Jaager

Suggestions:
 
Draw your grid on the white side of a piece of thick poster board.
 
Tape a piece of transparent drafting velum or a less expensive substitute:
Bienfang Designer Grid Paper, 50 Sheets, 8-1/2-Inch by 11-Inch Pad, 8 by 8 Cross Section
( $7.00 at Amazon )  The lines are straight and the grid perpendicular, but the grid is not precise.
 
The center line, keel line and base line transferred ,  but you can leave off the waterlines and buttock lines for each frame - just the frame points are needed.
 
Only plot one side of the frame. 
Scan the half frame into your computer.
Have a transparent metric ruler in the scan.
Open the scan in a drawing program - Photo Shop - ( has a rental online deal - if you are quick, you only need a 1 month rental) / Paint Shop Pro / I use Painter 12 - older versions like Painter 8 work just as well - I just needed 12 to get PNG in/out.
The program needs layers. 
Open the half frame as a layer, duplicate it, flip copy horizontally and position the baseline/ centerline and combine the two layers. You now have a precise mirror of the half frame.
 
Kate Cory would probably be framed French/American style -  paired frames with the space between +/- half the thickness of one of the pair.   I round - I am working on USS Vincennes 1825  R/S is 26"  Given the range of sided dimensions of the frames I chose to make each frame 10" and the space 6".
 
The point ?  You can use the middle frame shape layer for both outlines of the pair.
 
The metric ruler part - scan in - print out - can be altered by the computer-  Matching up the print out of the ruler with the ruler- the % change in document size needed to be done in the drawing program  to get identity in size is easier to calculate using metric an English scale.
 
Another advantage - colored lines are easier to follow when cutting out and shaping the frames.  With a paint program, it is easy to magic wand a line and change its color.
I make the dead flat centerline shape = red - next one = green, the next one = blue, the next = red....
The paint program color picker has a slider for each of the three colors, so they are easy to set - 
255/0/0  then 0/255/0 then 0/0/255.

Suggestions:
 
Draw your grid on the white side of a piece of thick poster board.
 
Tape a piece of transparent drafting velum or a less expensive substitute:
Bienfang Designer Grid Paper, 50 Sheets, 8-1/2-Inch by 11-Inch Pad, 8 by 8 Cross Section
( $7.00 at Amazon )  The lines are straight and the grid perpendicular, but the grid is not precise.
 
The center line, keel line and base line transferred ,  but you can leave off the waterlines and buttock lines for each frame - just the frame points are needed.
 
Only plot one side of the frame. 
Scan the half frame into your computer.
Have a transparent metric ruler in the scan.
Open the scan in a drawing program - Photo Shop - ( has a rental online deal - if you are quick, you only need a 1 month rental) / Paint Shop Pro / I use Painter 12 - older versions like Painter 8 work just as well - I just needed 12 to get PNG in/out.
The program needs layers. 
Open the half frame as a layer, duplicate it, flip copy horizontally and position the baseline/ centerline and combine the two layers. You now have a precise mirror of the half frame.
 
Kate Cory would probably be framed French/American style -  paired frames with the space between +/- half the thickness of one of the pair.   I round - I am working on USS Vincennes 1825  R/S is 26"  Given the range of sided dimensions of the frames I chose to make each frame 10" and the space 6".
 
The point ?  You can use the middle frame shape layer for both outlines of the pair.
 
The metric ruler part - scan in - print out - can be altered by the computer-  Matching up the print out of the ruler with the ruler- the % change in document size needed to be done in the drawing program  to get identity in size is easier to calculate using metric an English scale.
 
Another advantage - colored lines are easier to follow when cutting out and shaping the frames.  With a paint program, it is easy to magic wand a line and change its color.
I make the dead flat centerline shape = red - next one = green, the next one = blue, the next = red....
The paint program color picker has a slider for each of the three colors, so they are easy to set - 
255/0/0  then 0/255/0 then 0/0/255.

