Jaager

Bill,
 
I really should not be getting involved, because I do not have one. But I will list what I think I know about them.
 
They are not inexpensive.
They require ventilation of heat generated gasses when cutting.
They are controlled by a vector based drawing program - most of these are a bit costly.
The program takes time to master and each job is hands on.
There is a thickness of stock limit.
 
On a wooden sailing vessel - almost every part is one off - so there is not much copy/paste involved with the vectors for each part.
The computer work and time required does not translate into much if any advantage over scroll cutting a pattern fixed to the wood stock.  A laser does allow closer packing and less loss to waste, but the waste is marginal in the over all cost.
 
If multiple copies of a single vessel is the goal - if a home business is the purpose - this machine almost manditory.
For a modeler building one copy of a vessel, a laser cutter is almost impossible to justify buying - unless the process involved with the computer instructions and the machine operation is what is the attraction.

Bill,
 
I really should not be getting involved, because I do not have one. But I will list what I think I know about them.
 
They are not inexpensive.
They require ventilation of heat generated gasses when cutting.
They are controlled by a vector based drawing program - most of these are a bit costly.
The program takes time to master and each job is hands on.
There is a thickness of stock limit.
 
On a wooden sailing vessel - almost every part is one off - so there is not much copy/paste involved with the vectors for each part.
The computer work and time required does not translate into much if any advantage over scroll cutting a pattern fixed to the wood stock.  A laser does allow closer packing and less loss to waste, but the waste is marginal in the over all cost.
 
If multiple copies of a single vessel is the goal - if a home business is the purpose - this machine almost manditory.
For a modeler building one copy of a vessel, a laser cutter is almost impossible to justify buying - unless the process involved with the computer instructions and the machine operation is what is the attraction.

Bill,
 
I really should not be getting involved, because I do not have one. But I will list what I think I know about them.
 
They are not inexpensive.
They require ventilation of heat generated gasses when cutting.
They are controlled by a vector based drawing program - most of these are a bit costly.
The program takes time to master and each job is hands on.
There is a thickness of stock limit.
 
On a wooden sailing vessel - almost every part is one off - so there is not much copy/paste involved with the vectors for each part.
The computer work and time required does not translate into much if any advantage over scroll cutting a pattern fixed to the wood stock.  A laser does allow closer packing and less loss to waste, but the waste is marginal in the over all cost.
 
If multiple copies of a single vessel is the goal - if a home business is the purpose - this machine almost manditory.
For a modeler building one copy of a vessel, a laser cutter is almost impossible to justify buying - unless the process involved with the computer instructions and the machine operation is what is the attraction.

Bill,
 
I really should not be getting involved, because I do not have one. But I will list what I think I know about them.
 
They are not inexpensive.
They require ventilation of heat generated gasses when cutting.
They are controlled by a vector based drawing program - most of these are a bit costly.
The program takes time to master and each job is hands on.
There is a thickness of stock limit.
 
On a wooden sailing vessel - almost every part is one off - so there is not much copy/paste involved with the vectors for each part.
The computer work and time required does not translate into much if any advantage over scroll cutting a pattern fixed to the wood stock.  A laser does allow closer packing and less loss to waste, but the waste is marginal in the over all cost.
 
If multiple copies of a single vessel is the goal - if a home business is the purpose - this machine almost manditory.
For a modeler building one copy of a vessel, a laser cutter is almost impossible to justify buying - unless the process involved with the computer instructions and the machine operation is what is the attraction.

Bill,
 
I really should not be getting involved, because I do not have one. But I will list what I think I know about them.
 
They are not inexpensive.
They require ventilation of heat generated gasses when cutting.
They are controlled by a vector based drawing program - most of these are a bit costly.
The program takes time to master and each job is hands on.
There is a thickness of stock limit.
 
On a wooden sailing vessel - almost every part is one off - so there is not much copy/paste involved with the vectors for each part.
The computer work and time required does not translate into much if any advantage over scroll cutting a pattern fixed to the wood stock.  A laser does allow closer packing and less loss to waste, but the waste is marginal in the over all cost.
 
If multiple copies of a single vessel is the goal - if a home business is the purpose - this machine almost manditory.
For a modeler building one copy of a vessel, a laser cutter is almost impossible to justify buying - unless the process involved with the computer instructions and the machine operation is what is the attraction.

Bill,
 
I really should not be getting involved, because I do not have one. But I will list what I think I know about them.
 
They are not inexpensive.
They require ventilation of heat generated gasses when cutting.
They are controlled by a vector based drawing program - most of these are a bit costly.
The program takes time to master and each job is hands on.
There is a thickness of stock limit.
 
