
Thanks Patrick, fire away with any questions.
Scale of the build is 1/4" to the foot. I inserted the L.O.C. drawings in TIFF format into Turbo Cad as they had the best resolution. It was then easy to take the drawings up to full size with the CAD program using the scale on the drawings and then scale down to 1/48.
More photos from earlier on in the build follow. The first is framed with keelson and deck clamps in place. The second shows the hull planking partially sanded with a "window" to show the framing. Planking is poplar. The color of poplar can vary but as it was later painted, it was of no concern. Some Plastic Wood filler was used before final sanding and painting, mainly at where the planks were not a perfect fit at the rabbet. With painting, I did not feel the need to be quite as careful as I would normally be when I am not painting the hull.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from EdT in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
The frames are doubles and the framing plan is quite detailed on where they lie on the keel. The isometric drawings were a big help in framing the stern area and the bow area. I used poplar for the frames. After planing to the proper thickness I glued two sheets of wood together with the grains running at 90 degrees to each other. The frame drawings were printed on label paper then adhered on the laminated wood sheet and cut out on my scroll saw. I am no draftsmen compared to Wayne K, Druxey, and so many others here. I downloaded the plans from the L.O.C. in TIFF so was able to insert them into my Turbo Cad drawing with very high resolution. I then used the body plan to make the frame drawings, including the frames between the stations. It was just a matter of dividing the space between the body plan lines at 5 or 6 points along the curve then using arcs to draw the frames. Not necessarily the way they did them in real practice, but it worked out well with minimal fairing needed.
The keel was marked for each frame location. The square assured the frames were set at 90 degrees verically in relation to the building board and 90 degrees to the keel horizontally. Spacers were used between each frame to maintain spacing and to give some rigidity.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from Rustyj in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Chuck,
If you are going to fully rig those guns, I know a place to get really fine small blocks. Beautiful workmanship throughout!
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from hexnut in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
The frames are doubles and the framing plan is quite detailed on where they lie on the keel. The isometric drawings were a big help in framing the stern area and the bow area. I used poplar for the frames. After planing to the proper thickness I glued two sheets of wood together with the grains running at 90 degrees to each other. The frame drawings were printed on label paper then adhered on the laminated wood sheet and cut out on my scroll saw. I am no draftsmen compared to Wayne K, Druxey, and so many others here. I downloaded the plans from the L.O.C. in TIFF so was able to insert them into my Turbo Cad drawing with very high resolution. I then used the body plan to make the frame drawings, including the frames between the stations. It was just a matter of dividing the space between the body plan lines at 5 or 6 points along the curve then using arcs to draw the frames. Not necessarily the way they did them in real practice, but it worked out well with minimal fairing needed.
The keel was marked for each frame location. The square assured the frames were set at 90 degrees verically in relation to the building board and 90 degrees to the keel horizontally. Spacers were used between each frame to maintain spacing and to give some rigidity.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from Canute in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
Thanks Patrick, fire away with any questions.
Scale of the build is 1/4" to the foot. I inserted the L.O.C. drawings in TIFF format into Turbo Cad as they had the best resolution. It was then easy to take the drawings up to full size with the CAD program using the scale on the drawings and then scale down to 1/48.
More photos from earlier on in the build follow. The first is framed with keelson and deck clamps in place. The second shows the hull planking partially sanded with a "window" to show the framing. Planking is poplar. The color of poplar can vary but as it was later painted, it was of no concern. Some Plastic Wood filler was used before final sanding and painting, mainly at where the planks were not a perfect fit at the rabbet. With painting, I did not feel the need to be quite as careful as I would normally be when I am not painting the hull.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from Rustyj in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
The frames are doubles and the framing plan is quite detailed on where they lie on the keel. The isometric drawings were a big help in framing the stern area and the bow area. I used poplar for the frames. After planing to the proper thickness I glued two sheets of wood together with the grains running at 90 degrees to each other. The frame drawings were printed on label paper then adhered on the laminated wood sheet and cut out on my scroll saw. I am no draftsmen compared to Wayne K, Druxey, and so many others here. I downloaded the plans from the L.O.C. in TIFF so was able to insert them into my Turbo Cad drawing with very high resolution. I then used the body plan to make the frame drawings, including the frames between the stations. It was just a matter of dividing the space between the body plan lines at 5 or 6 points along the curve then using arcs to draw the frames. Not necessarily the way they did them in real practice, but it worked out well with minimal fairing needed.
The keel was marked for each frame location. The square assured the frames were set at 90 degrees verically in relation to the building board and 90 degrees to the keel horizontally. Spacers were used between each frame to maintain spacing and to give some rigidity.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from EdT in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
I wanted to build a schooner fully framed and found as detailed a set of plans as possible for a Gloucester schooner on the US Library of Congress website. I started building the Effie M. Morrissey (renamed in 1948 the Ernestina) about 3 years ago and have been back and forth on her as a couple other projects intervened.