Suggestions:
 
Draw your grid on the white side of a piece of thick poster board.
 
Tape a piece of transparent drafting velum or a less expensive substitute:
Bienfang Designer Grid Paper, 50 Sheets, 8-1/2-Inch by 11-Inch Pad, 8 by 8 Cross Section
( $7.00 at Amazon )  The lines are straight and the grid perpendicular, but the grid is not precise.
 
The center line, keel line and base line transferred ,  but you can leave off the waterlines and buttock lines for each frame - just the frame points are needed.
 
Only plot one side of the frame. 
Scan the half frame into your computer.
Have a transparent metric ruler in the scan.
Open the scan in a drawing program - Photo Shop - ( has a rental online deal - if you are quick, you only need a 1 month rental) / Paint Shop Pro / I use Painter 12 - older versions like Painter 8 work just as well - I just needed 12 to get PNG in/out.
The program needs layers. 
Open the half frame as a layer, duplicate it, flip copy horizontally and position the baseline/ centerline and combine the two layers. You now have a precise mirror of the half frame.
 
Kate Cory would probably be framed French/American style -  paired frames with the space between +/- half the thickness of one of the pair.   I round - I am working on USS Vincennes 1825  R/S is 26"  Given the range of sided dimensions of the frames I chose to make each frame 10" and the space 6".
 
The point ?  You can use the middle frame shape layer for both outlines of the pair.
 
The metric ruler part - scan in - print out - can be altered by the computer-  Matching up the print out of the ruler with the ruler- the % change in document size needed to be done in the drawing program  to get identity in size is easier to calculate using metric an English scale.
 
Another advantage - colored lines are easier to follow when cutting out and shaping the frames.  With a paint program, it is easy to magic wand a line and change its color.
I make the dead flat centerline shape = red - next one = green, the next one = blue, the next = red....
The paint program color picker has a slider for each of the three colors, so they are easy to set - 
255/0/0  then 0/255/0 then 0/0/255.

Suggestions:
 
Draw your grid on the white side of a piece of thick poster board.
 
Tape a piece of transparent drafting velum or a less expensive substitute:
Bienfang Designer Grid Paper, 50 Sheets, 8-1/2-Inch by 11-Inch Pad, 8 by 8 Cross Section
( $7.00 at Amazon )  The lines are straight and the grid perpendicular, but the grid is not precise.
 
The center line, keel line and base line transferred ,  but you can leave off the waterlines and buttock lines for each frame - just the frame points are needed.
 
Only plot one side of the frame. 
Scan the half frame into your computer.
Have a transparent metric ruler in the scan.
Open the scan in a drawing program - Photo Shop - ( has a rental online deal - if you are quick, you only need a 1 month rental) / Paint Shop Pro / I use Painter 12 - older versions like Painter 8 work just as well - I just needed 12 to get PNG in/out.
The program needs layers. 
Open the half frame as a layer, duplicate it, flip copy horizontally and position the baseline/ centerline and combine the two layers. You now have a precise mirror of the half frame.
 
Kate Cory would probably be framed French/American style -  paired frames with the space between +/- half the thickness of one of the pair.   I round - I am working on USS Vincennes 1825  R/S is 26"  Given the range of sided dimensions of the frames I chose to make each frame 10" and the space 6".
 
The point ?  You can use the middle frame shape layer for both outlines of the pair.
 
The metric ruler part - scan in - print out - can be altered by the computer-  Matching up the print out of the ruler with the ruler- the % change in document size needed to be done in the drawing program  to get identity in size is easier to calculate using metric an English scale.
 
Another advantage - colored lines are easier to follow when cutting out and shaping the frames.  With a paint program, it is easy to magic wand a line and change its color.
I make the dead flat centerline shape = red - next one = green, the next one = blue, the next = red....
The paint program color picker has a slider for each of the three colors, so they are easy to set - 
255/0/0  then 0/255/0 then 0/0/255.

Suggestions:
 
Draw your grid on the white side of a piece of thick poster board.
 