On a wooden sailing vessel - almost every part is one off - so there is not much copy/paste involved with the vectors for each part.
The computer work and time required does not translate into much if any advantage over scroll cutting a pattern fixed to the wood stock.  A laser does allow closer packing and less loss to waste, but the waste is marginal in the over all cost.
 
If multiple copies of a single vessel is the goal - if a home business is the purpose - this machine almost manditory.
For a modeler building one copy of a vessel, a laser cutter is almost impossible to justify buying - unless the process involved with the computer instructions and the machine operation is what is the attraction.

Bill,
 
I really should not be getting involved, because I do not have one. But I will list what I think I know about them.
 
They are not inexpensive.
They require ventilation of heat generated gasses when cutting.
They are controlled by a vector based drawing program - most of these are a bit costly.
The program takes time to master and each job is hands on.
There is a thickness of stock limit.
 
On a wooden sailing vessel - almost every part is one off - so there is not much copy/paste involved with the vectors for each part.
The computer work and time required does not translate into much if any advantage over scroll cutting a pattern fixed to the wood stock.  A laser does allow closer packing and less loss to waste, but the waste is marginal in the over all cost.
 
If multiple copies of a single vessel is the goal - if a home business is the purpose - this machine almost manditory.
For a modeler building one copy of a vessel, a laser cutter is almost impossible to justify buying - unless the process involved with the computer instructions and the machine operation is what is the attraction.

HomeDepot sells craft size sheets of 1" thick Styrofoam.  Cut one into brick size rectangles. you define the brick.  Glue two layers together using PVA and glue that on to a 1/2" economy quality plywood base.    Punch holes in the top layer to hold tools.  A 2" thick  stack will hold about any model size hand tool in a vertical position. The tools can be as close or far apart as suits.  With two or more, tools can be grouped by what is needed for a general task.   The foam will not dull a knife blade and blade down saves getting inadvertent holes in your hand.  A single smaller block with a white adhesive backed paper layer on top is a way to hold drill bits and the ID can be written on the paper.

A place to check for al sorts of electronic parts, wires and connectors:
Marlin P. Jones & Assoc.   www.mpia.com
The selectable output bench supply DC 3-12V 200mA  works well with small DC motors used to power small drill bits inside tight spaces  -as an example of something with application here.

I have a similar problem with La Commerce de Marseille.  I fill the spaces and use double sided tape to keep the filling wood in place until I am ready  to punch them out.  Two layers of tape = 0.006".  I used a poor method to compensate for the addition of the tape thickness vs the thickness of the glue layer. The ship at 1:60 is a monster - about 3.5 feet between perpendiculars.  I estimate that the tape is ~0.5" over the distance. The tape part is below the wale.  I made a major error and assembled the hull "0" to FP (Col- whatever that means) and "0" to AP as two units to be joined at "0" as the last step.  I do not have the keel mounted - it goes after -just like with a carved hull. But when joined, flat to the keel, the top timbers at "0" are 0.25" apart.  not much over 3.5' but a pain to fix. about all of the gap is above the wale, so it will be hidden under planking.  The big take home lesson that I learned:  work from the deadflat and add to each end until the bow and stern are reached.  It is easier to fix the open ends than the middle.
In my case, the length of the keel will be whatever is required.
 
If you start from the middle and add frames on either side, if you use a precise space thickness temp wood spacers, dry fit if you are not sure - the temp gap pieces can be made thinner if you overshoot or shim with paper if you undershoot.  Glue thickness is not an issue with free standing - frames or bends.  It is a factor with Navy Board framing or framing with chocks between the frames (if you use the chocks as you go instead of after) or if you have continuous deadwood and the top timbers are a solid wall.

A place to check for al sorts of electronic parts, wires and connectors:
Marlin P. Jones & Assoc.   www.mpia.com
The selectable output bench supply DC 3-12V 200mA  works well with small DC motors used to power small drill bits inside tight spaces  -as an example of something with application here.

Quick and dirty = if the keel is made up of scraphed sections, or you wish to make it be that way, take 1/16" out of the keel length in the middle where it does not taper.  This makes the hull - what?  3 inches shorter out of 120 feet or more?

Quick and dirty = if the keel is made up of scraphed sections, or you wish to make it be that way, take 1/16" out of the keel length in the middle where it does not taper.  This makes the hull - what?  3 inches shorter out of 120 feet or more?

This price is a good deal. (Sorry to butt in, Michael  ...) This beautiful ship had a great history:
 
"Short history of her: Built in 1756 at Le Havre and designed by Jean-Joseph Ginoux.She took part in the Battle of Quiberon Bay and was eventually captured by the British in January 1761 by the HMS Unicorn.
 
She was recommisioned as part of the Royal Navy in July 1761 with the name HMS Flora and was paid off in 1762 or 1763.
 
