RossR

With a new shipyard, I decided to start a new model even though I am not done with my Frigate Diana. I will get back to the Diana soon, but I am getting started on my Santisima Trinidad. I feel like I am making some quick progress which is nice after feeling like the Diana was moving slow even before our move stopped work completely The Cross Section model is started on a building board that is not part of the final model. the "legs" of the frames are clued to the building board, but tab on the keel is only placed into the slot on the building board but not glued. the legs of the frames will be cut off when the interior planking is complete before the outer planking is added. The Occre instructions say to use the laser cut plywood piece for the upper deck as a guide to ensure that the frames are lined up properly when gluing the frames to the building board and the keel. Due to the loose fit of the parts I was very concerned that the frames would lean to one side. I decided to use my trusty Lego blocks and some clamps to make sure the two outside frames were square to the building board and to the keel, then I would use the laser cut plywood to ensure the the middle frame was properly spaced. After a lot of trial an error on some dry runs I settled on this for the two outside frames. The black clamps are holding the Lego blocks that are keeping everything square and the green ones are securing the frames to the keel. I used PVA for this due to the amount of time it took to get everything in place and that everything was clamped. My general rule of thumb is to use PVA when I can clamp effectively and CA if I need to hold it with my fingers. The middle frame was a little different. I used some string to keep the left and right frame snug in the keel slot and the green clamps to provide the downward pressure. I stained the outside of the the two outside frames since these will be visible on the finished model. I used a dark walnut stain. I actually mistakenly stained the inside of at least two of the frames also. I used the upper deck laser cut ply wood to ensure the middle frame was square.

My shipyard is finally complete. I posted some pictures in the Shore Leave topic "So Where Do You Do Yours Then (Model Making That Is)". Next step on my current build involves blackening some brass parts, and my bottle of Birchwood Casey didn't make the move because the cap didn't want to stay on tight. Now that I have space I might get started on my next model until I get the replacement Brass Black.

Your windlass looks fantastic. The mortises turned out great.

Your half hull looks fantastic. You should be very proud.

I think your concern about damaging the blackened finish is justified. Sorry, I don't have a good solution to recommend. Is there any other way to attache your dead eyes to the wire that require less bending after the wire is blackened?

We have been in the new house for a couple weeks. I haven't unpacked my HMS Beagle (complete) or the Frigate Diana (in progress), but I think they survived the move with little or no damage. I think I lost a few rope coils on the Beagle, but those can be replaced easily. The move was only about 15 miles and I drove them myself after carefully constructing the correct size box and creating a soft bed for them to sit in. Now the part that is more fun. Instead of re-purposing a bedroom upstairs we decided to put a wall in an oversized basement family room to create a new shipyard. The room will be about 9 x 13. It will accommodate the two workbenches I had before plus I am going to add a tool chest that will house supplies and tools. There will be enough room left over for a comfy chair for times that I just want to sit and watch a soccer game on the TV. The wall is framed and partially sheet rocked. Waiting on an electrician to move some lights and install the outlets in the new wall. It will have a vinyl planked floor, so no more losing small pieces in the carpet. It will be a few more weeks before I am back to the build, but the end is in sight.

Glad to have you on the forum. There are many first time builds from Occre on the site, especially HMS Beagles.

Your work is fantastic. The job boom net is on another level. Makes me rethink what is possible. Thanks for sharing your build.

If you are a member of the NRG, there is a virtual session on Saturday on making sails with silkspan. They will probably have info on where to get it.

Thanks so much for providing so much detail on your process. This really makes the process clear.

If you are building the Occre HMS Beagle follow the order in the instructions. I think they have it broken down to about twelve steps.

I use this magnifying light Menard's. It comes with a 3x and 5x glass. It isn't supper easy to change the lense, but I find for me the 3x is enough. The light has 3 brightness settings and can be changed from a warm to a cool color light. https://www.menards.com/main/lighting-ceiling-fans/indoor-lighting/lamps/desk-lamps/patriot-lighting-reg-apollo-integrated-led-magnifier-desk-lamp/tt0034/p-1539153039752-c-1531402259058.htm?exp=false

Life is getting the way. Progress on the ship has stalled. My wife and I are moving in early July and have some projects at the current house that are needed and we need to get packed. After the move it will take me a little time to get the new shipyard put together. I will post some picks of the work on the new shipyard when I get started. Hopefully I am back to the ship sometime in August.

I thinks most people use diluted PVA glue or diluted varnish. I have tried both and prefer diluted varnish. I found the diluted PVA doesn’t soak in as well.

Great model. Looking forward to seeing what’s next from you.

I am going to give a different perspective on the cost. I have two hobbies. Golf and model ships. I spend $60 on a four hour round of golf ($15 per hour) and I spend $300 - $400 for a ship kit that I spend 500 - 1000 hours building (yes I am not very fast). Add $200 for some basic tools and that works out to less than $1 an hour. You certainly don't need power tools to build a kit. I have spent some money on some tool upgrades, but those are nice to have and not need to have items. The money an individual spends on tools can vary greatly, but there is no reason you can't get the basics for a couple hundred dollars. The only power tool I don't think I could get by without is a power drill that I use when tapering a dowel for a mast or yard.