Tape a piece of transparent drafting velum or a less expensive substitute:
Bienfang Designer Grid Paper, 50 Sheets, 8-1/2-Inch by 11-Inch Pad, 8 by 8 Cross Section
( $7.00 at Amazon )  The lines are straight and the grid perpendicular, but the grid is not precise.
 
The center line, keel line and base line transferred ,  but you can leave off the waterlines and buttock lines for each frame - just the frame points are needed.
 
Only plot one side of the frame. 
Scan the half frame into your computer.
Have a transparent metric ruler in the scan.
Open the scan in a drawing program - Photo Shop - ( has a rental online deal - if you are quick, you only need a 1 month rental) / Paint Shop Pro / I use Painter 12 - older versions like Painter 8 work just as well - I just needed 12 to get PNG in/out.
The program needs layers. 
Open the half frame as a layer, duplicate it, flip copy horizontally and position the baseline/ centerline and combine the two layers. You now have a precise mirror of the half frame.
 
Kate Cory would probably be framed French/American style -  paired frames with the space between +/- half the thickness of one of the pair.   I round - I am working on USS Vincennes 1825  R/S is 26"  Given the range of sided dimensions of the frames I chose to make each frame 10" and the space 6".
 
The point ?  You can use the middle frame shape layer for both outlines of the pair.
 
The metric ruler part - scan in - print out - can be altered by the computer-  Matching up the print out of the ruler with the ruler- the % change in document size needed to be done in the drawing program  to get identity in size is easier to calculate using metric an English scale.
 
Another advantage - colored lines are easier to follow when cutting out and shaping the frames.  With a paint program, it is easy to magic wand a line and change its color.
I make the dead flat centerline shape = red - next one = green, the next one = blue, the next = red....
The paint program color picker has a slider for each of the three colors, so they are easy to set - 
255/0/0  then 0/255/0 then 0/0/255.

For city dwellers, a possible source of stock lumber = your local tree service companies.  I think the wood is mostly junk to them, something they have to dispose of.  You may be able to get some interesting stock for little or no cost.

Dowels are generally a problem as a source for stock for masts and spars.  It is usually an accident for the grain to be straight.  When cut free, they will seek an equilibrium point over time and that can be a curved state.
 
A way to avoid this is to start with plank stock of a straight grained / closed pore species of wood and split the spar stock out along the natural grain.  The hope is that this will be the equilibrium position as Time and Environment act on the piece of wood.
 
The tool designed to do this is a froe.  A full sized froe is used to produce things like Cedar shakes.  There is a smaller version that I have been looking at, but do not own yet:
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/156564/Bamboo-Froe-%28Take-Wari%29---Ikeuti.aspx
 
In most locations  a species of Acer (Maple) should be available locally from hardwood dealers.
White Pine (Sugar / Pattern makers)
Yellow Poplar
Beech or Birch

Dowels are generally a problem as a source for stock for masts and spars.  It is usually an accident for the grain to be straight.  When cut free, they will seek an equilibrium point over time and that can be a curved state.
 
A way to avoid this is to start with plank stock of a straight grained / closed pore species of wood and split the spar stock out along the natural grain.  The hope is that this will be the equilibrium position as Time and Environment act on the piece of wood.
 
The tool designed to do this is a froe.  A full sized froe is used to produce things like Cedar shakes.  There is a smaller version that I have been looking at, but do not own yet:
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/156564/Bamboo-Froe-%28Take-Wari%29---Ikeuti.aspx
 
In most locations  a species of Acer (Maple) should be available locally from hardwood dealers.
White Pine (Sugar / Pattern makers)
Yellow Poplar
Beech or Birch

Dowels are generally a problem as a source for stock for masts and spars.  It is usually an accident for the grain to be straight.  When cut free, they will seek an equilibrium point over time and that can be a curved state.
 
A way to avoid this is to start with plank stock of a straight grained / closed pore species of wood and split the spar stock out along the natural grain.  The hope is that this will be the equilibrium position as Time and Environment act on the piece of wood.
 