Recommissioned in 1771 for Channel service.  Sailed for Kronstadt on 2 June 1772, to deliver the new ambassador. Captain John Brisbane recommissioned her in December 1775. He then sailed Flora for North America on 29 April 1776. On 8 July 1777, Flora recaptured the Fox, which the Americans had captured a month earlier. On 30 May 1778 she sailed to support an attack at Fall River Massachusetts. On 30 July 1778 she was trapped among with other British ship in Narrngansett Bay.The captain ordered the naval vessels to land their guns, men, and stores for the benefit of the garrison at Newport. Flora was in the inner harbour and on 5 August Brisbane scuttled her in shallow water
 
After the Americans recaptured Newport, they some time later refloated and repaired her. They sailed her to Bordeaux where the French Navy bought her in September 1784; she was known as Flore américaine, to distinguish her from Flore, built since. The French Navy refitted her in between January and May 1786. Then in 1787 Flore americaine was renamed Flore. The next year the Navy re-rated her as a corvette, and rearmed her with 8-pounder guns. The Navy struck her from the lists and hulked her at Rochefort in May 1789, disarming her some two years later, and then selling her on 4 July 1792. Her new, private owners, renamed her Citoyenne Française in April 1793. They commissioned her as a privateer out of Bordeaux in May. The French Navy requisitioned her in August, but then returned her to her former owners in December 1795. Her owners again deployed her as a privateer.
 
On 8 September 1798 she was captured by  HMS Phaeton and HMS Anson. When captured she was described as a frigate of 36 guns and 255 men. Flore was then sold for breaking up."

A place to check for al sorts of electronic parts, wires and connectors:
Marlin P. Jones & Assoc.   www.mpia.com
The selectable output bench supply DC 3-12V 200mA  works well with small DC motors used to power small drill bits inside tight spaces  -as an example of something with application here.

A place to check for al sorts of electronic parts, wires and connectors:
Marlin P. Jones & Assoc.   www.mpia.com
The selectable output bench supply DC 3-12V 200mA  works well with small DC motors used to power small drill bits inside tight spaces  -as an example of something with application here.

HomeDepot sells craft size sheets of 1" thick Styrofoam.  Cut one into brick size rectangles. you define the brick.  Glue two layers together using PVA and glue that on to a 1/2" economy quality plywood base.    Punch holes in the top layer to hold tools.  A 2" thick  stack will hold about any model size hand tool in a vertical position. The tools can be as close or far apart as suits.  With two or more, tools can be grouped by what is needed for a general task.   The foam will not dull a knife blade and blade down saves getting inadvertent holes in your hand.  A single smaller block with a white adhesive backed paper layer on top is a way to hold drill bits and the ID can be written on the paper.

HomeDepot sells craft size sheets of 1" thick Styrofoam.  Cut one into brick size rectangles. you define the brick.  Glue two layers together using PVA and glue that on to a 1/2" economy quality plywood base.    Punch holes in the top layer to hold tools.  A 2" thick  stack will hold about any model size hand tool in a vertical position. The tools can be as close or far apart as suits.  With two or more, tools can be grouped by what is needed for a general task.   The foam will not dull a knife blade and blade down saves getting inadvertent holes in your hand.  A single smaller block with a white adhesive backed paper layer on top is a way to hold drill bits and the ID can be written on the paper.

HomeDepot sells craft size sheets of 1" thick Styrofoam.  Cut one into brick size rectangles. you define the brick.  Glue two layers together using PVA and glue that on to a 1/2" economy quality plywood base.    Punch holes in the top layer to hold tools.  A 2" thick  stack will hold about any model size hand tool in a vertical position. The tools can be as close or far apart as suits.  With two or more, tools can be grouped by what is needed for a general task.   The foam will not dull a knife blade and blade down saves getting inadvertent holes in your hand.  A single smaller block with a white adhesive backed paper layer on top is a way to hold drill bits and the ID can be written on the paper.

HomeDepot sells craft size sheets of 1" thick Styrofoam.  Cut one into brick size rectangles. you define the brick.  Glue two layers together using PVA and glue that on to a 1/2" economy quality plywood base.    Punch holes in the top layer to hold tools.  A 2" thick  stack will hold about any model size hand tool in a vertical position. The tools can be as close or far apart as suits.  With two or more, tools can be grouped by what is needed for a general task.   The foam will not dull a knife blade and blade down saves getting inadvertent holes in your hand.  A single smaller block with a white adhesive backed paper layer on top is a way to hold drill bits and the ID can be written on the paper.

