Jaager

Tony,
 
If you have the money to burn and any sort of economy in a budget is not a goal, go for a serious precision mill.  Understand, that the necessary tooling will probably be be equal to the price of the mill if not more.   There will be few jobs for it where something less expensive will not be sufficient and it will mostly be a tool looking for a task.  Think of it as primarily a tool for those doing scratch POF with a focus on replicating the usually hidden internal support structure.  The real value for a mill as well as for a precision lathe is fabricating your own tools from metal raw material. 
 
As for another question it would probably save you some frustration and futility if you forgo any attempt at trying to use the Dremel as anything but a hand held rotary tool.  Unless you are doing a lot of trunneling, you are probably seeing it as a paper weight with POB kits.  Unless the expenditure is on drill bits or cutting tools, money spent on accessories to turn it into another sort of tool will probably be money that is wasted.
 
To repeat something glib,  a serious mill and especially a precision lathe fit well under a version of the Yacht Rule: 
If you have to ask if you need one, then it is probably something that you do not need - yet.
 
 

Tony,
 
If you have the money to burn and any sort of economy in a budget is not a goal, go for a serious precision mill.  Understand, that the necessary tooling will probably be be equal to the price of the mill if not more.   There will be few jobs for it where something less expensive will not be sufficient and it will mostly be a tool looking for a task.  Think of it as primarily a tool for those doing scratch POF with a focus on replicating the usually hidden internal support structure.  The real value for a mill as well as for a precision lathe is fabricating your own tools from metal raw material. 
 
As for another question it would probably save you some frustration and futility if you forgo any attempt at trying to use the Dremel as anything but a hand held rotary tool.  Unless you are doing a lot of trunneling, you are probably seeing it as a paper weight with POB kits.  Unless the expenditure is on drill bits or cutting tools, money spent on accessories to turn it into another sort of tool will probably be money that is wasted.
 
To repeat something glib,  a serious mill and especially a precision lathe fit well under a version of the Yacht Rule: 
If you have to ask if you need one, then it is probably something that you do not need - yet.
 
 

Tony,
 
If you have the money to burn and any sort of economy in a budget is not a goal, go for a serious precision mill.  Understand, that the necessary tooling will probably be be equal to the price of the mill if not more.   There will be few jobs for it where something less expensive will not be sufficient and it will mostly be a tool looking for a task.  Think of it as primarily a tool for those doing scratch POF with a focus on replicating the usually hidden internal support structure.  The real value for a mill as well as for a precision lathe is fabricating your own tools from metal raw material. 
 
As for another question it would probably save you some frustration and futility if you forgo any attempt at trying to use the Dremel as anything but a hand held rotary tool.  Unless you are doing a lot of trunneling, you are probably seeing it as a paper weight with POB kits.  Unless the expenditure is on drill bits or cutting tools, money spent on accessories to turn it into another sort of tool will probably be money that is wasted.
 
To repeat something glib,  a serious mill and especially a precision lathe fit well under a version of the Yacht Rule: 
If you have to ask if you need one, then it is probably something that you do not need - yet.
 
 

Tony,
 
If you have the money to burn and any sort of economy in a budget is not a goal, go for a serious precision mill.  Understand, that the necessary tooling will probably be be equal to the price of the mill if not more.   There will be few jobs for it where something less expensive will not be sufficient and it will mostly be a tool looking for a task.  Think of it as primarily a tool for those doing scratch POF with a focus on replicating the usually hidden internal support structure.  The real value for a mill as well as for a precision lathe is fabricating your own tools from metal raw material. 
 
As for another question it would probably save you some frustration and futility if you forgo any attempt at trying to use the Dremel as anything but a hand held rotary tool.  Unless you are doing a lot of trunneling, you are probably seeing it as a paper weight with POB kits.  Unless the expenditure is on drill bits or cutting tools, money spent on accessories to turn it into another sort of tool will probably be money that is wasted.
 
