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chris watton

NRG Member
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About chris watton

  • Birthday 11/21/1966

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  • Website URL
    www.vanguardmodels.co.uk/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Forest of Dean, Gloucester, UK
  • Interests
    Ships and cars.

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  1. I did the same with my prototype model, the one that's on the box art! But it was the fore topgallant I caught and snapped. You can see it slightly bent in all the finished pics - all I could do was apply a drop of glue and keep it in place until set. But it still has a slight tilt...
  2. Thank you! I am fine, I think I just needed a little break, as I haven't really stopped since 2019! I need to take it a little slower this year, I think.. Thank you, I have said before that I personally would prefer the 3-d printed hulled boats over standard if I were buying the kit. I had to make sure they were as accurate as they could be, using original plan lines in most cases. Before, I know many had to settle with what looks roughly correct, but really wasn't, as there were very few choices. I wanted to ensure I have a full range of the most often used boats for my kits, with all the hard to do detail already done - especially for the clinker planked boats. 3-d printing allows me to do this, and at a near scale thickness, too, rather than white metal or cast resin, which always made the boat look way too thick and toy-like. I know some still love the all wooden ones, but I also know there are very many more who prefer the pre made hull versions, and with the 3-d printed hulls, there is no longer any need to compromise on historical accuracy so much.
  3. Do not take any chances this time of year, take care of yourself, Sparkler can wait until warmer weather!
  4. OK, small update: I am hoping to start Surprise development in the next week or so. I have been a little under the weather for around 12 weeks (seem to have had a bug and taking an absolute age to go away completely), so all I have been able to do is continue to produce stock for our kit range (even having the laser machine running throughout Christmas Day)! This has taken all of my time - but am certainly not complaining. I am expecting delivery of my second large laser machine next month, which will help a lot. The website platform will be changed within the next few weeks from WooCommerce to Shopify. The 33 foot Shallop is still ongoing, I have asked for a few more slight changes after trial fitting some of the laser cut pear parts, so am waiting for the updated file for that. What I do have ready now, however, is the Sphinx 3-d printed boat set, consisting of the 22 foot yawl, 24 foot launch and the ubiquitous 28 foot pinnace (Also now in stock as a separate item): HMS Sphinx Boat Set – VANGUARD MODELS Separate 28 foot pinnace: 28′ Pinnace – VANGUARD MODELS
  5. Hi, Chris, I've just realised we are practically neighbours, I'm on 'the other side' of the FOD, on the banks of the Wye. Born in Cinderford.

     

    Stuart

  6. There is this in the manual you have (Page 48): You can apply this method for tying blocks in most instances. It is just a simple knot, but some prefer to go further and simulate a seizing using their preferred methods. If the block is tied directly to a mast or yard, then add the block to the thread first (rather than after if it’s tied to an eyelet, as shown) and then wrap the thread around the mast or yard and secure it with another knot and apply a little glue to secure it before snipping off the excess. If another block is fitted in the same position on the opposite side, then tie a knot as with the single block, and then, as shown in the above images, add the block as shown above.
  7. The futtock staves should keep them apart somewhat - this is why it is strongly recommended that all shrouds are added, including futtock staves, futtock shrouds and topmast shrouds and topmast futtock staves before tying a single ratline.
  8. Just a small update. I have not really been able to find time for the new development over the past few weeks (still), as laser cutting and other production processes have had to take precedent, I forget just how long Indy and Sphinx laser cut parts take to produce. However, I do now have the last of my main 3-d printed boats done, the 28-foot pinnace. This means I shall have a complete 3-d printed boat set for Sphinx in the near future, featuring the pinnace, 24-foot launch and 22-foot yawl. I also now have all the 3-d printed boats I shall need for the Surprise kit. I also have the Surprise stove files. I have two files for the main body, one with the outer railing running along the top edges and one without. Not sure which to use yet. The one with the rail is more of a pain to produce. I have added some pics, but apologies for the quality, these were taken in laser room, and the light is very bright! One of the pics shows the 28- and 32-foot pinnace - these are not simply rescaled from the same file, but designed using their specific lines for their size
  9. It is only paint, just touch it up with a brush, as you need to paint the innder edges of the gun and sweep ports red anyway.
  10. Oh, I don't think I ever showed the harpy box label. My step son, who works in marketing, asked if he could have a go, so most of this is him, a little more minimalistic than normal...
  11. Funny you mention the foot supports/bars, one of my amendments I asked for was to have the laser cut drawings for these, so they fit at each station - failing that, I shall include a length of pear. I shall look into rowers at a later stage, but right now, this commission wasn't cheap and have just spent a load on materials to replenish stock and of course, the Harpy stuff. I am now laser cutting a brand new batch of Indy stuff - this takes some time..
  12. Little update: We now have everything here for the Harpy, plans, manuals and box labels. All pre orders will be sent out within the next few days, so Harpy is now officially released. On Monday I received the 33 foot 'Shallop' or Barge STL file. I have now printed out the first samples, both in 64th (158.5mm long) and 1:48th (over 211mm long), with the latter taking 12 hours to print. I have attached the results of the very first run. On the whole, very nice, but have asked for a couple of minor changes before I start producing them. I may offer this in 48th scale, as I think this would make a nice standalone model in itself, what do you think?
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