HomeDepot sells craft size sheets of 1" thick Styrofoam.  Cut one into brick size rectangles. you define the brick.  Glue two layers together using PVA and glue that on to a 1/2" economy quality plywood base.    Punch holes in the top layer to hold tools.  A 2" thick  stack will hold about any model size hand tool in a vertical position. The tools can be as close or far apart as suits.  With two or more, tools can be grouped by what is needed for a general task.   The foam will not dull a knife blade and blade down saves getting inadvertent holes in your hand.  A single smaller block with a white adhesive backed paper layer on top is a way to hold drill bits and the ID can be written on the paper.

I was describing some of the English 18th century versions of cants that I have seen.  The "no butts" part was about a model shortcut, as I was flashing on how to do the timbers.  It was not about actual practice -sorry for the misinformation.
Not many of the Navy Board framed models from the later 17th century seem to have replicated cant frames -I take my inspiration from them, so I do not model cant frames.  Flying a black flag here, I will admit that I have little interest in modeling any structural part not visible from a completely planked and completely decked hull.  The below the wale open framing is an obsession of mine, but I do that with an eye towards Art, rather than literal replication.  My money is on the actual internal structure of most ships being a lot irregular and not all that pleasant to look at.  The regularity and neatness of the plans was probably more of a wish.  There was probably a focus on economy and practicality and making do with the stock on hand.
Building demonstration models for shipbuilding  classes of teenage midshipmen I will leave to others.

Buxus is yellow and the there is not much difference in Spring and Summer wood and the  rings are narrow and close together - slow growing - very hard.  A look on line will display a variety of cultivars - tall and slender to low growing and wide spreading - with a range in between.  It is probable that there will be minor differences the nature of the wood.
 
Holly - I have wood from a cultivar with a yellowish color.  The wood is almost grain free in appearance - white or yellow - it bends easily.  If snow white in color is not of interest (and no wood ever used to plank a deck was close to being as white as Holly), even the Blue mold infected pieces will work for most everything.  It is said that it takes up dye well enough to be an excellent substitute for Ebony.  If there is a local company that harvests Holly, they may give you their infected wood for free.  Their customers want the white color only. They do not care that the wood is still just as sound.
 
You should check the Pisgah region for Dogwood.  Cornus florida is also about as hard as Boxwood.  It does not have a trunk large enough to supply practical framing  or planking stock for a model above miniature scales, but for carving and deck furniture, yards and other small delicate components, it is worth the effort to harvest it.

Buxus is yellow and the there is not much difference in Spring and Summer wood and the  rings are narrow and close together - slow growing - very hard.  A look on line will display a variety of cultivars - tall and slender to low growing and wide spreading - with a range in between.  It is probable that there will be minor differences the nature of the wood.
 
Holly - I have wood from a cultivar with a yellowish color.  The wood is almost grain free in appearance - white or yellow - it bends easily.  If snow white in color is not of interest (and no wood ever used to plank a deck was close to being as white as Holly), even the Blue mold infected pieces will work for most everything.  It is said that it takes up dye well enough to be an excellent substitute for Ebony.  If there is a local company that harvests Holly, they may give you their infected wood for free.  Their customers want the white color only. They do not care that the wood is still just as sound.
 
You should check the Pisgah region for Dogwood.  Cornus florida is also about as hard as Boxwood.  It does not have a trunk large enough to supply practical framing  or planking stock for a model above miniature scales, but for carving and deck furniture, yards and other small delicate components, it is worth the effort to harvest it.

The situation is that there are two schools of thought on this subject here.
 
School Tradition: 
Use the proper species of wood to begin with.  That is wood with pores that are too small to present a visual problem.
Primer is an inexpensive material with a function to reduce the number of coats of paint or clear coat by one.
Half concentration shellac is a primer that is compatible with any type of clear coat or paint.
Full strength shellac is an excellent clear coat - as long as it is not exposed to water - like a sweating cocktail glass.
Shellac with a bit of linseed  or tung oil is French polish.
Shellac has two primary flavors: garnet and near water clear.  It comes either premixed (Zinsser) or as dry flakes. Alcohol is the solvent (usually ethanol).
The wood can be colored using a aniline penetrating dye - if grain still visible is desired.  Alcohol base is less deep, but does not raise the grain.  Water base is deep, but requires pretreatment with water followed by abrasion to fix the raised grain.
Stain is a sort of paint meant for poor quality wood.
Paint -
raw pigment can be mixed with a binder ( for example: polymerized linseed or tung oil) for a really traditional material.
Commercial  - finely ground pigment is important - usually marketed as model paint.  More important than brand is that the finish be either flat, or matt - but never gloss or high gloss.
 
School Tradition also holds that CA is to be avoided.  PVA for wood to wood and two part epoxy for metal to wood. 
 
School Tradition is also a minor segment - usually inhabiting the scratch build wing.