To repeat something glib,  a serious mill and especially a precision lathe fit well under a version of the Yacht Rule: 
If you have to ask if you need one, then it is probably something that you do not need - yet.
 
 

If HIC was replicating an existing historical plan, he used the direction on the original plan,
I am guessing that when he  was starting with a half model or table of offsets he used his own preferred orientation - probably bow at the right side edge.

If HIC was replicating an existing historical plan, he used the direction on the original plan,
I am guessing that when he  was starting with a half model or table of offsets he used his own preferred orientation - probably bow at the right side edge.

If HIC was replicating an existing historical plan, he used the direction on the original plan,
I am guessing that when he  was starting with a half model or table of offsets he used his own preferred orientation - probably bow at the right side edge.

If HIC was replicating an existing historical plan, he used the direction on the original plan,
I am guessing that when he  was starting with a half model or table of offsets he used his own preferred orientation - probably bow at the right side edge.

Plans are left for us from the era of wood and sail with the bow on the left and on the right.  There is no rule.  (It may be something as simple as the dominant hand of the designer.)   In museums, a predominance of left side on display or right side on display probably reflects the bias of the curator.  If your model is scratch built POF and one side is left frames showing and the other is the completed ship, it would depend on which view you wish to show off at the moment.

It would serve your purposes to explore the various framing plans on the NMM site.  It is my premise that the English were singularly unique in their obsession with having a whole Top timber be the sides that frame the gun ports.  There are examples of frames undergoing rather convoluted jogging to determine this result. Below the main wale it is still pretty much regular.  But above the waterline, where it does not really matter, some rather curious things were done. 
In France, North America and the Low Countries it appears that the Tops were made thicker, and or supplemented and notches were cut into the tops as needed.

Plans are left for us from the era of wood and sail with the bow on the left and on the right.  There is no rule.  (It may be something as simple as the dominant hand of the designer.)   In museums, a predominance of left side on display or right side on display probably reflects the bias of the curator.  If your model is scratch built POF and one side is left frames showing and the other is the completed ship, it would depend on which view you wish to show off at the moment.

Plans are left for us from the era of wood and sail with the bow on the left and on the right.  There is no rule.  (It may be something as simple as the dominant hand of the designer.)   In museums, a predominance of left side on display or right side on display probably reflects the bias of the curator.  If your model is scratch built POF and one side is left frames showing and the other is the completed ship, it would depend on which view you wish to show off at the moment.

Salty,
 
You are a bit too salty with your last two sentences.  That company is the most forbidden of all of the forbidden pirate kit companies.
High quality wood and components can never compensate for blatant theft of original plans and instructions.  The site rules are in the bottom forum.  
 
Popularity is not a thing here.  Scratch building is where real bones are made. 
Umm...  you sold a completed model of a kit that cost ~ $600 for $1000?    Working for the new minimum wage, if it took you more than 26 hrs,  you lost big time.

Bill,
 
I really should not be getting involved, because I do not have one. But I will list what I think I know about them.
 
They are not inexpensive.
They require ventilation of heat generated gasses when cutting.
They are controlled by a vector based drawing program - most of these are a bit costly.
The program takes time to master and each job is hands on.
There is a thickness of stock limit.
 
On a wooden sailing vessel - almost every part is one off - so there is not much copy/paste involved with the vectors for each part.
The computer work and time required does not translate into much if any advantage over scroll cutting a pattern fixed to the wood stock.  A laser does allow closer packing and less loss to waste, but the waste is marginal in the over all cost.
 
If multiple copies of a single vessel is the goal - if a home business is the purpose - this machine almost manditory.
For a modeler building one copy of a vessel, a laser cutter is almost impossible to justify buying - unless the process involved with the computer instructions and the machine operation is what is the attraction.

Bill,
 
I really should not be getting involved, because I do not have one. But I will list what I think I know about them.
 