The building sequence is nothing unusual, starting with the keel, stem, and stern post, which are made of Costello Boxwood. Note the angled piece under the keel. This was temporarily glued to the bottom of the keel so it would stand at the proper angle during the framing process. The frames were hung at ninety degrees to the building board, not the keel. This was shown clearly on the drawings although hard to see in the photos.
Next up, framing.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from EdT in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
Thanks Patrick, fire away with any questions.
Scale of the build is 1/4" to the foot. I inserted the L.O.C. drawings in TIFF format into Turbo Cad as they had the best resolution. It was then easy to take the drawings up to full size with the CAD program using the scale on the drawings and then scale down to 1/48.
More photos from earlier on in the build follow. The first is framed with keelson and deck clamps in place. The second shows the hull planking partially sanded with a "window" to show the framing. Planking is poplar. The color of poplar can vary but as it was later painted, it was of no concern. Some Plastic Wood filler was used before final sanding and painting, mainly at where the planks were not a perfect fit at the rabbet. With painting, I did not feel the need to be quite as careful as I would normally be when I am not painting the hull.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from GConiglio in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
Thanks Patrick, fire away with any questions.
Scale of the build is 1/4" to the foot. I inserted the L.O.C. drawings in TIFF format into Turbo Cad as they had the best resolution. It was then easy to take the drawings up to full size with the CAD program using the scale on the drawings and then scale down to 1/48.
More photos from earlier on in the build follow. The first is framed with keelson and deck clamps in place. The second shows the hull planking partially sanded with a "window" to show the framing. Planking is poplar. The color of poplar can vary but as it was later painted, it was of no concern. Some Plastic Wood filler was used before final sanding and painting, mainly at where the planks were not a perfect fit at the rabbet. With painting, I did not feel the need to be quite as careful as I would normally be when I am not painting the hull.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from Canute in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Chuck,
If you are going to fully rig those guns, I know a place to get really fine small blocks. Beautiful workmanship throughout!
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from hexnut in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
Thanks Patrick, fire away with any questions.
Scale of the build is 1/4" to the foot. I inserted the L.O.C. drawings in TIFF format into Turbo Cad as they had the best resolution. It was then easy to take the drawings up to full size with the CAD program using the scale on the drawings and then scale down to 1/48.
More photos from earlier on in the build follow. The first is framed with keelson and deck clamps in place. The second shows the hull planking partially sanded with a "window" to show the framing. Planking is poplar. The color of poplar can vary but as it was later painted, it was of no concern. Some Plastic Wood filler was used before final sanding and painting, mainly at where the planks were not a perfect fit at the rabbet. With painting, I did not feel the need to be quite as careful as I would normally be when I am not painting the hull.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from tadheus in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
The frames are doubles and the framing plan is quite detailed on where they lie on the keel. The isometric drawings were a big help in framing the stern area and the bow area. I used poplar for the frames. After planing to the proper thickness I glued two sheets of wood together with the grains running at 90 degrees to each other. The frame drawings were printed on label paper then adhered on the laminated wood sheet and cut out on my scroll saw. I am no draftsmen compared to Wayne K, Druxey, and so many others here. I downloaded the plans from the L.O.C. in TIFF so was able to insert them into my Turbo Cad drawing with very high resolution. I then used the body plan to make the frame drawings, including the frames between the stations. It was just a matter of dividing the space between the body plan lines at 5 or 6 points along the curve then using arcs to draw the frames. Not necessarily the way they did them in real practice, but it worked out well with minimal fairing needed.
The keel was marked for each frame location. The square assured the frames were set at 90 degrees verically in relation to the building board and 90 degrees to the keel horizontally. Spacers were used between each frame to maintain spacing and to give some rigidity.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from GConiglio in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
I wanted to build a schooner fully framed and found as detailed a set of plans as possible for a Gloucester schooner on the US Library of Congress website. I started building the Effie M. Morrissey (renamed in 1948 the Ernestina) about 3 years ago and have been back and forth on her as a couple other projects intervened.
The building sequence is nothing unusual, starting with the keel, stem, and stern post, which are made of Costello Boxwood. Note the angled piece under the keel. This was temporarily glued to the bottom of the keel so it would stand at the proper angle during the framing process. The frames were hung at ninety degrees to the building board, not the keel. This was shown clearly on the drawings although hard to see in the photos.
Next up, framing.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Chuck,
If you are going to fully rig those guns, I know a place to get really fine small blocks. Beautiful workmanship throughout!
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from Rustyj in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
Thanks Patrick, fire away with any questions.
Scale of the build is 1/4" to the foot. I inserted the L.O.C. drawings in TIFF format into Turbo Cad as they had the best resolution. It was then easy to take the drawings up to full size with the CAD program using the scale on the drawings and then scale down to 1/48.
More photos from earlier on in the build follow. The first is framed with keelson and deck clamps in place. The second shows the hull planking partially sanded with a "window" to show the framing. Planking is poplar. The color of poplar can vary but as it was later painted, it was of no concern. Some Plastic Wood filler was used before final sanding and painting, mainly at where the planks were not a perfect fit at the rabbet. With painting, I did not feel the need to be quite as careful as I would normally be when I am not painting the hull.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from druxey in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
Thanks Patrick, fire away with any questions.