The tool designed to do this is a froe.  A full sized froe is used to produce things like Cedar shakes.  There is a smaller version that I have been looking at, but do not own yet:
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/156564/Bamboo-Froe-%28Take-Wari%29---Ikeuti.aspx
 
In most locations  a species of Acer (Maple) should be available locally from hardwood dealers.
White Pine (Sugar / Pattern makers)
Yellow Poplar
Beech or Birch

Dowels are generally a problem as a source for stock for masts and spars.  It is usually an accident for the grain to be straight.  When cut free, they will seek an equilibrium point over time and that can be a curved state.
 
A way to avoid this is to start with plank stock of a straight grained / closed pore species of wood and split the spar stock out along the natural grain.  The hope is that this will be the equilibrium position as Time and Environment act on the piece of wood.
 
The tool designed to do this is a froe.  A full sized froe is used to produce things like Cedar shakes.  There is a smaller version that I have been looking at, but do not own yet:
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/156564/Bamboo-Froe-%28Take-Wari%29---Ikeuti.aspx
 
In most locations  a species of Acer (Maple) should be available locally from hardwood dealers.
White Pine (Sugar / Pattern makers)
Yellow Poplar
Beech or Birch

If this is one of the versions of a 9 inch bench top bandsaw (59 1/2 inch blade length) there is a very useful addition to help it in cutting tight curves ( 1/8  inch blade ).   The Carter products Blade Stablizer is fairly expensive, but is worth the cost.  I bought a 9 inch bandsaw from MicroMark when it was on sale - they no longer vend it.  The mount did not match any Carter model, but it does use a rod and fortunately, a larger rod, so I could use K&S telescoping brass tubing as bushings for an exact fit.
http://www.carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/band-saw-stabilizer/standard-model-2-std2

If you are considering doing serious resawing, you really need a bandsaw with enough power to handle the wood.
The Grizzly G0555X - 14" Extreme Series Bandsaw is the sort of saw that you should be looking at - especially if you are using 110 V.
This model is 110V  and 1 1/2 HP.   A less powerful motor takes forever.
 
A 9" or 10" table top bandsaw is not the best tool for resawing.  Good for scroll cutting and light duty cuts.
 
Holly is a special case as far as wood goes.  It should be cut in Winter,  immediately cut into billets and put in a kiln to dry.
It is subject to attack by a species of mold (Blue mold) that is very aggressive.  You should check the wood before you pay for it.  If it is green (fresh cut wet), you may not get much that you can use. 
 
Getting into scratch building,  you might consider using less expensive domestic species to develop your skills.  Since you have not the tools needed to harvest your own wood "on the hoof"  you might look at available species that have characteristics that we want.
 
Hard Maple is excellent.  
Black Cherry if you want darker.
American Beech is a lot like Maple
Yellow Birch
 
If you do not mind wood that is less dense (softer) - cuts easier and faster
Yellow Poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera ) 
Tupelo  (Nyssa aquatica)
Basswood  (Tilia americana)
 
The open pore distinct grain species do not look good to my eye when they supposed to represent wood at 1:48 - 1:98 scale.
Oak
Black Walnut

If you are considering doing serious resawing, you really need a bandsaw with enough power to handle the wood.
The Grizzly G0555X - 14" Extreme Series Bandsaw is the sort of saw that you should be looking at - especially if you are using 110 V.
This model is 110V  and 1 1/2 HP.   A less powerful motor takes forever.
 
A 9" or 10" table top bandsaw is not the best tool for resawing.  Good for scroll cutting and light duty cuts.
 
Holly is a special case as far as wood goes.  It should be cut in Winter,  immediately cut into billets and put in a kiln to dry.
It is subject to attack by a species of mold (Blue mold) that is very aggressive.  You should check the wood before you pay for it.  If it is green (fresh cut wet), you may not get much that you can use. 
 