They are not inexpensive.
They require ventilation of heat generated gasses when cutting.
They are controlled by a vector based drawing program - most of these are a bit costly.
The program takes time to master and each job is hands on.
There is a thickness of stock limit.
 
On a wooden sailing vessel - almost every part is one off - so there is not much copy/paste involved with the vectors for each part.
The computer work and time required does not translate into much if any advantage over scroll cutting a pattern fixed to the wood stock.  A laser does allow closer packing and less loss to waste, but the waste is marginal in the over all cost.
 
If multiple copies of a single vessel is the goal - if a home business is the purpose - this machine almost manditory.
For a modeler building one copy of a vessel, a laser cutter is almost impossible to justify buying - unless the process involved with the computer instructions and the machine operation is what is the attraction.

Bill,
 
I really should not be getting involved, because I do not have one. But I will list what I think I know about them.
 
They are not inexpensive.
They require ventilation of heat generated gasses when cutting.
They are controlled by a vector based drawing program - most of these are a bit costly.
The program takes time to master and each job is hands on.
There is a thickness of stock limit.
 
On a wooden sailing vessel - almost every part is one off - so there is not much copy/paste involved with the vectors for each part.
The computer work and time required does not translate into much if any advantage over scroll cutting a pattern fixed to the wood stock.  A laser does allow closer packing and less loss to waste, but the waste is marginal in the over all cost.
 
If multiple copies of a single vessel is the goal - if a home business is the purpose - this machine almost manditory.
For a modeler building one copy of a vessel, a laser cutter is almost impossible to justify buying - unless the process involved with the computer instructions and the machine operation is what is the attraction.

Bill,
 
I really should not be getting involved, because I do not have one. But I will list what I think I know about them.
 
They are not inexpensive.
They require ventilation of heat generated gasses when cutting.
They are controlled by a vector based drawing program - most of these are a bit costly.
The program takes time to master and each job is hands on.
There is a thickness of stock limit.
 
On a wooden sailing vessel - almost every part is one off - so there is not much copy/paste involved with the vectors for each part.
The computer work and time required does not translate into much if any advantage over scroll cutting a pattern fixed to the wood stock.  A laser does allow closer packing and less loss to waste, but the waste is marginal in the over all cost.
 
If multiple copies of a single vessel is the goal - if a home business is the purpose - this machine almost manditory.
For a modeler building one copy of a vessel, a laser cutter is almost impossible to justify buying - unless the process involved with the computer instructions and the machine operation is what is the attraction.

Bill,
 
I really should not be getting involved, because I do not have one. But I will list what I think I know about them.
 
They are not inexpensive.
They require ventilation of heat generated gasses when cutting.
They are controlled by a vector based drawing program - most of these are a bit costly.
The program takes time to master and each job is hands on.
There is a thickness of stock limit.
 
On a wooden sailing vessel - almost every part is one off - so there is not much copy/paste involved with the vectors for each part.
The computer work and time required does not translate into much if any advantage over scroll cutting a pattern fixed to the wood stock.  A laser does allow closer packing and less loss to waste, but the waste is marginal in the over all cost.
 
If multiple copies of a single vessel is the goal - if a home business is the purpose - this machine almost manditory.
For a modeler building one copy of a vessel, a laser cutter is almost impossible to justify buying - unless the process involved with the computer instructions and the machine operation is what is the attraction.

Bill,
 
I really should not be getting involved, because I do not have one. But I will list what I think I know about them.
 
They are not inexpensive.
They require ventilation of heat generated gasses when cutting.
They are controlled by a vector based drawing program - most of these are a bit costly.
The program takes time to master and each job is hands on.
There is a thickness of stock limit.
 
On a wooden sailing vessel - almost every part is one off - so there is not much copy/paste involved with the vectors for each part.
The computer work and time required does not translate into much if any advantage over scroll cutting a pattern fixed to the wood stock.  A laser does allow closer packing and less loss to waste, but the waste is marginal in the over all cost.
 
