Jaager

This vessel was 1872.   Drake's first well was ~1860.  So it is entirely possible that petrol based tar was in use, so actual black for standing rigging may be appropriate.  The running rigging -a dark straw - likely hemp.  This was a privately owned two master, so I doubt that steel was even considered.
But as Gregory says:  you can do much better for the line that you rig with.

What happens if you use a dimmer switch or router speed control with the AL unit?

Vinod,
 
If you are just dipping your toe into all of this, then paying for expensive imports may be the way your have to go.
 
If this is a long term prospect.  If you are considering scratch POF and working at the higher range of scale =>1:72, then becoming self sufficient may be the more economically practical option.
The initial investment in tools is a bit daunting,  but the savings over time will fairly quickly get you into the black.
If you do this, then perhaps YOU could become the supplier in India.
 
Tools:
A quality and powerful 14" band saw - with bimetal or carbide blades - the all steel dull and break too quickly and the low cost ones have too much set and really chew up the face of the cut.
A thickness sander - you can make your own from a 1/3-1/2 HP motor, but a Byrnes is the gold  standard.
Something with an edger function if you sell to others.
And for turning resawn and sanded stock into strips and miniature timber
A Byrnes table saw.   unfortunately for those outside the US, there is really no real substitute.
 
As for wood -  I am highly biased toward using species that are domestic for you. 
In light of this, in your place, I would seriously  investigate the following species:
Ailanthus altissima - Ailanthus, tree of heaven, Chinese sumac   if it is as open pore as is suggested - its use would be where it is hidden, or sealed and painted.
Alstonia scholaris  - Indian pulai, white cheesewood, milky pine, blackboard tree
Aglaia cucullata  - Pacific maple, aglaia, bekak, amoora, tasua
Acer pseudoplatanus  -  Sycamore maple, European sycamore
and maybe the star that we wish we could get:
Chloroxylon swietenia  -  East Indian Satinwood, Ceylon Satinwood
 

The Lady of Shallot
 
Wasn't this pretty much Dark Ages or Medieval?   As I see it, even the Saxon Sutton Ho boat was Scandinavian clinker.  They were pretty much it in northern Europe for a long span of centuries.
A kit of a Viking craft (even a smaller scale longboat) may pass as a larger scale wherry with adjustments to the stem and stern.  If you lose the bow dragon and lower the sheer it  should be close enough for government work.

Vinod,
 
If you are just dipping your toe into all of this, then paying for expensive imports may be the way your have to go.
 
If this is a long term prospect.  If you are considering scratch POF and working at the higher range of scale =>1:72, then becoming self sufficient may be the more economically practical option.
The initial investment in tools is a bit daunting,  but the savings over time will fairly quickly get you into the black.
If you do this, then perhaps YOU could become the supplier in India.
 
Tools:
A quality and powerful 14" band saw - with bimetal or carbide blades - the all steel dull and break too quickly and the low cost ones have too much set and really chew up the face of the cut.
A thickness sander - you can make your own from a 1/3-1/2 HP motor, but a Byrnes is the gold  standard.
Something with an edger function if you sell to others.
And for turning resawn and sanded stock into strips and miniature timber
A Byrnes table saw.   unfortunately for those outside the US, there is really no real substitute.
 
As for wood -  I am highly biased toward using species that are domestic for you. 
In light of this, in your place, I would seriously  investigate the following species:
Ailanthus altissima - Ailanthus, tree of heaven, Chinese sumac   if it is as open pore as is suggested - its use would be where it is hidden, or sealed and painted.
Alstonia scholaris  - Indian pulai, white cheesewood, milky pine, blackboard tree
Aglaia cucullata  - Pacific maple, aglaia, bekak, amoora, tasua
Acer pseudoplatanus  -  Sycamore maple, European sycamore
and maybe the star that we wish we could get:
Chloroxylon swietenia  -  East Indian Satinwood, Ceylon Satinwood
 

@*Hans*  " a convex, pear-shaped hull with a strongly concave top and narrow decks – can plausibly be assumed to be the result of a succession of small developments that started at the end of the 16th century."
I read along time ago - no reference- sorry -  that the reason that Dutch vessels tended to have very narrow upper decks was because of how the taxes and customs duties were calculated.  The formula obviously used the breadth of the top deck to determine the cargo volume.  It would have been easy to use a more realistic formula, once the trick was obvious,  but I am guessing that the shipping interests must have gained control of at least that part of the government.  They must have become the ones with the money and thus the power.
 