Getting into scratch building,  you might consider using less expensive domestic species to develop your skills.  Since you have not the tools needed to harvest your own wood "on the hoof"  you might look at available species that have characteristics that we want.
 
Hard Maple is excellent.  
Black Cherry if you want darker.
American Beech is a lot like Maple
Yellow Birch
 
If you do not mind wood that is less dense (softer) - cuts easier and faster
Yellow Poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera ) 
Tupelo  (Nyssa aquatica)
Basswood  (Tilia americana)
 
The open pore distinct grain species do not look good to my eye when they supposed to represent wood at 1:48 - 1:98 scale.
Oak
Black Walnut

If you are considering doing serious resawing, you really need a bandsaw with enough power to handle the wood.
The Grizzly G0555X - 14" Extreme Series Bandsaw is the sort of saw that you should be looking at - especially if you are using 110 V.
This model is 110V  and 1 1/2 HP.   A less powerful motor takes forever.
 
A 9" or 10" table top bandsaw is not the best tool for resawing.  Good for scroll cutting and light duty cuts.
 
Holly is a special case as far as wood goes.  It should be cut in Winter,  immediately cut into billets and put in a kiln to dry.
It is subject to attack by a species of mold (Blue mold) that is very aggressive.  You should check the wood before you pay for it.  If it is green (fresh cut wet), you may not get much that you can use. 
 
Getting into scratch building,  you might consider using less expensive domestic species to develop your skills.  Since you have not the tools needed to harvest your own wood "on the hoof"  you might look at available species that have characteristics that we want.
 
Hard Maple is excellent.  
Black Cherry if you want darker.
American Beech is a lot like Maple
Yellow Birch
 
If you do not mind wood that is less dense (softer) - cuts easier and faster
Yellow Poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera ) 
Tupelo  (Nyssa aquatica)
Basswood  (Tilia americana)
 
The open pore distinct grain species do not look good to my eye when they supposed to represent wood at 1:48 - 1:98 scale.
Oak
Black Walnut

You do not indicate where you are.   It is usually less expensive to source local wood.
 
 
Ayous    is better known as Obeche ?
It seems to have a grain that is not distinctive - which is good - it looks to be open pore which is not desirable.
It is soft - not my preference - too easy to remove too much - but soft woods - Lime/Basswood,  Yellow Poplar, Tupelo, Sugar Pine are popular and they have closed pore
 
Sapelly    hard, darker brown   Pear, Black Cherry
 
Anatolia    a search returns strange results -  no particular tree -  just a flooring style from the region where Turkey is.
 
Mass market kit manufactures seem to base their choice of wood more on price than what is the better choice of species to use.  Why not drop back 10 yards and punt on letting Constructo choose your wood and make your own choice?

You do not indicate where you are.   It is usually less expensive to source local wood.
 
 
Ayous    is better known as Obeche ?
It seems to have a grain that is not distinctive - which is good - it looks to be open pore which is not desirable.
It is soft - not my preference - too easy to remove too much - but soft woods - Lime/Basswood,  Yellow Poplar, Tupelo, Sugar Pine are popular and they have closed pore
 
Sapelly    hard, darker brown   Pear, Black Cherry
 
Anatolia    a search returns strange results -  no particular tree -  just a flooring style from the region where Turkey is.
 
Mass market kit manufactures seem to base their choice of wood more on price than what is the better choice of species to use.  Why not drop back 10 yards and punt on letting Constructo choose your wood and make your own choice?