If multiple copies of a single vessel is the goal - if a home business is the purpose - this machine almost manditory.
For a modeler building one copy of a vessel, a laser cutter is almost impossible to justify buying - unless the process involved with the computer instructions and the machine operation is what is the attraction.

Bill,
 
I really should not be getting involved, because I do not have one. But I will list what I think I know about them.
 
They are not inexpensive.
They require ventilation of heat generated gasses when cutting.
They are controlled by a vector based drawing program - most of these are a bit costly.
The program takes time to master and each job is hands on.
There is a thickness of stock limit.
 
On a wooden sailing vessel - almost every part is one off - so there is not much copy/paste involved with the vectors for each part.
The computer work and time required does not translate into much if any advantage over scroll cutting a pattern fixed to the wood stock.  A laser does allow closer packing and less loss to waste, but the waste is marginal in the over all cost.
 
If multiple copies of a single vessel is the goal - if a home business is the purpose - this machine almost manditory.
For a modeler building one copy of a vessel, a laser cutter is almost impossible to justify buying - unless the process involved with the computer instructions and the machine operation is what is the attraction.

HomeDepot sells craft size sheets of 1" thick Styrofoam.  Cut one into brick size rectangles. you define the brick.  Glue two layers together using PVA and glue that on to a 1/2" economy quality plywood base.    Punch holes in the top layer to hold tools.  A 2" thick  stack will hold about any model size hand tool in a vertical position. The tools can be as close or far apart as suits.  With two or more, tools can be grouped by what is needed for a general task.   The foam will not dull a knife blade and blade down saves getting inadvertent holes in your hand.  A single smaller block with a white adhesive backed paper layer on top is a way to hold drill bits and the ID can be written on the paper.

A place to check for al sorts of electronic parts, wires and connectors:
Marlin P. Jones & Assoc.   www.mpia.com
The selectable output bench supply DC 3-12V 200mA  works well with small DC motors used to power small drill bits inside tight spaces  -as an example of something with application here.

I have a similar problem with La Commerce de Marseille.  I fill the spaces and use double sided tape to keep the filling wood in place until I am ready  to punch them out.  Two layers of tape = 0.006".  I used a poor method to compensate for the addition of the tape thickness vs the thickness of the glue layer. The ship at 1:60 is a monster - about 3.5 feet between perpendiculars.  I estimate that the tape is ~0.5" over the distance. The tape part is below the wale.  I made a major error and assembled the hull "0" to FP (Col- whatever that means) and "0" to AP as two units to be joined at "0" as the last step.  I do not have the keel mounted - it goes after -just like with a carved hull. But when joined, flat to the keel, the top timbers at "0" are 0.25" apart.  not much over 3.5' but a pain to fix. about all of the gap is above the wale, so it will be hidden under planking.  The big take home lesson that I learned:  work from the deadflat and add to each end until the bow and stern are reached.  It is easier to fix the open ends than the middle.
In my case, the length of the keel will be whatever is required.
 
If you start from the middle and add frames on either side, if you use a precise space thickness temp wood spacers, dry fit if you are not sure - the temp gap pieces can be made thinner if you overshoot or shim with paper if you undershoot.  Glue thickness is not an issue with free standing - frames or bends.  It is a factor with Navy Board framing or framing with chocks between the frames (if you use the chocks as you go instead of after) or if you have continuous deadwood and the top timbers are a solid wall.

A place to check for al sorts of electronic parts, wires and connectors:
Marlin P. Jones & Assoc.   www.mpia.com
The selectable output bench supply DC 3-12V 200mA  works well with small DC motors used to power small drill bits inside tight spaces  -as an example of something with application here.

Quick and dirty = if the keel is made up of scraphed sections, or you wish to make it be that way, take 1/16" out of the keel length in the middle where it does not taper.  This makes the hull - what?  3 inches shorter out of 120 feet or more?