I have developed an historical narrative about ship model kits that goes as follows:
The kits from the 1930's and 1940's were primitive - mostly a solid block or slightly carved one, some sticks, string and lead castings.  Then  after WWII   a lot of pattern following lathes became available as surplus when millions of M1 rifle stocks were no longer needed.  MS, BlueJacket, and I think another New England company that I think BlueJacket bought started providing more carefully carved hulls and better materials and using real plans for a new generation of kits.   Meanwhile, in Europe, I think first in Italy - around 1960 Aeropicola (sp) and Constructo (sp) and maybe others - not having access to cheap pattern chasing lathes , evolved a hull construction method for ships  based on how boats have been built for a long time - planking over molds.  Except that with boats, the molds are not a part of the final hull.  With boats the molds are at close enough intervals that the physics of the wood fibers do not allow for hollows. 
Based on what I see in Lusci (1970) and Conte (3rd ed n.d.) these early kits used plans of questionable accuracy and subjects likely to be popular even if their actual plans were a fantasy.   The molds were spaced at ridiculously wide intervals.  Two layers of planking was required to avoid a serpentine hull conformation.  The swimming body seems to have been given as little attention as possible.  A follow-on company - Mamoli - seems to have used the same hull shape for at least three vessels - Bounty - Endeavour - Beagle.  With so few molds, I am wondering if thin plywood was expensive in Italy at the time.
 
I find it bemusing and a bit ironic that features that were cheap short cuts of guys just trying to make a living (POB to begin with) and double planking for it - because it was cheaper than having enough molds to support a proper hull have flipped and are seen as some sort of standard.
 

I was thinking that also acting as an overseas distributor might help, but about the only other publisher in English is Sea Forth.  A long paging thru NIP shows that they still are a US agent for them - slight as their output is now.  It sort of only leaves ANCRE as a possible partner. 
Anyway, it is a great service that you have taken on - keeping the SeaWatch titles available. 
Now, if only NMM would find someone better than DHL to get their plans across the Atlantic.

I do not know.  I think they were for defecation - so with glass there would be protection from the wind - a welcome thing is some seasons - without glass there would be ventilation.  Maybe there was a solid cover on a hinge or hook to allow either option.   I do not see that the diet was sufficient in fiber, so perhaps the job done there required a bit of study?😉

I do not know.  I think they were for defecation - so with glass there would be protection from the wind - a welcome thing is some seasons - without glass there would be ventilation.  Maybe there was a solid cover on a hinge or hook to allow either option.   I do not see that the diet was sufficient in fiber, so perhaps the job done there required a bit of study?😉

Siggi,
 
I am going to face a similar construction - if I can re-gain the motivation.  You have the top inner support as a molded half circle. 
Once the whole is assembled, is there any reason  not to use a solid half circle instead?   I know that the original vessel would have been as you built it, but if it is hidden  no one would know but the builder.

I do not know.  I think they were for defecation - so with glass there would be protection from the wind - a welcome thing is some seasons - without glass there would be ventilation.  Maybe there was a solid cover on a hinge or hook to allow either option.   I do not see that the diet was sufficient in fiber, so perhaps the job done there required a bit of study?😉

I did not do a survey of my references, but I checked HASN  ( History of the American Sailing Navy - H.I. Chapelle ).
There are several examples of small schooner - brigantine sized vessels with a swivel cannon - centerline and midship. 
For a revenue enforcement,  19th century pirate suppression, and interfering with slave smuggling as a job description for a vessel, that would be sufficient fire power. Not enough weight to be a danger in a blow and also allow for a shallow draft.  
One of those may give you an overall look inspiration.  The up close details - I am drawing a blank on details in a single source.
There may be details that could be adapted from AOTS HMS Beagle for some basics -  but Beagle was English, a tad later, larger, and more sophisticated.
 
Constructo  may have even used an HIC plan as a starting point for their rif.  You could look at HASN as a catalog for ideas to individualize your build back to something on display there.

I was thinking that also acting as an overseas distributor might help, but about the only other publisher in English is Sea Forth.  A long paging thru NIP shows that they still are a US agent for them - slight as their output is now.  It sort of only leaves ANCRE as a possible partner. 
Anyway, it is a great service that you have taken on - keeping the SeaWatch titles available. 
Now, if only NMM would find someone better than DHL to get their plans across the Atlantic.

I was thinking that also acting as an overseas distributor might help, but about the only other publisher in English is Sea Forth.  A long paging thru NIP shows that they still are a US agent for them - slight as their output is now.  It sort of only leaves ANCRE as a possible partner. 
Anyway, it is a great service that you have taken on - keeping the SeaWatch titles available. 
Now, if only NMM would find someone better than DHL to get their plans across the Atlantic.

I was thinking that also acting as an overseas distributor might help, but about the only other publisher in English is Sea Forth.  A long paging thru NIP shows that they still are a US agent for them - slight as their output is now.  It sort of only leaves ANCRE as a possible partner. 
Anyway, it is a great service that you have taken on - keeping the SeaWatch titles available. 
Now, if only NMM would find someone better than DHL to get their plans across the Atlantic.

I was thinking that also acting as an overseas distributor might help, but about the only other publisher in English is Sea Forth.  A long paging thru NIP shows that they still are a US agent for them - slight as their output is now.  It sort of only leaves ANCRE as a possible partner. 
Anyway, it is a great service that you have taken on - keeping the SeaWatch titles available. 
Now, if only NMM would find someone better than DHL to get their plans across the Atlantic.