I stopped updating my database in 1996,  but up to then, here are journal articles relating to your build:
 
HMS SULTANA
MC CALIP,DANA L
MODEL SHIPWRIGHT
1975
11
250-257  


SULTANA OF 1768  
TAKAKJIAN,PORTIA
SHIPS IN SCALE  
1985
11
80-83   
18TH SCHOONER NA MASTING RIGGING


SULTANA - THE SMALLEST SCHOONER BECOMES A FIRST RATE MODEL
MALCOMSON,BOB
MODEL SHIP BUILDER
1991
72
24-29
18TH SCHOONER

SULTANA  A FIRST-TIME, PLANK-ON-FRAME SHIP MODEL  PT.1
FOX,CHARLES S
SEAWAY'S SHIPS IN SCALE  
1994
5/1
58-65
POF TECHNIQUE 18TH NA

5/2
20-25
5/3
8-14

I stopped updating my database in 1996,  but up to then, here are journal articles relating to your build:
 
HMS SULTANA
MC CALIP,DANA L
MODEL SHIPWRIGHT
1975
11
250-257  


SULTANA OF 1768  
TAKAKJIAN,PORTIA
SHIPS IN SCALE  
1985
11
80-83   
18TH SCHOONER NA MASTING RIGGING


SULTANA - THE SMALLEST SCHOONER BECOMES A FIRST RATE MODEL
MALCOMSON,BOB
MODEL SHIP BUILDER
1991
72
24-29
18TH SCHOONER

SULTANA  A FIRST-TIME, PLANK-ON-FRAME SHIP MODEL  PT.1
FOX,CHARLES S
SEAWAY'S SHIPS IN SCALE  
1994
5/1
58-65
POF TECHNIQUE 18TH NA

5/2
20-25
5/3
8-14

If this is not what you already have: Eurotool  DRL 300
http://www.ottofrei.com/Mini-Drill-Press-110V.html
 
I have seen it priced at~ $60  on one site, did not save the link
 
I have used a # 75 drill  with mine   -  
fit the ML X/Y  table  (drilled 4 holes in the cast base) (costs more the the drill press)
A Harbor Freight momentary foot switch is useful.
 
 
You can use a mill as a drill press   ( I you want robust and expensive )
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4660&category=
 
-  but  because of the bearings, I don't think a drill press will tolerate the lateral pressure when used as a mill

If this is not what you already have: Eurotool  DRL 300
http://www.ottofrei.com/Mini-Drill-Press-110V.html
 
I have seen it priced at~ $60  on one site, did not save the link
 
I have used a # 75 drill  with mine   -  
fit the ML X/Y  table  (drilled 4 holes in the cast base) (costs more the the drill press)
A Harbor Freight momentary foot switch is useful.
 
 
You can use a mill as a drill press   ( I you want robust and expensive )
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4660&category=
 
-  but  because of the bearings, I don't think a drill press will tolerate the lateral pressure when used as a mill

OK.  On your 1st jpeg - the keel - at the stern - extend the inner line of the sternpost to the lowest horizontal line. This will be the aft end of the keel "touch".  At the bow, the fore part of the "touch" is where the stem line starts to curve up.  Measure this distance.  Using the scale of the plans  (1:76, 1:72, 1:64)  Covert  measured inches to full size feet.  
If the scale is 1:76, then  127 feet should be = 1.67 feet or 20 1/16 inches.   If the measured touch is 20 inches then the plans are correct.  If it is closer to 16 inches, then  the plans were drawn incorrectly.  At the place on the keel where the center mold is placed - add the extra length.  If you measure 16 inches and it should be 20 1/16 add 4 1/16 more to the keel here. 
Adding more molds is not a bad thing.  If you had twice as many or more, you could get by with just a single layer of planking. The planks would need to be twice as thick.  The hard part is that you would have to draft the outlines of the intermediate molds.  When you do this, you are doing the most difficult and most tedious part of POF construction.

Lets' say you have a hull planked except for one last plank in the bow area so that the plane of the frame surface bends toward the stem.  The line of the planking  strake bends up with the sheer.
 
Take a 3 x 5 card and place it over the hole to be planked.  Rub a pencil over the edges of the surrounding planks to get the shape on the card.   Cutting the shape of the plank from the larger card is  spilling ( spoiling the rest of a good board as waste).  You now have the plank shape.  To get it to lay flat against the surface of the frames and not want to spring back up, this is what steaming is for.