Scale of the build is 1/4" to the foot. I inserted the L.O.C. drawings in TIFF format into Turbo Cad as they had the best resolution. It was then easy to take the drawings up to full size with the CAD program using the scale on the drawings and then scale down to 1/48.
More photos from earlier on in the build follow. The first is framed with keelson and deck clamps in place. The second shows the hull planking partially sanded with a "window" to show the framing. Planking is poplar. The color of poplar can vary but as it was later painted, it was of no concern. Some Plastic Wood filler was used before final sanding and painting, mainly at where the planks were not a perfect fit at the rabbet. With painting, I did not feel the need to be quite as careful as I would normally be when I am not painting the hull.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from druxey in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
The frames are doubles and the framing plan is quite detailed on where they lie on the keel. The isometric drawings were a big help in framing the stern area and the bow area. I used poplar for the frames. After planing to the proper thickness I glued two sheets of wood together with the grains running at 90 degrees to each other. The frame drawings were printed on label paper then adhered on the laminated wood sheet and cut out on my scroll saw. I am no draftsmen compared to Wayne K, Druxey, and so many others here. I downloaded the plans from the L.O.C. in TIFF so was able to insert them into my Turbo Cad drawing with very high resolution. I then used the body plan to make the frame drawings, including the frames between the stations. It was just a matter of dividing the space between the body plan lines at 5 or 6 points along the curve then using arcs to draw the frames. Not necessarily the way they did them in real practice, but it worked out well with minimal fairing needed.
The keel was marked for each frame location. The square assured the frames were set at 90 degrees verically in relation to the building board and 90 degrees to the keel horizontally. Spacers were used between each frame to maintain spacing and to give some rigidity.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from hexnut in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
I wanted to build a schooner fully framed and found as detailed a set of plans as possible for a Gloucester schooner on the US Library of Congress website. I started building the Effie M. Morrissey (renamed in 1948 the Ernestina) about 3 years ago and have been back and forth on her as a couple other projects intervened.
The building sequence is nothing unusual, starting with the keel, stem, and stern post, which are made of Costello Boxwood. Note the angled piece under the keel. This was temporarily glued to the bottom of the keel so it would stand at the proper angle during the framing process. The frames were hung at ninety degrees to the building board, not the keel. This was shown clearly on the drawings although hard to see in the photos.
Next up, framing.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from aykutansin in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
Thanks Patrick, fire away with any questions.
Scale of the build is 1/4" to the foot. I inserted the L.O.C. drawings in TIFF format into Turbo Cad as they had the best resolution. It was then easy to take the drawings up to full size with the CAD program using the scale on the drawings and then scale down to 1/48.
More photos from earlier on in the build follow. The first is framed with keelson and deck clamps in place. The second shows the hull planking partially sanded with a "window" to show the framing. Planking is poplar. The color of poplar can vary but as it was later painted, it was of no concern. Some Plastic Wood filler was used before final sanding and painting, mainly at where the planks were not a perfect fit at the rabbet. With painting, I did not feel the need to be quite as careful as I would normally be when I am not painting the hull.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from GLakie in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Chuck,
If you are going to fully rig those guns, I know a place to get really fine small blocks. Beautiful workmanship throughout!
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from druxey in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
I wanted to build a schooner fully framed and found as detailed a set of plans as possible for a Gloucester schooner on the US Library of Congress website. I started building the Effie M. Morrissey (renamed in 1948 the Ernestina) about 3 years ago and have been back and forth on her as a couple other projects intervened.
The building sequence is nothing unusual, starting with the keel, stem, and stern post, which are made of Costello Boxwood. Note the angled piece under the keel. This was temporarily glued to the bottom of the keel so it would stand at the proper angle during the framing process. The frames were hung at ninety degrees to the building board, not the keel. This was shown clearly on the drawings although hard to see in the photos.
Next up, framing.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from Tadeusz43 in Effie M Morrissey by allanyed
Thanks Patrick, fire away with any questions.
Scale of the build is 1/4" to the foot. I inserted the L.O.C. drawings in TIFF format into Turbo Cad as they had the best resolution. It was then easy to take the drawings up to full size with the CAD program using the scale on the drawings and then scale down to 1/48.
More photos from earlier on in the build follow. The first is framed with keelson and deck clamps in place. The second shows the hull planking partially sanded with a "window" to show the framing. Planking is poplar. The color of poplar can vary but as it was later painted, it was of no concern. Some Plastic Wood filler was used before final sanding and painting, mainly at where the planks were not a perfect fit at the rabbet. With painting, I did not feel the need to be quite as careful as I would normally be when I am not painting the hull.
Allan
-
allanyed got a reaction from Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Chuck,
If you are going to fully rig those guns, I know a place to get really fine small blocks. Beautiful workmanship throughout!
Allan
Our Emblem ®