I was thinking that also acting as an overseas distributor might help, but about the only other publisher in English is Sea Forth.  A long paging thru NIP shows that they still are a US agent for them - slight as their output is now.  It sort of only leaves ANCRE as a possible partner. 
Anyway, it is a great service that you have taken on - keeping the SeaWatch titles available. 
Now, if only NMM would find someone better than DHL to get their plans across the Atlantic.

I was thinking that also acting as an overseas distributor might help, but about the only other publisher in English is Sea Forth.  A long paging thru NIP shows that they still are a US agent for them - slight as their output is now.  It sort of only leaves ANCRE as a possible partner. 
Anyway, it is a great service that you have taken on - keeping the SeaWatch titles available. 
Now, if only NMM would find someone better than DHL to get their plans across the Atlantic.

I was thinking that also acting as an overseas distributor might help, but about the only other publisher in English is Sea Forth.  A long paging thru NIP shows that they still are a US agent for them - slight as their output is now.  It sort of only leaves ANCRE as a possible partner. 
Anyway, it is a great service that you have taken on - keeping the SeaWatch titles available. 
Now, if only NMM would find someone better than DHL to get their plans across the Atlantic.

I was thinking that also acting as an overseas distributor might help, but about the only other publisher in English is Sea Forth.  A long paging thru NIP shows that they still are a US agent for them - slight as their output is now.  It sort of only leaves ANCRE as a possible partner. 
Anyway, it is a great service that you have taken on - keeping the SeaWatch titles available. 
Now, if only NMM would find someone better than DHL to get their plans across the Atlantic.

I was thinking that also acting as an overseas distributor might help, but about the only other publisher in English is Sea Forth.  A long paging thru NIP shows that they still are a US agent for them - slight as their output is now.  It sort of only leaves ANCRE as a possible partner. 
Anyway, it is a great service that you have taken on - keeping the SeaWatch titles available. 
Now, if only NMM would find someone better than DHL to get their plans across the Atlantic.

An older way
Use a screw plate or sharp angle needle file to cut spiral grooves into the long arm
rotate it in using 2 part epoxy as the chemical  bonding agent.   - I think now there are clear versions of epoxy.
It should be thick and viscous enough to stick after the long arm is dripped.
A pin can be used to poke some epoxy into the hole.
the hole should be a tad smaller than the diameter of the long arm before it is cut for mechanical grab as well as chemical.
Do not leave any wet epoxy on an open surface. when set it is difficult to remove.
It does not soak in and effect subsequent clear finishes like CA does. 
You might wish to place a small piece of masking tape- the old crepe paper type as surgical drape.  Epoxy is sneaky about spreading.

Using an aniline wood DYE does not affect a PA bond since the surface is unchanged.
A wood STAIN is a surface coat that blocks the teeth of a wood surface.  PVA has nothing to intercalate its polymer chains with = no effective bond.
Agents using surface bonding will bond with a stain layer. Then the bond strength is probably most likely dependent on the strength of the paint to wood bond.  We 'know' that paint "never" flakes off?

I checked the Minwax web site to see if your product was also a dye  and they are fairly explicit in stating that their pre-stain step is important.  They also write to "Test  Test  Test".
Because of the uneven result and it being more extreme where glue was used - this points to this product being a combination of a stain and a dye.
In your situation sort of the worst of both worlds.
A dye is a solution of pigment molecules in water or alcohol. When done, it lives inside the wood and not on the surface.
Back to the beginning, the planks could have been dye treated before they were assembled on the model.  They would have bonded using PVA as if they were bare wood.  If you had done this and if the result was satisfactory - you would be golden.
As Roger wrote, a stain is a type of paint.  It is a suspension of dye particles and when complete = a surface critter.  Not compatible with PVA bonding - because the pores and surface irregularities it needs for attachment are sealed over by the paint.  If the product that you used was strictly a stain - it would probably not be any more uneven than if you had used a paint.  Most paints work better if the surface is first given a primer coat of half strength shellac.  Your hull would probably be OK if you had done this instead of the Minwax primer.
The verb: to stain  describes what both a dye and a translucent paint does.  The noun: stain should refer to to the translucent paint only,  But it obviously does not.  Popular use confuses them and it appears that commercial products also do this.
 
To keep the work reasonable, you can probably treat the inside with shellac that is diluted 1:1 with shellac thinner (ethanol).  Scotch Brite it a bit - carefully so as not to round the wood edges - and either paint it or give it coat of full strength shellac and then paint it.
 
If you are wed to a raw wood look inside, the kit is economical enough that you can buy another one and be more careful with it. 

Theoretical question:
If a charcoal pencil - a sorta soft (HB or so) - was used for the line - used over a paint layer - would a spit wet Kleenex rub the mark off before the area was painted over?