I have the main top yard and the main yard completed. These were similar to the top gallant yard except with the addition of the stuns'l booms. I deviated from the Occre plans a little with the brackets that hold the stuns'l booms. As I have on other components, I used the US Brig Syren instructions for the brackets. I used two pieces brass tubing for the inward bracket and a piece of brass tubing and a piece of brass rod for the outboard bracket. For soldering, I used a paste for the first time. It worked great with just the heat from a lighter. I also added a thimble to the main yard for sling. I this was one of my better splices. It is time consuming to manually serve the splice and it isn't perfect by any means, but I am pretty happy with the results. I also had a pretty good view of the northern lights the other night. I have the four yards for the fore mast left then time to start tackling the sails.

in my opinion using a pencil to simulate the joint creates a joint that is too visible. I like to cut the planks to length and use a pencil on the edge of the planks to create a slightly darkened joint that is far more subtle than drawing on with a pencil. If you choose to add the treenails, at 1/50 scale you can probably make them look good, but again I would stay away from pencil dots. There are some good examples of treenails made out of monofilament line on the forum. If you choose the jog or nibble the planks, I would look at the instructions for the US Brig Syren from Modelshipways. It can be downloaded from their website, but I think you can make a great looking model without if you don't want to tackle that on your first planked ship. If you are worried about cutting the planks straight check out the "worlds smallest mitre box" on the Micro Mark website. Works well with a razor saw. Good luck.

I am fairly new to the hobby, so I can’t speak to longevity. On my first build I use PVA, but I don’t think I needed to. On my second build I didn’t use any glue. The bow sprit, foremast and main mast went in straight and are held there by the shrouds. The mizzen mast wanted to lean a little so I used some wedges to get it straight and then relied on the shrouds to keep it straight.

I have made some progress on the yards. The plans in the kit show the stirrups for the foot ropes being made out of an eyebolt that is wrapped with thread to give the appearance on it being rope. I didn’t care for the look of this. from a limited amount of research, it seams the stirrups were usually nailed to the yard and then wrapped around it three times. Nailing a rope seams to be a strange way to attach a rope to anything, then I saw Archjofo‘s example on his French Corvette. The stirrups were braided first. The nail still seams an odd choice, but I can envision a nailed braided rope holding. unfortunately, I tried and failed at braiding the thin ropes to creat the stirrups. I then tried a regular rope with a spliced loop for the foot rope. I couldn’t seam to get the spliced loop small enough, and it looked out of scale. I ended up using the technique that Chuck used in his Model Shipways US Brig Syren and made the stirrups out of black annealed wire. I started adding the blocks using the technique I described in my bow sprite post less using served rope. This creates a very secure connection, but the block doesn’t always hang naturally. I came across the YouTube video and decided to give it a try. Using this technique allows the blocks to hang more naturally, but I worry they won’t be as secure. That will only be a concern if I accidentally pull on a line too hard by accident. here is the main royal yard with the blocks attached my old way and the main top gallant yard with the blocks attached the new way. the top picture has the blocks attached the old way. I am posting this from the airport, and will be traveling for work this week. I will hopefully get back to the model next week.

Fantastic job. This will look great hanging in your home.

With the standing rigging complete except for the top gallant back stays, I have started making the yards. The yards on this kit are fairly simple. They all have a slight taper from the middle towards the end and then a step down to a diameter roughly half the diameter at the center about 1/4 to 1/2 inch from each end of the yard. I start by cutting a dowel about 1 inch longer than the finished yard, and marking the center, the point that the diameter steps down and then each end of the yard. I leave the extra inch of material on one end to put in the chuck of my drill for the tapering. Since the taper from the middle is very slight 1mm - 0.5 mm depending on the starting diameter of the yard, I just use sandpaper to create the taper. After getting the taper right, I use a knife to cut a small slit at the point of the step on the far end of the yard from the end that is in the chuck of the drill and then with a small chisel or knife I cut away material to rough in the smaller diameter after the step. The piece goes back into the drill and I use sandpaper to round the end. I then use the knife and chisel to create the step at the other end leaving the extra material for the drill chuck alone. Then back in the drill and more work with the sandpaper to round the step near the drill chuck. I then cut the extra material off and clean up the ends. I will paint these brown after getting a code of shellac to seal them. I need to make a total of 12 yards. Then attach all of the blocks that will be needed.

I have had a similar experience as Brunnels. No issue with it unwinding. I always cut it with a newer sharp blade. I keep a separate exacto knife for cutting the rope and only use it for that so it stays sharp.

Seeing your progress makes me anxious to get started on my half hull that is sitting on the shelf. Great job.

I now have the top mast backstays added for all three masts. These are .018 rope. I served the section at the top that wraps around the mast. I added the top gallant backstay to the fore mast, but I am a little concerned that it will make accessing the pin rails for the running rigging difficult. For the main and mizzen masts I will plan on waiting to attach the lanyard until after the running rigging is in place. If I need to I can remove the lanyards on the top gallant backstays for the fore mast and re-attach later if it helps adding the running rigging. see below fore my concern on the access to the pin rails.