Just use old paint to coat the ends- ASAP -  several coats  - if nothing else  use TiteBond  or whatever PVA glue you use,  but left over paint is usually something that goes to waste otherwise.  
 
I don't know about you, but I find 16-18 inches is a good length for my stock, longer is difficult to handle  -  I will  use 6 inch if that is what is available.  That is 24 feet long at 1:48. 
 
If it is what it takes to get it band saw size,  I would bisect the logs using a chain saw - down the pith - a bow saw and hand rip saw if that is all you have.  The kerf is horrible, but still better than nothing.  
 
For the band saw, you will not have one flat surface, either for the table or the fence.
Use a board to ride on the table and against the fence - 1/2 inch thick or so  2-4 inches longer than the log.
I used right angle framing braces/brackets  and drywall screws  to fix the log to the carrier board - keeps the log from rolling and lets you define the cut line.   Once you get two planes at right angle on the log - you don't need the carrier.
 
Use the band saw to shave off the bark from the billets.
You can use a draw knife to shave off the bark, it is just a chore to fix the log to keep it from moving.
 
RE: your friend with the band saw.  Find out how long  his blades are and buy about 3 economy rip tooth blades for it from a local shop.  Green wood is tough on blades and if Peach is like other fruit wood, much harder than what most wood workers are used to.  It will dull the blade faster than usual wood stock.  I would expect at least one blade to break.

The top of the large log - looks like there are two branches .  I would cross cut that log about 1/3 down and have mostly a straight cylinder for the bottom 2/3 s.  
The top 1/3 - the side towards the camera - will be a short 1/2 log that is what 6- 12 inches or so?  very usable.  
The branch side.   Creative cutting with the band saw - you may get some curved grain that is useful for 2nd and 3rd futtocks, davits, knees, foothooks.   The curve will not be 1:50 - 1:100 scale, but still help in avoiding cross grain.
The way the log is now, is not even good for a splitting.
 
You are going to have to break these logs into smaller pieces at some point.  Doing it now gets it into sizes that will dry faster and with less tendency to split.   
 
If nothing else,  get a few more logs from the orchard, take them to a place that sells firewood and see if they will use their power splitter and 1/4 the logs.   That should get them band saw ready.  Who knows, the firewood dealer might have something interesting you can salvage in his stock.
 
The split planes are likely to be curved and twisted.  You will definitely need the carrier board for the band saw. 
 
You are new at this, my tendency would be to focus on the loss from the splitting and chain saw kerf,  Better to focus on what you are getting instead.  In the end, once you get hard dry lumber,  resawed, thickness sanded,  sawed into various pieces,  at best, 50% of this wood will go to saw dust anyway.

Just use old paint to coat the ends- ASAP -  several coats  - if nothing else  use TiteBond  or whatever PVA glue you use,  but left over paint is usually something that goes to waste otherwise.  
 
I don't know about you, but I find 16-18 inches is a good length for my stock, longer is difficult to handle  -  I will  use 6 inch if that is what is available.  That is 24 feet long at 1:48. 
 
If it is what it takes to get it band saw size,  I would bisect the logs using a chain saw - down the pith - a bow saw and hand rip saw if that is all you have.  The kerf is horrible, but still better than nothing.  
 
For the band saw, you will not have one flat surface, either for the table or the fence.
Use a board to ride on the table and against the fence - 1/2 inch thick or so  2-4 inches longer than the log.
I used right angle framing braces/brackets  and drywall screws  to fix the log to the carrier board - keeps the log from rolling and lets you define the cut line.   Once you get two planes at right angle on the log - you don't need the carrier.
 
Use the band saw to shave off the bark from the billets.
You can use a draw knife to shave off the bark, it is just a chore to fix the log to keep it from moving.
 
RE: your friend with the band saw.  Find out how long  his blades are and buy about 3 economy rip tooth blades for it from a local shop.  Green wood is tough on blades and if Peach is like other fruit wood, much harder than what most wood workers are used to.  It will dull the blade faster than usual wood stock.  I would expect at least one blade to break.